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The Lock Maze is a fun and infuriating bondage game.   I have played this game for years and enjoy it immensely.

Warning: This game is only for people who are willing to pay attention to details.

Before you start, you’ll need:

Padlocks for the Lock Maze - Lots of padlocks that look alike but are keyed differently. Not only must the padlocks look identical but their keys must have a hole large enough so that they may be locked on the shackle of the lock itself. My experience is that six to eight locks is enough for most scenarios.

Lockable bondage gear – gags, hoods, cuffs, etc. as you prefer

Other Padlocks - More locks and keys apart from the Lock Maze for use on your lockable bondage gear

A Lockbox - A padlock-able room, toolbox or other lockable box to put the keys to the Other Padlocks

Overview

The basic idea of the Lock Maze is to mix around the key/lock pairs, then lock each padlock with another lock’s key attached to a different place in your room, house or yard. One key and one padlock is left over. The extra key starts you off on your search through the Lock Maze and the extra padlock locks the final “treasure chest” containing keys to any handcuffs, gags, etc. that the player might be wearing during the game.  

Once the game is set up, the bound player must travel to and retrieve the first key and try it in one lock after another until one of them opens, yielding a second key. That new key must then be tried in the remaining locks to find the next match and so on until the final lock is reached yielding the keys to the the bondage gear.  

Sounds simple, doesn’t it?  The rest of this article gives step by step instructions.  Follow them closely and you can’t go wrong…

Step by Step

Step 1: Buy a bunch of identical looking but differently keyed padlocks.  They must look identical but the key to each lock must be unique.  Buy good quality locks so you can trust them.  Buy a lock with a big enough shackle so it can be locked in a variety of places are your place space.  (Short pieces of chain also work nicely for attaching the locks to different places.)  How many padlocks should you buy?  Six or eight is a good number.

Step 2: Line up the locks in a row opposite their two matching keys.  Take one key from each lock and save it on your emergency backup key ring.  If this is to be a self-bondage game, put your emergency backup key ring in a place where you will be able to get to it but not easily.  Suspending it from a block of ice is a good idea as is putting it in the mailbox in front of your house.  Any other duplicate keys to be used in the game should be placed in this key ring as well.

Step 3: Place the keys to your other locks in your lockbox.  These are the keys to the locks that will be used on your bondage equipment.  The lockbox will be locked using the last padlock in your Lock Maze.

Step 4: You now should have a row of locks and a row of keys across from them.  

Make double sure that the keys match the locks.  

Step 5: Now carefully SHIFT the row of locks so that lock 1 is now across from key 2, lock 2 across from key 3 and so on.  

This will leave you with a lone key at one end and a lone lock at the other.  

Step 6: The lone padlock locks up any other keys to be used on the bondage equipment into the lockbox.   Lock this lone padlock on your lockbox now. 

Step 7: The extra key on the other end of the row will be the start of your maze. For example, suppose you are going to build the lock maze using an entire house.  You will start the game by placing handcuffs, anklecuffs, etc., in a room at one end of the house, and place this extra key at the other end to create an “initial goal.”

Step 8: Once the extra lock and extra key are taken care of, we once again have a row of locks across from a row of (non-matching) keys.  They match the next padlock over from them.  Place the key on the shackle of its (associated, non-matching) lock.

Step 9: Mix the lock-key pairs around until you can no longer remember their original sequence.  (Don’t worry too much if you mess this part up.  This worse that will happen is that you create a short cut in the maze and your adventure will end sooner than you had expected.)

Step 10: Place the lock/key pairs around your play space.  Attach each to a different place in the play space.  Be sure to lock each corresponding key on the shackle of its lock.  In your house or apartment, you can attach locks to handles of furniture, cabinets, anywhere the lock will lock.  Short pieces of chain give you more options for where to attach the locks.  Be sure to place some distance between the locks so that the player will have a way to travel.

For the truly adventurous, keys can be placed outdoors but consider the risk!

Note: If you’re using more than six locks, you may want to draw a map to remember where all the locks were placed.

This gave me an idea.

A subject is restrained in a manner similar to this, however the levers and cogs are connected to various devices, so when legs or arms (or even neck) are moved these devices do something, such as:

inflate/deflate a butt plug

thrust a dildo into a front, back or top cunt

spread/close butt cheeks

press drawing pins into the flesh

widen a ring gag

tighten/loosen nipple clamps

increase/decrease electrical pulses

This is a repost from @cuckoldhusbandobediencetraining without the banned photos.

After a number of years keeping my husband in permanent chastity I have reached the conclusion best results can be achieved when my husband’s chastity cycle is designed to coincide with my menstrual cycle. Why I didn’t figure this out earlier god only knows - it’s a complete revelation and has significantly improved our relationship for the better.

I allow my husbands full release - i.e. orgasm ( and therefore start of a new cycle for him) to occur at day 24 of my menstrual cycle. During day 24 to 28 of my cycle, in the days before my period, I feel least like sex and my husbands whining is most likely to annoy me.

Between day 24 to 28 of my cycle ( Day 1-4 of his ) I allow him to cum as much as he likes, in fact i demand it. Whilst it might seem counter-intuitive in a female led relationship, ideally your husband should be cumming at least 5 times a day during this period. He will find this hard at the start. He will not be used to cumming without your permission, he will be low on sexual energy after his 28 day orgasm and you will have to be strict with him to make sure that he hits his daily 5 cums a day target. He has had the belt from me a number of times over the last 6 months for failure to do so.  This is the only time that i don’t expect my husband to eat his cum for me, although you can still demand this if you wish. You can supervise his masturbation or just get him to come and show you the proof that he has ejaculated - A humiliating idea is to buy him a little bowl that he has to cum in or alternatively make him cum in a condom. What is important is that you give his balls a good work out.

You want to kick start them into sperm production overload, so that when you finally lock him up on day 5 of his cycle ( day one of my menstrual cycle ) he will quickly reach his POMCI ( period of maximum courtship investment.) - There is a good article explaining this on the dreamloverlabs.com site.

POMCI is the point of maximum obedience, the point where your male is most sexually frustrated and most willing to serve. Once this point has been reached, provided you maintain a daily tease and denial session, there is no significant drop off and his level of sexual frustration will be maintained until to the point of his next full orgasm. Day 5 ( lock up day ) will be particularly frustrating for your male. As he has cum so much in days 1-4 his dopamine levels will be very low and his prolactin levels high. Consequently he is likely to resist to wanting to go back into chastity. A good way around this is to make him wear a set on handcuffs on one wrist during an extended tease and denial session at the start of day 5 before lock up. When you have finished tell him to put his chastity cuff on. Until the chastity device goes on the cuffs don’t come off - a very simple an effective technique to getting his compliance and getting his penis safely locked up.

Most males will reach their POMCI point within 9 -12 days of being denied an orgasm. Through my technique of forced masturbation and ejaculation during days 1-4 of his cycle I have managed to cut my husbands POMCI point down to 8 days after lock-up, so he reaches this point around day 12 of his cycle.

My period has normally finished by day 6 of my cycle and i am ready to have him  start to provide me with oral service. Day 6 of my cycle is day 10 of his so by this point he is more than eager to “be a good boy” and provide me all the service I require.

I normally feel horniest during days 8 -16 of my cycle and then there is a slow tail off until around day 20 when I start to prepare for my next period and my desire for sex is low.

Let’s compare this to his cycle. Day 8 of my cycle is day 12 of his, so marvellously my desire for sex directly coincides with his POMCI point or the point of his maximum sexual frustration and willingness to serve. I then have 12 days ( days 8 - 20 of my cycle ) of an obedient, sexually compliant male giving me all the sex i crave with out complaint and additionally a male who is willing to do all the household chores that I give him.

Normally around day 14 of his cycle I will give him a prostate milking with an Aneros prostate massager ( there are lots of articles around detailing how you can do this this - Lady Lubyanka’s technique is the best on the web IMO.) If you do this properly you will clean his pipes without reducing any of his sexual frustration or desire to serve. You must absolutely ensure that you only milk him rather than allow him to cum. If you always insist on your hubby eating his cum as I do apart from during day 1-4 of his cycle ( although I sometimes do that as well LOL ) you will be able tell if his has cum i.e. had a full orgasm. Milked husbands and boyfriends eat up all their cum without any complaint, whilst males who have cum will often resist.

This will take him through to day 28 of his cycle, day 24 of mine and a full release. I always try to make his release session nice and humiliating for him - After all he’s earned it. A good pegging session followed by flipping his legs above his head and jerking 28 days worth of frustration on his face normally does the trick.

To feel content, a human pet needs a consistent level of control and love from its owner. I like to use a balance of both mental and physical bondage while he is in service to me.

The more physically free he is, the stricter my rules and protocol will be creating mental bondage, and forcing him to constantly police his own actions to stay out of trouble. I also tend to ration the amount of loving attention I give him while free (quick pecks on the cheek instead of passionate kisses) and he never gets to orgasm or sexually serve me under these conditions.

The more physically controlled he is, the more the rules and protocols relax and I shower him with more loving attention, even babying him at times while helpless. In this way, amazingly, I have conditioned him to love being bound helpless and now he wouldn’t dream of refusing my restraints. He is quite happy being locked up as he knows sexy time (whether he is pleasuring me or I allow him an orgasm) between us only happens while he is helplessly restrained.

No Restraint

For instance, if he is at home unencumbered by any restraints, he is forbidden to leave the yard without my permission. My pet isn’t allowed eye contact with me, to kiss me, or to touch me above the ankle without permission or command to do so.  When I touch him or kiss him, he must remain totally passive. I expect a high level of obedience and punishment is much easier for him to earn. If he isn’t actively doing something for me, I will sometimes randomly give him corner time or force him to remain silent and crawling on all fours. These are a couple of my favorite ways to use mental bondage to control him.

If his chastity device is removed while unrestrained, he isn’t allowed to see me undressed or touch me at all. This is exceedingly rare, as I normally restrain him before the device is unlocked and removed, to ensure that he cannot touch his bare penis. I always accompany him during doctor’s appointments to ensure his hands stay away from his crotch.

Moderate Restraint

If he is moderately restrained, such as being fettered, ball and chained, or leashed to something, he may look at me freely but if we make eye contact, he must lower his gaze in submission immediately, and then slowly look back up at me. He may kiss me and touch me, but not in an overtly sexual way. I pay more attention to him, teasing, denying, and kissing him a lot more, but never give him total access to me.

High Level Restraint

In contrast, while he is kept physically restrained and fairly helpless, the touching rules are relaxed.For instance, when his fist mitts and tack booties are locked on and he can only crawl, he is free to look at me without restriction and touch me as much as he likes while being so physically helpless. He can crawl right up and bury his nose in my crotch, and suckle my breasts without fear of punishment.If he manages to get me revved up, I will spread my legs and let him pleasure me with his tongue or strap on head harness. If I don’t want his attentions, I can easily push him away, step on his head and pin him down under foot, or lock his deprivation hood on. If I’m in the mood and his chastity sentence is complete, he may even get some sexual relief himself.