New sewing pattern <Kikyo> 3-in-1 Jacket
A new item is just released from Waffle Patterns. Meet the 3-in-1 Jacket <Kikyo> sewing pattern. This is a set of 3 items; an outdoor style jacket + zip-in/zip-out removable hood + zip-in/zip-out removable liner. Convenient and fun utility item for your trip, outdoor activity or daily use for all seasons!
You can make only an unlined utility jacket or a full set of items.
-Jacket
The jacket is unlined with a zipper+button opening. There are a lot of functional pockets. Please mix and combine the pocket designs as your usage.
The waist pockets have 2 kinds of hand-warmer layer designs. One is easy to sew patch type, and one is a welt type.
The chest pocket designs are 2 types, too; flap+patch or zipper type.
My personal favourite is the zipper pocket on the chest and the sleeve pocket. I find they are very handy. I always put important things here like keyholders.
There are other functional details like a back belt, sleeve pleats, or shoulder tabs. You can skip some details.
The fit is loose-regular for room of the removable liner.
-Removable Liner
The liner is zip-in / zip-out type. You can attach it to the shell at the front facing with zippers supported by small buttons and elastic loops.
It has a pocket and you can use as an inside pocket.
Of course, you can skip the liner. But it is very fun to add! And pretty easy to sew compared to the shell.
Btw, it is not really impossible to wear this liner as a jacket, especially if you make both inside and out clean. But the front area of the fitting goes off, so I do not recommend it officially.
-Removable Hood
The zip-in / zip-out removable hood is lined and has a front button opening. You can attach it to the shell at the neckline on the collar by a zipper.
The zipper is attached to the inside of the hood, so the hood layer comes outside of the garment. I found it is functional because when it rains, the rainwater should not sit between the layer of the Collar and hood.
It has a string, but you can skip this.
Please make your creative style by mixing your favourite details!
<Shell>
The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Light to medium weight durable but not too stiff woven jacket fabrics are recommended. like denim, gabardine, twill, canvas, etc.
Please consider the fabric with some body because it has to support the removable liner.
If your fabric is very thick/stiff, please consider using other lighter fabrics partly to avoid the thick layers, like pocket flaps or layered pocket parts.
Please choose a suitable one for your design intention and how you want to wear it. I strongly recommend checking with actual samples.
<Lining for shell>
The hood and the pocket bags use lining fabric. Normal lining fabrics like plain cotton or acetate will work, but functional ones like quilted or faux fur will be fun, too.
<Removable liner>
The liner constructed from;
-Lining fabric(outside)
-Thermal lining fabric (inside when you wear)
-Lining fabric(outside)
Light weight lining fabric with a smooth texture will work like plain cotton or acetate etc.
-Thermal lining fabric (inside when you wear)
Consider fabric like thin quilt, light weight fleece, flannel, or light faux fur, etc.
I recommend avoiding too heavy fabrics which cannot be supported by the shell.
I made one with boiled wool. It is very warm but a bit heavy.
A thick quilt may be too much volume. If you want to go with a volumy liner, maybe going 1-2 size up is a better idea.
For flannel and fleece versions, I used slippery fabric for the sleeve parts of the inside liner for comfort, but maybe no need to do that depending on your intention. If you use thick or fluffy fabric and worry about comfort about this part, please remember slippery fabrics are a safer choice.
<Sample fabrics in the photos>
Here is a fabric list I used for the samples. I could not get all the shops which I bought from because some are too old or from wholesalers.
- Brick orange x plaid
Shell ; cotton mixed twill
Liner (thermal inside) ; wool mixed flannel
Liner (outside) ; plain cotton lining
- Yellow sample
Shell ; light weight water repellent outdoor fabric (from kniphal.nl) I think it is not for garments originally, but not very thick so it still worked.
Liner (thermal inside) ; thin pre-quilted (thin insulation like under 80g backed with satin)
Liner (outside) ; plain cotton lining
- khaki sample
Shell ; cotton mixed twill (from nnstoffen.nl)
Liner (thermal inside) ; light fleece (from nnstoffen.nl)
Liner (outside) ; plain cotton lining
The fabric choice all depends on your design intention and how you want to wear it. I strongly recommend checking with actual samples as much as possible. Also researching store bought jackets will help your ideas.
The fitting is loose-regular. I made just size for the yellow and khaki, but the orange one is one size smaller because the liner is thinner.
I strongly recommend making a muslin for perfect fit. Some of my testers made 1 size larger with a mid-weight liner.
If you use very fluffy volumy liner or want to wear thick sweater underneath, maybe considering 1-2 size larger is a good idea.
-Zipper for attaching the liner
I used general width (about 28mm) plastic teeth zippers. Because 2 zipper tapes come on the R-side facing(see the 1st photo), wide type zippers are not suitable.
-Zipper for attaching the hood
This part is curved, so should be flexible. I used plastic teeth type and have no problem. Maybe some coil types are more flexible. But, I avoided coil type because I broke them often for some reason (maybe only me?)
Also, this jacket comes with many zipper tapes, I prefer plastic type because of the light weight.
-Other
I attached the tabs on the pocket flaps. Those are pieces of folded twill tape(keperband).
-Because the jacket is unlined, I finished the most seams with flat fell seam. If you do this, maybe it is better to add extra 2-3mm to the seam allowance. Some parts are not suitable for flat fell finish like bulky parts or armholes. I used bias tapes for armholes, and serger for bulky parts(like front yoke with flap).
-If you do not like visible zipper tapes, you can add twill tape or folded strips of shell fabric over the zipper tape.
-Some store bought jackets with a zip-on hood use a placket over the zipper. I think it is suitable if your fabric is thin. (I tried one and find too bulky)
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The sewing pattern includes 18 pages of instructions and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copyshop(A0 format).
You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.
The 3-in-1 Jacket -Kikyo- (size 32 - 54) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.
Special discount price until 14th Oct. 2024 (CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.
***** Special offer for Paper pattern and free shipping
Paper pattern + PDF option is available limited time. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC. The PDF + Paper listing page is here.
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