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@cornysnake
First babies of the year! Snow eclipse and snow raptor with some cool funky patterning to them.
Look at those good babies! I wonder how they might turn out when their mature patterning comes in? o3o
Probably somewhere between mom and dad!
Here’s the big boy
And mom is the one to the very top left corner with the funky pattern.
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
Free to watch • No registration required • HD streaming
First babies of the year! Snow eclipse and snow raptor with some cool funky patterning to them.
Vincent (2017 female leucistic texas rat snake), Marcus (2017 male het leucistic texas rat snake), and Queen B (2015 female scaleless texas rat snake)
My trio of texas rats! I’m thinking about adding another male scaleless to the group and possibly hypo or albino to the mix at some point. I’ve been really enjoying the hardiness and personality of the entire group.
(the gunk on queens mouth is just a scaleless thing - she’s headed into shed which seems to trigger the dried saliva build up)
Hey, do you know what it means when reptile keepers ut like "1.1 reticulated python, 0.1 ball pythons, 2.0 crested gecko" in their bio or somewhere on their account? Is it about morphs orrrr
It’s about the sexes of the animals! 1.0 is a singular male, 0.1 is a singular female, and 0.0.1 is an unsexed animal. So for example 2.4.1 corn snakes would be 2 male, 4 female, and 1 unsexed corn snake. :)
Delilah is getting big and fat! She’s since lost most of her sassiness and is a calm and gentle animal overall. She’s about 5 feet long and a bit over 2kg now - a long ways from the 130 grams she weighed when I got her!
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
Free to watch • No registration required • HD streaming
Long time no post, here’s some quick pics of Chainsaw turning into a gorgeous beastie
Cayenne and my white as hell arms lmao
She’s huge and GORGEOUS!!!
I'm pretty concerned about my corn snake. He's about 7 years old, about to shed, and he's sounds like he's sneezing. He'll do it 3-4 times when I pick him up, and I've heard him do it several times randomly in his enclosure. I may be imagining things but his throats looks a tiny bit swollen? I also haven't been handling him much this summer, so could it be a defensive noise? Please help ;-;
It’s not terribly uncommon for corns to make sneezing noises when in shed, but if this persists after shed or you’re seeing any mucus I’d seek veterinary attention! Sneezing while in shed is typically caused by the nasal passages being restricted from the extra layer of skin, but if there’s a ton of mucus in his mouth or nostrils then it’s not being caused by being in shed.Sorry for being a couple days late, I don’t really log into tumblr much these days.
i came here from another blog hopeing to find corn snake things and im so lost on so many things, i didnt know there was so many types im a certain breed and i see like hundered of ball pythons and black lace pythons and i have no idea what it means,,, help
i know theres snow corn snakes and lavender corn snakes and i know my corn isnt either of those and i was wondering if i could submit a picture of him and you could possibly tell me if you knew what kind of corn snake he is
Hey! It’s alright to be confused, color variations can be super confusing! One of the things that helped me a whole lot when I was first learning about corn snake morphs is Ian’s Vivarium (link). All morphs just are simple genes, and most of them don’t change a corn in any other way than the color is is.
You can absolutely send me a picture of your corn and I could identify him but I’d need a picture of his whole body from above, a picture of his eyes/face, and a picture of his belly all in natural light to tell you. :)
It is troubling there are popular Super Snow leopard gecko breeders in reptiblr and no one says ANYTHING. The head deformities are worse than super cinnamons in ball pythons, and they often have neuro flipping issues too. I don't know why these people get away with torture breeding and no one says a thing about it! If these were ball python breeders on here, I would hope they'd catch some flack posting deformed animals and continuing to breed these faulty lines. No morph is worth this.
Does anyone have proof of this…? I’ve never ever heard of SS having any genetic issues. Even the one I had a while back didn’t seem to have any deformities or neurological issues…?
honestly, this is one of the ugliest secrets of leopard geckos. I can confirm, with over 20 years of experience, that some of this is true.
When they were first bred, super snows were an exceptionally weak morph. Failure to thrive was very common and, for a while, it was assumed that it was a lethal combo. The original super snows were SUPER inbred, which didn’t help at all.
Careful breeding has resulted in an animal who can actually survive, but the morph continues to have problems. They’re frequently slow growers and picky eaters. Skull deformities are VERY common. You’ll notice a lot of super snows have very flat skulls compared to other morphs.
Neurological issues are uncommon, thankfully. At least visual neurological issues are uncommon. It’s possible that the poor appetite is, in and of itself, a neurological symptom.
With proper and careful breeding, I believe this morph could be cleared of issues, just as the WY morph can be cleared of WY syndrome. But that won’t happen while people don’t talk OPENLY about this. And it’s a pain in the ass to get super snow breeders talking about the problems, just like most other morph issues. Not ALL super snows have these issues but, believe me, it was a long road to get to this point and I worry about it being reversed.
^^^ What bluebell said above!
Unfortunately a lot of people who are working with super snow aren’t picking their breeders from quality stock and then go and sell subpar, deformed super snows as healthy breeder animals. Which results in these poor quality animals going on to breed and producing even more poorly bred animals.
Super snows issues are primarily rooted in just how horribly inbred the morph was/is. Carefully bred super snows do not exhibit or pass on these traits so long as those animals are bred to other well bred animals. I haven’t had issues with any of my well bred super snows thus far.
I really don’t understand where the “super snows have neuro issues” thing is about considering I’ve seen maybe two super snows with issues and both had super smashed looking skulls that likely led to those issues. One or two neuro animals does not a neuro linked morph make yo.
Stuff like this has happened with morphs of other species too such as both lavender and bloodred in corn snakes both starting off as weak morphs but are now as strong and healthy as any other morph out there for the most part (lavenders are still kink prone). What’s important is people don’t ruin all the work that’s been done with the morph by breeding crappy deformed super snows.
There’s a difference between a weak, inbred morph that can be improved with careful breeding and genetic issues linked to the gene itself (enigma for example).
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
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Picking and choosing who you correct because people are your internet friends is weird to me. I want my friends to do what’s best for their animals so you should.. try to help them? Not defend them when they’re doing something obviously wrong. You don’t have to correct them publicly but when they get backlash for issues that are true it’s like ?? If someone new comes into the reptiblr picture we have essays written about how “shitty” they are. I’ve seen people on here let their leopard geckos toes rot off from stuck shed. The force feeding issue for animals that are obviously stressed. The old hognose popping photo.. You can’t have it both ways.
New babies! Super snow het raptor, snow raptor, snow murphy patternless het tremper 66% het eclipse, and snow tremper murphy patternless 66% het eclipse.
I have no idea where the murphy came from and I’m not really happy about it since that could get in the way in a lot of my projects but I’ll work around it.
Babies are not housed together, photos are to log clutch mates.
In the comment chain you rebloged with I m snek, I saw you have a gorgeous reddish brown and blonde ball python(third picture) what morph is that beauty?
The snake in that photo is my mojave! That photo has a weird red wash to it, here’s a more accurate photo of her.
people were saying you powerfed leli when you got her, is that true?
I never power fed Leliana?? When I got her she was very slightly underweight, so when I was feeding the proper amount it meant she gained weight back quickly and held on to it. She was eating 15-20% of her weight once a week, as per all bps that size. Here’s a pic:
See how her spine was sticking out a bit? She wasn’t emaciated but she definitely was not eating as much as she should have been at her age. Now that she is an adult, she eats 10-15% of her body weight every two weeks. Compare that to her babies at a similar weight range:
A good loaf shape with no spine sticking up.Where are people getting these assumptions? And why are people not approaching me about them? If people ask me to privately answer something I will always respect that so they don’t get attacked.
@wheremyscalesslither (sorry, I know you’re on vacation) and @odorpatrol, maybe you guys would like to chime in?
Leliana looks like a healthy hatchling in that picture, the spine isn’t stuck out so much I’d call her underweight. I also want some clarification on the loaf-shape comment? I thought that was more applied to Boa constrictor, B. imperator, and related subspecies rather than ball pythons. I read ball pythons are similar to short tail pythons in that the spine should always be slightly visible and the body cross-section should be like a rounded off triangle?
Since I’m a beep keeper, chiming in. Poik is right, Leli looks very healthy in that photo, bels often look thinner than they actually are due to being solid white. The body condition of both animals in those photos actually looks nearly the same to me, except the baby is younger and justifiably rounder as babies tend to be.
Again, you’re right Poik that ball pythons should not be a round loaf shape, but a rounded triangle much like blood pythons but less extreme.
Feeding 15-20% weekly for a juvenile, 300+ gram ball python honestly is excesive. For up to 200 grams it might be okay, but feeding that much weekly results in extremely rapid growth. Yes, It’s normal practice but having had animals die of fatty liver disease on these kinds of diets, I advise against it. I aim for a 500 gram weight increase yearly for my ball pythons to get them to breeding condition at 4 years old to ensure proper development.
Here are some photos of ideal ball python weights.
(source)
(source)
(mine)
(mine)
(mine)
Notice that all of these animals have a peak to their spine? This is healthy and normal.
Actually if you note this female I bought a couple months back, who almost entirely lacks this important ridge was morbidly obese and extremely squishy all over. She had fat pads all along her sides and back that were clearly palpable. She was this fat while still having a somewhat distinguishable spinal ridge.
Thank you very much for your input! This was two years ago, so while I can’t change what I did back then I can take in to account what you’ve said for future reference as well. Would you say that it still effects her in the present? She has been on proper diet for two years now (10-15% of body weight every two weeks)
Oh yeah no worries! God knows I’ve made some terrible keeping mistakes in the past myself. Honestly, I feed my bps more closely how boas are properly fed (take a look at crispysnakes’s guide there if you’re curious). They go through major bodily changes while feeding, so I allow a full digestive cycle plus another week tacked on before feeding my ball pythons of any age again. This typically takes 3-5 weeks depending on the time of year and how my ball pythons are temp cycling. Since switching to this type of schedule, I haven’t had an obese animal, breeding complications, or any sort of feeding strike even with my males. They’re healthier, more active, more muscular and overall more vigorous. Yes. that kind of feeding schedule can and will negatively affect ball pythons into adulthood, especially those immediately bred at 3 years old in my experience. In fact the ball python female I had who died of fatty liver, didn’t succumb to the bodily harm done to her from overfeeding and immediate breeding til a year and a half after I owned her despite taking it slow getting her into shape and not breeding her myself. She died right around breeding season, and had follicles during her necropsy, I feel that might have been one of the stressors to her body that lead to her sudden death. This event is what lead me to the feeding and breeding schedules I use now to ensure a tragedy like that doesn’t happen here again. I am NOT an expert but these are just my experiences with dealing with a ball python who ultimately succumbed to fatty liver after being overfed to get her to breeding size at her 3 year mark. She was barely 5 years old when she died. :(
I appreciate it! We’ve all been new keepers, haha. I am incredibly sorry for your loss, that is absolutely awful :( While I don’t believe Leliana was that bad, I think I will adjust all the beeps feeding schedules to be more like that just in case. I do believe they actually live longer healthier lives when fed less often (I think I heard of a boa getting to 40 years old being fed once a month or so?) Do you think I should give Leliana more time before pairing her again? I was planning on pairing her and Rhea once he got out of quarantine but I think I might wait till the dead of winter instead when she’s had more time to rest?
No problem! No shame in making mistakes, it’s fixing or at least acknowledging them that ultimately matters in my opinion. Even experienced keepers mess up sometimes, it happens fam. It was a long time ago, it’s ok! I’m just glad that I learned from it. I too feel snakes are healthiest when fed less often, but often enough to keep them in good shape of course. Even if it takes 4-5 years for a snake to hit my ideal breeding weight that’s okay with me as long as they grow healthily tbh Personally, I’d wait a full season (so yeah you’d begin breeding in late winter for leli) between breedings after a female’s first time. A seasoned female who’s been given adequate breaks between previous breedings can often breed back to back without burning out. I like to be better safe than sorry especially with females who are very dear to my heart though, as breeding will take years off their life no matter what and there’s always a chance for complications. Will it kill her to breed her 6 months early? Probably not, but a full seasons wait is safer for an unseasoned female, especially after a fairly large first clutch!
people were saying you powerfed leli when you got her, is that true?
I never power fed Leliana?? When I got her she was very slightly underweight, so when I was feeding the proper amount it meant she gained weight back quickly and held on to it. She was eating 15-20% of her weight once a week, as per all bps that size. Here’s a pic:
See how her spine was sticking out a bit? She wasn’t emaciated but she definitely was not eating as much as she should have been at her age. Now that she is an adult, she eats 10-15% of her body weight every two weeks. Compare that to her babies at a similar weight range:
A good loaf shape with no spine sticking up.Where are people getting these assumptions? And why are people not approaching me about them? If people ask me to privately answer something I will always respect that so they don’t get attacked.
@wheremyscalesslither (sorry, I know you’re on vacation) and @odorpatrol, maybe you guys would like to chime in?
Leliana looks like a healthy hatchling in that picture, the spine isn’t stuck out so much I’d call her underweight. I also want some clarification on the loaf-shape comment? I thought that was more applied to Boa constrictor, B. imperator, and related subspecies rather than ball pythons. I read ball pythons are similar to short tail pythons in that the spine should always be slightly visible and the body cross-section should be like a rounded off triangle?
Since I’m a beep keeper, chiming in. Poik is right, Leli looks very healthy in that photo, bels often look thinner than they actually are due to being solid white. The body condition of both animals in those photos actually looks nearly the same to me, except the baby is younger and justifiably rounder as babies tend to be.
Again, you’re right Poik that ball pythons should not be a round loaf shape, but a rounded triangle much like blood pythons but less extreme.
Feeding 15-20% weekly for a juvenile, 300+ gram ball python honestly is excesive. For up to 200 grams it might be okay, but feeding that much weekly results in extremely rapid growth. Yes, It’s normal practice but having had animals die of fatty liver disease on these kinds of diets, I advise against it. I aim for a 500 gram weight increase yearly for my ball pythons to get them to breeding condition at 4 years old to ensure proper development.
Here are some photos of ideal ball python weights.
(source)
(source)
(mine)
(mine)
(mine)
Notice that all of these animals have a peak to their spine? This is healthy and normal.
Actually if you note this female I bought a couple months back, who almost entirely lacks this important ridge was morbidly obese and extremely squishy all over. She had fat pads all along her sides and back that were clearly palpable. She was this fat while still having a somewhat distinguishable spinal ridge.
Thank you very much for your input! This was two years ago, so while I can’t change what I did back then I can take in to account what you’ve said for future reference as well. Would you say that it still effects her in the present? She has been on proper diet for two years now (10-15% of body weight every two weeks)
Oh yeah no worries! God knows I’ve made some terrible keeping mistakes in the past myself. Honestly, I feed my bps more closely how boas are properly fed (take a look at crispysnakes’s guide there if you’re curious). They go through major bodily changes while feeding, so I allow a full digestive cycle plus another week tacked on before feeding my ball pythons of any age again. This typically takes 3-5 weeks depending on the time of year and how my ball pythons are temp cycling. Since switching to this type of schedule, I haven’t had an obese animal, breeding complications, or any sort of feeding strike even with my males. They’re healthier, more active, more muscular and overall more vigorous. Yes. that kind of feeding schedule can and will negatively affect ball pythons into adulthood, especially those immediately bred at 3 years old in my experience. In fact the ball python female I had who died of fatty liver, didn’t succumb to the bodily harm done to her from overfeeding and immediate breeding til a year and a half after I owned her despite taking it slow getting her into shape and not breeding her myself. She died right around breeding season, and had follicles during her necropsy, I feel that might have been one of the stressors to her body that lead to her sudden death. This event is what lead me to the feeding and breeding schedules I use now to ensure a tragedy like that doesn’t happen here again. I am NOT an expert but these are just my experiences with dealing with a ball python who ultimately succumbed to fatty liver after being overfed to get her to breeding size at her 3 year mark. She was barely 5 years old when she died. :(
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
Free to watch • No registration required • HD streaming
people were saying you powerfed leli when you got her, is that true?
I never power fed Leliana?? When I got her she was very slightly underweight, so when I was feeding the proper amount it meant she gained weight back quickly and held on to it. She was eating 15-20% of her weight once a week, as per all bps that size. Here’s a pic:
See how her spine was sticking out a bit? She wasn’t emaciated but she definitely was not eating as much as she should have been at her age. Now that she is an adult, she eats 10-15% of her body weight every two weeks. Compare that to her babies at a similar weight range:
A good loaf shape with no spine sticking up.Where are people getting these assumptions? And why are people not approaching me about them? If people ask me to privately answer something I will always respect that so they don’t get attacked.
@wheremyscalesslither (sorry, I know you’re on vacation) and @odorpatrol, maybe you guys would like to chime in?
Leliana looks like a healthy hatchling in that picture, the spine isn’t stuck out so much I’d call her underweight. I also want some clarification on the loaf-shape comment? I thought that was more applied to Boa constrictor, B. imperator, and related subspecies rather than ball pythons. I read ball pythons are similar to short tail pythons in that the spine should always be slightly visible and the body cross-section should be like a rounded off triangle?
Since I’m a beep keeper, chiming in. Poik is right, Leli looks very healthy in that photo, bels often look thinner than they actually are due to being solid white. The body condition of both animals in those photos actually looks nearly the same to me, except the baby is younger and justifiably rounder as babies tend to be.
Again, you’re right Poik that ball pythons should not be a round loaf shape, but a rounded triangle much like blood pythons but less extreme.
Feeding 15-20% weekly for a juvenile, 300+ gram ball python honestly is excesive. For up to 200 grams it might be okay, but feeding that much weekly results in extremely rapid growth. Yes, It’s normal practice but having had animals die of fatty liver disease on these kinds of diets, I advise against it. I aim for a 500 gram weight increase yearly for my ball pythons to get them to breeding condition at 4 years old to ensure proper development.
Here are some photos of ideal ball python weights.
(source)
(source)
(mine)
(mine)
(mine)
Notice that all of these animals have a peak to their spine? This is healthy and normal.
Actually if you note this female I bought a couple months back, who almost entirely lacks this important ridge was morbidly obese and extremely squishy all over. She had fat pads all along her sides and back that were clearly palpable. She was this fat while still having a somewhat distinguishable spinal ridge.
I still have a few available babies from last year’s clutches! These boys are growing up strong, feeding wonderfully on f/t. Their information is found in my available album when you click on their pictures! Please PM me here or on Facebook if you have any questions or are interested in one of these kids.
