100 Documentaries → 10/100 || A Few Good Pie Places
PRODUCER: Rick Sebak (WQED) YEAR: 2015 WATCH: PBS
OFFICIAL DESCRIPTION: “ There are delicious pies for sale at shops, restaurants, cafes and roadside stands across America. So, in this delicious documentary we celebrate A Few Good Pie Places where people still make flaky crusts and scrumptious fillings.” - PBS
MISSION STATEMENT: “Since I was a small kid, I’ve known how important a bakery can be. There was a bakery across the street from my elementary school, and it was a frequent stop on my way home. And I know many bakeries here in Pittsburgh where I live now, and I’m fascinated by how they become such a valued part of a neighborhood. Nowadays you often see lists of Ten Best Bakeries or even 50 Best Bakeries, but I don’t understand how anyone can make that claim. These bakeries we feature are all really great, but I wouldn’t pretend to know if they’re the best. So I decided we should just call this program 'A Few Great Bakeries' and we’ll hope to convince people to look for more.” - Rick Sebak
MY TAKE: Upfront: this is Sebak’s weakest food documentary, at least of those that are still able to be sourced by the general viewing public at all. That said, it’s perfectly fine for comfort-viewing, and there’s nothing concrete I can point to that’s wrong with it. The inherent conceit of “scrapbook documentary” -- as Sebak, who is credited with the invention of the genre and coinage of the term, calls his works -- is that its through-line relies on fascinating ordinary people, and maybe it’s just that... piemakers are the least fascinating group he’s covered? (Sorry, Ned of Pushing Daisies, you’re different since you’re fictional.)
Perhaps the weakness comes from the distinct lack of voice in the piece, both from Sebak’s editing and those featured. The regionality that Sebak has always sought to highlight, at least in his national PBS programs like this, doesn’t shine the way that it does in “Hot Dog” or “Ice Cream.” And you CANNOT tell me that pie isn’t a historically regional food -- Jan & Michael Stern have built a career on it.
Maybe it’s that for the first time, Sebak’s voice feels forced. I have a loose theory that the “generic” feeling, especially compared to “A Hot Dog Program” (1999) and “An Ice Cream Show” (1996), was borne of the Internet Age. Rather than the delightful sense in the older programs that the featured personalities kind of assumed that everyone’s idea of [insert thing here] was their local version, “A Few Good Pie Places” has no such conceit. Marionberry piemakers in Washington know that no one else has marionberries and Iowa sugar-cream bakers know that no one else has tried a sugar-cream pie. There’s an underlying tone that Sebak, in the editing room, had to trim out all of the SEO Optimized Pitches this time around in a way he didn’t before. Even the tiny independents who Sebak and his crew find in far-flung places from Alaska and Hawai’i to Pennsylvania and California have done the market research.
That’s not to say that anyone comes across unlikable or anything. Far from it. It’s charming and everyone’s very sweet and gracious and damn if I don’t want pie. There’s just a bit of a hollow sense that, just as real scrapbooking has taken a sharp hit as a craft in the age of digital photo albums, scrapbook documentary might be harder to make really sing if the average person is worried about how they’ll come across in a thousand Google results instead of on a single public TV showcase.
(BUT DAMN IF I DON’T WANT PIE NOW.)
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