1961 Alweg Monorail proposal for Los Angeles part 1
Astonishing--what a vision!

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1961 Alweg Monorail proposal for Los Angeles part 1
Astonishing--what a vision!

Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
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The Real Black Dahlia: Our first tour of the year was a moody passage through the heart of Los Angeles in search of the places that shaped Beth Short in the last weeks of her life. On this most auspicious January 9 excursion, the 69th anniversary of her kidnapping, we unpeeled the known facts of her lonely, rootless last months, and the brutal misery of her still-unsolved murder. And when we came to the place on Norton Avenue where her body was found, the skies opened up with a soft, misty rain. Rest in peace.
Scenes from our last tour of the year - Hotel Horrors & Main Street Vice.
On our final tour of 2015 we led a full bus of urban adventurers through Downtown Los Angeles, telling strange tales of murder, thwarted desire, drug runners, mummies, b-girls, sword-swallowers and firebugs. Our off-the-bus stops included a selection of time capsule interiors: the almost-untouched 1896 Barclay Hotel lobby, the restored Clifton's Cafeteria all dolled up for the holidays and the 1906 King Edward Hotel lobby with its magnificent expanse of gold-veined black Egyptian marble. We also were welcomed into the unfinished retail space of the New Pershing Apartments of the Skid Row Housing Trust, now offering long-term housing for formerly homeless people, and packed with offbeat Main Street history.Want to know the stories that go with these gorgeous spaces? Get on the bus athttp://www.esotouric.com/
File under: irony. The L.A. Times allowed Proquest, a private company, to digitize its archival issues, but the image quality is very poor. So the best copy of this vicious anti-labor cartoon that ran in the Times in December 1911 survives in a socialist pamphlet held in the Cornell University Library.
A modest proposal to restore rather than redesign the lost Los Angeles garden that was John Parkinson’s Pershing Square. (via https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDc0KqmL3hg)

Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
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Sepulveda Blvd Death Trip! What's wrong with Culver City? Within two blocks on today's rambles, we found two legacy businesses closed forever. The much-loved Culver Ice Arena shut down in 2014 after 52 years in business, when they couldn't afford a rent increase. Nothing has taken its place, and the rink sits vacant and silent, with the iconic Ice Capades star on the roof so dripping with cracked paint that she looks like a burn victim. Just down the way, Allied Model Trains really is a burn victim. Earlier this summer, the store closed after 69 years in business--most of them spent inside the mini replica of Union Station nearby, now a camera store. A bankruptcy auction was scheduled to clear out the stock, but then last week.... FIRE! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zisp8YKk4y8 It's almost enough to make you believe in curses.
A great DTLA sign is no more--RIP Sassony Arcade!
A sad day, as the colorful backlit plastic and incandescent sign on the defunct Sassony Arcade on Broadway is demolished under cover of darkness, pending redevelopment of the building. This delightful and historic sign could have been saved and many people would have been happy to preserve it. What a shame that the property owners chose to destroy it instead.
"Then" photos by Esotouric, "Now" photo by Dion Noravian.
Charles Bukowski remembered the arcade from his youth, and revisited it and other landmarks in the lovely nostalgic poem "Downtown" (1989).
1 nobody goes downtown anymore 2 the plants and trees have been cut away around 3 Pershing Square 4 the grass is brown 5 and the street preachers are not as good 6 as they used to be 7 and down on Broadway 8 the Latinos stand in long colorful lines 9 waiting to see Latino action movies. 10 I walk down to Clifton's cafeteria 11 it's still there 12 the waterfall is still there 13 the few white faces are old and poor 14 dignified 15 dressed in 1950s clothing 16 sitting at small tables on the first 17 floor. 18 I take my food upstairs to the 19 third floor--- 20 all Latinos at the tables there 21 faces more tired than hostile 22 the men at rest from their factory jobs 23 their once beautiful wives now 24 heavy and satisfied 25 the men wanting badly to go out and raise hell 26 but now the money is needed for 27 clothing, tires, toys, TV sets 28 children's shoes, the rent. 29 I finish eating 30 walk down to the first floor and out, 31 and nearby is a penny arcade. 32 I remember it from the 1940s. 33 I walk in. 34 it is full of young Latinos and Blacks 35 between the ages of six and 36 fifteen 37 and they shoot machine guns 38 play mechanical soccer 39 and the piped-in salsa music is very 40 loud. 41 they fly spacecraft 42 test their strength 43 fight in the ring 44 have horse races 45 auto races 46 but none of them want their fortunes told. 47 I lean against a wall and 48 watch them. 49 I go outside again. 50 I walk down and across from the Herald- 51 Examiner 52 building 53 where my car is parked. 54 I get in. then I drive away. 55 it's Sunday. and it's true 56 like they say: the old gang never 57 goes downtown anymore.
Scenes from Raymond Chandler's LA tour. From the icepick hotel of "The Little Sister" (The Barclay) to the last lovely vestige of Hollywood's booksellers' row (Larry Edmunds Bookshop), we went looking for noir and we found it.
For more info or to reserve your spot on the next edition of the Raymond Chandler tour, visit http://www.esotouric.com/chandler
The Garfield Building, A seldom-seen Art Deco treasure: For many years, the only way to see any part of the interior of Claud Beelman's magnificent Art Deco Garfield Building (1928-30), a National Register and Los Angeles landmark, was through a grubby glass door behind a metal grate. Despite a million dollar restoration in the 1970s, the Garfield has long been locked up tight, only accessible to vandals and pigeons. But the revival of interest in Downtown architecture has finally stirred the landlords to place the property on the market. Recent weeks have seen the ugly plastic panels come down off the upper first story, and some intriguing activity inside the lobby. And when we noticed that this door to paradise was open, we couldn't resist taking a peek. Behold! All this can be yours! (And soon, we fervently hope, more freely accessible to the beauty seeking citizens of the world.)
The Lady & The Shark
1.
Put on your tin-foil hats and buckle up for a ride to Crazy Town, folks. I admit this one is out there.
2.
In late July of 1974, a 13-year-old girl walking her dog in the dunes outside of Provincetown, MA, followed her beagle into a stand of stunted pines, and nearly stepped on the badly decomposed body of a young woman. For a time, the inconclusive investigation into her death gripped all of New England.
An attempt had been made to remove her head, probably with the blade of a shovel, but the decapitation had been unsuccessful. The killer had better luck taking off her hands, which were never found. Several teeth had also been removed, all part of an effort, one presumes, to make her impossible to identify. Her jeans and a blue bandana had been folded and placed beneath her head.
The press dubbed her the Lady of the Dunes and at the time of this writing, over 40 years later, no one has ever claimed her. She remains without a name or a history. Her killer has never been identified.
Much has been written about the Lady of the Dunes and I won’t bother to recap four decades of investigative work here. Deborah Halber dug about as deep into her story as anyone has ever gone in her book The Skeleton Crew: How Amateur Sleuths are Solving America’s Coldest Cases. I recommend it to anyone interested in the granular details of the Lady and also for readers of true crime in general.
For now, though, accept that to this day there are only a limited number of established facts. We know about the blue bandana and the Wrangler jeans. We know she was between the ages of 25 and 49 years old… although 30 seems a particularly good bet. She had expensive dental work. Her hair was auburn or red. She was fit, 145 pounds, and when she was discovered her hair was in a ponytail, captured by a holder with gold sparkles in it. There have been several attempts to reconstruct what she looked like. Here’s one of the most recent efforts:
That’s it. That’s what we know for sure. Everything else is conjecture. And in all the time since her death not one person has stepped forward to say, “I saw her. I met her a few weeks before she was found. I can tell you her name.”
But what if we’ve all seen her? What if she’s been in front of us for decades and we just never noticed?
Who’s in the mood for a ghost story?
Yeah. Okay.
So let’s talk about JAWS.
3.
JAWS was filmed in Martha’s Vineyard in the summer of 1974. It was a famously challenging production; originally scheduled for 50 days of shooting, it took over 120 days to complete, and was continuously teetering on the edge of disaster. The work was worth it - it is the summer movie by which all other summer movies are judged. (The story of how the film got made is a fascinating narrative in its own right. Carl Gottlieb’s The JAWS Log is probably the single best recounting of those hot, desperate days on the beaches of Edgartown, MA)
It’s also my favorite movie. Nothing else is even close. It’s a story I’ve returned to again and again. I think I was nine the first time I saw it, on laserdisc, a format which predated VHS and DVD (God, I loved those big silver platters!). I’ve seen it at least once, almost every single year, ever since. I’m sure I’ve viewed the picture 25+ times. I can recite the lines in much the way a tent revival preacher can recite long passages of the Bible.
And yet I had never seen it on the big screen until this summer. In June, JAWS was unleashed on theaters once more to celebrate its 40th anniversary. Naturally, predictably, maybe inevitably, I was there. For the first time I saw the picture the way it was meant to be seen. On the big screen, baby, that shark’s mouth is just about wide enough to ride a bicycle into it.
I was watching in my usual tranced out state of dreamy pleasure… and then, suddenly, found myself half-lunging out of my seat, prickling with gooseflesh.
Now understand, I had only just finished reading The Skeleton Crew a few weeks before. The Lady of the Dunes is in many ways the centerpiece of the book, and unlike the other crimes Mrs. Halber explores, it remains infuriatingly unsolved. After finishing the book, I had spent a few minutes online, acquainting myself with the latest details… and studying the recreation of the Lady’s face.
And now, suddenly, impossibly, there she was… life-size and looking over her shoulder at me. There for a moment in a busy crowd scene, and then gone.
I settled back into my seat and after my pulse returned to normal, I was able to enjoy the film. By the time I got home I had mostly talked myself into believing I had fantasized the whole thing. Just to be sure, I queued up the scene in question my DVD and rewatched it, to see if my eye would find her once more. But no. At least on the 15″ screen of my MacBook Pro, at 11 at night, I was unable to spot her a second time.
But the thought wouldn’t leave me that my unconscious mind had, in fact, latched into something. In the weeks that followed I talked to several friends about what I had seen (or thought I saw). Finally, I broached the subject with an FBI agent I know socially. I expected a good bit of teasing. Instead, he raised an eyebrow and said, “You know, it might be worth going forward with your theory. There might be something in it. Odder ideas have cracked colder cases.”
With this modest encouragement, I watched the film yet again, going over the sequence in question on a big screen TV, frame-by-frame, with @VoodooDarling as an extra set of eyes.
@VoodooDarling saw her before I did.
Here’s that recreation of the Lady of the Dunes again.
And here’s a crowd scene that appears 54 minutes and 2 seconds into JAWS.
Is that her? On the left?
Isn’t it?
Let’s take a closer look.
Blue bandana. About 30. Fit, 145 pounds. I don’t believe those are Wrangler jeans, but a lady presumably owns more than one pair of jeans.
Is the Lady of the Dunes in JAWS?
4.
Ok.
Ok.
I admit its pretty goddamn wild speculation. And yet…
And yet.
Let’s go a little further down this very dim, very narrow alley of fantastic conjecture.
It is impossible to say with complete precision when they filmed the “July 4th - Crowd Arrives” sequence, which is where this shot appears. But we know it was almost certainly shot in June, because they filmed all the “on island” scenes they could early. The water was too cold for swimming, and the malfunctioning shark wasn’t ready for the “at sea” material until late July.
We also know the Lady of the Dunes was alive in June and that the filming of JAWS was a big deal locally. Lots of folks turned up to try and get a peek at the stars, or the shark, or to see if they could sneak into a shot.
The geography works too. Martha’s Vineyard is a short hop from Provincetown. It would be no surprise at all if a girl summering on the Cape decided to take a few days to explore the Vineyard… especially with the added bait of celebrity to draw her in.
Of course this is far from being even vaguely conclusive. The girl in my isolated frame of JAWS wears a blue bandana, but what of it? In the next sequence, on the busy beach, there are half a dozen women wearing blue bandanas. It must’ve been the style. Furthermore, it sure would be nice if her hair was in a ponytail, looped with a holder that has gold thread in it. But her hair is loose. It would be great if those were Wrangler jeans, but my Google Fu suggests they aren’t.
Here’s all we really have: an extra who bears a startling resemblance to a girl who turned up dead, some coincidences of time and geography, and a writer of horror stories who has a “feeling.”
Not exactly case closed, huh?
5.
I create fiction for a living and I am always my own first audience. Telling stories to myself (especially ghost stories) has been my great pleasure - and compulsion - since childhood.
I am under no illusions about the situation here. I was watching JAWS, under the influence of The Skeleton Crew, and my subconscious invented an exciting little story about the Lady of the Dunes on the spot. It was so good, I persuaded myself it might be true.
It IS a helluva what-if, isn’t it? What if the young murder victim no one has ever been able to identify has been seen by hundreds of millions of people in a beloved summer classic and they didn’t even know they were looking at her? What if the ghost of the Lady of the Dunes haunts JAWS?
I know: to believe an extra glimpsed in JAWS is the verysame woman killed outside of Provincetown is a leap into the extreme hypothetical. That said, before her death, this woman had a life, and some of that life was spent on the Cape during the summer of JAWS. The odds are long that the Lady of the Dunes appears in the picture… but maybe not unimaginably long.
I turn this possibility over to the greatest puzzle solving instrument humans have ever created: the Internet. Give JAWS another watch. Look for the Lady.
Did you spend the summer of 1974 on the Cape or on the Vineyard? Were you in JAWS? Who else was there, the day they captured you on camera? Who did you talk to between shots? What do you remember?
This woman does not have a name:
Does this one?

Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
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Upstairs at the Bradbury Building, all the lovelier because it is so hard to reach. #MyDayinLA
History Keepers exhibition at Pico House - Members of L.A. As Subject, the loose knit historical consortium to which we belong, were asked to contribute one iconic object from their collections for display in this quickly organized exhibition. We don't have a formal collection to draw on, so we brought our favorite retired curator of El Pueblo, the lovely and brilliant Jean Bruce Poole, to the opening last night.
File Under: Dreams Come True. If you're anything like us, you've gazed longingly at the open-cage elevators of Downtown L.A.'s landmark Bradbury Building and yearned to ascend to the tenants-only upper floors. Today, for the first time, we were granted the opportunity to make that rare voyage, only to find the space even more beautiful than we had imagined. And once we arrived, we captured a little bit of this late Victorian magic to share with you.
South LA Road Trip - Scenes from our twice a year excursion through two centuries of the Southern California dream, from Rancho-era fiestas to high performance hot rod teen culture, from Irving Gill's austere modernism to Roland Coate's romantic Spanish Colonial Revival.
A very special part of this tour was our visit to the grounds of the Rancho de San Antonio, aka The Gage Mansion, a California state landmark that has been closed to the public for several years. We've been working hard to ensure that this extraordinary house can be seen, and we are grateful to the residents of the surrounding Casa Mobile Home Co-Op for welcoming us today.
This tour rolls again in February, so join us, do! http://www.esotouric.com/southla/
On our Charles Bukowski tour, traveling Australian performance poet Hamish Danks Brown gave wonderful readings of Bukowski's work, and we saw new neon letters going in on the Clifton's Cafeteria facade. This tour celebrating the iconic LA writer and postal worker rolls about four times a year--join us, do!
http://www.esotouric.com/buk

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Beth Short was a mystery, in life and in death. On today's thunder-punctuated tour of Downtown and points west, we unpeeled the known facts of her lonely, rootless last months, and the brutal misery of her still-unsolved murder. Along the way, we saw some lovely corners of the city, and fell more than a bit in love with the lady.
This tour repeats next on Hallowe’en 2015. Visit http://www.esotouric.com to reserve your spot.