Multiple personalities

We head over to a tailing pond on Arjun’s motorbike. A tailing pond is where the tailings i.e. uranium mining waste, in the form of a slurry, are stored in an artificially constructed pond. The pond may be lined at the bottom, or not. In this case, the pond isn’t lined, as informed by Arjun. “This is a 64-acre tailing pond and takes the waste of uranium ore processing from the nearby plant. . “This radioactive slurry is being stored in the open, doesn’t this pose any health and environmental hazards?”, I ask. Arjun smiles at me and says, “You understand this basic fact, but somehow the DAE (Department of Atomic Energy) and BARC (Bhabha Atomic Research Centre) officials don’t acknowledge this.” “Has the pond ever overflown?” I shudder at that thought. “Yes, in 2003, it rained a lot, continuously. The tailing pond overflowed into the neighboring farms. It killed all the crops that year. Not only that but some small animals too, died by drinking that water. The groundwater has been polluted, and the company won’t admit it. However, they have asked the nearby villages to stop using ground water and are instead being told to take water from the multiple water points installed by the company. During summers, the slurry dries up and gets carried by the wind all around the pond, to neighboring villages.” . My mind is buzzing with questions and emotions. The thought of utter disregard for environmental and health safety laws while handling something as sensitive as the radioactive Uranium ore makes me sick to my stomach. I visit a small habitation merely few meters from the wall that UCIL has built around the tailing point on one side. The village is deserted as most of the people have gone to earn their daily wage. In one corner, a toddler is kicking his pet cat while lying down on a charpai. Hen are pecking at the ground for leftover grains after the child's mother is done washing rice for their afternoon meal. These are scenes from any village, except that the toddler may be inhaling radioactive dust while his mother might be washing and cooking with water that has radioactive remnants from the Uranium sludge nearby. (at Ucil Complex Turamdih)

Starting with these pictures, I'll be sharing the tales from last year's 2000 kms cycling through the states of Jharkhand and Odisha in East India. The cycle bag from @evocinstagram has made it easy for me to take my bike wherever I travel. While airport officials are usually surprised to see me lugging a bag, the size of a 60 inch television it is amazing that the bike can be easily dismantled and reassembled within minutes. Covering thousands of kilometers means that you should be able to trust your machine. I've had the @trekbikes Domane endurance road bike for about 3 years. But the real tests have been on the roads where there were no roads. You may have read the tribal rights issues that I wrote about, on my website karmatraveler.com. If you haven't, I urge you to. But these series of photos and videos hope to show you my personal journey through these tribal lands. The people I met, the cycling experiences through Ghats and forests, the delicious local foods, the hospitality of strangers and the gorgeous landscapes of eastern Ghats. Stay tuned for the ride of a lifetime☺️ #TravelKarma #CyclingActivist #tribal #indigenous #IndigenousRising #minimalism #photojournalism #citizenjournalist #easternghats #jharkhand #cycling #bikepacking #endurancecycling #blogger (at Ranchi, Jharkhand)

Why is it that, the farther a body goes from its usual state of being, the more liberated one feels? Why is it that, the lesser connected one is to technology, the more connected to nature one feels? Why is it that the fewer money one spends, the more enriched one's experiences are? Over the years, I've constantly tried to not merely tour a certain place, but to travel and learn. I've tried to not be a mere tourist, visiting places to tick off the list, but to soak the experiences that the people imbibe in their day to day lives. This isn't always easy, though. The places where I stay aren't the finest, the food may not always be very palatable, the hygiene may not be according to so called Urban standards. But not once have I felt in these places, that I didn't belong there. Not once did the communities make me feel that I was unwelcome. Not once have I encountered doors that haven't opened to welcome me with a smile. The more I see of our rural villages, steeped in the culture of kindness and hospitality, the more I fall in love with humanity. The double decker living root bridges of Nongriat, near Cherrapunjee, Meghalaya are situated among one such incredible Khasi community. Located at the bottom of a valley which can be reached by climbing down 3800 steps only, you are transported in a world which is nothing short of a dream. The fact that we know so little of our own country is intriguing and disheartening. Much beauty lies beyond the typical weekend jaunts, if only one looks​. Northeast is a world in itself, and I'm so glad I've begun to explore it😊 #TravelKarma #travelblogger #livingroots #northeast #meghalaya #shillong #Cherrapunjee #livingrootbridge #fog #mornings #forest #tropical #wettestplaceonearth #waterfall #traveler #solo #nomad #trekking #doubledeckerbridge #traveldonttour #incredibleindia #indiapictures @northeast_india (at Living Root Bridges)

This World Wildlife Day (celebrated on 3rd March) I'm sharing the picture of a 7-8 year old female Snow leopard. On a recent trip to Spiti valley, while staying at a village called Kibber at 14,200 ft. we witnessed something inexplicable. The donkey seen here died of disease and villagers threw it away, since almost nothing rots at -20 degrees! This leopardess, who was injured herself near her tail, took warmth from and fed on the donkey. Due to her condition, she kept her mobility limited. Almost the entire village, along with us, were lucky witnesses to the sheer beauty of the worlds most elusive cat, the snow leopard, from a distance of 15 meters. But, what's even more interesting is that this leopardess has been near the village for some time. In November she killed goats, mules and cows, a total of about 11 animals. But the villagers have no animosity with the leopardess. Even now, when she was injured, they didn't go and trouble her or hurt her. In a world where humans are increasingly growing intolerant of each other, it was blissful to see that some humans are empathetic to the needs of an animal. For coexistence is the name of the game. We share this planet with over 8 million other species, many of whom are still coexisting with us. Can we coexist with them? #WorldWildlifeDay #TravelKarma #Travelblogger #TravelBlog #SnowLeopard #Kibber #Spiti #SpitiValley @thespitiunited #Himalayas # (at Kibber)

I've learned more than ever in 2016 that the only thing standing between who you want to be and who you are, is your resolve to change. So here are my resolutions for 2017 and I want to share it with all of you, my lovely followers. I'd like to hear what you think of it, and also, what are your resolutions for this year. I'd like to wish all of you a fulfilling 2017. The link to my article is in my bio, click to read more☺ And thank you for being with me throughout this year, joining me in what was definitely a monumental year🤗 #TravelKarma #CyclingActivist #TribalTrail #ClimateChange #newyear #resolutions #2017 (at Austin, Texas)

This cute calf of Texas Long Horn breed is raised almost entirely without giving it, it's own mothers milk. Imagine pulling off a human baby from its mothers breast milk 3 days after birth and then being fed milk replacement, so that some other species could drink human milk. Sounds impossible right? Yet, that is exactly what we do with over 1 billion cattle across the world. The global milk production of over 800 million tons is sadly based on lies perpetuated by the marketing of dairy development boards world over. We continue to be sold the lie that milk is needed to make our bones strong. Yet, 75 percentile the world who is lactose intolerant has perfectly healthy bones and no calcium deficiency.In fact, consumption of milk has shown increased percentage of arthritis and osteoporosis, which means that we have possibly been believing a lie that's been told long enough. Apart from this, over 1000 liters of freshwater is needed to produce one liter of milk, competing with food crops. While, 26% of planets land is used for livestock grazing, upto 35% cropland is used for livestock feed production. Not to mention, the "undesirable" male calves which are a product of constant breeding are sent to the slaughterhouses as veal. And the methane that goes to the environment from all these animals. All in all, the Gau Mata may very well be the contender for national animal, but is quite anti-national in its impact, thanks to our exploitative tendency. #ClimateChange #FoodProduction #DairyFarming #Travelblog #WeAreWhatWeEat #GlobalWarming #Milk #ThinkBeforeYouEat (at Georgetown, Texas)

Spent the weekend with these absolutely gorgeous looking cows, the Texas Long Horns, in Georgetown, Texas. As beautiful as they are, worldwide the cattle farming industry is a large contributor to greenhouse gases. You'd be surprised how these mooing ruminants have a hand in global warming. Actually, it's their burps! Cows being ruminants are aided by bacteria in their stomach to digest the good. This generates from 100 to 200 liters of methane each day, thats as much pollution as a car!!! With methane being 23 times more powerful than CO2, the cattle fairy and beef industry is one of the largest contributors to rising global temperatures. Who would've thought, right! The United States is worlds largest beef producer, making nearly 20% of global beef production and the 2nd highest consumer in the world, after Australia. With the consumption only slated to increase over the coming years, cattle industry's contribution to global warming shows no signs of slowing down! While agriculture contributes to about 15% of worlds greenhouse gases, the beef and dairy industry produce more than 55 % of this!!! Time to rethink what we eat!!! #ClimateChange #Beef #DairyFarming #GlobalWarming #Methane #Texas #LongHorn #CattleRanch @earthwala (at Georgetown, Texas)

The world just celebrated International Human Rights day today, 10th of December. And I can't stop thinking of the millions of Human Rights defenders across the world who put their life in jeopardy to stand up for the rights of those whose voice is unheard. I mean, just think for a moment. People just like you and I, who're plaqued with the same daily issues that we all face, of relationships, acceptance and appreciation, financial stability and aspirations of a better life etc place the issues of others ahead of their own wants and desires. They decide to devote their life, time and in some unfortunate cases, blood to uphold the constitutional rights of fellow humans. I've always wondered why don't they just think of taking the easier path, the more selfish path towards personal gratification. Henri Tiphagne, founder of Peoples Watch in Madurai, Tamil Nadu pictured here, is one such crusader of Human Rights & has been at it for 3 decades. I see his wealth is in the relation that he forges with each life he's touched. So much that when the Home ministry unconstitutionally froze their NGO's bank accounts for over 20 months, 1/5th of their staff stayed on without pay for that duration. He gives them all the courage to go on, they all give him the strength to be courageous. It's really easy, almost natural to be selfish. It takes a different kinda human to be a human rights defender and stand up not only for those you know, but even those whom you don't. I pay my respects to this rare breed of humans world over, who keep dissent alive, who aren't afraid to ask the real questions and answer the unpleasant enquiries. May the truth always win! #internationalhumanrightsday #HumanRights #allforoneoneforall #UNHRC #Justice #Peace #Equality #Dignity @UN_HRC (at Madurai City)

It's intriguing how you find your tribe. As we grew up @gadgetwala and I, we had the inevitable shadow of a national judo champion and a true fitness icon, our dad. We both struggled to excel in one particular sport, failed at Judo, didn't keep up with swimming. I had a brief stint with cricket, while bro was keen on gymnastics. The time I seriously pursued something was during college, when I ran long distances. But as the rut of jobs started, running became increasingly difficult, or at least that's what I told myself. It was during my first visit to the US in 2010 that I saw how effortlessly people cycled here, took cycles in trains or on buses. And I thought to myself about all the excuses I would make if i had to do that back home. That was the turning point, the moment I came back to india from that vacation I bought a Hercules Roadeo A100 and started cycling. After years of being told to pursue a sport and failing at it, little did I know that a trip to the US would bring me to my new love, the love of cycling. Now, wherever I go, I'm not without a means of transport or means to explore. So while people look for tourist spots to go to, I look for bike sharing booths, trails and anything that remotely represents cycling. The beauty of cycling is, it's universal and most often you'll find really fun people on the saddles. I'm lucky that I found my tribe, have you? #travelblogger #travelmusing #pennsylvania #usa #roadtrip #RoadScenes #traveler #cyclist #cycling (at Harrisburg, Pennsylvania)

One seldom tires from staring at sunsets, something about appreciating the beauty as it ceases to exist, I guess. Do we similarly appreciate enough? For the life that we have. For the people that we live it with. For the opportunities that we have received. We may be ambitious and always want more, to reach somewhere better and achieve something incremental. But while we do that, do we look at the setting sun and marvel at all that we have with us, today? Sure tomorrow would be another day full of possibilities, but are glad that we lived today? My travels have taken me world over, quite literally and that has always been extremely humbling. Thank you, for being a part of my story telling experience, you guys, my followers make me share more, show more and hence see more. I am truly grateful for all the love and appreciation that all of you bless me with. #PayItForward #TravelBlogger #traveler #Pittsburgh #pennsylvania #usa #sunsetsofig #lovemyfollowers (at Shadyside)

Fall colors in Pittsburgh are a delight for the eyes. Coming from the warm weather of Austin, Pittsburgh's cold is a welcome delight. It rained this morning dipping the mercury further, flurry rains are forecasted from tomorrow. The long Thanksgiving vacation with wifey and sis in law has begun with incredible views from her home. #Travelblogger #travelmusing #traveler #fallcolors #pittsburgg #pennsylvania #travelislife #thanksgiving (at Shadyside)

For me, the idea behind going to a place and it's key destinations isn't merely to tick the to-do or to-see list. It's interesting to see why the locals want to show you, a particular place, as an outsider. Especially in a place like Spiti, where man-made buildings or attractions are almost non-existent, the locals turn to their gods and the Tibetan culture to showcase their land and it's stories. The fact that these monasteries or gonpas are built so beautifully and strategically are in itself a showcase of the ingenuity of their people. So even though I am not someone who appreciates religious tourism, I was compelled to look and marvel at the incredible local wooden and mud architecture. Almost all homes draw inspiration from the gonpas and bear similar color. One cannot miss the huge influence that Buddhist religion has over the people of the valley. Literally every adult has a chain of beads and is seen chanting "Om Mani Padne Hum" which loosely translates as 'May all beings be happy' as told to me by a monk at the Key monastery. #Travelkarma #travelblogger #travel #solotraveler #nomad #Spiti #himalayangeographic #himalayas #Himachal #mountains #roadtrip #buddhism (at Key Monastery)

Movement is life. As much as I seek stillness within, among oceans of calm, I find myself at a constant conflict with my external environment. Not being rooted in a native village, I've often found myself questioning if I really belonged to a place. I see people who go back to a certain village or town each year, celebrate their festivals among those communities, relate to them as their own. That rootedness has never been mine to claim. This has taken me to so many more places though. Interestingly, the mountains have always felt like home calling. Though I've spent almost 28 years by the bay, the embrace of mountains has always held the warmth of a familiar pair of arms. I feel that each of us should discover where we feel at home, away from the urban landscapes that we're forced to call Home. The primitive genes in us are bound to have an inclination towards a natural topography. Let it reveal itself to you. #TravelKarma #travelblogger #Spiti #Himachal #himalayangeographic #himalayas #nomad #travelislife #streetsofindia #incredibleindia #DiwaliInMountains (at Spiti, Himachal Pradesh, India)

The nitrogen in our DNA, the calcium in our teeth, the iron in our blood, the carbon in our apple pies were made in the interiors of collapsing stars. We are made of starstuff - Carl Sagan. The only reason I'd carried my DSLR on this trip, was to see the night sky through its lens. Sure, I've captured the milky way earlier, but there's nothing that challenges you like the spiti night!!! Waiting on bulb mode, for your camera to capture that glint which was emitted millions of light years ago may seem like a futile exercise to many. Especially when the temperature outside is dipping to -3 degrees and you are on a lightless, building rooftop without heating. In some way, I think though, that star gazing mimics us in life. Don't we try to hold onto things, relationships, situations long after they've passed, failing to acknowledge that the light we're actually seeing was emitted a long while ago. On that star spangled night, I was gently reminded by the night sky to make NOW brighter, and not hold onto the light trails of the past. Nature does speak to us, you know. If only, we listen 😊 #TravelKarma #Travelblogger #adventure #astrophotography #nightsky #Spiti #instahimachal #Himachal #solotraveler #roadtrip #nomad #skies (at Spiti, Himachal Pradesh, India)

I love undertaking trips which have a tentative outline, but not a definite itinerary. What joy is a vacation, if one is constantly looking at their pre planned schedule and seeing whether or not they're sticking to it. Don't we do that enough in our lives otherwise? We decide our academics, our jobs, career, when we'll buy that car, or that house,when we'll get married, when we'll be "settled". We spend so much time and effort in planning our life, yet it's the experiences that are unplanned that create the best of memories. My road trip to Kaza was one such experience. After the initial uncertainty of vehicles going to kaza, I got to travel in a shared scorpio cab with Chering, aged 24, who's been with Rashtriya Rifles for 5 years, posted in kashmir. We had superb discussions and debates even as I showed him to use his new phones panorama mode and manual settings☺ Travel, as well as in life, it's easier to let things take their own course, once a while. Let life help you create new memories, with new experiences. #TravelKarma #Travelblogger #solotravel #roadtrip #manali #LahaulSpiti #Himachal #himalayas #himalayangeographic #instahimachal #nomad #solotraveler #streetsofindia #incredibleindia (at Rohtang Pass - 13050 Feet)

Nothing can prepare you for what you'll witness on there Manali-Kaza road. No amount if internet research, talking to travellers can give you an inkling of what you're about to experience. The fact that I chose to come to this place now, when the tourists are almost unwelcome due to water freezing in pipes of homestays and guesthouses, added to the hostility of the place. The ten hour road journey from manali to kaza, through this terrain, on non existent roads and evacuated villages while ingesting endless amount of dust has got to be the most arduous journey I've ever undertaken. Is it worth it? Will I do it again? All I can say is, when I look at my gallery and see what has been captured by my phone camera in those 10 hours, I can't believe what I see. And that is Spiti- Incredibly Unbelievable #TravelKarma #Travelblogger #roadtrip #LahaulSpiti #Manali #travelmusing #solotraveler #nomad #instatravel #Himalayas #instahimachal #streetsofindia #DiwaliInMountains #CelebrateWithNature (at Rohtang Pass - 13050 Feet)