Prettiest die Iāve seen in a while.
This hollow metal d20 has the figure of a roaring dragon contained within.

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@bardicwhispers
Prettiest die Iāve seen in a while.
This hollow metal d20 has the figure of a roaring dragon contained within.

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D&D players, reblog this post and say if youāre the oldest, middle, youngest, or only child, and what class you normally play (or if you DM). Itās for Science
oldest & bard, obviously
Oldest & whatever the campaign needs.
A glittering, sunlit hoard... 24th April, 2020.
Five new (to me) lab sets from Chessex. Gemini Translucent Red-Yellow/gold, Gemini Gel Green-Pink/blue, Leaf Fuschia/yellow, Gemini Copper-Turquoise/white, and Gemini Red-White/blue.
REBLOG IF I CAN MESSAGE YOU 'HEY' AND START A FRIENDSHIP.

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Another picture of the MGD engraved opalite dice with their matching box and dice tray.
Full hoard, Jan 31st.
I got these two sets of unfinished dice from Die Hard Dice because i want to try some different inking colors. Only one problem... I donāt know how to finish them. I have watched a couple YouTube videos but Iām hoping I donāt really need all that equipment because Iām not making my own dice, I just want to smooth the edges off and ink them. So, anyone have any tips for me?
Get one of those manicure buffing blocks that have a different size grit on each side. Start with the roughest and work up to the smoothest. I like to lay the block flat on a surface and rub the die face on it (rather than the other way around), and donāt put any pressure on it. You donāt want to file it *down*, just buff it, so let the grit do the work. I like to do one entire die at one grit all over, rinse and dry it, then turn the block to the next highest grit and start over from there (instead of doing a single face at a time). Just rinse and dry between each grit.
I canāt quite tell for sure from these pics, but these dice look like they might be transparent when theyāre done? If thatās the case, you might want to get some plastic polish to really shine them up good in the end. A brand like Flitz will do you just fine. Or you can get a jewelersā polishing cloth. Use it after youāve done all sides of the manicure block, and rinse afterward. (If you use Flitz, you might need to use a toothpick to scrape it out of the numbers when youāre rinsing.)
When youāre ready to ink, just pick a paint you like, dab it on the die face (make sure to get the paint into the number crevice), then turn the painted face face-down on a flat paper towel and wipe in one swipe. The paint on the surface of the face will wipe off, while the paint inside the number crevices will stay in place. With the exception of the d4, the more faces a die has, the shallower the number crevices tend to be; d20s are especially annoying, and you might need to make a second pass after the first dries.
Once youāre done painting, you can clean up the die faces with a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol if needed. DO NOT use acetone or nail polish remover, it can eat away at the die or permanently soften the surface. After youāve cleaned it all up, if thereās any remaining haziness, hit it with the Flitz or polishing cloth again.
Itās a tedious process but the kind of thing you can do while youāre watching a movie or something.
Thanks @bixbiboom !! I have a couple of the manicure blocks I think youāre talking about. The dice are slightly transparent so I will check out your recommendations on polishing.
One question - one of the sets is described as āfrostedā and currently reminds me of seaglass. Will sanding and polishing remove that luster? Is that luster supposed to be removed?
I got these two sets of unfinished dice from Die Hard Dice because i want to try some different inking colors. Only one problem... I donāt know how to finish them. I have watched a couple YouTube videos but Iām hoping I donāt really need all that equipment because Iām not making my own dice, I just want to smooth the edges off and ink them. So, anyone have any tips for me?

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My complete collection of D&D sourcebooks. My local games store has 1/2 4e stuff so I picked up some things for monster inspiration and such.
So, for some reason, I really like Spellscales. I donāt remember how I came across them since they are from 3e and Iāve only ever played 5e, but somehow I did. Theyāre from a book called āRaces of the Dragonā which, as the title suggests, covers a few different draconic player-races. The book also has a section on a very different sort of Dragonborn that also intrigues me but no nearly as much as the Spellscales.
Iāll provide a brief overview for anyone not familiar with the Spellscale. In the artwork, they look rather like purple or blue-skinned elves. They also arenāt really a race since they are born from two sorcerers even if the sorcerers are a human and a half-orc or something. They get a +2 bonus to Charisma and a -2 debuff to Constitution. They can see in low light conditions. They are considered dragons for racial effects. Their preferred class is Sorcerer and they have something called a āBlood Quickeningā which is basically a daily devotion to a draconic deity that grants them some sort of bonus for the day (based on which draconic deity they prayed to that day).
In order to rework them for 5e, Iāve created a new origin story for them that actually makes them a race and not the happenstance of a double dose of inherently magical genetics. Iām also altering their appearance somewhat and giving them a few subraces. I am keeping the Blood Quickening (which seems to me to be the biggest distinguishing feature of the race) but changing the bonuses to make the Spellscale a more versatile race. I would be grateful for feedback from more experienced players on my draft (below).
SPELLSCALE (5e)
Legend has it that the first of the Spellscale race were the three sons of two exceedingly vain and evil sorcerers. Entirely too pleased with their own features and cruel behavior, their monstrous natures were written into the appearance of their children. Appalled at seeing their own villainy reflected back at them in the faces of their offspring, the sorcerers gave the infants to one of their soldiers along with the order to take them into the woods and slaughter them.
However, the soldier had recently lost a child and could not bear to kill the innocent babes. He consulted with his wife and they agreed to leave the three boys at a temple though they knew their lives would be forfeit if the deceit was discovered. The soldier travelled a full day, hoping that leaving the children at a further temple would lessen the chances of their survival being discovered. He left them in a temple of Bahamut where he hoped their draconic features would be celebrated rather than reviled.
The three infants were found by devotees of Bahamut and, as the soldier had hoped, their appearance was believed to be a blassing from the Platinum Dragon. The boys were given the names of Ornoth, Aurixoth, and Uxmolik and raised in the ideals of Bahamut. They grew to be fine young men and eventually went out into the world to seek their own fortunes. Despite their parentage, they each had an affable and easygoing disposition that allowed them to make friends and lovers easily.
+2 Charisma, Darkvision, speed 30 ft, medium sized. Considered adult at 40 years and live to be about 450 years. NO breath weapon or damage immunities.
Subraces: Ornoth - skin in shades ranging from dark purple to very pale blue with elongated pointed ears. They have vertical slit pupils (like a cat) and their darkvision range is 30ft and they can detect shades of red even in low light. They tend to eat meat-heavy diets. Aurixoth have skin in shades from pale yellow to dark orange (almost red). Their ears are shorter, closer to the head and not as pointedTheir eyes also have the vertical slit pupils and 30ft dark vision but cannot see colors in low light. They are more omnivorous than the Ornoth, however, and have a +1 to perception checks relying on smell. The Uxmolik are slightly larger than either the Ornoth or Aurixoth with skin in shades of grey or brown, often with a metallic sheen. Their ears are small and rounded, little more than a raised ridge of scaled skin around the entrance to the ear canal. Their eyes have more rounded pupils with 30ft darkvision but cannot see colors in low light. They have +1 to perception checks relying on hearing.
Blood Quickening - a 10 minute medidation on the draconic deity of their choice. May include doing something the chosen deity would appreciate, such as leaving a gold piece in a hidden spot for Astilabor. A successful meditation grants the following bonuses based on which deity was considered. No one deity can be called on more than once in a three day period. DM decides if meditation was successful, player decides which boon is granted.
Aasterinian - +1 to Deception OR Sleight of Hand checks for the day OR 1 use of Message (1st level spell).
Astilabor - +1 to History checks for the day OR 2x payout on any money earned today such as rent or wages (does not affect portion of treasure or loot).
Bahamut - 1 use of Channel Divinity OR 1 use Detect Evil and Good (1st level spell) OR do 2d6 additional radiant damage to one enemy.
Chronepsis - +2 to Perception checks for the day.
Falazure - +1 to Religion checks for the day OR 1 use Inflict Wounds (1st level spell)
Garyx - +1 to Survival checks for the day OR 1 use Burning Hands (1st level spell)
Hlal - +2 to Performance checks for the day OR 1 use Hideous Laughter (1st level spell)
Io - +1 to Strength checks for the day OR 1 use Create or Destroy Water (1st level spell) OR 1 use Goodberry (1st level spell)
Lendys - +2 to Concentration OR Insight checks for the day OR 1 use Identify (1st level spell)
Tamara - +2 to Medicine checks for the day OR 1 use Cure Wounds (1st level spell) OR 1 use Healing Word (1st level spell)
Tiamat - 1 use Command (1st level spell) or do 2d6 additional necrotic damage to one enemy.
New pretties in a handsome box with a matching dice tray. MDG Engraved Opalite dice.
Iām slowly building a homebrew campaign. One of my favorite things about D&D is the variety of peoples that populate the worlds, but I feel that allowing players to play everything from Aarakocra to Warforged from the get-go is a little excessive. So my idea is to start with the basic races from the PHB and only allow players to create characters using other races as they encounter them over the course of the campaign. Has anyone tried something like this before? How did it work out?
The present tabletop RPG resurgence is great, but I canāt help but feel that a lot of the received wisdom thatās developing about how to run tabletop games is leading new GMs to make things harder for themselves than they needs to be.
Stuff like āI ignore 80% of the rulebook and constantly fudge dice rolls, that means Iām a strong independent GM with a clear vision for my gameā ā like, yes, that may well be true, but that youāre having to do all that is a pretty clear sign that youāre using a wildly inappropriate system for the kind of game you want to run.
Basically, game rules are not unopinionated. Any game that claims to be universal is lying to you; yes, itās true that a given set of rules can be reasonably setting neutral, but even the simplest rules bake in a huge number of very specific assumptions about how the game ought to be played. They have to, because thatās what rules do.
Of course, whenever the rules and the GM disagree about how the game ought to be played, the GM is going to win, but thatās not necessarily an argument you need to be having. To draw a parallel, itās totally possible to start with the rules of soccer and gradually rewrite and pare away bits and pieces of it until you have miniature golf, but youād have saved yourself a lot of headaches if youād just started with miniature golf in the first place!
And the thing is, I donāt think most novice GMs are getting themselves into this position on purpose. A lot of folks seem to be getting misled ā sometimes by overzealous advocates of this or that popular system, and sometimes just by their own inexperience ā that thereās basically only one kind of tabletop RPG, and if the the game they want to play is anything other than that very specific game, itās on them to figure it out from first principles.
Which just plain aināt the case. Tabletop RPGs are a hugely diverse hobby, and whatever your perfect game is, thereās probably something very close to it out there already, no matter what it is youāre dissatisfied with. There are tabletop RPGs without dice, tabletop RPGs without GMs, and even tabletop RPGs without player characters ā and all of those are totally separate considerations from how complex the rules are. If your ideal game is a highly structured three-hundred-page tome about Regency era comedies of manners in the mode of Bronte and Austen?Ā That game actually exists ā as do countless others.
(Plus, even if you prefer to hack your own systems, you can benefit from expanding your horizons and seeing how other people have approached the subjects you want to take on. As a game author myself, Iāve frequently found myself in the position of having spent weeks or months bashing my head against a particular piece of game design, only later to discover that some game I didnāt know existed had solved that problem thirty years ago!)
And just so nobody can say Iām being a grump without offering any constructive alternatives, thereās an annotated rec list of forty-odd free or pay-what-you-want tabletop RPGs under the cut. If you want to take my advice but have no budget for expanding your library, check any of these out!
Keep reading
This has some really great info about many and diverse TTRPGs beyond Dungeons & Dragons, Call of Cthulhu, and Pathfinder.

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I got to play in a one-shot of the Hunt for the Thesselhydra last week. We had to choose from a selection of pre-made 3rd level characters and I picked the Dwarvish bard. I havenāt played a bard before (though I have one sketched out and ready to get details appropriate for a campaign in my sheets). These were the dice I chose for my jovial fellow:
I believe most of these are WizDice āStardust (black w/ gold d20, d8, d4), Astral Echoes (clear w/gold d20), Arcane Aura (purple w/ white d4) ā along with Rogues and Knaves Lapis Lazuli (blue w/ white d4), and Gold (yellow w/ white d4).
Chessex Lab Dice, Festive Dahlia and Festive Flare with a seasonal maple leaf.