Tutorial: Cupcake PetticoatĀ by Blueagainlikemorning
This is a tutorial for making a bell/ cupcake petticoat, commonly found in lolita fashion.
*a quick suggestion: I lose things all. the. time. Ā So to keep track of my sewing tools, I keep them in a little bin like so:
anything that belongs in the box, goes immediately back inside the box when Iām done with it.
Now, on to the tutorial!
MATERIALS YOU WILL NEED
Above, I took a picture of the materials I used, plus some I thought I would use and didnāt. Ā You will need:
- tulle, petticoat net, or organza (I used stiff, synthetic organza)* - safety pins (a whole lot) - regular pins (also a lot) - fabric scissors (20dollarlolita talks about them here; itās best to have a Ā Ā Ā dedicated set of fabric shears that you only use for fabric so they stay sharp) - measuring tape - thick elastic, as long as your waist measure plus 2ā³
*I used a material that did not fray, so I did not need to hem it. Ā This tutorial will work best with fabric like tulle or synthetics that donāt fray.
**I recommend 4-5 yards of material. Ā I canāt give an exact number, for reasons youāll see below.
DIRECTIONS
Step 1: Decide how long your petticoat will be
Take your tape measure, and using the shortest dress or skirt you will wear with the petti, measure from the waistline down to the hem. Ā Here, you see me measuring my blue dress; the skirt length is 19ā³.
Once youāve found that, you will take 1ā³ off of that measurement and thatās your petticoat length! Ā For me, that was 18 inches (thatās pretty standard for someone 5ā²3ā³ like me).
Step 2: Cut your tulle
As 20dollarlolita mentions in this post, a cupcake petticoat is made up of two tiers. Ā The second tier is twice the height of the first tier, and 2-3x as long.
Since my petti was going to be 18 inches long, my top tier was 6 inches (plus seam allowance on top and bottom) and my bottom tier was 12 inches (plus seam allowance on top).
Typical seam allowance is 5/8ā³, but I use 1/2ā³ because it is easier for me to measure.
Above, you can see the 12ā³ pieces on the right, and the 6ā³ pieces on the left, as well as my cat Hamilton.
Okay kids, time for the Do Not Do This: I wanted a really big petticoat, so I used about 15 yards for the bigger bottom tier and about 5 yards for the smaller top tier. Ā Youāll see the results below; itās kind ofĀ completely fucking ridiculous. Ā It also had kind of a weird shape. Ā I would recommend trying 1-2 yards for the top tier and 3-5 for the bottom. Ā You could probably get away with less, even.
Step 3: Fold that motherf*cker
Youāre going to do this for each tier. Ā Iām showing you the process for my bigger bottom tier below. Ā Mine was so long, I had to spread it all the way down the hallway to get it flattened out nicely.
First, fold it in half:
Thatās the halfway crease closest to you, next to the cat food bowl. Ā Put a safety pin at that halfway point.
Fold it again, so itās in quarters now. Ā Add safety pins at all the folds. Ā Make sure you pin each layer of fabric separately (youāre not pinning anything together, just marking where the folds are).
Above: in quarters
Below: check out those safety pins!
I measured both of my tiers into eighths to make this easier, but with less fabric 4 might be okay. Ā I still recommend 8.
Do this on both tiers before you continue.
Step 4: Pin together your tiers
Now that your tiers are both divided into the same number of sections (mine were both 8), youāre going to pin the tiers together at those safety pins. Ā Below, you see me matching the pins:
Hamilton was helping.
Youāre going to pin the layers together with the tops of the strips lined up together. Itās almost impossible to see, but thatās what Iām doing in the photo below. Ā You should end up with a smaller strip on top of a bigger strip, pinned together near the top of both strips at your 8 waypoints. Ā The upper edges of each strip should be even, although the bigger tier is not going to lie flat between the pins. Ā This is as intended.
Step 5: Question your life and your choices.
Youāre sitting in a giant pile of tulle or whatever, and everyone is staring at you like youāre crazy, cats included. Ā Hamilton was obsessed with the organza, and it was very hard to stop her from helping out too much, because her idea of helping is NOT the same as mine.
Step 6: Rufflinā time!
Iām not going to lie to you, this step is kind of shitty without using a ruffler foot. Ā If you can get your hands on one, follow the directions and use that so youāre ruffling the bigger tier onto the smaller one. Ā For hand ruffling the Blue way, keep reading.
Spoiler alert: Iām lazy, and the idea of threading something through layers of organza in order to gather it by hand was incredibly daunting. Ā So I just kind of winged it. Ā If you want proper gathering instructions, 20dollarlolita has them on one of their petticoat tutorials.
Hereās what I did. Ā I lined the pinned tiers up with my sewing machine so the bigger tier was on top, and the seam allowance (1/2ā³ for me) was towards the inside of the sewing machine. Ā You know the bit where the arm curves down into the base and itās hard to push a lot of fabric through? Ā Yeah, you donāt want to have to shove your ruffles through there.
Like so. Ā Now, I just held the bottom layer (smaller tier) flat and fussed with the top layer with my fingers as evenly as I could to ruffle it up, because thatās how I swing. Ā I donāt necessarily recommend this, but it worked out okay for me. Ā Remember, when you get to the safety pin, the tiers should line up again; take the pin out, and keep going.
You can add a ribbon along here, which I did; you can see it a little below my organza. Ā This helped keep everything from sliding around too much (it still slid around some).
do that all the way to the ends of your tulle!
Step 7: Gather the top edge to the waistband
Again, this part is kind of... haphazard, but it worked for me and was low-ish spoons. Ā I got a big elastic trim-thing to use for the waistband. Ā Pin that and the top of the petti in quarters or eighths, just like you did with the top and bottom tiers.
Youāre going to want to pin the OUTSIDE of the top tier to the OUTSIDE of the waistband for comfort reasons; itās not as pretty, but no-one should be looking that closely at your undergarments. Ā I decided the outside was the side where the seam allowance between the tiers stuck out, again for comfort reasons.
This time, I gathered the top edge before I sewed, because it wasnāt as slippery with the waistband. Ā So I pinned the ruffle all the way around.
See what I mean?
Step 8: Sew on the waistband
IMPORTANT: YOUāRE GOING TO USE A STRETCH STITCH FOR THIS PART, SO THE ELASTIC CAN STILL STRETCH TO GO OVER YOUR HIPS.Ā
20dollarlolita writes about how to do a stretch stitch on a variety of machines; mine has a stretch stitch setting, so I used that.
Sew the waistband carefully to your top tier.
Remember how in Step 6 I said you donāt want to have to shove your ruffles through the bend in the sewing machine? Ā Well, guess who pinned their ruffles the wrong way and had to do that. *raises hand*. Ā Thatās another Do Not Do that I did so you donāt have to.
Step 9: Sew that bitch into a circle
So now youāve got this weird, strip of waistband + tulle + more tulle. Ā Youāre going to need to stitch the raw ends together to make it into, you know, a skirt shape. Ā
Pin the ends together, and just sew a nice little stitch down all the way from the top of the waistband to the bottom edge of the petti. Ā Again, I actually sewed it so the seam allowance sticks outward away from my body for comfort reasons; you can choose your own adventure here.
Step 10: Prance around like a fairy showing everyone your cool new petti
Dude! Ā You did it! Ā Holy shit, look at that petti you made! Ā I hope itās a lot less weird than mine was, because as I said, I fucked up the length of the tiers. Ā Ā
Mine ended up like this: (forgive the underwear shot, I was so tired by this point)
You canāt super tell, but A) itās SO POOFY! Ā Like, borderline *too* poofy, and definitely too poofy for casual daily wear. Ā Since you used less tulle, this hopefully wonāt be a problem for you.
B) theres kind of a weird angular bump between the top and bottom layer, I think because I had wayyyy too much tulle in the top layer, so it got so bunched into the waistband. Ā As above, hopefully aināt no thing if youāre using the right lengths.
I actually made myself a second casual petti, with much less tulle; itās slightly under-poofy, so Iām giving you measurements for hopefully a happy medium.
Maybe someday Iāll add a picture of a skirt over it, but youāre just going to have to trust me for now.
Have fun, and get thee to making petticoats!












