Commissions are mostly closed unless you want little things, but they’ll be back by mid-august!
Typical prices
Available pieces
Available once fired
all my pottery is food safe, microwave safe, oven safe and dishwasher safe, unless otherwise specified
I’m a small-batch hand builder. I tend to decorate my work by painting and carving. I’ll repeat designs I enjoy, but mostly I just make what I make. my spouse @subpar-lemon-bar has started making and decorating pottery with me too (plus he’s the one printing shipping labels and sending invoices lol)
if you see an unfired piece that you want, check the tags. if it says ‘available once fired,’ send me a dm and I’ll give you first dibs once it’s finished!
I ship internationally
I try to mark sold pieces as sold in the post, but I do forget sometimes. and I try to remember to add alt descriptions. if I’ve missed one, let me know and I’ll edit
if you’re homophobic, transphobic, racist, antisemitic, etc, you’re not welcome here, leave.
typically used tags and such under the cut
I tag my work as:
available - for sale. just dm me about them. you can also email me ([email protected]). I prefer going through paypal but I can make an Etsy listing if needed
available once fired - an unfired piece that hasn’t been claimed. send me a private message about it for dibs. here’s my masterlist of available once fired pieces, along with an explanation of my dibs system
reserved - already claimed
I try to tag long posts ‘long post’
searchable tags:
glazeware - only my glazed pottery
bisqueware - only my bisqued pottery
greenware - only my unfired pottery
timelapse - timelapse video of me decorating/building pottery
little dudes - a little sculptural critter. a dude, if you will. not just my work
kiln gods - a sculptural creature who guards pottery in the kiln
the forgotten bisqueware - pieces of bisqueware made by random pottery students who have left them behind/forgotten them
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What's the process like for slab building mugs? I've only done them on the wheel before and i was wondering how hard it is to get a smooth rotational symmetry when you don't have the wheel helping you
they’re pretty straightforward, but they definitely take practice. and I think an aspect of slab building (and hand building in general) is that it’s not going to be perfect. I had to learn to accept that and to love it for what it is
I use two tools to get my slab-built mugs nice and round:
1. a turntable/banding wheel. spinning it as I’m refining the shape helps keep it round, just like wheel-thrown pottery
and
2. The Cone
The Cone can be any cylinder that’s narrower at the bottom at wider at the top, and the right size to fit in your mug. just press it in and shape the rim to it, don’t leave it in the mug as the clay shrinks
but here’s the whole slab-building process!
under the cut
1. roll out clay.
this time I cut it straight from the bag so it’s air-bubble free, but otherwise it should be wedged first. I use a rolling pin with measured rings on the ends so I can easily roll it out 1/4” thick
2. I used to use a cardboard template and a pin tool for this (you can find the templates online and print them, or you can cut up a disposable cardboard cup to make a template)
but I upgraded to cutters a little while ago and I love them.
remember also to cut out a circle for the bottom of the mug.
3. smooth
4. let sit for a couple hours, or put it in front of a fan for awhile, so it’s not too floppy to work with. it should be flexible, workable, but not floppy. it shouldn’t crack if bent but it should stand up on its own once you’ve got it in a circular shape
5. I usually make a handle right before starting to build the mug, so it’s firm enough to work with by the time I’m done with the cylinder part of the mug. I prefer handle-making tools, rather than pulling them by hand
6. cut the mug edges at a 45 degree angle. you can eyeball it or use a tool. remember to flip the slab before cutting the other side, so they line up lol. I only made that mistake once.
I used to not do this step but my seams are a lot cleaner now.
7. score and slip, then join. once I’ve blended the two sides together a bit with my fingers, I like to use a soft rubber rib to smooth out the seam on the inside and outside, adding extra slip to fill any little gaps. it’ll be ugly at first, just keep refining it!
8. score and slip to attach the bottom piece to the cylinder. I add extra slip around the inside of the mug where the bottom attaches, and once I’ve flipped the mug back over, I smooth the extra slip along the seam on the inside with a brush or sponge, to help fill any gaps and attach everything nicely
9. here I usually use The Cone. the rim is going to warp again as I add my handle, so I’ll use the cone again later. it’s just helpful to have the rim round before adding a handle
10. attach handle. I like to attach them over the seam so as to leave the rest of the mug as smooth as possible for decorating
11. use The Cone again, refine the rim, cover mug with plastic and leave until leather hard
12. trim it, clean it up, etc (here’s one I prepared earlier!)
Slab building does give you some fun options besides just "round," too. I didn't like having a seam on something that was supposed to be round, and trying to make it invisible was driving me insane, so instead I. Made the seams a design feature. Et voilá!
This one was an early attempt and came out hilariously large. I have since decided to make my mugs about four inches tall and four inches around at the top (smaller at the bottom), which makes each hexagonal side two inches wide and a bit over four tall (due to the curve). That shrinks down to about 3.5, which is what most of the mugs in our cupboard measure at.
I suspect, from the looks I got while I was making these, that this kind of geometric assembly would drive a lot of potters crazy. I had fun though.
I did, yeah. It goes a little like this. This is on 0.5 cm grid paper if anyone wishes to try and replicate it. The floating, curved bottom is A Lot but, to me, worth it - very satisfying to use a spoon with. You could also just stick a flat bottom on it. For Big Mug, simply. Make big. It's not actually much taller, but it is a *lot* wider (2.5 inches on a side instead of 2, if we trust the firing ticket.)
I roll my slabs about the same thickness as OP, except for the bottom (which I do a hair thicker). I use a similar angled wire cutter tool, just the 30° side instead of the 45°. You can do it manually with a rib or needle tool, but I highly recommend not doing that. The angle wire tool is really satisfying and a good thing to have if you're interested in slab building at all. A protractor and a ruler come in clutch for this, but aren't necessarily required.
Finished examples (ignore the messy glazing, please):
I pull my handles, but you can use pretty much any method. You do want to think about whether you want it on a side, or a corner - it affects the way you drink out of it. I also added a foot ring that I haven't included in the diagram - up to you if you wanna do that, and how.
Big Mug wasn't getting used here, so I sold it (at a discount) to someone who was very pleased by its size and heft. Hopefully it's making them happy.
What's the process like for slab building mugs? I've only done them on the wheel before and i was wondering how hard it is to get a smooth rotational symmetry when you don't have the wheel helping you
they’re pretty straightforward, but they definitely take practice. and I think an aspect of slab building (and hand building in general) is that it’s not going to be perfect. I had to learn to accept that and to love it for what it is
I use two tools to get my slab-built mugs nice and round:
1. a turntable/banding wheel. spinning it as I’m refining the shape helps keep it round, just like wheel-thrown pottery
and
2. The Cone
The Cone can be any cylinder that’s narrower at the bottom at wider at the top, and the right size to fit in your mug. just press it in and shape the rim to it, don’t leave it in the mug as the clay shrinks
but here’s the whole slab-building process!
under the cut
1. roll out clay.
this time I cut it straight from the bag so it’s air-bubble free, but otherwise it should be wedged first. I use a rolling pin with measured rings on the ends so I can easily roll it out 1/4” thick
2. I used to use a cardboard template and a pin tool for this (you can find the templates online and print them, or you can cut up a disposable cardboard cup to make a template)
but I upgraded to cutters a little while ago and I love them.
remember also to cut out a circle for the bottom of the mug.
3. smooth
4. let sit for a couple hours, or put it in front of a fan for awhile, so it’s not too floppy to work with. it should be flexible, workable, but not floppy. it shouldn’t crack if bent but it should stand up on its own once you’ve got it in a circular shape
5. I usually make a handle right before starting to build the mug, so it’s firm enough to work with by the time I’m done with the cylinder part of the mug. I prefer handle-making tools, rather than pulling them by hand
6. cut the mug edges at a 45 degree angle. you can eyeball it or use a tool. remember to flip the slab before cutting the other side, so they line up lol. I only made that mistake once.
I used to not do this step but my seams are a lot cleaner now.
7. score and slip, then join. once I’ve blended the two sides together a bit with my fingers, I like to use a soft rubber rib to smooth out the seam on the inside and outside, adding extra slip to fill any little gaps. it’ll be ugly at first, just keep refining it!
8. score and slip to attach the bottom piece to the cylinder. I add extra slip around the inside of the mug where the bottom attaches, and once I’ve flipped the mug back over, I smooth the extra slip along the seam on the inside with a brush or sponge, to help fill any gaps and attach everything nicely
9. here I usually use The Cone. the rim is going to warp again as I add my handle, so I’ll use the cone again later. it’s just helpful to have the rim round before adding a handle
10. attach handle. I like to attach them over the seam so as to leave the rest of the mug as smooth as possible for decorating
11. use The Cone again, refine the rim, cover mug with plastic and leave until leather hard
12. trim it, clean it up, etc (here’s one I prepared earlier!)
Slab building does give you some fun options besides just "round," too. I didn't like having a seam on something that was supposed to be round, and trying to make it invisible was driving me insane, so instead I. Made the seams a design feature. Et voilá!
This one was an early attempt and came out hilariously large. I have since decided to make my mugs about four inches tall and four inches around at the top (smaller at the bottom), which makes each hexagonal side two inches wide and a bit over four tall (due to the curve). That shrinks down to about 3.5, which is what most of the mugs in our cupboard measure at.
I suspect, from the looks I got while I was making these, that this kind of geometric assembly would drive a lot of potters crazy. I had fun though.
What's the process like for slab building mugs? I've only done them on the wheel before and i was wondering how hard it is to get a smooth rotational symmetry when you don't have the wheel helping you
they’re pretty straightforward, but they definitely take practice. and I think an aspect of slab building (and hand building in general) is that it’s not going to be perfect. I had to learn to accept that and to love it for what it is
I use two tools to get my slab-built mugs nice and round:
1. a turntable/banding wheel. spinning it as I’m refining the shape helps keep it round, just like wheel-thrown pottery
and
2. The Cone
The Cone can be any cylinder that’s narrower at the bottom at wider at the top, and the right size to fit in your mug. just press it in and shape the rim to it, don’t leave it in the mug as the clay shrinks
but here’s the whole slab-building process!
under the cut
1. roll out clay.
this time I cut it straight from the bag so it’s air-bubble free, but otherwise it should be wedged first. I use a rolling pin with measured rings on the ends so I can easily roll it out 1/4” thick
2. I used to use a cardboard template and a pin tool for this (you can find the templates online and print them, or you can cut up a disposable cardboard cup to make a template)
but I upgraded to cutters a little while ago and I love them.
remember also to cut out a circle for the bottom of the mug.
3. smooth
4. let sit for a couple hours, or put it in front of a fan for awhile, so it’s not too floppy to work with. it should be flexible, workable, but not floppy. it shouldn’t crack if bent but it should stand up on its own once you’ve got it in a circular shape
5. I usually make a handle right before starting to build the mug, so it’s firm enough to work with by the time I’m done with the cylinder part of the mug. I prefer handle-making tools, rather than pulling them by hand
6. cut the mug edges at a 45 degree angle. you can eyeball it or use a tool. remember to flip the slab before cutting the other side, so they line up lol. I only made that mistake once.
I used to not do this step but my seams are a lot cleaner now.
7. score and slip, then join. once I’ve blended the two sides together a bit with my fingers, I like to use a soft rubber rib to smooth out the seam on the inside and outside, adding extra slip to fill any little gaps. it’ll be ugly at first, just keep refining it!
8. score and slip to attach the bottom piece to the cylinder. I add extra slip around the inside of the mug where the bottom attaches, and once I’ve flipped the mug back over, I smooth the extra slip along the seam on the inside with a brush or sponge, to help fill any gaps and attach everything nicely
9. here I usually use The Cone. the rim is going to warp again as I add my handle, so I’ll use the cone again later. it’s just helpful to have the rim round before adding a handle
10. attach handle. I like to attach them over the seam so as to leave the rest of the mug as smooth as possible for decorating
11. use The Cone again, refine the rim, cover mug with plastic and leave until leather hard
12. trim it, clean it up, etc (here’s one I prepared earlier!)
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
✓ Live Streaming✓ Interactive Chat✓ Private Shows✓ HD Quality✓ Free Actions
Free to watch • No registration required • HD streaming
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
✓ Live Streaming✓ Interactive Chat✓ Private Shows✓ HD Quality✓ Free Actions
Free to watch • No registration required • HD streaming
before and after adding some colour to a commissioned mug. the top 1/3 of the mug will have some colourful glazes on it. I’m so curious to see the results of this one
A raku fired ceramic cat skull! I love the crackle effect on this one, and it has a metallic green star on its forehead. This piece will be available Friday, June 12th at 8pm Eastern time.
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
✓ Live Streaming✓ Interactive Chat✓ Private Shows✓ HD Quality✓ Free Actions
Free to watch • No registration required • HD streaming
