Hi! I have recently gotten back into drawing and close to two.months ago I started learning ukrainian and I really want to draw (more) things related to ukrainian culture but I am always worried about accidentaly using a reference of something related to russian culture etc..
Do you have a tip.on how I can make sure?
Hello and thank you for your question!
First of all, I'd love to hug you (if you'd like that) because seeing people learning Ukrainian language and culture and drawing things related to Ukraine always warms my silly little heart🤧💜
Here's a nice old Mykola Pymonenko painting for you to look at (cause look how peaceful and pretty it is!)
Now, let's talk a little bit about searching for references.
Luckily, when it comes to clothes, Ukrainian and russian folk clothing is actually pretty damn different (yet another stone at the "brotherly nations" narrative). You are much more likely to confuse a Ukrainian costume with, say, a Romanian or Polish one than a russian one.
(Ukrainian (on the left) vs russian (on the right) clothing on historical photography. I'm just saying that they're pretty darn different)
The problem is, of course, that russia is constantly trying to appropriate the Ukrainian costume (as they do with anything else), so you are likely to see misguiding descriptions or comments (as shown here).
So our goal today is to learn how to tell apart Ukrainian and russian costumes (trust me, it is not that hard), talk about certain traditions that are more likely to be either one or the other, and then I'll list some foolproof tips for anyone out there looking for references 💜
Here is the thing: the most iconic thing in Ukrainian traditional clothing is most likely the vyshyvanka — a traditional embroidered shirt. That's an element you won't see in russian clothing. Period. As I've said, it's much easier to confuse Ukrainian clothing with our other neighbours.
The elements you will probably not find in Ukrainian clothing are the kosovorotka (a shirt with the collar that's kinda off-centred) and the kokoshnik (a piece of headwear that's usually attributed specifically to russia). Also, traditionally, you aren't likely to see a Ukrainian woman wear a sarafan (a type of upper dress without sleeves), since most women in Ukraine wore long shirts as a base with a variety of types of skirts and upper pieces on top separately, depending on the region, weather and status. We also have to keep in mind that the people from the cities and the villages dressed differently for different purposes, and that the financial status determined the amount of accessories and the type of materials one could wear. For example, Ukrainian girls "invested" and wore a lot of necklaces, one of which could cost a lot, like, more than two bulls or something. Definitely a big status symbol and probably the reason I love layering necklaces so much.
The more necklaces, the better! These girls get it!
Another thing — there are regions in russia that used to be overwhelmingly populated by Ukrainians, and so the costumes would be more similar to those from Ukraine, because they are of Ukrainian origin. Duh. Regions like belgorod, voronezh, kursk etc.
When it comes to traditions, it is a little more difficult, because during the Schism of the russian Church a lot of the old traditions originating in russia were forcibly replaced to match the canons from Greece and Kyiv(!). Since religion was a central part of a person's life back in the day, a lot of the traditions might be similar. Another reason they might be similar would be the process of russification in both the Russian Empire and the Soviet Union.
Some of the authentic Ukrainian traditions that did not exist in russia: vechornytsi (a tradition of young people's social gatherings (those were spicy as well 👀)); the tradition of Malanka (costumed NYE celebration, usually including a goat mask and the Christmas stars (zvizda), Christmas and New Year carols (literally don't exist in russia so they translate ours🤡). In general, Ukrainian traditions are more connected to agrarian life and are more individualistic and egalitarian in nature, the russian traditions are more collectivist hierarchical (a lot more patriarchal, too).
Ukrainians all over the world celebrating Christmas
Now for the foolproof (almost, because nothing in this world is a 100% guarantee, of course) method for finding references!
So, you may have noticed that Pinterest and Google search kind of suck in separating Ukrainian and russian culture overall. Here are a few more or less reliable sources you could use instead:
1. This Wikipedia article about Ukrainian traditional clothing (in Ukrainian, but it has the most information by region, and also provides evidence in historical photography, illustrations and paintings)
2. The internet pages for ethnographic museums: for example, National Museum of Ukrainian Folk Decorative Art or Ivan Honchar Museum. The Ukrainian museums from abroad can also be very helpful, since they may include heirlooms that would otherwise be destroyed or sold in the colonisation processes.
3. Historical literature, magazines and illustrations: for example, Striy can be very helpful here.
4. Historical paintings! The National Library of Ukraine has a great selection to start.
5. If you want something more modern, ethnic photographer Anna Senik has really interesting looks and perspective to offer!
P.S.: I don't know what happened, but the post got recovered! I am super happy, since I put a lot of time and effort into this! Hope you enjoy it!