Herr Thrift

Coat and hat

Unless it’s raining dogs and cats, I usually grab for my coat and hat. The umbrella seems to be a bit cumbersome for using the narrow Berlin subway, especially the crowded U2 line if I may say.

My vintage tuxedo game

If you have a tuxedo shirt with wing collars, you need a fitted bow tie, so there are no hooks in the back. It took me hours to find one that fits me. Next time I would get a turndown collar.

Those non-summer days in Texas

I am taking a break from tweed, loden, and flannel; all of them I would need in Berlin.

Costa Blanca crowd

MMX Germany

The other day, my friend Marie contacted me. She was doing some work for MMX Germany of Meyer-Hosen. She asked me if I wanted to come over to her office on hip Torstrasse in Berlin, where she stored a half dozen racks full of trousers made by MMX Germany. I have to be honest here. I never heard of that label MMX. I usually wear for trousers the usual suspects: Incotex and Mabitex, and Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren; essentially Italian and American made. It’s always hard for me to find trousers that fit really well. My Asian frame usually demands some kind of slim fit and at the same a higher rise – both things it’s hard to find in Germany.

I was quite pleasantly surprised by the sheer collection of those trousers made in Germany. Marie told me that the company Meyer is still family-owned; and they particularity stressed the importance of quality of the fabric being used. And I wasn’t disappointed. The fabrics mainly came from Italian mills – Zegna and Loro Piana. Most of the cotton trousers had some kind of silk mixed into it. This detail always pops out – making the feel of trousers not only softer but also a bit shinier.  However, I immediately noticed the flannel pants made with Loro Piana cashmere flannel. Despite being summer, there is already an itch in me to break out my tweed and flannel.

While Zegna, Loro Piana, and VBC make a big part of the selection of fabrics, I also noticed that some fabric were fair trade. I think this is a huge nod to the European market, where sustainability plays a big part in consumer preferences – at least with the younger people. Adding to that, from labels most trousers are manufactured in the European Union, so at least some social standards are held up, which is important preference for European consumers.

Another detail stressed is the construction. Meyer coming from traditional tailoring, as I was told, they incorporated all the usual details that one would find in upper markets pants: split-yoke, loops for hangers, pick stitching,  and double besom pockets in the back. The buttons were even made of ivory, as far I could tell. That’s something I really like, as these buttons kind of give these pants a special touch. Like most hip and young labels, MMX used patterned lining like paisley. While it might not add to the construction, I appreciate the detail-orientation, and most important, it’s something the wearer of the pants only knows—and maybe a significant other.

The fit of the pants were great. Slim fit from waist down to the hem. It’s a very contemporary Italian look that I am very much into. There were no strange pluckering or bulges, straight to the point – something I am looking for in pants. As I said, it’s always a bit hard to find trousers that fit me and these pants nail it down for me. The only thing that I would criticize is that the rise is a bit on the mid-size. I don’t think for most people that would be a problem, but rather just for people, whose proportions are more body centered like mine. These pants lend a very elegant look but not too formal. I can imagine myself wearing some of these pants in my business casual work environment without looking out of touch.

All in all, if you are looking for some contemporary European looking trousers besides the usual Italian suspects, I would recommend giving MMX Germany a try.

Summer denim

With temperatures hitting low 80s in Berlin, I find myself not being able to wear my heavy jeans from Gustin. I always thought it would be a bit too much for my legs to wear heavy denim in the summertime. 

I was a firm believer in chinos for summer, but lately I found those white jeans from Levi's, a classic 501s cut. I am quite a latecomer for white denim but I think they simply go well with my skin tan. Sid Mashburn wears white jeans well.

It takes some guts, I guess, to wear white denim in Berlin -- a city that I would describe rather Protestant than Catholic; somber when it comes to colors and forms. However, to Berlin's defense, Berlin is quite adventurous when it comes to streetwear. 

I kept it simple, blue and white. Nothing too crazy. And the frayed cuffs on the jeans keep it cool.