Sonic Toys and Dioramas

Small grains or bubbles in the paint are the weak points where it will start chipping and peeling as its handled. Depending on how bad they are I may remove that spot and repaint it. Usually they are small enough to leave alone.

Larger areas can effect the look of the figure though, and tend to already be flaking off. The paint flaws above on the head make the figure look damaged even though the paint is intact, the ones below on the knee have already started chipping away.

Sometimes the choice to repaint is easy, the paint is already scuffed or did not get fully covered in the factory.

Sometimes its a harder debate. The flaw is small, but noticable, like a single pearl on the hand, or very large and requires fully stripping the part, like this humidity wrinkle.

Excalibur Sonic comes in 2 colors, high gloss gold, and low gloss warm gold. The high gloss tends to have black plastic underneath, and the warm gold on white plastic. At first I wondered if the black/white effected how the color was percieved and they were the same paint but the warm gold has a barely noticable texture while the high gloss is smooth, and my own pait match for the high gloss cannot be used on the warm gold, it stands out too much.

And for some reason the ears are painted the same color as Sonic's muzzle in the high gloss figures..

This doesn't correlate with the different muzzle colors, the warm gold has both the muted and warm peach colors, as well as the darker and lighter blue. I think these differences are just in the paint batches.

This makes color matching a pain in the ass, which means prior attempts to repair the figure are easy to spot.

Here someone tried to paint the arm without removing it or smoothing down the peeling paint under it. You can see the wrinkles of the flaking paint, and that it is on the ball joint and butt-cape clasp. The paint is also more of a metalic brown than vibrant gold.

Same issue here, in almost the exact same spot, except this looks more like a metalic ink pen was used. The color is a much closer match once the full arm is painted, but again that drop on the casp and this streak of the original paint makes it obvious. If they had removed the arm to paint it it would have passed inspection.

This touch up was actually done in the factory. There is a deep gouge in the paint of the quill that was filled after the rest of it dried. At first i thought it was just a drop of paint running down the quill but the half-filled scrape and multiple dripp points tell me it was intentional.

For comparison heres 3 of my paint touchups. You don't want visible brush strokes, so the paint should go on evenly. Removing the peeling paint underneath is important, and if you need to fill in a chip you should be sure to even out the whole area.

This part is just the adhesive stripped but its a nice place to show off how the paint can blend in once fully dry.

Small grains or bubbles in the paint are the weak points where it will start chipping and peeling as its handled. Depending on how bad they are I may remove that spot and repaint it. Usually they are small enough to leave alone.

Larger areas can effect the look of the figure though, and tend to already be flaking off. The paint flaws above on the head make the figure look damaged even though the paint is intact, the ones below on the knee have already started chipping away.

Sometimes the choice to repaint is easy, the paint is already scuffed or did not get fully covered in the factory.

Sometimes its a harder debate. The flaw is small, but noticable, like a single pearl on the hand, or very large and requires fully stripping the part, like this humidity wrinkle.

Excalibur Sonic comes in 2 colors, high gloss gold, and low gloss warm gold. The high gloss tends to have black plastic underneath, and the warm gold on white plastic. At first I wondered if the black/white effected how the color was percieved and they were the same paint but the warm gold has a barely noticable texture while the high gloss is smooth, and my own pait match for the high gloss cannot be used on the warm gold, it stands out too much.

And for some reason the ears are painted the same color as Sonic's muzzle in the high gloss figures..

This doesn't correlate with the different muzzle colors, the warm gold has both the muted and warm peach colors, as well as the darker and lighter blue. I think these differences are just in the paint batches.

This makes color matching a pain in the ass, which means prior attempts to repair the figure are easy to spot.

Here someone tried to paint the arm without removing it or smoothing down the peeling paint under it. You can see the wrinkles of the flaking paint, and that it is on the ball joint and butt-cape clasp. The paint is also more of a metalic brown than vibrant gold.

Same issue here, in almost the exact same spot, except this looks more like a metalic ink pen was used. The color is a much closer match once the full arm is painted, but again that drop on the casp and this streak of the original paint makes it obvious. If they had removed the arm to paint it it would have passed inspection.

This touch up was actually done in the factory. There is a deep gouge in the paint of the quill that was filled after the rest of it dried. At first i thought it was just a drop of paint running down the quill but the half-filled scrape and multiple dripp points tell me it was intentional.

For comparison heres 3 of my paint touchups. You don't want visible brush strokes, so the paint should go on evenly. Removing the peeling paint underneath is important, and if you need to fill in a chip you should be sure to even out the whole area.

Small grains or bubbles in the paint are the weak points where it will start chipping and peeling as its handled. Depending on how bad they are I may remove that spot and repaint it. Usually they are small enough to leave alone.

Larger areas can effect the look of the figure though, and tend to already be flaking off. The paint flaws above on the head make the figure look damaged even though the paint is intact, the ones below on the knee have already started chipping away.

Sometimes the choice to repaint is easy, the paint is already scuffed or did not get fully covered in the factory.

Sometimes its a harder debate. The flaw is small, but noticable, like a single pearl on the hand, or very large and requires fully stripping the part, like this humidity wrinkle.

First coat of paint!

The original listing, sold for fodder.

The remaining fodder that came to me.

Fully rebuilt the nose using flex resin and charcoal acrylic paint. Washed and repainted the white of the eyes, touched up the silver and purple with enamel paint. And repainted the miscolored arm (now on the left)

Luckily the damage from the superglue didn't penetrate that deeply into the plastic, I was able to scrape most of it off without having to rebuild a chunk of his face.

I had it in my color match album. Since i was trying out my new mix of Testors enamel paint. I mixed 1134 purple gloss with 52714 grape pearl to touch up the scuffed paint. I still need a bit more work to get the right level of pearlescence, but this is my closest color match yet. I was able to easily scrape off the super glue and drill out the old nose. Touching up the silver edges and the white of the eyes is easy, its the purple that kills me.

I never took a picture of the fodder when it arrived, but the paint did a lot to protect the plastic from the suger glue burn. You can tell its the same figure because I never fixed the spot on his helmet where the red meets the point of his visor. It still has that little factory flaw. I meant to fix it when I repainted the scuffmarks, but it works out since now I'm posting the pictures out of order XD

I use 1181 Aluminum for the metallic areas because it really pops on Purple Shadow, and 1104 Dark Red for his markings. Once his nose hole is drilled and sanded i can fit it to a replacement nose. I use blax flex UV resin in a small silicone mold.

It needs to be extra long, its important that the nose sits inside the head, don't glue it ontop of a flat surface.

I like to use a dip needle to add the adhesive, but you can also use a precision applicator. Its easier to add more glue than to remove excess glue from a painted figure. Also my prefered glue (loctite) has its activator in a marker style tube, so the dip needle is kind of important for small drops.

Different glues work for different plastics. For this i used an epoxy plastic filler glue so it would fill in the gaps between the hole and nose and not cause offgassing burn. I originally believed I'd need to build up parts of the face from the glue burn, and a gap filler style plastic glue is perfect for that.

And here's the result. Glue dries clear, nose is flexible and won't break off or catch on the visor.

I have Lancelot (opened but with his original box) and Excalibur (originally bought without his box) but all pieces are included with both (visors, swords, etc).