Frontier Medic

In Northern Lappland, there's a hiking course called The Bear's Ring (Finnish: Karhunkierros). Starting at Hautajärvi and ranging at approx. 82 km (50 miles), The Bear Ring passes through Salla and Kuusamo and finally ends at the ski resort in Ruka (or vice versa if you so choose). The Bear Ring was first marked back in 1955 and has become one of the most popular hiking trails in Finland, favored by many of different ages and visited by over 15,000 hikers per year.

Although the trail is classified as moderate to, at times, difficult, it is recommended that the hiker has moderately good physical condition, since the terrain is at times very difficult, especially at the end when crossing the fells can be a grueling task. The median time it takes to compete the trail is between 4-6 days, depending on the pace. Along the trail, there are wilderness huts, lean-to shelters and outdoor camping spots for overnight stays.

A few weeks back, in the midst of September, we, a group of 6 persons, went out to hike the trail. End result was that we did it in three (3) days, with daily trips being 26,16 and 38 km. Two persons had to withdraw due to ankle and knee injuries. With minimal energy, no water, no food and dead tired, we crossed the fells at pitch black darkness (not recommended!) and passed the "finish line" at Ruka ski resort at 11:40 PM.

Although I do not recommend this pace, I do recommend you visit (or hike) the trail at least once. It's also possible to hike only parts of it, since most of the trail passes through the Oulanka National Park. For a smaller dose, The Small Bear's Ring (12 km), which is also a part of the Bear's Ring is also an option.

Our exact route (Movescount): Day 1, Day 2, Day 3

Tough Viking is the biggest extreme running event in the Nordic countries. The race consists of 12 tough kilometres with 15 brutal obstacles. The obstacles are made of water, ice, electricity, barb wire, mud and more.

And that's where we're going tomorrow, me and some other crazy guys and gals. Are we tough enough? Well see..

During our November 2013 trip to Nepal, we went for a three-day whitewater river rafting trip. The firm we chose was Paddle Nepal and the trip was Kaligandaki River. 

Paddle Nepal offer trips from 1/2 day, 3 days up to 8-12 days. One of the best and biggest rafting firms working out of Pokhara, Paddle Nepal comes highly recommended and for a reason. Here are some points regarding our trip. This was almost six months ago, so bear in mind, some things might have changed. So, if your going river rafting in Nepal, I seriously recommend Paddle Nepal as your place of choice!

Positive points: 

The PN guides and local personnel were absolutely marvelous and extreme knowledgeable and experiences whitewater rafters (former National Olympic Team members).

A pre-trip briefing was being held the night before, so as to familiarize the team (ca. 10 people) with all aspects of the trip

Great and fast catering. Exceptionally good food, especially considering it's the outdoors. Tent accommodations were very good (see pics) and friendly service overall.

Safety is clearly a huge issue for Paddle Nepal. This was shown during one of the more difficult rapids in which they decided, according to company policy, not to raft (but to carry the boats across) the rapid due to it's high risk and difficulty. Also, the rafts tipped over twice, during which the teams also showed a calm and professional manner.

Negative points: 

"On Friday, 18th April 2014, a large avalanche swept down the western flank of Everest and over the Khumbu Icefall where numerous Sherpas were carrying loads from Base Camp to C1 and C2.It took the lives of 16 of those Sherpas and as if that wasn’t tragic enough, it left an ensuing melee of arguments, accusations and incompetence - rows which spread from the Sherpas and commercial operators right through to Nepalese government levels..."

With these words begin the first (1/5) blog report by Russell Brice, owner/manager of Himalayan Experience (Himex) chronicling the events that preceded and followed the tragic avalanche that marked an early end to the 2014 climbing season on Mt. Everest.

Brice is best known for leading the 2006, 2007 and 2009 expeditions on Everest which were filmed by the Discovery Channel for three seasons of a series titled Everest: Beyond the Limit. The series touts Brice's experience, weather savvy, and professionalism compared to other groups on the mountain. (source: Wikipedia)

For a deeper understanding of the root causes behind the Sherpa reactions, the effects of the rather corrupt and unreliable government of Nepal and the reactions of the mountaineering community on Everest, Brice's posts, which mirror his professionalism as an expedition leader and astute understanding of the mountaineering community, are seriously worth reading. If not for any other reason, then these are the words of a man who was there when it all happened.

The entire report (parts 1-5) can be found here:

“In 1976 two British soldiers completed the first successful all military expedition to the summit of Everest. To celebrate this endeavour, the Army return 30 years later to conquer Everest once more. The plan: To tackle the peak via the treacherous “West Ridge”, a notoriously dangerous climb that has only been completed by 19 people.” (from Amazon.com) This series is available via YouTube in all five parts, roughly 20 minutes each (link: episode 1/5).

On 8. July 2013, four Finnish extreme skiers, Mika Merikanto, Pekka Pakkanen, Sami Haapasalmi ja Mikko Heimonen, were the first Finnish to ski down the steepest slope of the Aiguille Verte mountain. The wall is 800 m high and the slope angle (median) is 52 degrees.

"The ascent took 7 hours and the descent took about 1 hour. It was a dream come true", said Pekka Pakkanen.

The Expedition Medicine trek up to Everest Base Camp (8230 m from sea level) starting from Kathmandu via Lukla and through the Khumbu Valley up to Namche, Pheriche and Gorak Shep.

T-minus 9 hours until the red-eye to Delhi departs. From there it's another flight to Kathmandu, arrival at 12am local time. After a few days of leisure in Kathmandu, we'll meet the entire EWM Mountain Medicine 2013 group and board a small 17-seat propeller plane, that will take us to Lukla. This is where our 17-day course hike along the path that takes us up along the Himalayas will begin. Final destination; Everest Base Camp.

As if that life-changing, ultra-cool, adrenaline-junkie experience isn't enough, it's three days of river rafting along Kalgandaki River, classified as a 4+ on the river difficulty scale. And neither of us has any experience in river rafting. But, as Jedi Master Yoda so eloquently said, there is no try, we either do or we don't.

I had never heard of the Naimakka paracord bracelet before, but one of my colleagues wears one (in army green). I always thought it was something he'd done himself or bought from some outdoor store. Today, I was in Partioaitta (a Finnish outdoor store) when I spotted the small Naimakka stand. So, sure I was right; it was bought in an outdoor store. But there was a small sign that explained what this bracelet is all about (it was quite similar to the text you find on the front page of their website) and that just did it for me: 

Long lines up Everest.

The iconic photo by Ralf Dujmovits, taken in 2012 of a conga line of climbers ascending Mount Everest. Dujmovits, who himself decided against summiting due to not feeling well, hoped that this image would open the eyes to the dangers of the mountain and that the sheer amount of climbers per season will invariably lead to disaster.

"I came down the Geneva Spur, and already at the Yellow Band there were lots of people. And underneath the traverse to Camp III, it was just a black line, a long black line. I almost couldn't believe what I saw, that so many people made the decision at the same time to go up. [...] I was very sure at that moment that some of them wouldn't make it back. It’s just a question of statistics. As I know the Summit Ridge, I know the Hillary Step—I had been in ’92 on the Summit with oxygen—I just know that there is not enough space for everybody."

With less than T-minus 30 days until departure for Nepal, things are starting to get in order. Some last minute web-shopping is still being done and the visa to India is still a "work in progress", but mostly were all set. In a few weeks, we're going hiking to Repovesi National Park, near Kouvola in south-eastern Finland, with a group of work colleagues. Perfect chance to test all that gear in action!

The other day, I made myself a checklist of things that I shall pack with me. It'll double as a reminder of exactly which shirt and which bag I'm taking but also as a checklist on the return trip, to see what has been left on the mountain. ;)

As for the Indian visa, I'm still a bit torn. Primarily, I had thought about getting a "on arrival"-visa at the Indira Gandhi Airport, but due to the late arrival + early departure next morning, I'm still torn whether it's a better option getting a 6 month tourist visa here (which seems quite superfluous for a less than 24h stay), since the queues there can be quite long. According to the Embassy of India, an "on arrival"-visa would, however, be quite the similar price compared to the tourist visa  (c. 45 EUR vs. 50 EUR). I actually went to the Indian Embassy in Helsinki and queued for about an hour, but had to leave. Trying again later, I guess..

For a deeper understanding of what goes on at the highest clinic in the world, I recommend checking out this 5-part documentary on Everest ER. Narrated by David Tennant, the documentary explores the works and days of the staff at the clinic as well as the climbers, who wish to ascend the top. It also gives some insight into altitude sickness and how severe it can be, all the while showing what life is like at Everest Base Camp.