RectorSeal

eraserturds asks:

Food smells coming from basement?

I tried a couple searches and nothing really seems to fit my situation.

There are tenants that live in the basement and every time they cook, the smells come up in to the main floor. I think the smell is making it’s way through cold air return in to the basement straight up to the cold air return on the main floor.

Is there anything I can do to stop this? It can be pretty strong at times.

Is this as bad as it looks? Mold in apartment A/C vent

User RobotDrZaius writes:

I took off the vent cover because I was trying to close it and the switch was stuck. Looks like death inside. Now, I’ve lived in this apartment with my g/f for almost 6 months with no health or respiratory problems…is this as awful as it looks to my untrained eye? Should I contact my apartment’s maintenance people or just clean it myself (wearing a dust mask, of course)?

Selling Firestop from a liability standpoint is difficult but not if you are armed with the facts.

Most distributor salespeople that are selling firestop are selling it because the customer asks for it. But over and over again they have to convince the customer to buy it. Why don’t more contractors buy firestop? “It is required by code,” is what the salesman says. But is it? Selling firestop is not just furnishing material. It creates a partnership between the contractor and the salesman.

The contractor knows that it is required in some places and not required in other places. Is this true? No it is required by all of the model building codes. The only difference is the degree of code enforcement, or the intensity of inspection. Some contractors respond, “The inspector has signed off.” He thinks he is in the clear, but the building is still not built to code. Just because the inspector signs off  doesn’t mean everything is correct, it just means he didn’t catch the offending condition.

Firestop is a life safety issue. It is required by all of the model building codes as well as NFPA 101, Life Safety Code, a typical mention in most jobs. Because firestopping is a life safety issue taking it lightly can have dire consequences.

If someone dies in a building fire what happens? The investigative agencies go into full swing. One of the first questions asked was this building built to the applicable building code. Investigators will ask the building inspectors who will respond in the affirmative if they were the ones that signed off. Then the investigators will sift through the building looking for the reasons for the spread of the fire. Firestopping was developed to limit the spread of the fire and toxic gases. So what if the investigators find the firestop was installed improperly or not installed at all?

Contractors have been caught screwing sprinkler heads into gypsum walls without the backing of pipes full of water. This is out and out fraud. What is the difference between this and a contractor mixing food coloring into drywall mud to make it look like firestop.  Recently one of our distributors caught a contractor mixing drywall mud with spray firestop material to stretch it out. Is this ignorance or fraud?

Was the contractor trained in how to install the firestop? Was he informed to the importance of doing the job right? Did he care? Was the General Contractor or Construction Manager properly supervising him? Whose responsibility was it anyway?

An article written by a lawyer, specializing in Construction Law, a General Contractor erected a building, which subsequently burned. The State building code under which the building was constructed required the installation of a firestop in an open plenum space above a false ceiling. The insurance company that carried the policy on the effected building brought suit. The court quoted general law “ a builder is charged with an ordinary duty of care to refrain from creating an imminently dangerous or Immanently defective condition, concealed from and unknown to subsequent users of the building.”

Specifically, the court found that the builder breached its duty of ordinary care by failing to erect and construct the building in conformity with the State Building Code, thereby violating the section of the code, which required the installation of the afor mentioned firestops. Furthermore the building code required that all buildings be constructed in a safe manner and for the intended use and occupancy.

The court found that the builder reasonably should have anticipated that an imminently dangerous condition or defective condition would have been created by failing to install fire resistant partitions with the required rating. The contractor can plead that it wasn’t in the specs and drawings but all he has to do is bring it to the architects attention and he is due an extra because it is required by the building code. The court held that it was still his responsibility as a builder to see to it that the firestop was installed.

In another court case an architect settled with an apartment complex for over $400k damages caused in a fire based on his failure to design the structure to include the required firestops. Then the architect sued the building departments for their negligence in inspecting the building and plan review. The court ruled the building departments were not liable. They did not cause the plans and construction to lack the required protection.

Even if the General contractor assigns the firestop to another contractor or list of contractors he is still responsible for the construction of the building and it is his ultimate responsibility to his customer to provide the building according to the applicable building codes.

Temperatures have been soaring this summer, which means air conditioning systems are working overtime trying to keep things cool and dry inside your home.

One common reason an air conditioning service technician is called to a job is because of condensate drain lines clogging. A/C drain lines clog due to thick mucus-like algae that grows inside the condensate drainage lines.

Over time, sludge forms in an air conditioner’s drain line and closes them up, not allowing condensate to drain. This happens because the normal current from condensate is not enough to flush the line. Tiny particles form along the bottom of the ‘P’ trap and in other parts of the drain line. These particles collect in one spot causing a clog. The water will then back up into the air conditioning drain pan. After the pan is full, water will overflow into the house. This is when most homeowners notice the problem.

Clearing the condensate drain line can be a messy job. One way to clear it is to cut the line near the air handler drain pan and blow out the line with a water hose or high pressure air hose. Another method is to use a wet/dry vacuum to suck out the clog; however this method requires an electrical outlet. A New product Mighty Pump™ is a lightweight but high powered pump that can vacuum or blow out a clog, is does not require any electricity. Simply attach the hose of the Mighty Pump to the A/C condensate drain line and pump the handle a few times to either vacuum or blow out a clog.

After the line is cleared, insert biocide tablets into the drip pan to prevent the growth of slime inside of your condensate line. This will prevent most blockages in air conditioning due to build up. Actabs™ Jr. is conveniently packed in bulk for treatments that last up to 3 months.

Wires are defined as insulated conductors used to carry electricity. Most commercial buildings have wires and cables running through walls and above suspended ceilings to provide basic electricity, telephone service, high-speed data and video connections, and operate building controls and security systems. Electricians need a way to run this wire and cable through walls and conduit.

For residential and light commercial work, most wires can be pulled manually. Power-pulling tools are however, needed for larger wire with long runs and multiple-cable installations. Long runs usually have multiple bends which make it almost impossible to pull manually.

A pulling tool’s basic components are its frame, power source, capstan that pulls rope and wire, and the mechanism that turns the capstan.

These components today are the same as those of the first power puller introduced by Ensley Tools in the 1960s, but improved technology has made today’s pullers more powerful, versatile, easier to use, and safer. The first pullers trend was bigger was better and stronger, but now the market is seeking smaller models. The user wants self-contained equipment, one machine that operates many functions to handle a wide range of jobs.

Light duty pullers are small, self-contained and can be carried by one person. These cover 80% of the pulls found in commercial building projects. When pulling the frame is attached to the conduit attached to the electrical panel box eliminating the need attach it to the floor.  Most have two pulling speeds: fast and slow (for heavy pulls). Large pullers generally need to be bolted to the floor.

Cable-puller capabilities are defined by pulling force, stated in pounds or kilonewtons (kN); pulling speed in feet or meters per minute; and rope strength, defined by average breaking strength.

Lubricants are an important part of the pulling process. Pulling lubricant is very important to reduce friction and minimize damage to the cable jacket. Lubricant decreases pulling time to complete the job.

To match cable puller and accessories to job requirements, contractors consider length of the pull, number of bends in the conduit, cable weight, and the amount of force necessary to complete the pull. It is necessary to know these variables to select the correct pulling rope.

There are many tools on the market with many different functions and accessories. RectorSeal® markets a4,000 lb. capacity lightweight cable puller called StrongArm™. It is incredibly strong, but is easy to set up and use. Designed for one man operation, it sets up and locks into position in 60 seconds. A swivel head easily switches from underground to overhead pulls. The StrongArm™ has two pulling speeds: 80ft./min. or 20ft./min. and is operated with an easy to use foot pedal. It folds for easy handling and storage.

Safety is an important consideration when evaluating pullers.

Sewer backups can cause costly repairs not to mention the messy cleanup. Most basements are susceptible to this type of flooding because they are below ground level. Sewer lines backup from clogs caused by excessive grease, waste, tree roots or breaks in the sewer line. When the sewer line backs up, it comes through floor drains and toilets at the lowest point in your home or business. Your home or building may be susceptible to sewage backups if the lowest drain is less than 24” above the nearest upstream manhole. When the pipes are filled the water has to flow backwards therefore entering the home or business.

Homeowners are responsible for the sewer lines connected from their home to the main sewer line. The city is responsible for backups caused by structural defects such as cracked pipe and blockages located in the right-of-way. Most blockages are the homeowner’s responsibility.

One way to prevent sewage backup into your home or business is to install a “back-flow valve” on the lowest drain or ground line. This is the best protection against sewer backups.

A “back-flow valve” is required by IPC and UPC plumbing codes, as well as by many state and local plumbing codes, when the cover of the nearest upstream manhole is above the flood rim of the lowest fixture in the building.

A “back-flow valve” is a mechanism that prevents sewer backups by providing a physical barrier to sewerage backflow. A “back-flow valve” is designed most commonly with a flapper that swings open to allow flow through the line exiting your home but closes to form a tight seal in the event of back up by preventing wastewater from flowing in the opposite direction and entering the home. If a clog occurs the backflow valve will stop the sewage from entering your home.

Ask any tradesman and they will probably tell you that the simplest jobs can sometimes be the most difficult if you don’t have the right tools.

Take for example, a service plumber or a maintenance contractor that gets a call because of a broken off shower arm that needs repair at a residence, a student dormitory or maybe a hospital facility.  The threaded shower arm is broken off in the threaded fitting and is behind the tile wall making it impossible to get to without having to bust out the shower tiles and sheet rock in the process.  What will he do? How about a mechanical or heating contractor that is on a job and needs to remove an old short length (close) nipple from an existing threaded connection and replace it with a new chrome or brass finish nipple. He puts his wrench around the old nipple to remove it, applies pressure and the nipple breaks off inside the fitting. Now what?  Better yet, once removed, how will he install the new decorative chrome nipple without marring the finish?

This is an ongoing problem that most repair and maintenance contractor’s face when working with small diameter threaded nipples and shower arms that eventually need repair or replacement. Some contractors will take a chisel and hammer and tap the broken nipple out of the fitting if they can even get to it. The time consuming and expensive method of busting out tile and sheetrock just to get to the problem still exists. There are “extractors” on the market that will help remove old threaded nipples and shower arms and there are “strap wrenches” and traditional wrenches that are used to install new ones, but they both fall short. It still takes two tools to do one job.

FIRESTOP APPLICATIONS

Installation is the final chapter for firestopping. Once installed, the firestop material must stay in place until it is needed to perform its function. Providing passive fire protection and life safety is possible only if the firestop material is installed correctly. Remember that the material itself has no real rating—only the tested system provides safety. For instance, a plumbing contractor who is installing supply and wastewater systems on a project will make holes through fire-resistance rated assemblies, run the necessary piping through the penetrations, and then close the holes with the appropriate firestop system. This process involves understanding what the building code requires, knowing the rating of the assembly, and selecting the appropriate tested and listed firestop system to install in conjunction with the correct material required by that system.

Although in many cases firestopping systems are installed by the contractor who is performing the actual work, it is possible for many different types of contractors to install a firestop. It is fairly common for general contractors to take on the responsibility for installing the firestop, and sometimes projects require all of the firestop to be installed by a single contractor or even by a specialty contractor whose primary business is firestop installation. A contractor installing firestop must select products that are appropriate to the specific application. Many different types of firestopping materials and products are available today. Understanding that no universal product will work for every firestop application is the first step to selecting the right product. While some fairly general statements can be made about firestop materials and their appropriate uses, keep in mind that every tested system is manufacturer or product specific. One product cannot be interchanged with another firestop manufacturer’s material.

  Intumescent Materials

Intumescent refers to a material that expands when exposed to sufficient heat. A good way to describe this action is to consider black snake fireworks. When ignited, black snakes continuously create ashes that look like snakes due to intumescent reaction.

Intumescent firestop materials are one of the primary groups of products utilized in applications where one of the components in the assembly will deteriorate or burn away during fire exposure. The intumescent activity of the firestop closes the void that is created when the item melts or burns away, thus maintaining the integrity of the rate assembly. Intumescent firestop materials can come in many forms, from caulks to metallic collars with intumescent strip linings, with each product being designed for a specific purpose.

  Sealants

Simple mastics or sealants commonly are used to seal penetration firestopping as well as construction joint firestop applications. These sealants are available in various forms and chemical formulations, but the one thing they all have in common is that their performance is solely dependant on the system in which they are tested.

Firestop sealants in caulk, self-leveling, and spray grade are readily available in silicone, latex, and solvent-based products. They often require the addition of a backing material in the system for support. Sealants are probably the most recognized group of firestop products as firestop caulk is common to most construction projects because of its numerous applications.

Firestop Devices

Another common product group is firestop devices, which range from simple collars to more complex sleeves and cast-in-place devices that are stand-alone firestop products.

A firestop collar or pipe collar usually consists of a metallic ring with an intumescent strip applied to the interior circumference of the metal housing. The collar is placed around a penetrating item, usually a non-metallic pipe, and permanently affixed to the fire-rated assembly. Firestop intumescent sleeves are metallic sheets with intumescent material adhered to one side. These sleeves can be placed around penetrating items and inserted into the wall to provide passive fire protection. One of the benefits of this type of device is that it allows for protection where collars cannot, such as when a penetration is at an angle. A cast-in-place firestop device usually has a plastic outer housing similar to a concrete sleeve with the addition of intumescent material affixed to the interior of the sleeve. These devices are attached to the form decking of poured in-place concrete structures prior to the concrete floor being poured.

For More Information

There are numerous types of firestop products and even more firestop applications in the ever-changing world of commercial construction. The best place to find in-depth information about products is the firestop manufacturers’ websites.

When you utilize tested applications and correctly install the firestop product, you ensure life safety for the people occupying the building.

CODE REQUIREMENTS

Requirements for firestopping in building codes date to before the development of the International Building Code (IBC), which most states and local authorities follow today.

Although the IBC has gone through significant changes since its advent and not all types of construction require firestopping or fire-rated assemblies, one item that has stayed constant is that firestopping is required if a fire resistance-rated assembly is penetrated. IBC Chapter 7, “Fire and Smoke Protection Features,” outlines the requirements for fire resistance-rated assemblies and passive fire protection including firestopping for the various construction types. The sections in Chapter 7 provide detailed information on the minimum requirements for fire and smoke protection. (It is important to note that the IBC varies in content and requirements from version to version. The International Code Council, which develops the IBC, currently maintains a code-development cycle of three years. Because of the gap between code development and jurisdictional code adoption, the requirements will vary from state to state. Although the 2009 IBC is now available, some states are still using the 2003 or 2006 versions.)

The 2009 International Building Code provides requirements for firestopping in Sections 713 and 714, but in previous versions firestopping was located in Sections 712 and 713. The protection of penetrations of horizontal assemblies and fire resistance-rated wall assemblies is described in Section 713. Section 714 governs joints installed in or between fire resistance-rated assemblies and requires an approved fire resistance-rated system to be installed. The code requirements for firestop and smoke stop installations provide protection of the structure, and they also help maintain a minimum degree of protection for occupants who live or work in a structure and for fire safety personnel who must enter the building if a fire occurs.

Penetrations

A closer look at IBC (2009) Section 713 shows exactly what is required for protection when fire-resistant assemblies are penetrated. Section 713.3.1.2 states that through penetrations shall be installed and protected with an approved firestop system tested to ASTM E814 or UL 1479. The section also states that the fire-resistance rating of the firestop system (F rating) must be at least equal to the fire-resistance rating of the assembly penetrated. In Section 713.4.1.1.2, the code goes further to state that through penetrations of fire resistance-rated floors must have F and T ratings of at least one hour, but not less than the fire resistance rating of the floor penetrated. The code contains an exception for the T rating if the penetrating item is concealed in a wall cavity. However, when selecting systems for floor penetrations, it is necessary to find an approved firestop system that satisfies the F rating as well as the T rating when both are required.

Smoke Barriers

Section 710 in the 2009 IBC explains the protection requirements for smoke barriers in construction. It seems simple enough that a smoke barrier just needs to stop smoke, correct? Unfortunately, life is never that simple and neither is the building code. Smoke barriers are required to restrict the movement of smoke by definition, but when you look more closely you will see that Section 710.3 requires smoke barriers to also maintain a one-hour fire-resistance rating. Thus, if the smoke barrier assemblies must have a minimum one hour fire-resistance rating and must stop the movement of smoke, then what are the requirements for penetrations? All penetrations through smoke barrier assemblies must comply with Section 713, which, as mentioned, governs all firestopping for penetrations in the IBC. All penetrations in smoke barriers must be firestopped, but they also must stop smoke, which means that they need to have an L rating. Section 713.5 states that penetrations of smoke barriers must be tested to UL 1479 air-leakage testing and maintain an L rating of no more than 5 cubic feet per minute per square foot or 50 cubic feet per minute per any 100 square feet.

Understanding the specific requirements for construction that are prescribed in the building code is an elemental part of the construction process. Codes dictating passive fire protection ensure a minimum standard for passive life safety and property protection. The building codes are effective only when properly followed and enforced. No one wishes to be trapped in a burning building that was not firestopped to code. Maintaining minimum safety standards is what the building codes do for all of us.