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Battles, crosses and combs. The first question I always want to ask about Pictish stones is “why?”, closely followed by “who?”.  What is the purpose of the carvings?  Were they done purely for art’s sake, to commemorate events for future generations, to boost a chieftain’s standing in the world, or for some other reason I haven’t yet fathomed? It’s nice to know I’m not the only one who doesn’t…

Historic moor and forest I went for a bike ride the other day along the tracks through the forest behind my house, returning on the roads that encircle it.  Variously pronounced “Monrummond” (which is what appears on the oldest maps), “Montrimont” and “Montreathmont”, this lovely stretch of mixed woodland lies in the triangle between Brechin, Letham and Friockheim in central Angus. It’s been…

Safe haven on a rocky coast I have to admit to a special fondness for Catterline Harbour, as this is where Montrose Sub Aqua Club have their boathouse and bothy.  I’ve been a member of the club for several years and have dived in the harbour, and around the island further out in the bay, on many occasions. Seals breed (and sing) on the island and occasionally you’ll meet some of the bolder ones,…

Home of learning and entertainment Brechin (* see below for pronunciation) is a fascinating place.  The size of a large village, it is in fact one of Britain’s smallest cities.  It has a 13th century cathedral that’s now a parish church of the Church of Scotland.  Since it therefore has no Bishop, it isn’t technically a Cathedral any more.  (The Episcopalian Diocese of Brechin uses St Paul’s…

Great men – and others The town and port of Montrose, on Scotland’s north-east coast, has a fine collection of sculptures waiting to be discovered by the open-eyed visitor.  (The seagulls, inevitably, have already found them). Some are of local figures, others made by locals, and still others haven’t even a tenuous connection to the town. Two of the Montrose sculptures stand very close together…

  The Nairn Fishwife with her speldings The east coast herring bonanza In Nairn Harbour stands the statue of a Nairn Fishwife holding a handful of what look like kippers.  They’re Nairn speldings, one of the many ways the silver darlings (herring) were cured. Unlike kippers, which are smoked, Nairn speldings were split open and dried in the sun.  The name comes from the Scots verb “speld”,…

Cromarty’s Good Samaritan

James Thomson’s blue plaque, Cromarty James Thomson MD, hero of the Crimea Embedded in the weathered sandstone wall of the antique shop at the corner of High Street and Church Street in Cromarty is a blue plaque.  It says “Birthplace of James Thomson MD, 1823-1854.  A Good Samaritan to wounded enemy Russians at the Battle of Alma in the Crimean War”.  Who was this medic who died, aged just 31,…

  The Lecht mine Mining, whisky and religion The Lecht is a steep road – this is, after all, one of Scotland’s main skiing areas.  The road seems to climb for ever to the summit, over 2,000 feet above sea level.  Imagine what it must have been like for the poor bull who helped drag the rollers for the Lecht Mine over it. The Lecht mines The mine was built in 1841 and closed just five years later…

Moray, Beauly, Cromarty and Ness

Hugh Miller’s cottage, Cromarty Three Firths and a Loch Moray, Beauly, Cromarty and Ness sound like an old-fashioned firm of lawyers, don’t they?  And the Black Isle adds a touch of intrigue to the proceedings…  The reality is slightly less dramatic. The Moray, Beauly and Cromarty firths almost completely encircle the Black Isle (we’ll come to Ness later). The delta of the River Conon does its…

Murton Farm, Tearoom and Nature Reserve

  Fun with a purpose Murton signage says “Farm and Tearoom” and that’s accurate as far as it goes: there is indeed an excellent tearoom, it’s on the site of what was a farm and there are still animals to see and, by arrangement, pet.  (There’s also an excellent and growing play-park and a wind turbine.)  For many visitors, these facilities are what the place is all about. Which is fine; but it…

A unique survivor Dundee’s Victoria Dock is home to just two ships: the North Carr lightship and HMS Unicorn (also known as HM Frigate Unicorn).  She’s the sixth oldest surviving ship in Europe and the fourth oldest in the UK – the oldest still afloat – and has several claims to uniqueness. Built in 1824, Unicorn never fired a shot and, indeed, wasn’t even fitted with masts or rigging.  But she…