Ethical and Eco Fashion: The Lowdown
With celebrities like Emma Watson, Margot Robbie and Lupita N'yongo all rocking more sustainable fashion choices at the 2016 Met Gala, ethical and eco-friendly fashion is nothing short of stylish. We often donât think of fashion when we think of pollution, carbon footprint, chemicals, water consumption and landfill, but we should. Currently 80 billion pieces of clothing are purchased worldwide each year, made from 400 billion square meters of textiles, a rise of 400% from last decade. AND after all that clothing is made, 60 billion square meters of textile remains on the cutting room floor and three quarters of the garments produced will end up in landfills or be incinerated.
The resource consumption of clothes is tremendous, as each individual garment undergoes a long chain of raw material sourcing, textile manufacture, clothing construction, shipping (often from the other side of the world), retail processing, wear and ultimately disposal, especially since much of this process involves natural fibres produced with pesticides, other fibres made with petrochemicals and the use of synthetic toxic synthetic dyes. Not to mention the exploitation of minimum wages and unsatisfactory working conditions of the many many workers in developing nations who produce 92% of our clothing sold in Australia. With the rising demand for cheap, âfast fashionâ, these workers are being pushed to the limits as global brands try to rotate stock often.
Materials: the good, the bad and the ugly
Non-organic cotton â consumes 10% of all agricultural chemicals, 25% of insecticides and 99% of pesticide deaths are cotton farmers, many in rural areas. It can take more than 20,000L of water to produce 1kg of cotton.
Non-recycled polyester and Nylon â made from petrochemicals, non-biodegradable, nylon emits the greenhouse gas nitrous oxide (with 300 times the potency that CO2). Virgin polyester production uses about 70 million barrels of oil each year. Also, fibres end up in waterways and are another pathway for the release of chemicals in the fabric into the environment.
Synthetic dyes â 1.7 million tonnes of chemicals and 1.9 trillion L of  fresh water are used in the dyeing of textiles each year across the world. Wastewater discharged, often untreated, into nearby rivers, where it reaches the sea and spreads around the globe.
Imported materials or clothing â a single cargo ship can produce as much pollution as 50 million cars in just one year â especially if itâs coming from cheap clothing production centres like China, Bangladesh, Cambodia and India
PFCs (per- and poly-fluorinated chemicals which are often found in outdoor clothing, tents, backpacks and sleeping bags to make materials stain resistant and waterproof) â these resist degradation and remain in the environment for hundreds of years and are associated with tumour growth, and endocrine and reproductive system harm
Rayon (aka viscose) â an artificial fibre from wood pulp, which sounds good but involves old growth forest clearing to make way for pulpwood plantations, is water-intensive, and uses chemicals including sulphuric acid in its processing
Other synthetic fibres (acrylic, acetate, spandex/lycra/elastane, lastex, orlon and Kevlar) â while not as water-intensive, raise concerns about manufacturing with chemicals and production pollution
Organic cotton â uses less water, no pesticides, no synthetic dyes, and uses sustainable growing systems that replenish and maintain soil fertility and build biologically diverse agriculture.
Plant-based polymers â such as Ingeo (from corn by-products) are often biodegradable
Recycled polyester and nylon - takes less than half the energy to produce and helps keep plastic products, like drinking bottles, out of landfills. *However, this still uses fossil fuels to clean and recycle the fibres, and a lot of But there are downsides to recycled polyester. Used plastic bottles must still be cleaned and many of these products are âgreenwashedâ â touted as ârecycledâ but actually involves unused plastic bottles to make polyester clothing which they can label recycled.
Hemp - highly productive, easy to cultivate and pest tolerant, so needing few or no agrochemicals whilst at the same time binding and enriching the soil with its deep roots.
Bamboo â hypoallergenic, absorbent, fast-drying and naturally anti-bacterial and comes from a very fast-growing plant. *However, most bamboo still involves chemical pesticides and fertilisers, just in smaller amounts compared to other fabrics
Linen (made from flax) - few chemical fertilisers and pesticides than cotton and uses sustainable farming practices
Animal products involved in clothing are a contentious issue, and products include:
fur (mink, foxes, rabbits, squirrels, badgers, wallabies, possums, racoons, beavers, lynxes, coyotes, seals, otters, bears, chinchillas, martens, bobcats, dogs and cats)
leather (cattle, pigs, goats, sheep, crocodiles, snakes, sting rays, seals, emus, deer, fish, kangaroos, horses, cats and dogs)
real shearling (sheep skin with wool attached)
suede (leather with a specific velvety texture)
down (duck and geese feathers)
Leather - The worldâs largest exporter of leather is China, which kills millions of cats and dogs for skins and labelling leather does not require species identification
NOTE: leather is not simply a âby-productâ of meat production but is a âco-productâ as there is still significant demand for leather which drives the raising and killing of animals. The male calves in the dairy industry also contribute to animal skins.
**However, leather substitutes can include problematic materials such as polyurethane, nylon and PVC (from petroleum, and may involve lead, phthalate chemicals and does not degrade)
Fur â the number of animals that need to die for one fur coat varies from six to 12 for seals and lynxes, up to more than 100 for squirrels. 85% of the worldâs fur comes from animals raised specifically in battery cages for their skins. 2 million dogs and cats killed in China each year for their fur and this is often mislabelled as fox, rabbit or mink fur. The iconic Australian brand Akubra uses 12 rabbits for each felt hat
Wool â a very Australian product, wool is one of the less destructive animal products, however as many as 15 million lambs also die from temperature exposure in Australia every year
Down âMost down sold in products in Australia comes from China where feathers are obtained from 'live-plucking'
Angora â Angora rabbits are bred for their fur, 90% coming from China, and fur is torn from the live animals by hand or with razors
What is an ethical product?
mitigates the risks of forced labour, child labour and worker exploitation  - suitable working conditions, worker protection, living wages
minimises animal exploitation
What is an âecoâ product?
Uses organic or sustainable raw materials or recycled and reused textiles
Are made to last, so that people keep them for longer
Marketing misconceptions: Despite many fashion labels using "green" âecoâ ârecycledâ âsustainableâ and "ethical" marketing to target "conscious" consumers, it is important to note that these brands cannot possibly achieve sustainable practice when they continue to produce clothing in such high volumes and at such ridiculously low prices. Other companies use this lingo to âgreenwashâ products to make them more appealing, without committing to minimizing the social and environmental cost of fashion. Stay alert and pay attention to labelling â if its eco and ethical, the materials and processes should be clearly stated
HOW TO MAKE THE BEST CLOTHING CHOICES
Ten tips to join the Slow Clothing movement:
think â make thoughtful, ethical, environmentally-sound**, informed choices and wear what you buy
natural â treasure fibres from nature and limit synthetics (within ethical limits considering animal cruelty)
quality â buy well once, quality remains after price is forgotten, look for
local â support local makers, those with good ethos and Fair Trade
care â mend, patch, sort, sponge, wash less, use cold water, line dry, properly launder clothes
few â live with less, capsule wardrobe, have one best style, unfollow trends
make â embrace home sewing as a life skill, value DIY and handmade
adapt â refashion, eco-dye, create new from old to suit yourself
revive â enjoy vintage, exchange, markets, op shop, Etsy, Ebay, Gumtree, facebook swaps, garage sales, swaps with friends/youth groups/unis/community groups
salvage â donate, pass on, rag, weave, recycle or compost
**Certifications to look for: Ethical Clothing Australia, Fairtrade, GOTS (organic textiles and ethical labour conditions)
Seems expensive? If you compare it to âfast fashionâ then yes, but ask yourself what cheap fashion prices are really worth - Are the workers getting paid a living wage? Is the fabric good quality and sustainable? Will this garment last? If buying new is too costly even then, go second hand!
Some Ethical and Eco Australian brands (definitely not an exhaustive list)
Cue, Jets swimwear, Nobody Denim, RM Williams, Collette Dinnigan and Carla Zampatti, Etiko, 3Fish, Audrey Blue, (swedish but notable mention for eco jeans), RREPP, Patagonia, Eco Swim, Her, Hunter the Label, Kitsu, Vege Threads, B Goods Label, Oats the Label, A.L.C.H, Bhalo, The Social Outfit, Desert Designs, Moonbird, sticks & sparrow, Topheads Eyewear, Choclo Project, Pink Punk Active, Dragonfly Active, Dharma Bums, Surrender Apparel, Wilderness Wear, Hatha Clothing, Kuwaii, Nico Underwear, Rachel Cassar, Bhumi, Shift to Nature, Thread Harvest
Nudie Jeans Co, Patagonia, Matt & Nat, Stella McArtney, Huit, chinti & parker, EDUN, Made, Seasalt, Polly Wales, People Tree, Pachacuti, Osborn Shoes, Filanthropic, Outerknown, Bishopston Trading Company, Gossypium, Greenfibres, Modo Eco Range, Woodwear, Blue Planet Eyewear, Antonio Verde Eco Sunglasses, Proof, Teeki, Book There, Angela Roi, Base Range, Between the Sheets, Lili Piache, Blue Canoe Organics, Reve En Vert, Intertwined Designs, Skin Worldwide Shop, Ayten Gasson Lingerie, Under the Root, Svilu, Amour Vert, Freedom of Animals, Study NY, ALABAMA CHANIN, Feral Childe, Amawaki Lab, Loomstate, Elroy, Eileen Fisher, London Ethnic Fashion by Londoners, Style Saint, Muzungu Sisters, ASOS Africa, Indelust, Sydney Brown, Kabukimono, Laboni Saha, Krotchet Kids Intl, Everlane, Fair Trade Winds, Mata Traders, Madefair, Fibre Athletics, Good Cloth, Sseko, My Sister, Elegantees, Slumlove Wear, Zady, Indigenous Clothing, Nisolo, Pact, Reformation, Ethica, Maiyet, Mina & Olya
Online shopping sites: https://ecohabitude.com/ Â http://www.ecouterre.com/about https://www.gatherandsee.com/womens/philosophy/
Behind the Barcode (assesses based on ethical worker treatment): http://www.behindthebarcode.org.au/