I Thought You Said You Knew Where We Were Going

Monte Carlo. Lunch stop. I have genuinely never even imagined a super-yacht with a helicopter on it, and room for two speedboats in the bottom. You can imagine the conversations that we had after seeing this....thing...over sandwiches and cola. As I said at the time, I am both repulsed and aroused, disgusted and attracted. A juxtaposition of emotions inspiring fierce battles within my mind. My soul. I came close to a deadly sin there, I tell ya. But as I've never been to a super-rich tax haven playground, it was rather exciting to be there, and indeed to see with my own eyes not just one super-yacht (tho only one had the helicopter) but many. Taunting me. Which I must not rise to. Also, I mostly recognised this strangely nature-free miniplace from years of watching other people play Grand Prix on PSX. Nice sandwich.

Genova. The end of the road for the day: what a spectacular day! Up the SS1 along the Italia Riviera. Spectacular. Have you SEEN the colour of that water?! No, I didn't take any pics. I was watching. And here's the view from the hermitage where we stayed, and the 145 steps to dinner (and from dinner), which was muchly enjoyed at 23 Febarrio, a local family & pet friendly pizza joint. Eschewed the local delicacy (focaccia al fromaggio - I.e. Pizza crust stuffed w cheese) for a traditional Marguerita. A fitting finale to our Italian journey. Particularly as Genoa was playing Fiorentina whole we were eating. We rounded out dessert, at 2-2, with the focaccia-based tiramisu al zainese. No, really. Damn good.

We're on our way out of the renaissance and into the fin de siècle by way of Genova, Aix en Provence and a gypsy caravan in Burgundy. Our chariot is packed to the gills (well done Ben) and spartapuss is in his new urban tote. To the sea!

They're getting along just fine.

I'm getting *really* good at making polenta.

We eschewed dessert. 

I felt at times like I was in the middle of a Fellini film.

First stop, Livorno. Meh. Next, Viareggio. We agreed we could live in the latter, with its art deco architecture along the waterfront. Reminded me of Worthing, but with more life.

Tuscan truffle holiday (Part 1) with Amber & Kay (before the others descended!)

First meal around the table at Doderi Alta, at Barbialla Nuova, San Miniato. With Amber & Kay.

I collected Francesca at mile 3 on today's 15 miler marathon training. I know her from HSR, the lovely sound studio where I've been recording BBC's Digital Human. She's a born and bred North Florentine, currently living in the house where she was, effectively, born. She took me on a 7 mile hilly run through the gorgeous Tuscan countryside, correcting my terrible Italian (I NEED MORE WORDS), while we made plans to do a language exchange and to go dancing. Post-run dinner is truffle polenta with fresh porcini (Ah, plump fungi! You hold such promise but are so inevitably wormy!), kale and local sausage. I cheated on this one and went to the massive UniCOOP. Single dog parenting (Ben is in London for work) makes a trip to Sant'Ambrogio challenging. Edwin, whom we feed profoundly, looks hungry.

Next: Italian-language Italian Desserts on Monday. Bring it.

Liver wrapped in stomach fat. With salt, pepper, garlic and fennel. #stuffwegetatthemarket

Wot Ben did with the chanterelles (notice a theme here?). And Spartapuss' first interaction with a chunk of Gran Padano.

Starting to build up a routine. Beginning to comparison shop too. Yeah, seen those chanterelles? Slow food market shopping is a revelation. And we're being rewarded with our shop local card. Used it at the butcher's, to buy the pasta and the cheese and at the hardware store next to the market. Win.

One of the results of the last haul.

Continuing the winning at Sant'Ambrogio.