A slightly culture-shocked and confused American studying abroad at KMUTT in Bangkok, Thailand, wondering how she ended up here. If everything goes according to plan, will be back in the States shortly before Christmas. If everything goes really well, might not be moving back ever.
Check out all of my pictures on my Flickr .
Bangkok & Beyond: Recommendations for Your Thai Travels
Bangkok is an amazing city with so much to offer, it can seem overwhelming at times when planning a short trip. I was there for 6 months and didn't get to see everything I wanted to see! Here's a short list of recommendations of things that stand out to me a year and a half out:
Restaurants:
Long Table - Sit outside, it's an amazing view of the city
Cabbages & Condoms - Novelty aside, it's for a good cause and they've got good food
Terminal 21Â - Â Food court, the mall is a sight to see
STREET FOOD - I cannot emphasize this enough. EAT ALL THE STREET FOOD. But avoid the street food on Khao San Road as it can be over-priced and under-flavored. Fresh fruit is a MUST.Â
Sights:
Royal PalaceÂ
Wat Pho - Get a massage!
Dusit Throne Hall - NOT Dusit Zoo (it will just make you sad)
Chinatown
Chatuchak Weekend Market - Come with plenty of cash and get ready to bargain
Jim Thompson House
Nightlife:
RCAÂ (Royal City Avenue) - Cab drivers will know this place as "Ahh Cee Et", an epiphany realized after a major headache. Route 66 is my favorite of all the ones on RCA.
Sukhumvit Soi 11 - A street with tons of restaurants/ highend hotels/ clubs/ bars. Go here AT LEAST once. My favorite club is Levels.
Khao San Road - Of course. Favorite: The Club Khao San.
Beyond the City:
Amphawa Floating Market - Gotta do the firefly tour, sometimes hard to see the fireflies but the sunset is worth it
Chaing Mai - I spent 2 weeks there! So many temples! Doi Suthep on the mountain is a must.
Ko Tao - SCUBA DIVING! Great for beginners, you won't find a better place in the world to get certified.Â
Ko Phangnan - Full Moon Party. Neon paint beach party. 200B buckets of Red Bull and vodka. Enough said.
Most of these places are what you'll find in every guidebook, to be honest. Start at one of these places and wander through the city (bring a map!), that's how you'll find the best stuff. There's an alleyway of street stalls selling handmade clothes and other goods near MBK, but I couldn't begin to tell you how to get to it. Always have "temple attire" on hand (long pants & something to cover your shoulders), because you never know where you'll end up.
Above everything else - I recommend carrying the Lonely Planet Thailand around with you everywhere. Wifi is abundant in Bangkok, but it's not always very fast or reliable.Â
All of my Thailand-specific blog posts from when I studied abroad there are here. Feel free to message me with questions!
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Celebrating the King's Birthday & Learning How To Cook Thai Food
The 5th of December marks the King's birthday, so celebrations were held in honor of the beloved king. Â A few of us ventured downtown to join in the revelry, donning yellow (the king's color) for the occasion. By the time we got downtown, the celebrations around the Royal Palace had died down a bit, but we still managed to launch a lantern, buy some street food, and watch the hoards of people walk by.Â
At one point, a sweaty European fellow clutching a Chang beer comes up to us and says "Excuse me, do you speak any English?" To which we answered, "Well, just a little bit." He then proceeded to ask us what was all the hubbub was about, as he had just arrived in town and seemed to have promptly gotten drunk enough to not notice the "Happy Birthday" signs hovering over the ubiquitous billboards of the King. He said his thanks and then stumbled off into the crowd. Oh, farangs.Â
The next day, Emily, Wilton, Wilton's mom and I took a cooking class in town. Â We learned how to make tom yum goong (spicy sour soup with shrimp), panang curry with chicken, green curry with chicken, stir fried chicken with cashew nuts, and mango sticky rice for desert.
Photo courtesy of Emily.Â
It was an absolutely delicious meal and a really neat experience. They gave us cookbooks so that we could recreate the dishes at our leisure.Â
All photos from my cooking class experience can be viewed here.
[This is the account of the first time I went to Chiang Mai, Thailand's "second city." Â It will be brief, and picture-laden, as I want to keep you all updated, but I also must devote some time to packing!!]
26 November 2012 -Â
Bangkok: Board the bus around 11pm. It's a pretty swanky bus, outfitted with screens for every seat that store a collection of movies to view at the ticket-holder's discretion. After watching two movies (The Bourne Identity and The Bourne Supremacy), I try and fail to sleep. Regardless of swank, it's still difficult to sleep on a bus.Â
27 November 2012 -
6AM arrival time in Chiang Mai, our group of 8 sleepily exits the bus terminal and climbs aboard a 'taxi'. It's not your conventional taxi, but it works the same.
Chiang Mai's taxis:
(photo not mine)
We arrived at our guest house, ate some breakfast, splashed water on our faces, dropped off our luggage, then headed out to see some temples.
Temples, in order of visit:
1. Wat Phra Singh
To see all my pictures from this temple, click here.
2. Wat Chedi Luang
All photos from this temple can be viewed here.
3. Wat PhantaoÂ
These photos can be viewed here.
With that temple tour complete, the group went back to the guest house and napped. Slept like rocks for two hours. Overnight bus travel can be exhausting.Â
After a nice nap, the group headed out to a BBQ place. You know, like where you grill your own meat. Even though I've been gone for 6 months, "BBQ" still means pulled pork for me. You can take the girl out of North Carolina, but you can't take North Carolina out of the girl...
We bought some fireworks and sparklers, for sale on every street corner, and watched them light up the night.
(photo credit to Emily!)
28 November 2012: Loi Krathong!
The group gathered in the early morning to take a trip up the mountain to Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep. Â The entire mountain was shrouded in mist, obscuring the view of the city below.Â
The stairs to the temple.
Golden pagoda surrounded by clouds.
I even got to sign my name on the fabric they would later wrap around the golden pagoda as part of the Loy Krathong celebrations.
The whole group! Photo credit to Tom.
Next we went to Bhubing Palace, where the king and his family stay during trips to Chiang Mai, and toured the gardens there.
Afterwards, we ventured down the mountain a bit to Wat Palad, "The Temple below the Temple." It's a lesser-known, but still incredible temple perched on the mountain. We first made krathongs out of banana tree stumps, banana leaves, and flowers, and then explored the temple grounds.
Here's the one I made! Photo Credit to Emily.
The temple grounds included a dried river bed that opened up to a breathtaking view of the city and the valley below.
We stayed there a while, found a dog, admired the view, and then headed back down the mountain for dinner and to prepare for the Loy Krathong festival!
Every year, thousands of people - foreigners and Thais alike - flock to Chiang Mai to experience Loy Krathong. Celebrations include a brightly colored parade, launching of lanterns and krathongs, and twinkling lights as far as the eye can see. The group launched lanterns into the sky with other festival goers, catching our breath as the lanterns would hover and start to sink before slowly rising again. We lit the incense sticks and candle on our krathongs and sent them down the river, along with a wish, as an offering to the river goddess.Â
29 Nov 2012 -
This day started out like most- gathered early and boarded a van to take us back up another mountain. Â This time it was at the Doi Inthanon National Park a few hours north of the city. We stopped and ate lunch at the only restaurant in the park, and after we had our fill, continued on our way.Â
Not to long after, we made it to the Highest Point in Thailand!
Photo courtesy of Emily.
There, we experienced misty, damp forests, mossy boardwalks, and temperatures reaching a low of 58F. Â This was the coldest I had been in at least 8 months. It was shocking. Â We also met a guy on the trail who worked in Chapel Hill, proving once again, no matter where you go, home is never too far away.Â
I also bought a hat, but then I promptly lost it. :(
Photo courtesy of Emily.
Next, we went exploring near a waterfall. I swear, there is nothing this group loves more than scrambling over some rocks.
Photo, again, courtesy of Emily.Â
For dinner, we attended a dinner and dance show that showcased the traditional meals, dress, and dance of the Lanna people, the kingdom that existed in Chiang Mai before it was absorbed into Siam, and what many people there still identify with today.Â
At the end, we were asked to participate. Photo courtesy, again, of Emily.Â
30 Nov 2012 - Chiang Rai!
We drove the 3 hours to Chiang Rai, first stopping at the hot spring that was really quite unimpressive, but the shops that surrounded it were interesting enough. Â We stopped again at a temple that featured a huge amount of fish, koi and catfish, and feed for purchase.Â
Inciting chaos.Â
We met up with a friend of a friend who lives in Chiang Rai for lunch, and then followed him back to his compound for a tour. It was quite an impressive sight. He quarries rocks, mills corn, and dries rice on a large piece of land that is worked by and lived on by members of his family. Talk about a tight-knit community.  We walked around there for an hour or so, admiring the sights and avoiding the discarded corn husks as they were launched into the air from machines designed to separate them from the cob.Â
After visiting his mill, we departed for the most famous Chiang Rai destination, the White Temple.
Such a stark contrast to the brightly colored wats of the rest of Thailand, Wat Rong Khun was quite the sight to behold. We toured the gallery of the artist who conceived the idea of this temple and is still working on bringing the wat to completion. We watched the sun set on the white temple, painting in color in the reflective surfaces.Â
1 December 2012 -
In the morning, we went to the hill tribe market, where the people of the hill tribes sell their handmade goods. Â I bought a fair amount of things, it was hard to resist the bags and wallets, all so vibrant and intricate.Â
After a brief lunch, and a stop by the guest house to drop off my recent purchases, a small group of us visited the Chiang Mai Zoo! We saw pandas and koalas and big cats; elephants, and camels, and lots and lots of deer.Â
Panda!
After a very delicious dinner, the whole group boarded another bus en route for Bangkok. A few hours of sleep, and a movie or two later, we got off the bus and into a cab, which would take us the rest of the way to the the apartments.
And it was in that cab where I lost my iPhone. :(
4:30AM arrival time at the apartments, a bit foggy in the mind, and now suddenly phoneless, but content with the trip. Bangkok for a few days, and then we would be back in Chiang Mai!
All my photos from this trip can be found by clicking here.Â
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Pause for a break in continuity that I normally try to uphold on this blog-
Tonight I sat in a Thai  restaurant bamboo shack, ate Indian food, avoided the unseasonable downpour in the midst of the dry months, and watched "O Brother Where Art Thou?" projected on a sheet in said bamboo shack. Â
Incongruencies abounded, but I could not have been happier.Â
We made it to Chiang Mai!! Got off the bus at 7:30AM, ate breakfast, saw 3 temples already, ate a big lunch, and then took a 3 hour nap. Successful day so far.
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Monday (the 26th) is my last final exam of the semester, for my Pollution Control Technology class. It was an interesting and informative course, but I will be glad to see it come to completion.
The examination will end at approximately 4PM, and in keeping with tradition of a hurried departure, I will be leaving for the northern province of Chiang Mai at 9PM. I will be there for a full 6 days with 9 other people.
Our trip, not accidentally, coincides with the Loi Krathong (literally translates to âto float a raftâ) holiday on the 28th. This holiday entails sending small candlelit rafts with offerings down the river, and in Chiang Mai, is often accompanied by the launching of lanterns.
(More info can be found at http://publicholiday.org/calendar/loy-krathong/ )
It is supposed to be a wonderful experience and I canât wait to go!
As a side note, I havenât traveled since the end of September and I am getting pretty antsy to get up and moving. Seems Iâve got a mild case of the travel bug.
On the 18th of November, Standard Chartered held itâs annual Marathon in Bangkok. Â Marathons, however, were not the only length of race that they offered. Â There was also the option of half-marathon, 10K, 4.5K, and 1.5K.
About a month ago, I signed up for the 4.5K. Â And on the 18th I woke up at 4:30am to make the 6:30am start time.Â
There were hundreds of people there from all over the world. Â When we arrived around 5:45, the first marathoners were just getting in from their 3AM start time. All of the winners for the marathon, in every category, were Kenyans. Â Go figure.Â
The sky began to lighten as I took my place at the starting line.Â
The run itself was incredible. Â It started and ended at the Royal Grand Palace, and looped around the Democracy Monument, and went by different sights of the city. Â
Overall, it took me about 29 minutes to run the 4 and a half kilometers. Â There is definitely room for improvement, but it was my first race, and I was pretty happy about it.
I guess you could say I went from couch-to-5K in ~5 months.Â
Favorite Weekend Tradition: Duck Noodles. The best duck noodle place in the neighborhood is only open on Friday, Saturdays, and Sundays for lunch. Some weeks I'll eat there three times. It's really just that good.
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November started off on a good note, with Halloween at my back, and two months to go.Â
Last minute research consumed my project group, turning in a first draft of our term project (the Life Cycle Assessment of Diesel in Thailand, which follows diesel from extraction to use in a car and totals up all the emissions and energy use at each stage) on the 5th.  We presented our project on the 8th, and got healthy amount of criticism from our professor, after which we buckled down to work twice as hard before we had to turn in our second draft.Â
The following week, I had a final in the same class, and studied diligently for it. Â I'm still not sure what my grade is, but I feel as though I did adequately enough on it.Â
Between the final on Monday the 12th, and Saturday the 17th, my group and I worked morning till late night on our Capstone Research project, which is separate than the one we were working on previously.  This project is called The Life Cycle Assessment of Algal Biofuels from Wastewater for Transportation in Thailand, and basically explores the feasibility of growing algae in Bangkok's wastewater, and then converting that algae into either ethanol, biodiesel, or biogas fuel.  Turns out fuel from algae grown in this way could only replace <2% of Bangkok's petroleum fuel needs, but you gotta start somewhere, right?