SHARED HISTORIES OF BIRYANI!
Last week my friend and I hosted a dinner where we cooked Biryani and Persian salad. We followed the usual recipe of first marinating our meat in yogurt, ginger, garlic and salt. We then proceeded to caramelize our onions and cook our meat with whole spices. We then moved onto partially cook the rice and layer it with meat, saffron, walnuts and the caramelized onions. For the Shirazi salad, we finely shopped cucumbers, tomatoes (remembering to remove the seeds!), onions, mint, parsley, and dressed it with olive oil, salt, and lemon juice. The fresh salad, along with the fragrant biryani made a wonderful dinner that we could share with our friends.Ā
This also provided an opportunity to interrogate the shared histories of biryani between Iran and India. According to the food historian, Salma Hussain, biryani was bororwed from Iran and brought to South Asia with the Mughals. Apparently, the etymology of ābiryaniā can be traced to the Persian words ābirinj biryaniā or fried rice. In both Iran and South Asia, a similar method of slow cooking marinated meat and rice is followed while the street food version of biryani in Iran has replaced rice with thin breads. Other historians argue that it could have pre-dated the Mughals and arrived with Arab traders in eighth century. Regardless of the ātrueā origins, these shared ways of making and enjoying foods helps us look beyond national borders to appreciate our commonalities!Ā
References:
Biriyani is the quintessential celebratory dish in India that dazzles as a sublime one-dish meal, writes historian and food expert Pushpesh
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