Hyper_Sock

Despite the “70% - 100% cotton fabric,” at the bottom, I received this as a birthday gift a month ago, and decided to give it a go anyway. The ironing went well when I followed the instructions. I can only hope it’ll stay nicely. As for the dye job, I used a black Rit dye.

I believe the transfer paper costed under 20 dollars, but close.

This lovely Mii was my first. He was originally MJesse from Minecraft: Story Mode, but I wasn’t happy with the way I drew his design, and I wanted to make my OCs first, and introduce other fandoms once I acquired the game copy. This is Clint! Before I knew the copy/paste existed in the face paint menu, I just copied it to the other side pixel by pixel….whoops. Took me a while, but I drew in part of the stache, the guy-liner, and the eyebrow piercing.

The lovely little guy in the background is Jann.(pronounced, “yawn,” give or take.) He was the second Mii on Ambrose Island.

He has the eyes of a sad hamster

He’s got many freckles, also drawn with the face paint tool. (My beloved)

I edited Jesse to be Clint after I made Jann. I gave Jesse a random base age of 24, to go edit later, and Jann, is somewhere in his early to mid-thirties. After I realized that Clint still had Jesse’s age, and I thus, switched him to be older, and closer in age to Jann, they got along much better! Age definitely does have a say in Mii relationships, I think.

I’m still developing these OCs, but this is larger than life for me. I love the nicknames, and goofy poses and interactions—so happy that the game will be coming in soon.

Also, the abilities we have for pronouns, gender, clothing, relationships, so on, so forth, are so awesome and I know I’ll find them to be super useful.

Alrighty! My third and final Mii of my first demo experience—(mostly)Lore-accurate Hugh Morris!

For most of the creation, I used a tutorial online, which took a little while, but I also added a little flair of my own! (Eyelashes, and the yellorange detailing under the eyes.) Yes, he is tall. Both height and width are the max amounts possible.

I was majorly inspired by I Want Things to Be Beautiful by Devi McCallion, and thus, listened to it for over four hours while drawing this.

I’m totally open to criticism and art tips as well! I draw exclusively traditionally—hopefully will learn a few digital tips and tricks soon.

And, additionally, since it’s a weird thing that I have to specify??

I do not support or advocate for Spawnism, harmful cults, or anything similar.

ദ്ദി˙ ᴗ ˙ )

Hope you enjoy

(All credits go to me, even lighting and hand reference, apart from the lower left drawing, and the Nightshade flower (Google))

^Petra’s size is due to a misprint. I am also planning on reworking Axel’s sizing, as he is also smaller than is game-accurate. All damages in the photo are due to both me and my niece. This tutorial does not include 3D detailing, like hair, that might be included in the skin models, which might lead to the characters looking “off,” or not pinpoint accurate.

Beware, this post is a long, detailed tutorial. Part of the reason for its length is because I included numbered step, photos, and a video for ye visual learners. (You’re welcome) Be not daunted by the amount of steps! Once you have it down, it’s super easy and fun. I apologize for the lateness of the post, but I hope you enjoy!

💯Needed materials: Access to a printer, paper, scissors, Access to a hot glue gun, (Or other glue, like a glue stick, perhaps double-sided tape, etc.), and patience.

Finally, the step-by-step!

First off, if you’re making a Minecraft: Story mode character, you’ll want to make a PlanetMinecraft account. Navigating your way to the search feature, “GaryTheCreator” makes the most accurate-to-canon replicas, for the Bedrock version of Minecraft, of the ENTIRE cast. (This includes every Jesse variant, and characters from both seasons!)

Now, there IS a “Papercraft It” option included in PlanetMinecraft, however, it is still very, very buggy, and I have always used a separate website. For now, download the skinseed of whatever Minecraft skin you’d like to turn into a figurine.

Step Two: Now that you have your Minecraft skin downloaded, you’ll want to go to PixelPaperCraft.com, for the template.

^Expand the highlighted menu in the top right corner, and go into “generators.” The first option to show will be “Minecraft character.” This is the one we’re using.

(3)There, you’ll insert the Minecraft skinseed photo or file dowloaded, and below, the papercraft template is generated! For all of the MCSM characters I’ve made, I use the Steve preset, as that is the body type used by the skin creator. (The exception to this is Radar, because his arms are skinnier in-game, thus, he has the Alex body type.) No matter what skin you use, be aware of the different body types, and match the template settings. For easier assembly, keep “show folds,” and “show labels” toggled on.

(4)Now you should have your papercraft template downloaded or screenshotted! I always crop out the copyrights at the bottom of the page, so that the actual character pieces are printed out larger. The obvious next step is to print out the template.

(5)Now, the cutting, folding, gluing, and assembly may come easily to some, but if not you: never fear! I am overly inclusive of every step of the process, and from this point forward, will be a photo/video guide of what to do with your newly printed template! I hope the tutorial has been easy to follow thus far, and if this is where you’ll be leaving to DIY for yourself, happy crafting, and stay safe! :D

TW: Sharp object, (Scissors) Glue gun, Hands

(Take care of yourself, anonymous crafter—please don’t continue if these could be dangerous triggers for you.)

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(1)Base template! Roughly cut out the shapes. Proper credits and a drawing of my own are included. (The skin is accidentally drawn too dark, because my lighter marker colours looked orange. Whoops.)

(2)Cut around the whole piece’s area in big cuts, leaving the triangles between the folds until after you have the rough area cut out. Use the sharper, inner part of the scissors’ blades, closer to the handles, (as in the above photo) to avoid making blind cuts, or bending the paper with the duller outer part of the blades.

(3)^Fully cut out template pieces! Now onto the folding. If you’ve kept “show folds” toggled on when making the template, both the white tabs and coloured folds have a serrated edge/dotted line where you fold. Having a lamp helps out with seeing them more than you might think! (Featuring Lukas for better visibility)

This is what the finished folding process should look like. Keeping your folds flush with each other makes for a smoother finish. Since I am a perfectionist about this, this step takes me the longest.

Folding the tabs back out after makes for an easier gluing process, especially with hot glue, which cools off quickly. Make sure that you’ve folded all the coloured parts before you glue!

____________________disclaimer__________________

This video has a lot of cuts. There are a few louder sounds when I set the glue gun on the desk. There is no audio other than the materials. The video is sped up, for length purposes, and because it feels like watching paint dry otherwise. The length of the video is. 3:28

Apologies for the bad angles! I’m very new to recording like this. (Obviously, since I kept sticking my fat fingers in the camera, smh.)I’m not super happy with the way it turned out, simply because I had to cut SO MUCH for Tumblr to allow it (because of the size of the post itself.) Part of the cut footage was the actual assembly of the pieces, which I find to be the easiest.

I hope the video is informative, though watching it is completely optional to understanding the process. More gluing info is under the video, as with the photo steps. 🙂‍↕️

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(4) The gluing. This is the biggest step. I’m sure you could use a gluestick instead of hot glue if it isn’t available, but I will test it out soon and comment the results under this post, just to make sure.

To make sure the character can stand, test the legs on their own. Gluing the legs together is easier and turns out better. If they can’t stand on their feet, you could always put them on their head. It’s a learning process, and not all of mine can stand.

(I use the tip of the hot glue gun to fold the tabs in om each other. It makes gluing the arms and legs much faster and easier.)

❗️

GLUE GUN SAFETY.

I feel the need to reiterate some basic hot glue gun safety rules, not only because I am directing the use of this tool, but also because of my own experiences with burns. I have a permanent scar on the back of my hand that resembles a cigarette burn. I was using a high heat setting, which I have since found to be dangerous and unnecessary. — I advise against using such a setting for this craft.

Please do not leave glue guns unattended. They propose risks around children, pets, and even possible electrical dangers. Be aware of the tip of the glue gun—it is metal and will get very hot, which can burn you, unapologetically. Do not wipe excess glue away with your fingers like I did in the video, unless you are certain that you will not be harmed. Always unplug, and let your glue gun cool before storing it.

If you’re using a hot glue gun with multiple heat settings, keep it on low, and give it an extra minute to heat up. Higher heat creates a higher risk of glue burning you.

This should conclude the tutorial!

I sincerely apologize about the lateness. I planned on adding a footnote or so explaining some of the reason I got so busy, and some of the technical errors I had, (I had many) but it might as well be a separate post.