Historic Gems & Jewelry

From the Mouawad website:

JUBILÉE

Weight: 245.35 carats

Shape/Cut: Cushion Antique

Grade: E-VVS2

This magnificent colorless, cushion-cut diamond with a weight of 245.35 carats ranks as the sixth largest in the world. The original rough stone, in shape an irregular octahedron without definite faces, weighed 650.80 (metric) carats; it was found in the Jagersfontein mine towards the end of 1895. A syndicate of London diamond merchants comprising the firms Wernher, Beit & Co., Barnato Bros and Mosenthal Sons & Co., acquired the Jubilee together with the Excelsior. At first the stone was named the Reitz in honour of Francis William Reitz, then President of the Orange Free State in which Jagersfontein is situated.

In 1896 the syndicate sent the diamond to Amsterdam where it was polished by M. B. Barends, under the supervision of Messrs Metz. First, a piece weighing 40 carats or so was cleaved; this yielded a fine, clean pear shape of 13.34 carats which was bought by Dom Carlos I of Portugal as a present for his wife. The present whereabouts of this gem is unknown. The remaining large piece was then polished into the Jubilee.

When during the cutting it became evident that a truly superb diamond of exceptional size and purity was being produced, it was planned to present it to Queen Victoria. In the end this did not happen and the diamond remained with its owners. The following year marked the Diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria so the gem was renamed the Jubilee to commemorate the occasion.

In 1900 the syndicate displayed the Jubilee at the Paris Exhibition where it was one of the centers of attraction. It was then valued at 7,000,000 francs.

Shortly afterwards Sir Dorabji Jamshedji Tata bought the diamond. He was the Indian industrialist and philanthropist who laid the foundation of his country's iron and steel industry; these and the cotton mills founded by his father formed the cornerstone of modern India's economic development. Sir Dorabji Jamsetji Tata died in 1932. Three years later his heirs sent the Jubilee for sale at Cartier's, who in December of that year mounted it in a display of historic diamonds. In 1937 Cartier sold the Jubilee to M. Paul-Louis Weiller, the Paris industrialist and patron of the arts. The diamond's former setting was changed into a baguette diamond brooch, suggestive of either a six-pointed star or a stylized turtle.

M. Weiller was always generous in lending the Jubilee to exhibitions which included one staged at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington in 1960 and another held in Geneva in December of the same year. In 1966 the Jubilee returned to South Africa where it was featured in the De Beers Diamond Pavilion in Johannesburg.

Recapping our story so far:

Discovery:  On 26 January 1905 a mine worker at the Premier Mine in South Africa alerted the surface manager to something sparkling in the mine wall.  Wells walked over and pulled out a diamond so large he suspected a practical joke. Someone in the mine office threw it out of the window. Even Thomas Cullinan, the chairman of the mine, refused to get excited: “It is probably a large crystal.”

As we now know, it was not just a large crystal.  At 3,026 carats the Cullinan was not only the largest diamond ever discovered, but a diamond of exceptional color and purity.

Cutting: Having been presented to Great Britain’s King Edward VII, the Cullinan was turned over to the Asscher brothers of the respected Asscher Diamond Company to cleave it and cut the resulting stones.  

“On 10 February 1908 the Cullinan was cleaved into 3 pieces by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam and eventually into nine large stones and a number of smaller ones. At the time, technology had not yet evolved to guarantee the quality of modern standards, and cutting the diamond was difficult and risky. To enable Asscher to cleave the diamond in one blow an incision half an inch (1.27 cm) deep was made. Then a sharp knife was placed in the incision and the diamond was split clean in two with a piece of steel along one of four possible cleavage planes. The Cullinan split through a defective spot which was shared in both halves of the diamond.“    via Wikipedia

...and now we continue our story.

So, whatever happened to the stones that resulted from Asscher’s cleaving of the Cullinan Diamond?

The resulting gems were, once again presented to King Edward VII of the United Kingdom on the occasion of his 66th birthday.

1. The largest of the polished gems is the Cullinan I - you may know it as the Great Star of Africa.   Weighing in at an unprecedented 530.4 carats (106.08 g) it is the largest clear cut diamond in the world.  

The impressive Pear-Cut Cullinan I is mounted in the head of the Sovereign's Sceptre with Cross which is still the preferred Sceptre of the Crown.

It was the largest polished diamond of any color until the discovery in 1985 of the Golden Jubilee Diamond (545.67 carats (109.13 g)), also from the Premier Mine. 

2. The second-largest is Cullinan II or the Second Star of Africa; at 317.4 carats (63.48 g) it is the fourth-largest cut diamond in the world, and is mounted in the Imperial State Crown.  

The Cushion-Cut Cullinan II, showing 66 facets is set prominently in the front of the Imperial State Crown, just below the Black Prince's Ruby (which we all know now is a large Spinel) 

SEE ABOVE:  However - as the story goes... Queen Mary ordered the Cullinan I (530.20 carat) pear-shaped diamond and Cullinan II (317.40-carat) cushion-shaped diamond to be temporarily removed from the Crown Jewels, so she could wear them mounted as a brooch as seen here on her devant - corsage to the opening of Parliament in 1910.  Looks like a giant version of “Granny’s Chips!”

3.  Cullinan III, or the Lesser Star of Africa, is a Pear-Cut Diamond mimicking it’s namesake. The 94.4 carats (18.88 g) gem has seen life from a couple viewpoints.

First,  Queen Mary, wife and queen consort of George V, had it set in the top cross pattée of the crown that was made for her coronation in 1911. In 1914, it was replaced by a crystal model. 

Today, Cullinan III is most frequently worn in combination with Cullinan IV.  The resulting brooch is fondly referred to by Elizabeth II as “Granny’s Chips”.

4. Cullinan IV  also referred to as the Lesser Star of Africa, is Square Cushion-Cut gem with a weight of 63.6 carats (12.72 g).  It was also set in the base of Queen Mary's Crown only to be removed in 1914. During a State visit to the Netherlands in March of 1958 the Queen Elizabeth II revealed that Cullinan III and IV are known in her family as "Granny's Chips". 

When the couple visited the Asscher Diamond Company, where the Cullinan had been cut 50 years earlier, the Queen first debuted the brooch publicly.

During her visit, she unpinned the brooch and offered it for examination to Louis Asscher, the brother of Joseph Asscher who had originally cut the diamond. Elderly and almost blind, Asscher was deeply moved by the fact the Queen had brought the diamonds with her, knowing how much it would mean to him seeing them again after so many years.

5. Cullinan V is a stunning Heart Shaped Diamond that weighs 18.8-carats (3.76 g) heart-shaped diamond set in the centre of a platinum brooch that formed a part of the stomacher made for Queen Mary to wear at the Delhi Durbar in 1911. 

The brooch was designed to show off Cullinan V and is pavé-set with a border of smaller diamonds. It can be suspended from the VIII brooch and can be used to suspend the VII pendant. It was often worn like this by Mary.

6.  Cullinan VI is one of only two marquise-cut gems of the 9 major diamonds) from the Cullinan and it weighs 11.5 carats (2.30 g).  It hangs from the brooch containing Cullinan VIII and forming part of the stomacher of the Delhi Durbar parure (see photo above). 

Cullinan VI along with VIII can also be fitted together to make yet another brooch, surrounded by some 96 smaller diamonds. The design was created around the same time that the Cullinan V heart-shaped brooch was designed, both having a similar shape

7. Cullinan VII  is the second of the marquise-cut diamonds and weighs 8.8 carats (1.76 g).  It was originally given by Edward VII to his wife and consort Queen Alexandra. After his death she gave the jewel to Queen Mary, who had it set as a pendant hanging from the diamond-and-emerald Delhi Durbar necklace, part of the Delhi Durbar Parure.

8. Cullinan VIII  Cullinan VIII is an oblong-cut diamond weighing 6.8 carats (1.36 g).  It is set in the center of a brooch forming part of the stomacher of the Delhi Durbar parure. In the photo you can see it between the two parts of the Emerald drop at the bottom of the Queen’s Stomacher.

Today, however it is most commonly worn in the brooch formed when added to Cullinan VI  (see photo with VI).

9. Cullinan IX  may be the smallest of the principal diamonds but I find it suited that it is the same shape as the largest Diamond obtained from the Cullinan. Cullinan IX Ring is famous on it’s own, a simple  pear-cut it weighs 4.39 carats (0.878 g) and is mounted in Platinum.

              Starring The Shirley Temple Blue Diamond

A 9.54-Carat Fancy Deep Blue Diamond Ring that was bought by the Legendary Movie Star’s Father in 1940, Estimated to Sell for $25–35 Million

The auction is led by The Shirley Temple Blue Diamond: a 9.54-carat Fancy Deep Blue, Potentially Internally Flawless, VVS2 clarity diamond ring owned by Shirley Temple throughout her long life – from a child star lifting America’s spirits out of the Great Depression, to her decades of service as an American diplomat (then Shirley Temple Black). Her father purchased the ring in early 1940 – around the time of her 12th birthday – for $7,210. The diamond comes to auction next Tuesday with an estimate of $25–35 million*.

The Magnificent and Rare Shirley Temple Blue Diamond. Weighing an impressive 9.54 carats, the charming cushion-cut Fancy Blue Diamond ring was originally purchased by the child star’s father George Temple in 1940 as the film The Blue Bird was completed. To offer such a spectacular stone, bolstered by the impressive provenance of one of America’s brightest stars is an incredible opportunity worthy of a Hollywood ending. Sotheby’s is privileged to again be entrusted with the sale of another one of the world’s greatest blue diamonds.

In total the Magnificent Jewels sale will offer more than 300 pieces, with estimates starting at $5,000. Further auction highlights include:

DISTINGUISHED COLLECTIONS

Sotheby’s will offer fine art and jewelry from the collection of prominent New York philanthropists Mamdouha & Elmer Holmes Bobst this spring, with full proceeds benefiting the charitable causes the couple supported during their lifetimes. From the sculptural jewels of Marianne Ostier – whose pieces rarely appear at auction – to the fantastical artistry and whimsical designs of Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., Mamdouha Bobst’s collection offers a superb selection of mid-century signed jewels. Taken together, the bold, colorful assemblage speaks of a woman who dressed for all occasions both day and night – including state dinners at the White House – with confidence and a clear sense of personal style.

Sotheby’s will offer Property from the Collection of Bernard & Josephine Chaus – co-founders of American sportswear firm, Bernard Chaus Inc. – in a series of auctions this year in New York. The collection ranges from fine paintings to jewelry to European furniture, all acquired by the couple over the course of nearly four decades. Next Tuesday’s sale will be highlighted by a Magnificent Platinum and Diamond Ring (estimate $1.2–1.8 million) from Josephine Chaus’s personal collection. The ring features an emerald-cut diamond weighing 15.37 carats, D color, VVS 1 clarity, Type lla and potentially Internally Flawless.

IMPORTANT DIAMONDS

Magnificent Platinum and Fancy Purplish Pink Diamond Ring

Set with a cushion modified brilliant-cut Fancy Purplish Pink diamond weighing 12.45 carats, Natural Color, VS2 clarity

Estimate $3–5 million

Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Pendant-Necklace

Centering a pear-shaped Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond weighing 30.81 carats, Natural Color, VS2 clarity

Estimate $1–1.5 million

“”

Unearthed last November in the Lucara Diamond Corporation’s Karowe mine in Botswana, the spectacular rough crystal provoked much astonishment and exultation as it emerged from the mass of mined material. 

The last time such a momentous rough diamond was discovered dates back to 1905, when the 3,106.75-carat rough Cullinan Diamond was discovered at the Cullinan Mine near Pretoria, South Africa. Presented to King Edward VII two years later, it was subsequently cut, yielding nine polished diamonds of superb quality. One of them, the 530.20-carat Great Star of Africa, became the largest top-quality polished diamond in existence and was set into Queen Elizabeth II’s sceptre. The other eight all became part of the Crown Jewels of Great Britain. After holding the title of largest D colour diamond for nearly a century, the Star of Africa may soon have to relinquish it, as independent reports indicate that the Lesedi La Rona – although weighing less than the Cullinan in the rough – has the potential to yield the new largest top-quality diamond that has ever been cut and polished. 

And if and when, after the sale, the time eventually comes to cut this spectacular rarity, a full complement of truly diamantine nerves will be required. For while the art and craft of diamond-cutting – a meditative skill often passed down through generations – has radically improved since the Cullinan was cut, it is still through man’s ingenuity that the full beauty and light of a gem is revealed. Certainly, the laser scanning, plotting and precision-cutting used today were unimaginable a century ago, and our scientific understanding of the diamond’s optical properties has deepened. But the complex process of cutting diamonds remains intuitive, demanding experience and expertise as well as the ability to look into the heart of the stone; a generally high-stakes profession, it becomes especially charged in cases such as this one. According to the independent reports accompanying the Lesedi La Rona, the craftsman to whom the task of cleaving this stone befalls has the potential to cut the world’s largest top-quality diamond exceeding the Great Star of Africa.

Only time will reveal the gems the Lesedi La Rona will yield. For the moment, all we know is that its sale will be a milestone in the history of diamonds and auction house sales, if only because this once-in-a-lifetime rarity will be on centre stage.

via Sotheby’s “All That Glitters” blog

Neil Lane Jewels At The 27th Annual Palm Springs International Film Festival Awards Gala

Palm Springs, CA: - January 2, 2016

Amber Heard

- Wearing 3 gold and diamond wide bangle bracelets, 2 black onyx and gold rings and 1 diamond and platinum ring

Johnny Depp

- Wearing black diamond and platinum dress set

Helen Mirren

- Wearing sapphire, platinum and diamond pear shape earrings and a platinum and sapphire bracelet

About the Neil Lane collection

Designed as an open work Greek key band millegrain-set with circular-cut diamonds within an outer border of seed pearls, framing a central detachable old mine-cut diamond, inner circumference approximately 305mm, unsigned, later tiara frame, case stamped Cartier.

This superb ruby and diamond ring was part of the personal collection of the last Queen of Italy, Maria-José. When the young, clever and attractive Belgian Princess Marie-José married the Prince of Piedmont, future Umberto II in 1930, she received jewellery inherited from the fabulous private collection of his grandmother, Queen Margherita. At the same time, as was customary, she received gifts of more jewels from her family, friends, and patriotic Italian supporters of the monarchy. This ring was a gift from the scholar and bibliophile, Tammaro de Marinis to mark a long friendship, based on a shared passion for art and history.

Tammaro lived in the sumptuous Villa Montalto near Florence and there introduced Marie-José to the philosophers Benedetto Croce and Giovanni Gentile, along with the leading artists, poets, and politicians of the interwar period. A man of great taste, Tammaro chose the perfect ring for this brilliant princess set with an outstanding Burmese “pigeon blood” ruby.