reptiles, amphibians, & more!

Medium Wacom Intuos Pro for sale. $100, negotiable (free shipping in USA) Comes will everything above. Great shape, minor scuffs. New pen. Works great as well.

Selling cuz I upgraded to a Kamvas.

 ::DISCLAIMER::

   I am by absolutely no means an expert, and before you get any animal, it is advised that you do an adequate amount of research so that you can care for it properly. Please do not rely on only my sources to care for your animal, as you will need to do a bunch more research. To impulsively buy an animal without knowing anything about how to care for it is wrong and irresponsible on your part. What works for me may not work for you, and you will learn this through trial and error. (This is not my original image, credit to the original photographer also DONT PUT BEARDIES OF DIFFERENT SIZES TOGETHER, the bigger one will eat the small one and you will not have a good time)

Bearded Dragons

  Bearded dragons are some of the most easily available pet lizards you can get. While they can be rather expensive while getting all the supplies and the actual animal, it is well worth it if you are looking for a personable animal that you can bond with very easily. Not only are they personable, but also easy to care for once you get the hang of it. They aren’t particularly needy and in my opinion, in the top 3 easiest to keep lizards you can find. These animals do require more than the regular leopard gecko, however they are pretty much tiny, scaly dogs.

Experience Level: Beginner

Origin: Australia

Temperament: Docile, usually very food driven.

Size: Around 2″ of hatching out of the egg, but can easily reach 20″-24″ as adults.

Expenses: Overall, you will spend anywhere from $300-$400 on everything (not counting monthly food). The initial bearded dragon cost will normally be on average $50-100, but can fluctuate depending on where you buy from, and what color morph. Please understand that it is very expensive to house any animal, and you should not buy an animal if you can not support it.

Heating/Lighting: Unlike other beginner lizards or snakes, bearded dragons require both UVB and UVA lighting. If UVB (essentially sunlight in a bulb) is not provided, your scaly friend can develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). UVA comes with a regular day light basking bulb, and is essential to provide heat so that your bearded dragon can function properly and pass food. There shouldn’t be a need for a UTH or red/blue/night heat bulb, unless you are looking to heat up a very cold part in your Bearded Dragons enclosure, or at night in the winter, however it is best to have a wide range of temperatures within the enclosure and these heat sources should not be needed otherwise. PLEASE NOTE: Do not buy the “swirl” UVB bulbs for your bearded dragon, they are too bright and can burn your bearded dragon’s eyes. The strip bulbs from Repti-Sun is a very good brand.

Temperatures: As babies, bearded dragons should have a basking spot of around 92-95 degrees Fahrenheit, and the cool side of the enclosure at room temperature (68-74 degrees Fahrenheit). As sub-adults, you can increase this basking temperature to 100-102 degrees.

Humidity: Because bearded dragons are originally from the desert, they are not in need of any special humidity. Ideally, humidity should be around 30-35%, and just having a water bowl should meet these needs. If your humidity is too high, it can lead to an upper respiratory infection (URI). Stay away from glass or plastic lids to your enclosure, and be sure there is plenty of ventilation. (Often times, Beardies enjoy baths!)

Housing: Because of the size difference in baby to adult, there will be some required “upgrading” of tanks. If you put a baby in a 40 gal breeder, it will be less inclined to eat and bask and more likely to hide away. Because of this, as a baby you will be good with a 10 gallon, as a juvenile a 20-25 gallon, and as a sub-adult you can upgrade to their final needed size, a 40 gallon breeder (yes, you can go larger on an adult if you would like). If you happen to have a German Giant beardie, you will need somewhere around 60 gallons. Because bearded dragons will spend most of their time on the ground, it is important to find an enclosure that has more floor space than it does height. Males should never be kept with other males or other females, however under the right circumstances, female bearded dragons can be kept with females (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR BEGINNERS).

Substrate: Many people keep their bearded dragons on sand (calci-sand is just as bad), claiming they can just “bask it out”, however you are still putting your bearded dragon at risk for impaction (not being able to pass food, and getting sick and possibly dying). Bearded dragons use their tongues to get used to their surroundings, so even if you are not feeding on the loose particle substrate, they will still ingest it. Because of this, you should not keep your beardie on any sort of loose-particle substrate that is small enough for them to ingest (sand, calci/repti sand, moss, etc.). Ground coconut fibers is generally okay, but you are not in need of excess humidity, and it is hard to keep up with and messy. Your best options are paper towels, newspaper (the ink will make them dirty), tiles, or reptile carpet.

Diet: Bearded dragons are omnivores, meaning they need both vegetables and protein in their diet (meaning insects). There are a lot of safe and unsafe vegetables and fruit that bearded dragons can and can’t digest. As babies, they should have 35% veggies and 65% insects, and as they get older, around 40% insects and 60% veggies. The main intake of their vegetables should be dandelion greens, mustard greens, and cauliflower greens, however things such as romaine and iceberg lettuce have no nutritional value (good for getting babies to stay hydrated, though!). Bearded dragons also should get Calcium with D3 on their salads and on their insects. Staple insects include crickets, dubia roaches, phoenix worms, and superworms (only for sub-adult+!), treats include wax worms, butter worms, and horn worms (sub-adult+). Mealworms should never be fed to baby or juvenile bearded dragons because of the worm’s hard exoskeleton makes it hard to digest and can lead to impaction. Here is a list of safe and unsafe food: http://www.thebeardeddragon.org/bearded-dragon-diet.php

Common Illnesses: Please take your animal to the vet if you notice any of these things happening to your animal. Impaction is when your animal ingests small fibers or something and cannot digest it, so it may clog and get stuck in the lining of the intestines, which can lead to not pooping, bloody poops, lack of appetite, non-digested foods, and can lead to death. Metabolic Bone Disease is when your animal is not getting enough sun, vitamins, or calcium and it causes the bones to essentially turn into jello, the muscles spasm uncontrollably and you may notice a lack of movement, can be fatal if left untreated. Upper Respiratory infections are caused when there is too much humidity, smoke/residue in the air (do not burn candles or incense or spray anything in the air), or dust (from sand). This can lead to eye crusties, nose and mouth bubbles, mouth rot, and if left untreated, death. Blood Mites (VERY CONTAGIOUS) are also sometimes an issue, mites are sneaky little buttholes that hide under scales, in noses/ears, or vents (butts) of your animal, that if left untreated, can kill beardies. They are small black or brown dots that are caused by unclean bedding/enclosure, leftover food, other animals, etc. When you are buying from anyone, run your hand along the entire body in one swipe and check in all the spots they may be, before placing into the enclosure/buying if you can. Luckily, mites are easily treatable (as in you can go to the pet store to buy it), however difficult to get rid of. Parasites are an issue, and if you see lack of appetite, bloody stool, or lack of gaining weight, take them to the vet IMMEDIATELY with a stool sample that has been passed within the past 24 hours.

Unmentioned/Fun Facts:

Where to buy: (Please be sure to know how to tell the difference between a healthy and unhealthy animal before buying) When buying any “exotic” animal, it is best to stay away from mass producers such as PetSmart or PetCo. This is because the majority of the time, you are buying a sick or unhealthy animal and you never know the history of the parents. The employees are also told to essentially bullshit their way through the conversation, just to make a few extra sales (majority of employees are like that, not all, just 99.9%). The best places to get animals from are rescues, adoption agencies, or (the best option for beginners) BUY ONLINE FROM A BREEDER! Not only are you guaranteed the health and background of the animal, but you also get a better selection. Breeders to stay away from are Underground Reptiles, LLLReptiles, and Backwater Reptiles. Remember to do your research on the breeders themselves as well! I recommend Daichu Dragons, Fire and Ice Dragons, and Atomic Lizard Ranch.

I’ll cut right to the chase, 8k followers and its damn well time I do something like a give away to say thanks. This raffle is not affiliated with tumblr.com or its owners/staff members. 

You must be following me to enter this. You must be 18+ to enter this

Raffle ends October 31st. Winners will be dm’d, so make sure you have tumblr messenger enabled.

First place winner gets a torso up, full render

Second place winner gets a torso up, colored sketch

Third place gets a torso up sketch

Terms of Service apply in regards to what I will and will not draw. Only catch,  it will be one character only. I can draw canon characters, fan characters, or original characters, or I can design you a character. You can also ask for a custom of one of my closed species upon winning. The choice will be yours on what you request.

You MUST be following me to enter this raffle. You can reblog several times and like to enter, but please refrain from spam-reblogging as I will disqualify you for that. Do NOT reblog to raffle/spam blogs.

Hello everyone! I wanted to do a little give away for my amazing followers <3

I will be giving away 3 pieces of artwork <3

~RULES~

- You must be following me for starters. This is for my followers!

- You must have a reference sheet or clear drawing of the character! Multiple pieces of art preferred but not required.

- Reblogs are the only thing that counts as an entry. Sideblogs welcomed, but one per blog will be counted.

-Winners will be randomly chosen by a randomizing website. They will be chosen Sunday, September 24th at 6pm mountain time. 

What I WILL draw

• Monsters/Demons • Humanoids/Furries/Anthros • Feral animals (all species) • Original Species (yours or not) • NSFW: nude, sexual poses, mild fetishes, vore… • Gore, blood, etc• Gifts for other people

What I will NOT draw

• Humans • R*pe fantasies, menophilia, emetophilia, etc… • Characters you aren’t allowed to use/stolen characters *Note that I will only do sexual NSFW pieces for those who are at least 18 years old!

____________________________

PRIZES:

1st Place: A full rendered image, including clean lines, color, shading, and a background OR a custom design.

2nd Place: A chibi OR a bust, full rendered as well.

3rd place: A sketched chibi OR an icon.

We have reached a milestone and I’m giving away 3 pieces of free art!! Thank you all so much for your support, likes, reblogs, sweet messages and constructive criticism!! Also for supporting me through my commissions. I couldn’t have done it without all you and can’t thank you enough!!

This is a rough example of what the style/example of the art you have a possibility of receiving:

(art by me, character is Mesa owned by Hensa/Waitress)

RULES:

Before we get to the prizes i just have a few guidelines to help me out more as an artist, giving this free art away!

-Must be following me (New followers are welcome!!)

- i will only do feral or anthro (no humans/humanoids sorry :( )

- MUST HAVE A CLEAR REFERENCE SHEET!! I would HIGHLY prefer a digital one over a traditional one but if you have a traditional reference sheet and can send me a CLEAR digital color palette thats okay! REFERENCE SHEETS MUST INCLUDE A CLEAR COLOR PALETTE OF CHARACTER OR HAVE NO SHADING. Shading makes the colors unclear, and would require more editing. This makes it easier on my end!

- Reblogs count only! You can like but it wont count as an entry

-feel free to reblog multiple times and even on side blogs, but each blog will only be entered in once!

-please no hate towards the winners, they are drawn at random not picked for a specific reason other then to show thanks to all my followers!

-winners will be announced next Saturday (September 9th) anywhere from 12am to 2am EASTERN Time!!

PRIZES:

1st place: A couples image (in style shown above) that includes shading, extra details and an optional background!

2nd Place: 1 character fullbody image(in style shown above) that includes shading, extra details and a simple bg!

3rd Place: Headshot/Bust/Icon OR Chibi (in style shown up above) thag includes shading, extra details and a simple bg!

Note: you can ask for a transparent version if you’d like that!!

Reptile, Axolotl and Creepy Crawlies Necklaces by BIRCH pls on Etsy

See our ‘jewelry’ tag

WESTERN HOGNOSE FOR SALE

ID: HOG11-17 SEX: Male MORPH: Red Phase Albino PAIRING: Onyx x Garnet (Anaconda het. Albino X Extreme Red het. Albino) HATCH DATE: 5/31/2017 WEIGHT: 6g at hatching, will update with recent weight when he’s empty EATING: unscented f/t pinkies COMMENTS: Very clean pattern

PRICE: $175 + Shipping (Shipping is accomplished via ShipYourReptiles.com and usually runs between $45-65)

Please review my Terms and Conditions before inquiring. I cannot sell or ship hognoses to residents of Colorado and Illinois customers must have the appropriate permit in place.

I would like to get two more meals in him before shipping, which would make him available to ship by 7/17/2017. Please keep in mind that shipping may be delayed due to the summer weather. 

Don’t peep on me…