The Baroque Bilbao: The International Museum of the Baroque, Puebla, Mexico
Puebla, Mexico is a dazzling Spanish colonial city with rich and beautiful architecture from the Baroque era. To celebrate this rich history, the city has commissioned The International Museum of the Baroque situated on the outskirts of the historic centre. The Museum has reinvigorated the city, which was on the brink of economic crisis.
The Museum was opened in February 2016 and designed by Japanese architect Toyoo Itō. The Museum’s design is a contemporary reimagining of the Baroque, inspired by the ethics and aesthetics at the heat of this historic cultural movement.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, the Baroque permeated political and economic systems and transformed the conception of nature through innovations in thinking, creating, viewing, and lifestyle.
The Baroque is also an aesthetic understanding of contemporary existence. It’s a sensibility that allowed for a revolution in thought and creativity, which is revealed again in the eyes of philosophers, artists, and intellectuals through their various modes of expression: visual arts, fashion, literature, advertising, mass communication, economy, tourism, and science among others
The museum’s delicate white exterior walls catch the eye from miles away. They look like sheets of paper stood on end and precariously assembled. Doubled by the surrounding reflecting pools, the walls, when seen up close, aren’t fragile at all but are made of 14-inch-thick cast concrete.
The enormous cultural patrimony of Puebla and Mexico serve as the focus to describe this key period in world history and the principles of the Baroque aesthetic, as well as its impact on all spheres of European and Latin American society in the 17th and 18th centuries. For a century and a half, the style pervaded nearly all artistic disciplines and aspects of transatlantic culture, a strange, frantic expression of the newfound contact between two hemispheres that would profoundly change the lives of people on both sides of the ocean. In Mexico, the Baroque left its most indelible mark on the colonial city of Puebla.
Silver and gold extracted from Spain’s colonies were flowing to the Far East and to Europe, where the Roman Catholic Church had responded to Martin Luther’s threat by building temples of worship that bombarded the senses with excessive decoration and copious amount of gold. They reminded all who entered of the awesome power the church wielded. This intimidation tactic is on full display throughout the Americas, including in several remarkable Baroque churches that still stand in Puebla.
The content of the Museo Internacional del Barroco is the result of planning the best way to approach the subject and to transmit its messages to visitors through the very languages of the Baroque to convey direction, coherence, and identity to the elements of the exhibition design, the didactic content, and state-of-the-art audiovisuals.
Maybe it’s not surprising that there aren’t many museums devoted to the Baroque, the artistic and architectural style that’s been described as “clumsy in form and extravagant in contorted ornamentation” and whose name may derive from the Spanish word for “wart.” Even little-b “baroque” can be synonymous with having bad taste.
And yet, the Baroque is also Don Quixote, Descartes, Rubens, Rembrandt, Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz, Isaac Newton, Shakespeare.
“We try to break and dissolve the cold and rigid order to achieve fluid spaces,” the architects wrote in a statement timed to the museum’s unveiling last year. “We hope that when people move from one room to another, they experience a Baroque space.”
Ito, who won architecture’s Pritzker Prize in 2013, designed the building to be earthquake-resistant, a feature that was put to the test (and passed) when a 7.1-magnitude earthquake struck less than 100 miles away in September. Inside, a sweeping curved staircase is bathed in sunlight streaming in through a vast glass wall that looks out on a central courtyard.
“In Baroque art, light symbolises a revelation from God opposing the darkness of ambivalence,” the architects wrote. “In this project, light also acquires a special meaning.”
A recording of choral music welcomes us as we enter the galleries, setting the tone for the journey to come, which can take several hours if you let it. A timeline written on one wall explains that the Baroque lasted roughly from 1598 to 1752, capturing a moment when Western Europe was beginning to grapple with changes including the conquest of the Americas and the Protestant Reformation.
One gallery is filled with a room-size scale model of the city’s centro historico, where visitors could touch a button that lit up the location of this or that Baroque structure, including the intricately tiled Casa de Alfeñique and the Church of Santo Domingo. We had a chance to visit the latter, which contains the gold-dipped Capilla del Rosario (Rosary Chapel), a shining (literally) example of Mexican Baroque with acres of gold leaf coating its every surface. The museum’s auditorium also provides a virtual tour of the chapel, along with other famous Baroque churches around the world, on its four video screens.
Wall texts explained that the Baroque aimed to spark awe in the viewer. Drama, exaggerated emotion, theatricality and sensuality were core elements of the style, which also took on a local dimension in Mexico, the Philippines and Italy. In Cholula, one of Puebla’s nearby suburbs, the eye-popping Church of Santa María Tonantzintla features cherubs with distinctly indigenous features, carved into every last inch of the church’s stucco interior.
Another gallery demonstrated the interest that upper-class Europeans developed in the “exotic” cultures they were increasingly hearing about from merchants and explorers. They started collecting artifacts and animal specimens to display in their lavish homes. One installation recreated such a collection room, complete with “cabinets of wonders”, taxidermied birds, animal tusks and furniture from faraway lands.