Very very very bad idea, I have to tell you. So what was the bad idea? Basically to trust myself in having the determination and the memory to write two-three weeks after I finished this wonderful trip. Yes, I kept telling to myself that this way my writing would have my reflection in it. In any case, I will upload the photos once my computer gets fixed. As for now, this is the blog post.
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After getting food poisoning, experiencing the rainy season in the mountains, I was really ready to leave Laos. Unfortunately my stay in the country was not the best and all I desired was McDonalds to leave. But really though, there is no McDonalds in Laos.
Since it was raining and before that I had a very bad health, I had about 10 photos or less from Laos. The last day I spent with roaming around the city and just taking photos of temples, streets and people. I wish I could be more brave and just take portraits of people. What amazed me in Chiang Mai and in Vientiane as well was that Buddhist monks were walking around the city all the time.Â
The last sight that I visited in Laos was the Buddha statue park. It is a park full of Hindu and Buddhist statues capturing some significant figures in the religion. The park meant to reconcile the two religions through finding commonalities and mixing the traditional styles of representations.
And lastly I visited yet again Patuxai, the Lao version of the French Victory Gate. While flying out of Laos I was trying to reflect on the experience whether it was not so pleasant because of my sickness and the weather or because Laos is not a place for tourists.Â
Perhaps it is not a place for tourists like me. Vang Vieng offers beautiful scenery, which I saw but it is also the place for party tourism. Vientiane does not boast with much of an interesting tourist sites, especially not for rainy days. I have visited the National Museum, which I thought looked like my Grandma’s bookshelf. It brought together books, posters and pictures about Marxism, Lenin, USSR, Communism, French Imperialism but does not really talk much about what is Laos.Â
While I read that Lao nationalism grounds in Communism, I did not realize until the museum that Laos really does not have much physical, natural and cultural heritage upon which patriotism could be built. Besides, almost all the products were imported from Thailand, marked with “Made in Thailand”. Flying above Laos, I also realized that the country has very bad natural conditions for improving its domestic economy and production, since almost the entire country lies in the mountains. In addition, I know that even developed countries receive foreign aid (e.g. Japan received nuclear clearing foreign aid) but seeing how rudimental the foreign aid in Laos is, I realized that the country would not be as modern as it is now. I am referring to the Japanese infrastructure foreign aid, that provided mountain roads (made my bus ride less bumpy) and buses for city transport.
My initial expectations from Laos was that I would travel to a country with a sad history, poor economic development yet flourishing patriotism because Laos was finally an independent country. But I just felt like, there is not much “Lao” in Laos.Â
This one is an elementary school yard in Vientiane. The classrooms had Marx and Lenin on the wall and the kids were wearing blue and red scarves (they were pioneers).
Finally, I was ready to depart from Vientiane. After being sick for a few days and eating one meal per day (and sometimes even less) I was finally ready to face my bumpiest car ride to Vang Vieng.
But literally, this was probably the bumpiest car ride I ever had. For a significant amount of time I was a few centimeters above my seat or other times pushed into it. Our minivan also did not take well the bumpy ride and opened its back door where our bags were stored. Luckily we did not lose any bags! But hello my fellow carsick friends out there! This is not the ride you want to take. And apparently the Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang bus ride is even wrose.
I don't know how my luck is this bad in Laos, but this time because of the weather we can't do anything. Vang Vieng boasts with one of the most beautiful river sceneries in the world and all I see is fog. I just feel like I came to Laos to do nothing. This bad weather will clear up two days from now on, which coincides with our departure to Vietnam. This is why we started considering whether we actually should stay this long in Laos or just postpone it to next time. It is really unfortunate, but hey, cheer up! I went on a five minute photo tour out of boredom, came back totally soaked and here are the results!
Laos, huh? It does not appear at all in my history book and the only thing I knew about it was its location. Thanks to Wikipedia, Wikitravel, Travelopedia and other (actually) very useful sites I had fun for the first two hours of this 12 hour long bus ride.
One of the above mentioned sites said that Laos is only 21% urbanized, which struck me so hard since the least urbanized place I’ve been to in my life was China with about 50%. This heavily agricultural country also is the most bombarded country in history due to the American troops trying to fight against Communism during the Vietnam War. This actually made me wonder whether I really want to cross the Laos-Vietnam border by land, mhm.
In any case, reading through the history of the country it seemed to me that it is full of “oppression” or “foreign control”. First Siam (Thailand), next the France, then the Japanese Empire, back to France then finally independent in 1953! The monarchy that France has set up failed a few years later. Laos people started to redefine their national narrative through the help of Vietnamese Communism, hence the country being one of the few Communist countries today.
So while going downhill from Chiang Mai to the Laos border, swaying right and left in the serpentines, I decided to practice my French with the older Laotian generation!
One last question that the Wiki sites failed to enlighten me about was why the two versions of the names for the country: Laos and Lao’s. Quest: find it out from local Laotians!
Picture: The distance between Chiang Mai and Vientiane is only 780 km, but it took us 12 hours because of border control and the terrible serpentines.
Day 12: Doi Inthanon National Park and My Phobia of Driving
Doi Inthanon is the highest point of entire Thailand and contrary to my previous belief, I was not tricked. DoI Inthanon is part of the Himalayas! Or perhaps I was tricked to not to believe my suspicion of getting tricked, but for the sake of appearing cool and telling stories about “how I climbed the Himalaya with a minivan my bare foot” let’s just believe it is true.
The first stop that the tour included was the Karen tribal village. While researching online the Long Neck Karen tribe, I found many bad reviews about it being “uninspirational” but I always took it in a way that it is rather depressing to see a “zoo of people”. In fact, what they were talking about is that the village has nothing special and not much to see there. With the exception of a few puppies that were incredibly cute, I would agree that the village did not have anything special about it. But on the other hand it made me calm down a bit that I did not visit a “zoo of people” where minority tribes would perform some dance and entertain the tourists. On the contrary, I just felt being too invasive to this village that had nothing peculiar. Western brand clothes hanging to dry under the sun, a set of TV in a dark shack, all in all everything seemed just very normal to me making me feel that I am looking at someone’s living space and that they may not want intruders like us.
Picture: Karen woman making Arabica coffee
Going further we saw a waterfall that was pretty mediocre, then yet again a mediocre market. But when we arrived to the King and Queen temples (our actual intended destination) I just felt that it was worth the visit to the National Park. Unfortunately we had no introduction of why and when the place was erected. From a Wolkswagen car mural trying to appear old, it made me realize that this place was built sometime in the mid-20th century.
Can you believe that we only spent 40 minutes in this heaven on earth paradise? If I was to organize the tour, I would have just left out the village and the mediocre waterfall. This also made me realize how much I want to learn how to drive and just rent a car. Yes! Rent a car! How much easier would backpacking (and maybe life) be if I had a car to drive around?Â
Traveling really makes people get to know themselves better and perhaps grow as a person. What I learned while we stayed in Chiang Mai is to overcome my fear of roads. From a very young age on, I had nightmares of sitting in front of the handle of a car and not being able to control it then the next second running into a tree or down the hill. Because of this, I had a fear of biking on the road together with cars as well. Chiang Mai, unlike most Western European cities has no biking lanes and hence I was forced to just pedal on the road with many many cars. There I learned some traffic rules, and also some ways to signal to other cars what direction I am headed to (or trying to in the traffic).
Perhaps I will try to get a driving license! Yeah!
Picture: This waterfall was better than the other mediocre waterfall.
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Today, we decided to have a lazy day, wash our clothes, take a nap because we got again a snoring roommate and just enjoy the sun in Chiang Mai. The two programs that we have planned for today were: Documentary Arts Asia and the Sunday Market.
It has never occurred to me that I have never ever talked to a professional photographer about his/her job! And today was the day when I finally had a nice chat with a Canadian photographer working in Burma.Â
Looking through his Lightroom I found out that he has a Lens Baby with which he “plays around” and uses for fun shots, while for his documentary work he uses a normal lens. Having observed that even a professional photographer might like effects similar to that of Lomography made me happy that I am not alone.
What further acknowledges the fact that I am not alone (why would I be?) was when I asked him about getting inspirational photography in a place that he knows well. What bothered me throughout last summer was that I simply could not take good photos in Budapest; I knew the city too well to actually see things.
He said that it happens to him as well. The way he circumvents such problem is by inviting foreign travelers to stay with him (for example with Couch Surfing). For non local people of course the city provides a handful amount of novelties that they would tell the host to remind me of the city’s actual beauty and perhaps helping the host to see his/her city in a different light.
“Traveling alone will teach you something about yourself” said my supervisor for the Resident Assistant job. In fact he wants to travel on the Trans Siberian Express for a week!
Pondering about what he said, on the way to Shenzhen I was thinking about what I have learned about myself. One thing I know for sure is that I can’t stand the smell of animal blood.
But today, I learned something deeper. It was about 8 PM when I decided to roam around Tsim Sha Tsui to shop for a Cantonese Language book, but then I found a camera store. Because I wanted to buy a wide-angle lens, I went in and asked for a wide-angle lens. I was lucky because the vendor was really nice - so I thought.
I bought the lens for a price that was more than what I expected, but apparently it was cheaper than in The States (he thought I was from America). I read in a blog that camera equipment prices are cheaper than in Europe, so I decided to buy it. Afterwards, I checked in the subway station how much it was supposed to cost and Taobao showed prices of less than 30 yuan, which broke my heart because I paid way more than 10 times of that price.
In my desperation, I rushed back to the store and I wanted to ask for a better lens. I knew that I won’t get my money back but at least I thought I could upgrade the lens to a better one. Thinking that I was cheated by this guy made me lose my confidence to its last bit.
The vendor calmed me down and said that Taobao has many fake lenses and this is real hence the price difference and he showed me a book full of price tags for lenses. For my mental sake I decided to believe him.
On the way home, I missed my train to Futian Checkpoint, so I had to board the train to the other Checkpoint. Going the longer way I couldn’t avoid thinking about what has happened. I put my phone in my bag and for a moment I thought I lost my walled, because I could not find it. Of course it was there, since I have a lock on my bag. Where did my confidence go?
The vendor talked a little bit about, how he was doubting whether I was American because I seemed lot more humble than the Americans he met. He told me that it is good that I am humble. Although I did not think I was too humble, perhaps this event changed me. It sort of provided me an environment that was similar to where I grew up, in Japan. It was interesting how I was again in a culture where being humble was much appreciated.