Surfed at Rock Quarry beach today with all my homies in Kilauea, by all my homies I mean the local guys who don't really say much in the lineup, you guys who's names i don't know, but we exchange awkward glances, partly my fault i admit, but we're all to blame. Found mostly 6-8 ft waves today solid wave, choppy at times. Tons of current sucking you out, pretty much have to lay prone and paddle for your place all day, Some locals just cut the line all day, once they realize how garbage most everyone out there is. 50% of the time it's pure luck if any of the haoles get up on a wave for me it's like 20% of the time, but I only committed to two waves today and road each of them, no wipeouts. Maybe i needed to have more, but there were a lot of people out to navigate.
The waves were big, they would come in at like 8ft-10ft and then bottom out to about 6ft, but still charge ahead all the way to the beach, if you wanted. Some folks were having some fun rides, cutbacks, all that. There were 4 young dudes, 4 my age dudes and eventually 4 older dudes. One haole had this long straight blond hair, but he had a super smooth ride, effortless style, props! I'd never seen the guy before, but I'd say his board was like a 6'3 and really narrow. The local dude with a red board was shredding it up as usual, he just tears it up, all conditions. I see him out at Hanalei on a shitty choppy day and he just carves out his own territory and puts up a shred show for all to see. We're all sitting in a pack 25 yards away hoping for the wave of our dreams or some crap and he's like well, I'll sit inside and pop up in the pocket like clockwork everytime. Love that guy. Hate him too he's a dick. His style is rough, but consistent. He shreds, but they're not pretty lines. I think that's probably his best element. Because watching perfect cutbacks isn't my cup of tea. I prefer watching takeoffs, barrels, and cutbacks only for technique, otherwise no thanks. This bull rides a locally shaped board, it's red with some lime green logo. My guess is his boards a 6'4 x 21 x 2 3/4". It's convex, not to much, but it has that glare, it's a big board, but he's not too skinny either so maybe it suits him. When I get on those big boards it feels like a floatation device. I suck at duck diving with it.
Well I'll guess I'll have to take out my old big 6'5 beast and practice duck diving the shit out of that board a la JJF, since i've never seen such a swanky duck dive trick in my life, but holy shit i'm going to do that from now on. Did it a little better today, but probably could have gotten out of one dudes way a little bit better by doing a duck dive, but honestly he could have angled his board in the direction he was going a bit better. Not straight into my face, I rolled left at the last second and showed him my fins :P. SOLVS fins biatch.
it was tough. but i enjoyed the challenge as long as I can come home to report on it, that's good for me. Was definitely wondering if there was a sharky eyeing my legs today after that awful news out of Australia this week. Two bulls got knipped one dead, one on the leg. FKN A! A blokes trying to surf. sheesh.