Visiting Family in Montpellier, Languedoc Days 0.5 and 1 - Fragmented Dreams of Octopus Pie Travelling to France yesterday evening was really successful. The flight ran smoothly although I was a bit pissed off that the WH Smiths in Leeds Bradford Airport stocked neither the Fortean Times nor Tabletop Gaming and the beer at the bar tasted a bit shit. On the plane we ended up sat next to a lovely French lady from Montpellier who Jules spent a bit of time talking to about the latest Bill Bryson book and no one threatened to murder me over my über cough so all was good. Arriving at Montpellier, Hilary met us outside the airport and the oppressive heat hit us immediately (which is currently rocking at around 38°). We arrived back at her house and said our hellos before sitting down to a meal which involved a lovely goats cheese and tomato puff pastry crown with goose gizzard salad followed by an apricot tart. We also opened some Munster cheese, which was surprisingly mellow compared to its savage smell. The night ended with a bit of a bang as I realised that I'd forgotten to pack my medication and went into a total panic. Anyway, I spent the night having coughing fits and mild panic attacks but did manage to read half a book on escaping a worker camp in North Korea. It was during my broken sleep that my mind started to focus on the tielle, a Sétoise octopus pie which I love and crave. Jules had shut the shutters in the bedroom so the room was in complete darkness and this made me doubt my phone clock showing 10:30. Alas, it was the truth and I'd slept in! Awakening over a period of an hour, I'd come around and exhaled enough mucus (sorry!) so that I could face the day. I explained the ordeal of the medication to the rest of the family and Hilary made a doctors appointment which seemed really promising though thoroughly terrifying as my French language skills are particularly crap. For lunch we had (surprise, surprise) some tielles with a heritage tomato salad. Now, tielles (we've finally got to the point of this post after four paragraphs!!!!) are the epitome of southern French cuisine for me as they practically emit the sun through rays of fishy, tangy and ever so slightly spicy flavours. Through mouthfuls of pie, I extolled their amazing way of forcing me to reminisce my first experience of seafood spaghetti (Angelo's in Preston, if I remember correctly) which probably didn't taste anything like a tielle but I imagine that it did. A tielle is a pie from the port of Sète which has bright orange pasty due to the ruddy filling of octopus and tomato. Its origins are Italian but it has a distinctively French taste and, if you couldn't work out, I absolutely love it. People tend to baulk at the very thought of eating octopus or squid and statements regarding the 'rubbery' texture it has are accompanied by looks of disgust. I find that the taste of cephalopods (check me out!) is really mild and it meets the cheesy description of tasting like the sea. They can be rubbery and, especially squid, should be cooked for a very short or very long time. The meat in a tielle tends to be finely chopped so you miss out on the rubbery element and the taste is carried through the tomato sauce. We also had some excellent, gooey Saint-Marcellin cheese with some delicious plums and cherries which set me up well for the day ahead but then I ended up reading the North Korea book on the couch before falling asleep. I was later told that the wine was removed from the table before I sat down for lunch as no one wanted me to turn up to the doctors smelling of alcohol. The doctors visit was fine but a rather strange experience as I sat for the most part while two French ladies discussed my health. I was occasionally asked for a bit of information but, mainly, I stared around the room until I was asked to do something. Hilary was fab and recounted everything I told her about my health and the doctor was friendly so I ended up leaving the pharmacy afterwards with my much needed meds plus a whole arsenal of throat pharmaceuticals. We got back and Hilary had to take the dog to the vets so I played a game of Bohnanza with Jules and ate a pretty tasty pain aux chocolat et amandes as we were planning on heading to a bar that I'd found on TripAdvisor. The bar, Les Berthom, didn't disappoint as we got there at happy hour and that meant we could drink pints of Belgium beer for under 5€! I ended up with a Houblon Chouffe (9% Belguim IPA) and an organic version of Saison Dupont. Happy as a pig in poo! For dinner, Hilary had made some pork in mustard and some roasted tomatoes with a serious amount of garlic which we had with some lemon polenta and salad. I love her cooking and, although she thought that the pork had lost its flavour due to advanced cooking, I really enjoyed the meal. We finished with some watermelon and some Gorgonzola Torta. The first proper day of the holiday was excellent and reasonably chilled while also being productive with the medical visits! We had some lovely home cooked food, cracking beer and managed to not die of heat exhaustion!

















