Friday 8 November 2002 - Frankfurt to Nuremberg by plane and to Hamburg by train and where the Beatles started it all
8 November 2002
EN Hi everyone. Twenty years ago today, I made a rare return to Europe for the third time in a year. I flew into Frankfurt am Main from Washington Dulles. Then I went to Nuremberg and north to Hamburg. It had been five years since I returned to Hamburg, and I was very happy to be there. Here is my journey from that day.
DE Hallo allerseits. Heute vor 20 Jahren bin ich zum dritten Mal in einem Jahr nach Europa zurückgekehrt. Ich bin von Washington Dulles nach Frankfurt am Main geflogen. Dann ging es nach Nürnberg und in den Norden nach Hamburg. Es war fünf Jahre her, seit ich nach Hamburg zurückgekehrt war, und ich war sehr glücklich, dort zu sein. Hier ist meine Reise von diesem Tag.
DK Hej allesammen. For tyve år siden i dag vendte jeg sjældent tilbage til Europa for tredje gang på et år. Jeg fløj til Frankfurt am Main fra Washington Dulles. Derefter tog jeg til Nürnberg og nordpå til Hamborg. Det var fem år siden, jeg vendte tilbage til Hamborg, og jeg var meget glad for at være der. Her er min rejse fra den dag.
SE Hej allihopa. För tjugo år sedan idag gjorde jag en sällsynt återkomst till Europa för tredje gången på ett år. Jag flög till Frankfurt am Main från Washington Dulles. Sedan åkte jag till Nürnberg och norrut till Hamburg. Det hade gått fem år sedan jag återvände till Hamburg, och jag var väldigt glad över att vara där. Här är min resa från den dagen.
FR Salut tout le monde. Il y a vingt ans jour pour jour, j'ai fait un rare retour en Europe pour la troisième fois en un an. J'ai atterri à Francfort-sur-le-Main depuis Washington Dulles. Ensuite, je suis allé à Nuremberg et au nord à Hambourg. Cela faisait cinq ans que je n'étais pas revenu à Hambourg et j'étais très heureux d'y être. Voici mon parcours depuis ce jour.
Guten Morgen! Good morning!
On Friday, 8th November 2002, I had arrived at the Frankfurt am Main airport about 6:40 AM, a little early according to the schedule, so it was okay. I had to go through customs and passport control. It took a little time to go through passport control. I turned on Z98 (98.7 FM for Frankfurt), listened to some music, including "Complicated" by Avril Lavigne, and then I tuned the radio to HR3, 89.3 FM in Frankfurt. I listened to two songs that I still listen to today in 2022. One was "Müll(er) Pur" by Andreas Müller, which was a satire on the music of German-language band Pur. The other was the HR3 Weckermarsch that went "Guten Morgen, guten Morgen, singe ich nur für dich, leise in dein Ohr" which was played kind of as a joke, and included the bleats of Manfred the Rhön-sheep, that I had remembered from years ago when I listened to HR3 while working in the district of Nieder-Eschbach. Eventually my passport was stamped with "Frankfurt am Main" with the usual Schengen stamp and "D" surrounded by twelve stars. I was free to exit the airport, but I had to bear in mind, that my flight to Nuremberg would take off in about two hours. I went to the underground grocery store close to the Regionalbahnhof for the S-Bahn. Back then, the Fernbahnhof, the long distance train station, did not even exist. And even Gateway Gardens, opened in late 2019 was not even an idea, back in 2002. What did I buy in the grocery store? A one-liter bottle of Schoppenpetzer Äppler, or Apple Wine. Apple Wine in Frankfurt tends to be more sour, more on the level of vinegar, than British or French cider. But I liked it since 1993, so I bought myself a bottle to enjoy on the train ride. I packed it in my backpack, and returned to the security area for Terminal 1 concourse A. They did not mind that I had a bottle of Äppler, as at that time, I was flying on a domestic flight to Nuremberg, and security was not as tight as it were for an international flight. It was not a concern until 2006.
I made it back in time for the flight to Nuremberg, airport code NUE. It was on a Lufthansa flight, on a single-aisle Airbus A321. The flight left Frankfurt around 9 AM and arrived about 10 AM in Nuremberg. The airport was quite small at the time. The airport had proper gangways from the aircraft to the terminal, and walking distance to the baggage claim was fairly short, compared to Frankfurt. I was able to get my wheeled bag, get out some money to buy a ticket for the U Bahn, and headed to Nürnberg Hbf.
My last visit to Nuremberg was in June 1998. At the time, Herrnhütte was the northernmost station on the U2. The last two or three years hence, an extension had been built to the airport. The airport station is underground and has a central platform. I had just missed the train by a minute, but it was an old DT1 built in the 1970s, about the time the Munich U Bahn built their A-series rolling stock as seen in the 1985 Percy Adlon film "Sugarbaby". There would be another U Bahn coming in the next ten minutes. I did not care much, which train to Hamburg I would catch, so I waited ten minutes for the next one. The next train was a more modern DT2 built in the 1980s. It had automatic station announcements, although in comparison to 1998, the one starting 2002 was female. I boarded the U2 for Hauptbahnhof. Between Airport and Ziegelbrücke, the train was single tracked, but the rest of the way it was double tracked. Only every other U2 train went from Ziegelbrücke to the airport, the other turned back to Röthenbach via Hbf and Plärrer. The train even passed Nordostbahnhof and Wöhrder Wiese before stopping at Hbf. I did not really rush to the long distance train platform. I went to the ticket office to validate my rail pass. My rail pass was good for Germany, Denmark and Switzerland but not Sweden. There was a 11 AM train going to Hamburg Hbf, which would arrive around 4 PM, so I took the ICE train and boarded first class.
The train left Nürnberg Hbf for Würzburg, Kassel, Braunschweig, Hannover and Hamburg Hbf. After ticket inspection, I was thirsty. In first class, the conductor or some similar staff member, can bring items from the dining car to the passenger's seat at no extra charge. I ordered a whole grain bread sandwich of salami, turkey and gouda, to go with my Äppler. That made the journey nice.
While I was on the train, there was an entertainment system where you just plug in your headphones and enjoy music or watch the seatback TV screen. They had a program with music that I liked, that included songs like
"Still in love with you" No Angels
"Get over you" Sophie Ellis-Bextor
"I O I O" B3 (cover version of the same song by the Bee Gees, released in 1970, long before their Saturday Night Fever fame)
"Rhythm of the night" Loona
There was another program that followed from an artist named Ryan Adams, who had absolutely no relation to Bryan Adams from Canada. He was promoting his Demolition CD which was released in 2002. The music was not to my taste, but I listened to it along the way to Hamburg.
The Äppler kind of made me doze off after the train left Kassel-Wilhelmshöhe, so I missed out on Braunschweig and Hannover. I woke up about the time the train was about to arrive at Hamburg's Harburg, which was the first place in Hamburg to connect with the local S Bahn. Upon arrival at Hamburg Hbf, I exited the train, looked for the Hamburg North U Bahn station for the then-U3 to Horner Rennbahn. My youth hostel was at Horner Rennbahn and about a half mile walk towards the eponymous horse racetrack. I had not been to Hamburg since more than five years, so my memory was maybe adequate to find the right train platform. The south U Bahn station is easier to navigate than the north one, as there is only one central platform. The north station has two side platforms. The south U Bahn station even has a ramp for wheelchairs and to a lesser extend also for people with wheeled bags. That is where I boarded the U3 for Horner Rennbahn.
The trains at the time were a bit old, namely they were DT3 refurbished similar to the DT4s which were newest back then. They actually had automatic train announcements. The train left Hbf for Berliner Tor, and then went on to Mümmelmansberg, which is now operated by U2 after line configuration. Most of the line was underground except for a short stretch between Burgstraße and Hammer Kirche. I exited the train at Horner Rennbahn and walked north to the hostel. It was a decent hostel, owned by the DJH, the German affiliate of YHA, and the room at the time was under 30 Euro a night including breakfast, with Hostelling International membership card. I dropped my wheeled bag off on the bed I was assigned, then took my green bag and went back into downtown.
First I took the U Bahn to Landungsbrücken, took some photos of the port, and then went on to St. Pauli. Many years later there was a memorial to the Beatles, located at Reeperbahn S Bahn station, but not in 2002 yet. St. Pauli if you remain on Reeperbahn, is safe, but the side streets are the dodgy part. I took the S Bahn to Altona, then Sternschanze. Some of the new S Bahns, had automatic train announcements installed, and with none other than the voice of - you guessed it! - Ingo Ruff. He would say "nächste Haltestelle" as in Hamburg they don't say "nächste Station" or "nächster Halt", for next stop. For a transfer he would say "Übergang" and not "Umsteigemöglichkeit" as they would in the south. I changed to a U3 and then a U2, and took some photos of the narrow platforms. No one really said a word to me at the time. I remember in 1997 having a ticket inspection at Sternschanze. I went to Lutterothstraße to see what was going on. It started to rain, so I went back inside the station and took the U Bahn back to Hbf. I bought a reservation for the next day's train to Copenhagen, I think the one departing at 9:30 AM.
I took the U3 back to Horner Rennbahn and went to sleep. I would have a nice train ride the next day to Denmark.
I hope you will join me for when I take the train across the Baltic Sea from Puttgarden on the Fehmarn island to Rødby Færge in Denmark, and eventually Copenhagen for the Christiania visit. And of course some very tasty pølse.
Gute Nacht! Good night! Godnat!