ClimbTrain.uk

Some great tips from Dave Flanagan in this article on UK Climbing, with ten tips for indoor bouldering, and how they can translate to climbing outdoors.

Warm up

Think!

Watch others

Balance and centre of gravity

Focus on areas of weakness

Safety

Stay relaxed

Grades are subjective

Circuits

Climb outside

I'm fairly sure skin problems are very common amongst climbers, but I've seen little in the way of really solid information and advice.

Perhaps I should take this as a hint and write up a review of everything I've tried. For example, for a long time I struggled to find a quality moisturiser that I could apply throughout a normal working day that wouldn't leave my hands feeling too greasy to type, or hold a pen! The best I've found so far is Aveeno Intense Relief Hand Cream, see link below.

Buy on Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aveeno-Intense-Relief-Hand-Cream/dp/B001RYOSIS

But as above, I should write up a full post on this - I can think of five or six examples of products that really stand out from the competition.

I was reminded of this topic when I noticed the book "Itching to Climb" by Barbara James mentioned on the National Eczema Society website. An amazing life story, and with proceeds donated to the Society.

After several years I still find myself incorporating some Aikido basic practice into stretching out between climbs, or at the gym as part of a warm down after wrist curls and grip training exercises.

By no means is this a comprehensive set of stretches, but to anyone unfamiliar with these practices, it might inspire some additional variety into your usual stretching routine.

Kotegaeshi Undo : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uhah4XIVsi4

Nikyo Undo : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Jhu2fKENsE

Sankyo Undo : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUUSRuRx0Zc

Kantate Osa Undo : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMvqBba2FFU

It's the book Eric Horst described as 'the hottest training book on the planet in 2014', Gimme Kraft by Patrick Matros, Ludwig Korb and Hannes Huch. Translating as 'give me strength' the book comes in German and English, with a companion DVD.

Great review and interview here on The Bouldering Book website.

"How do I get stronger? How can I train most efficiently? Which exercises make the most sense? These are only a few questions that we as trainers are confronted with during our daily routine."

Buy at the BMC shop: http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=6964

Finger and elbow injuries seem to be frustratingly common amongst climbers. There's some very useful info in this article, and if it's any help, I've personally found physiotherapy 'resistance bands' (often sold as "Theraband") useful for light rehab, and eccentrics.

First of a four part series on Core training from the excellent Training Centre pages, hosted on nicros.com.

My new blog, with a focus on rock climbing specific training articles, gear, and books...