It is a question I am frequently asked by clients who have heard about the rapid expansion of new hotels. So first of all some background.
I first visited Bali 30 years ago, when it attracted just a few Australian surf enthusiasts and hardly any Europeans. Gradually over the years, it increased its popularity, both regionally and internationally, and by the early 90’s, it was firmly established as one of the major destinations in Asia. Initially tourism was focused in the Sanur area, or for the younger surfing crowd, Kuta. Both are located in the southern point of the island, on opposite sides of the peninsular. Kuta then gradually expanded to include the much more upscale Seminyak area.
At the same time Jimbaran, which is still in my view the best swimming beach on the island, slowly expanded, but the main focus was in Nusa Dua, a purpose built manicured resort estate with many of the larger chain hotels, as well as some delightful off beach boutique resorts.
Ubud, located one hour drive inland, has grown from a resort with just a handful of hotels when I first visited to now well over 100 properties, but as land is limited – and expensive – most of the new hotels tended to be small, upscale and blended seamlessly into the incredible tropical scenery.
All of the aforementioned are in the southern part of the island, meaning the remaining coasts have in reality seen very little serious development, the occasional flurry of small hotels, but nothing substantial.
I feel privileged to have seen Bali at what I consider to be its most attractive stage, but that is me making comparisons year on year. What I will say is that professionally I am not allowed favourite destinations – however if I were, Bali would still be right up there. Yes it has its pockets of tourism excess, and Kuta is an acquired taste. Also the southern part of Nusa Dua has been earmarked for even more development. This started last year with the opening of The Mulia with 1000 plus rooms, and frankly not my style at all. Everything I dislike about large hotels, but the room quality is good to be fair.
This is now the template for new developments and in the next 2 years you will have the openings of Ritz-Carlton, Kempinski, and I hear Shangri –La, Fairmont, Raffles – all mega luxury “monsters“ in a long line. The cranes have moved from Dubai to find a new home in South Nusa Dua!
So is Bali ruined because of this? Well, no…
Once you leave these areas, the island is still magical. Bali is blessed with its people, probably the most genuine smiles in the region, and its instant culture that exists alongside tourism. You still see national dress, but it is what they wear on a day to day basis, it not for a tourist Kodak moment. A girl taking offerings to the shrine in the hotel garden is what they do – it is not to impress you – but they are more than happy to share the occasion. And linguistically, they are talented, so even with the gardener you can have a pleasant and informative conversation.
The new motorway “Florida Everglades” type bridge linking the airport to the resorts of Sanur, Nusa Dua and Jimbaran is most impressive, and has reduced most of the journey time to a manageable 30 minutes.
So yes, in places the construction will be noticeable and, from a personal point of view, not in the best possible taste. But that is me preferring hotels that are smaller and maybe more individual. However, most of the island remains wonderfully magical and incredibly romantic on all levels. There are still many hide and chic retreats, some just minutes away from mass tourism but light-years in terms of appeal.
Final pointers – the beaches in Bali are generally OK, but with the exception of Jimbaran, nothing to get too excited about. Neighbouring Lombok has a much better selection. But for the culture, the people, the cuisine and the scenery, Bali remains an amazing destination.