Glass Box Diaries

My Siamese Algae Eater Started Eating My Aquarium Plants!

Siamese algae eaters have a great reputation in the aquarium hobby, and for good reason. They're one of the most effective algae-eating fish available and can be a fantastic addition to the right community aquarium. Mine has been peaceful with its tank mates and, apart from occasionally nudging my Corydoras away from food so it can grab a bite first, it has never shown any serious aggression. Recently though, it started doing something I wasn't expecting... eating my aquarium plants.

The first plant affected was my Echinodorus 'Tropica'. At first I assumed it was simply melting because it was shaded by a large Anubias growing above it. However, after noticing damage appearing on my Echinodorus 'Aquartica' and Echinodorus 'Ozelot Red Flame', I realised something else was happening. I eventually caught the Siamese algae eater grazing directly on the leaves. So far, I've witnessed it twice, although I haven't been able to capture it on camera yet.

What's particularly interesting is that it doesn't seem interested in any of the other plants growing in the aquarium. It appears to be targeting Echinodorus species specifically, while leaving everything else untouched. That's made me wonder whether there's a particular reason for the behaviour rather than it simply becoming a plant eater.

Because Siamese algae eaters are such a common species, I reached out to several experienced fish keepers to see if anyone else had experienced the same thing. Surprisingly, only one person had. Their theory was that the behaviour can sometimes appear during periods of unusually warm weather as a form of stress-related feeding behaviour. They'd noticed it several times during heat waves, and when I looked back at what had happened in my own aquarium, the timing seemed to match. Apart from the already-melting Echinodorus 'Tropica', the healthy sword plants were only attacked during the recent spell of hot weather.

At this point I can't say for certain that higher temperatures caused the problem, but it's an interesting observation and one worth sharing. Now that the weather has cooled down, I'll be keeping a close eye on the tank to see whether the behaviour stops completely or returns during the next heat wave.

A Quick And Easy Way To Reduce Algae Levels In Your Aquarium!

Most people think algae problems are caused by lighting, but one of the most overlooked causes can actually be hiding inside your filter.

Over time, your filter traps fish waste, uneaten food, dead plant material, and other organic debris. This detritus is then broken down by microorganisms. During that process, nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus are released back into the aquarium. If those nutrients build up faster than your plants can use them, they can help fuel algae growth.

I've seen this happen in my own aquariums. As phosphate levels gradually increased, different types of hair algae started appearing. After cleaning the filter media regularly and bringing phosphate levels back under control, the algae slowly disappeared.

That's why I now clean the filter media in all of my filtered aquariums once a month. It helps remove trapped organic waste before it's fully broken down and recycled back into the water, making it easier to keep nutrient levels stable over the long term.

You might be wondering why I often recommend leaving some detritus on the substrate while also telling people to clean their filters. The difference is what happens to that organic matter.

Detritus on the substrate becomes part of the aquarium's food web. Shrimp, snails, water louse, scuds, worms, and countless microorganisms all feed on it. Some of the nutrients become temporarily stored in their bodies, slowing their return to the water and giving plants more time to absorb them or allowing water changes to remove them.

Inside a filter, however, there are usually very few detritivores. Microorganisms do most of the decomposition, so nutrients are generally returned to the water much more directly. By removing the trapped debris during routine filter maintenance, you're physically exporting some of those nutrients before they complete the recycling process.

This isn't a magic cure for algae, but it's a simple maintenance habit that has consistently helped keep my aquariums cleaner and more stable.

Air Stone vs Filter: Which Oxygenates an Aquarium Better?

With temperatures rising during the current heatwave, many fishkeepers are reaching for an air stone to help keep their fish alive. While an air stone can certainly help in some situations, it's not always the most effective way to increase oxygen levels in an aquarium.

As water temperature increases, its ability to hold dissolved oxygen decreases. At the same time, fish, shrimp, snails, and beneficial bacteria all continue using oxygen, which means warm weather can quickly push an aquarium closer to its limits. If you notice your fish gathering near the surface or breathing more rapidly than usual, low oxygen could be part of the problem.

If your aquarium has a suitably sized hang-on-back filter, internal filter, or canister filter, try adjusting the outlet so it creates ripples across as much of the water surface as possible. The goal isn't to create huge waves but to keep the entire air-water interface moving. In many aquariums, this provides better oxygenation than simply adding an air stone.

The reason is that oxygen enters the aquarium at the water's surface. Strong surface agitation continually renews this air-water interface, allowing oxygen to diffuse into the water more efficiently while carbon dioxide escapes. Surface movement also helps prevent proteins, oils, and other organic compounds from accumulating into a surface film, which can further reduce gas exchange.

Air stones, sponge filters, box filters, and undergravel filters can all improve oxygenation too, but they're only as effective as the amount of water movement they create. Many smaller budget air pumps simply don't move enough water to match the surface agitation produced by a correctly sized filter. The bubbles themselves contribute relatively little oxygen directly—the water movement they generate is what really matters.

Filterless aquariums are a little different. Most successful filterless tanks rely on large numbers of healthy aquatic plants. During the day, warmer temperatures can increase photosynthesis, allowing plants to produce more oxygen while the lights are on. Once the lights go out, however, photosynthesis stops and both plants and animals begin consuming oxygen instead.

That's why I always keep an air stone and a suitably sized air pump ready as a backup for my filterless tanks during hot weather. Thankfully, I only need to use them a couple of times each year, but having them available provides extra peace of mind if oxygen levels start to fall overnight.

Unboxing And Hatching My New Order Of Medaka Rice Fish Eggs!

Where I got the eggs - https://ricefishuk.com/

Here's a Medaka egg unboxing and a step-by-step look at the hatching method I've been using, and it's been working really well so far. At the time of recording, 22 of the eggs had already hatched, with more fry continuing to emerge each day.

The eggs arrived in a thermal envelope to help protect them from temperature swings during shipping and were supplied in a methylene blue solution to help reduce the risk of fungal infections while in transit. There were plenty of eggs included, all settled safely at the bottom of the bottle.

I bought these eggs from ricefishuk.com and @medakaricefishuk on Instagram. They stock a wide range of beautiful Medaka colour lines, and because the fish are bred here in the UK, you don't have to worry about unexpected import fees, customs charges or long international shipping times. The price you see is the price you pay.

There are lots of different ways to hatch Medaka eggs, but this is the simple method I personally use. I picked up three inexpensive 1-litre food storage tubs from Tesco and removed the labels from the bottom so it would be easier to see the eggs during daily transfers. I half-filled one tub with tap water treated with dechlorinator before carefully pouring in the contents of the bottle.

Because Medaka eggs are attached to the female's spawning filaments, they often arrive in small clusters. Fortunately, they're very easy to separate by gently squirting water at them with the supplied pipette. This helps spread the eggs out and makes them much easier to inspect each day.

I also keep the tubs in direct sunlight. I can't say for certain how much difference this makes, but it's the method I've had success with. Having three tubs allows me to move the eggs and later the fry into fresh dechlorinated water every day, which many breeders believe helps maximise hatch rates and improve survival by keeping the water clean.

A useful rule of thumb is to divide 250 by your room temperature in Celsius to estimate roughly how many days the eggs will take to hatch. In my case, the first fry appeared on day five. As each fry hatched, I moved it into its own clean container, added a very small amount of food and continued changing the water daily.

By day nine, even more fry had hatched, and over the following week I had new babies appearing almost every day. I'm now up to 22 healthy Medaka fry, confirming that the eggs were successfully fertilised and in excellent condition when they arrived.

Upgrading The Light On My 40 Gallon Planted Community Tank!

Sometimes the smallest upgrades can make a huge difference to an aquarium, and that's exactly what happened with my 160-litre (40 US gallon) planted tank.

My article on the best aquarium lights - https://glassboxdiaries.com/best-aquarium-lights/

Check prices for the Seaoura SR659 in your area - https://glassboxdiaries.com/aeaourasr659

(Affiliate Link, I get a small commission for sales at no additional cost to you)

For years this aquarium had been running with two lights, but after recently upgrading the filter there simply wasn't enough room to keep both. My old Nicrew C10 also had another problem. After years of use, the plastic support legs had started to warp, causing the light to vibrate against the filter and create a constant rattling noise. Removing it solved the vibration, but it also left the aquarium looking much darker under my remaining Hygger 957.

After PAR testing a huge range of aquarium lights last year, I already had a good idea of which light I wanted to replace it with. I decided to install the Seaoura SR659 because it offers noticeably more light output while also being more affordable than the Hygger and using fewer watts, helping keep electricity costs down over the long term.

Installation was quick and straightforward. The light includes a built-in temperature alarm, although it's not a feature I personally use. Programming is simple too, with three different operating modes. S1 provides an easy day and night cycle, S2 adds sunrise and sunset effects, while S3 gives you full WRGB customisation if you enjoy fine-tuning your lighting. For this aquarium I've gone with S1 because it's simple, reliable and does everything I need.

Although my phone camera doesn't really show it properly, the difference in brightness is very noticeable in person. The plants instantly look better illuminated and the aquarium has a much brighter, cleaner appearance.

I want to be clear that I'm not a Hygger hater. I've bought several of their lights and heaters with my own money over the years and they've served me well. In fact, they recently offered to send me some of their newer lights to test. However, once I mentioned that I wanted to compare them directly against Seaoura's latest models, I never heard back.

Moving My Honey Gourami Over To Their Permanent Planted Tank!

After more than a month in quarantine with no signs of illness, it was finally time to move my honey gourami into their new home.

These two fish have been living in a 45-litre aquarium while I monitored them for any signs of disease, parasites, or other health issues. With quarantine completed successfully, they were ready to make the move into my heavily planted 70-litre aquarium.

Before transferring each fish, I carried out a quick visual health check to make sure there was nothing I had missed. Once I was happy everything looked good, they were carefully moved into the larger tank where they will become the centrepiece fish.

Originally, I had planned to stock this aquarium with Apistogramma borellii, but they have been surprisingly difficult to find locally. Fortunately, honey gourami are one of my favourite fish species and make an excellent alternative. They offer beautiful colouration, fascinating behaviour, and a peaceful temperament that works well in many community aquarium setups.

One thing that helped make this move so smooth was that the water parameters between both aquariums are almost identical. Matching parameters as closely as possible can significantly reduce stress when moving fish between tanks.

As soon as they entered the aquarium, both honey gourami began exploring their new surroundings. The tank contains plenty of aquatic plants, hiding places, and sight breaks, giving them lots of territory to investigate and helping reduce the chances of aggression.

As far as I can tell, both of these honey gourami are males. While some aquarists prefer to keep only one male, I've successfully kept pairs of males together in heavily planted aquariums for years without any issues.

They're currently sharing the aquarium with lambchop rasboras and, as you can see, neither species seems concerned by the other's presence. There have been no signs of aggression, territorial disputes, or competition so far.

After the move, I fed the aquarium with NT Labs Micro Crumb. I was slightly worried that the confidence of the rasboras might discourage the honey gourami from feeding, but both species ate together without any problems.

At the moment, I'm considering adding a group of panda corydoras in the coming weeks, which would likely complete the stocking plan for this aquarium.

Upgrading My Filter To A Seachem Tidal 55!

After more than three years of running, it was finally time to upgrade the filter on my 160-litre (40 US gallon) community aquarium.

The old AllPondSolutions HOB 500 had served me well, but the motor was starting to get noticeably louder, and because I spend a lot of time working in this room, the extra noise was becoming difficult to ignore. On top of that, one of the aquarium lights is also beginning to fail, so a few upgrades are on the horizon.

After having a great experience with the Seachem Tidal 35 on my 70-litre aquarium, I decided to upgrade this tank to a Seachem Tidal 55. As always, this isn't sponsored and I purchased everything with my own money.

Rather than using the included media exactly as supplied, I customised the filter to better suit how I like to run my aquariums. For the first stage of mechanical filtration, I cut a piece of 50 PPI foam using the included foam as a template. This catches larger debris, is easy to clean, and can be reused for years. Behind that, I added a layer of filter floss to trap finer particles and help keep the water crystal clear.

One of the most important parts of any filter upgrade is protecting the biological filtration. To do that, I transferred some of the mature 30 PPI foam from the old filter into the new one. This allows the beneficial bacteria colony to continue processing waste while the new filter settles in.

Because the old filter had a slightly different flow design, the transferred foam isn't a perfect fit, so I also cut a fresh piece of 30 PPI foam that I'll gradually swap in during future maintenance sessions. This should allow me to transition everything over without risking any disruption to the aquarium's cycle.

Once the foam and biomedia were installed, I added the supplied pumice media, assembled the filter, and got everything running. One feature I really like about the Seachem Tidal range is its self-priming design. There's no need to manually fill the filter with water before starting it, which makes setup incredibly simple.

What To Do If You Stocked Your Aquarium Before Cycling It!

Accidentally added fish before your aquarium was fully cycled? Don’t panic. While it’s not the ideal situation, there are several steps you can take to help keep your fish safe while the tank matures.

The first priority is testing your water. A reliable test kit allows you to monitor ammonia and nitrite, which are the two most important toxins to watch during the cycling process. Testing regularly helps you spot problems early and track how the biological filtration is developing over time.

The next step is reducing the amount of waste entering the aquarium. Feeding less food means your fish produce less waste, which in turn reduces the amount of ammonia being added to the water. You should still make sure your fish are getting enough to eat, but avoiding overfeeding can make a huge difference during the first few weeks.

Adding live plants can also help. Fast-growing aquarium plants absorb nitrogen compounds from the water and can act as an extra safety net while beneficial microorganisms establish themselves. Floating plants are particularly useful because they have direct access to atmospheric CO₂ and often grow much faster than submerged species. Salvinia is one of my favourite options because it's easy to keep, grows quickly, and can help improve water quality in many aquariums. Other fast-growing stem plants can also be very effective.

If your test kit detects any ammonia or nitrite, carry out partial water changes as needed. Many beginners worry that water changes will slow down the cycling process, but protecting your fish should always be the priority. Keeping ammonia and nitrite as close to zero as possible helps reduce stress and lowers the risk of long-term health problems.

It's also important to remember that cycling isn't just about beneficial bacteria. Plants, microorganisms, and other biological processes all contribute to processing waste and improving water quality. As these populations grow, the aquarium becomes more stable and resilient.

A Quick And Easy Way To Manage TDS Build Up In Your Aquarium And Keep Things Safe And Algae Free!

Looking for a simple way to help keep total dissolved solids (TDS) under control in your aquarium? One of the easiest places to start is by taking a closer look at how much food you're adding to the tank.

TDS is a measurement of all the dissolved substances in the water, and while some level of TDS is completely normal, it can gradually rise over time as food, fish waste, plant debris, minerals, and other organic matter break down. In many aquariums, fish food is one of the biggest contributors to increasing TDS levels, especially if more food is being added than the aquarium can process.

While regular water changes, healthy plant growth, and proper maintenance can all help reduce TDS, preventing unnecessary buildup in the first place is often much easier. That's why I've become a big fan of using inexpensive chef's measuring spoons when feeding my aquariums. By measuring food rather than estimating it, I can keep my feeding amounts consistent from day to day and avoid accidentally adding too much.

It might seem a little over the top at first, but it's actually a very simple habit that can make a noticeable difference over time. Less excess food means less waste breaking down in the aquarium, which can help reduce nutrient accumulation and may even make it harder for certain types of algae to gain a foothold.

One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is assuming there is a universal feeding rule that works for every aquarium. The reality is that every setup is different. Stocking levels, filtration, plant mass, feeding habits, and even the species you keep can all influence how much food your aquarium can handle.

You'll often hear advice suggesting that any food not eaten within a few minutes should be removed. While that can sometimes be useful, many aquarium inhabitants don't eat that quickly. Shrimp, snails, bottom dwellers, and even some fish species may continue grazing on food long after the initial feeding period.

Instead of following a strict timer, I prefer to gradually experiment with feeding amounts and observe how the aquarium responds. If TDS continues to rise quickly, algae becomes more problematic, or excess waste starts accumulating, it's often a sign that too much food is being added. Small adjustments over time can help you find the sweet spot for your specific tank.

A Quick And Easy Way To Reduce Algae In Your Aquarium!

Algae is one of the most common problems aquarium keepers face, but one of the easiest ways to reduce it naturally is by adding more fast-growing plants to your tank.

Fast-growing stem plants are excellent competitors for nutrients in the water column. By absorbing nutrients that algae would otherwise use to grow, they can help shift the balance of the aquarium in favour of plants rather than algae. This makes them one of the most effective long-term tools for controlling algae outbreaks without relying on chemical treatments.

Some of my favourite options include pearlweed, Lindernia rotundifolia, Limnophila sessiliflora, Ceratopteris thalictroides, and Pogostemon quadrifolius. These species are capable of growing very quickly under the right conditions and can make a noticeable difference when used in sufficient quantities. If your aquarium has hard water and a higher pH, species from the Hygrophila genus, such as Hygrophila polysperma, are often excellent alternatives and tend to perform very well in those conditions.

While moderate-growth plants can still provide some benefit, the fastest-growing species generally offer the greatest algae-fighting potential because they consume nutrients at a much higher rate. For best results, don't be afraid to heavily plant the aquarium. A larger plant mass will usually have a greater impact than just adding a few stems.

It's important to remember that algae control takes time. Even when you make positive changes, the algae won't disappear overnight. Softer algae types, such as green algae and brown diatom algae, often respond the fastest and may begin to decline within a few weeks. More stubborn forms of algae, such as black beard algae and staghorn algae, can take much longer to weaken and may require several months of consistent management before significant improvements are seen.

Adding algae-eating animals can also help speed up the process. Shrimp, snails, and other algae grazers often become far more effective once the algae starts to weaken. Rather than being the primary solution, they can work alongside fast-growing plants to help clean up algae as it breaks down.

Why Honey Gourami And White Cloud Mountain Minnows Work Well As Tank Mates In The Right Planted Tank!

Can you keep honey gourami with white cloud mountain minnows? In my experience, yes. I've had a few questions about this combination because white clouds are often considered a cool-water species, while honey gourami are usually thought of as tropical fish. However, honey gourami are more adaptable than many people realise.

Honey gourami originate from the Brahmaputra River system, where temperatures can fluctuate throughout the year. Because of this, there is a useful overlap between the temperature ranges of both species. I keep this aquarium at 23°C (73°F), which has worked well for my honey gourami and white cloud mountain minnows.

Temperament is another reason this combination has been successful. Both species are peaceful community fish that tend to ignore each other and go about their daily routines. I haven't seen any signs of aggression, territorial disputes, or bullying between them. Instead, they spend most of their time exploring different areas of the aquarium and coexisting without issues.

If you're considering this combination, I would strongly recommend including plenty of plants and cover. Dense vegetation helps honey gourami feel more secure and encourages natural behaviour. In this tank, the honey gourami spend a surprising amount of time swimming through the Blyxa japonica and using the plant growth as shelter.

Feeding is also simple because both species readily accept the same foods. Whether it's flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods, or live foods, they generally feed without any problems. My Amano shrimp help clean up any leftovers, which reduces waste and helps keep the aquarium tidy.

That said, these honey gourami won't be staying in this aquarium permanently. The tank originally served as a quarantine setup, but I'm currently struggling to find an Apistogramma for another aquarium. Because of that, I'll probably move the honey gourami into that tank instead, where they'll have more swimming space, additional plant cover, and the opportunity to become the main centrepiece fish.

A Quick Update On My Spider Plant Growing With Its Roots In My Aquarium!

Spider plants are quickly becoming one of my favourite houseplants to grow directly from aquariums, and here's a quick update on one of the specimens I have mounted to the rear glass of one of my tanks.

This particular spider plant has its roots growing directly into the aquarium water, allowing it to access a constant supply of nutrients produced by the fish, shrimp, snails, microorganisms, and natural processes happening within the aquarium ecosystem. A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned that it had started producing plantlets, which was already a great sign that the plant was thriving.

Since then, it's taken another step forward and is now covered in lots of tiny white flowers. I really like the look of flowering spider plants, so I'm hoping some of the other spider plants growing on my aquariums start doing the same over the coming weeks and months.

One thing I've found interesting about growing spider plants this way is just how well they adapt to life with their roots submerged. As long as the crown of the plant remains above the waterline, they seem perfectly happy with their roots hanging down into the aquarium. The constant access to water and nutrients can support surprisingly vigorous growth.

Beyond simply looking good, spider plants can also provide practical benefits for aquariums. Their roots absorb nitrogen compounds and other nutrients from the water, helping to reduce the build-up of potential pollutants while contributing to long-term water quality and stability. While they shouldn't be viewed as a replacement for good aquarium husbandry, they can become a useful part of a balanced planted aquarium system.

For lighting, this plant has its own dedicated grow light, although it's nothing particularly powerful. I'm currently using an older 5-watt Sansi puck light running for around 12 hours per day, and as you can see, it's still producing excellent results.

A Quick Update On My Planted Nano Community Tank!

My video on how I set this tank up - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ab4QKwxiVKU Today marks 300 days since setting up my 45-litre (12 US-gallon) Ember Tetra and Pygmy Corydoras aquarium, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to share an update on how the tank is progressing.

The aquarium uses Fluval Stratum as the substrate, a Seaoura SR659 aquarium light, a Nicrew SLIM hang-on-back filter, and a Fluval T Series heater. Overall, the tank has been running smoothly, and the livestock are all doing well.

One of the biggest changes recently was removing the Ceratopteris thalictroides from the back-right corner of the aquarium. Interestingly, since removing it, the Ember Tetras seem noticeably more confident and spend more time out in the open. I can't say for certain why this happened, but my theory is that the dense plant growth may have made them feel less secure, perhaps because it created areas where potential predators could theoretically hide. Whatever the reason, they're now much more visible and active throughout the tank.

The Pygmy Corydoras continue to behave exactly as Pygmy Corydoras usually do. They spend much of their time weaving through the plants, particularly amongst the Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Green' and the Staurogyne repens. They're not always easy to spot, but seeing a small group suddenly emerge from the plants is always a highlight.

The Amano shrimp population continues to thrive, but the Blue Neocaridina shrimp are proving a little more challenging. Although the shrimp are breeding successfully, I'm fairly sure the Ember Tetras are eating the majority of the shrimplets before they can reach adulthood. As a result, the colony isn't expanding in the way I had hoped despite regular breeding activity.

Most of the plants are growing well, and the aquarium remains densely planted. Removing the Ceratopteris was necessary because the warmer weather caused its growth rate to explode. While fast-growing plants can be useful, it was increasing maintenance requirements and creating too much shade for my AR Mini and Staurogyne repens, both of which were beginning to struggle due to reduced light levels.

Over the next few weeks, I'm considering adding Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Mi Oya' to the back-right corner and Cryptocoryne 'Green Gecko' to the front-right area to fill some of the available space and add a bit more visual interest.

The houseplants growing from the back rim of the aquarium with their roots suspended in the water are also benefiting from the warmer temperatures. The Peace Lily has noticeably accelerated its growth over the last couple of weeks, and I'm hoping the newer Spider Plant and Cebu Blue Pothos start doing the same soon.

The Best Plants For A 10 Gallon (40 Litre) Planted Aquarium!

If you're setting up a 40-litre (10 US gallon) planted aquarium and wondering which plants are best for beginners, here are some of my favourite species that have performed well in smaller tanks without requiring complicated equipment or high-maintenance routines.

Check out more great plants for 10-gallon tanks - https://glassboxdiaries.com/lowtechplantindex/tank_size-35-litres-10-gallons

For the background, Lindernia rotundifolia is a fantastic but often overlooked stem plant. The attractive variegation gives it a unique look compared to many common green stem plants, and its fast growth rate can help stabilise water parameters while competing with algae for excess nutrients. It's a great choice for filling out the rear of a tank and creating a lush planted appearance.

For the midground, Echinodorus 'Tropica' is one of the best dwarf sword plants available. Unlike many larger Amazon swords that can quickly outgrow a 40-litre aquarium, this variety remains compact while still providing the classic sword plant appearance. It creates a focal point without overwhelming the aquascape.

Moving into the foreground, Cryptocoryne albida 'Brown' offers something many planted tanks lack: colour. Its brown and bronze tones help break up the sea of green that often dominates beginner aquascapes while remaining relatively easy to care for under standard aquarium lighting.

If you're interested in growing a carpet, Helanthium tenellum 'Green' is one of the easiest carpeting plants I've come across. Unlike many popular carpet species, it can spread successfully under entry-level lights and doesn't require injected CO₂, making it ideal for beginners looking to create a natural grassy foreground.

Another excellent midground option is Cryptocoryne beckettii 'Petchii'. This plant develops attractive brown and reddish tones that add contrast and depth to an aquarium while remaining easy to grow in low-tech setups.

For hardscape, Anubias nana remains one of the best beginner plants available. It can be attached to rocks or driftwood, tolerates a wide range of conditions, and grows slowly enough that it rarely becomes difficult to manage. Its compact size makes it particularly well suited to 40-litre aquariums.

Floating plants have become increasingly popular, and Salvinia cucullata is one of the most interesting species available. Its tightly folded leaves give it a distinctive appearance while retaining the hardiness that makes Salvinia species so easy to keep. Floating plants can also help absorb nutrients and provide shade for fish and shrimp.

Finally, if you'd like to take your aquarium beyond the waterline, Spider Plant is an excellent emergent option. With its roots submerged in the aquarium, it can grow surprisingly well while creating a natural transition between the tank and the room around it. The exposed foliage can also help give your aquarium a more natural ecosystem-style appearance.

One of the best things about all of these plants is that they can thrive in beginner-friendly, low-tech aquariums without the need for expensive equipment. With a decent light, a suitable substrate, and a little patience, it's possible to create a beautiful planted 40-litre aquarium that looks great while providing a healthier environment for fish, shrimp, and snails.

An Affordable, Beginner-Friendly Nano Tank Setup To Get You Started In The Hobby!

Looking for a budget-friendly nano aquarium setup that actually works? In this video, I walk through the exact equipment I'd recommend for anyone getting started with a planted nano tank without spending a fortune.

This setup comes in at around £90, $120, or €105 and is based on products I've personally used for years across multiple aquariums. Rather than chasing expensive premium equipment, I've always preferred reliable products that offer great performance for the money, and these are the items I keep coming back to whenever I set up a new tank.

The foundation of the setup is a 25-litre (6.6 US gallon) Diversa aquarium. It's a fantastic size for shrimp, snails, and smaller nano fish while still being compact enough to fit on most desks, countertops, and shelving units. If you want more stocking options, you can always move up to the 45-litre version while keeping the same basic equipment philosophy.

For lighting, I recommend the Seaoura SR616 aquarium light. This has become my favourite budget planted tank light thanks to its combination of affordability, reliability, and plant-growing performance. I've used several of these lights over the years and continue to run them on multiple aquariums today. Whether you're growing easy plants like Anubias and Java Fern or faster-growing stem plants, this light offers excellent value for money.

Filtration is provided by the Nicrew Slim Hang-On-Back filter. While I replace the included disposable cartridges with 30 PPI filter foam, the filter itself is one of the best budget options I've found for nano aquariums. The foam modification improves biological filtration, reduces running costs, and makes maintenance much simpler over the long term. It's a setup I've used successfully on numerous tanks.

To maintain stable temperatures, I recommend the Fluval T Series heater, particularly the T50 model. Its power output is well suited to smaller aquariums and helps keep tropical fish, shrimp, and plants comfortable year-round. Like the rest of the equipment featured in this video, it's a product I've trusted for years without any reliability issues.

A Quick Walk Around The Aquatics Section Of Pets At Home Sheffield!

Here's a quick tour of the aquatics section at Pets at Home Sheffield, one of the largest pet store chains in the UK. Unfortunately, they had just received a fish delivery, so the aquarium lights were turned off to help reduce stress and allow the fish time to settle into their new surroundings.

While they had all the usual community fish you'd expect to find in a big-box store, including tetras, rasboras, danios, and livebearers, there were a few species that stood out. I was surprised to see bamboo shrimp, as I've never spotted them in any other Pets at Home branch. They also had kribensis, otocinclus, and even celestial pearl danios, although the CPD tank was blocked off, so I couldn't get a proper look at them.

There were three bettas available, and sadly the healthiest-looking fish was still in pretty rough condition. This is one of the reasons I always encourage people to carefully inspect fish before purchasing and to quarantine new arrivals whenever possible.

I also spotted a common misidentification that appears throughout the hobby. The store was labelling red robin gouramis as red honey gouramis. These are not the same species, so if you're looking for genuine honey gouramis, it's worth doing your research before buying.

One thing that genuinely surprised me was seeing goldfish for sale. None of my local branches stock them, and I had previously been told that the chain had stopped selling them altogether.

The store also carried its usual selection of aquarium kits, equipment, live plants, fish foods, and accessories. The Tropica plant display contained a good range of beginner-friendly aquarium plants, and the Fluval Bug Bites and Hikari foods they stock are both products I've personally used for years with good results.

🌿 Mulm isn’t just aquarium waste… it’s the foundation of a thriving ecosystem.

In this article, I dive into the science behind mulm, including its role in biological filtration, nutrient cycling, plant growth, food webs, and long-term ecosystem stability.

📖 Read the full article here - https://glassboxdiaries.com/the-magic-of-mulm/

For years, many fish keepers have been taught to siphon out every bit of mulm during maintenance. But what if that layer of detritus is actually one of the most valuable parts of your aquarium?

Mulm supports beneficial microorganisms, fuels nutrient recycling, provides food for shrimp, snails, and microfauna, and helps create the complex food webs found in healthy natural ecosystems.