ASPECD Apparel

Our Fit Philosophy

It's a great time to buy a shirt.  Not only are there a ton of great options in every price & style category, but also there's been an explosion of menswear companies focused on innovative new fit models.  And that's an exciting thing because everyone pretty much agrees fit is is foundation of looking great.

At ASPECD our personal fit philosophy is that a great fit is only part of the equation.  Simplicity and ease, especially over the internet where you can't experience the product first hand is just as important.  That's why our fit system is build around more sizes, and free alterations.  We looked out into the shirting world and saw 2 models at play:

Off the rack: The model everyone knows where you get preset sizes, usually XS to XL

Made to measure / Tailoring: Getting your measurements taken and then having a shirt made from scratch

Made to measure is great if you have a chunk of time to spare, and can measure yourself accurately (or have someone who knows what they are doing do it for you) and if that's you, you can get an amazing product.  For a lot of guys though, they don't need or want such a complicated model.  Investing 30 minutes then waiting a couple of weeks to get a shirt that is fully custom isn't necessary because their fit needs can be fully satisfied with an easier solution.  

What motivated us to do something different at ASPECD was the revelation that off the rack almost works.  

Studying body measurements and sizing data, we realized that for more than 60% of men, just having a couple more size options would help them get pretty damn close to the perfect fit.  In the existing off the rack model, 5 sizes from XS to XL ensures that the majority of men have to compromise on their fit, or go find a tailor.  We used the data to design in between sizes so the customer can make a more accurate selection, without getting bogged down by too many choices.

For most men, just the in between sizes are enough to get a great fit while for others, further refinement is needed.  When it comes to shirting, there are 3 main areas where men differ in body shape and preference:

Torso length (or whether you prefer to wear your shirt tucked in or not)

Arm length

Slimness

ASPECD offers free alterations in these key areas to ensure men can get the perfect fit.  For the torso length, free hemming let's you customize the shirt to the perfect length based on how you prefer to wear it.  For slimness, we can take the shirt in at the back to give a more contoured fit for those that prefer a slimmed profile.  And we're launching the option to do custom arm lengths next year so no one has to suffer with poorly fitted sleeves.

We do all these alterations for free in Brooklyn, and because we can order shirts in bulk in our 9 sizes and alter them in our own workshop, customers still get their shirt in a matter of days, instead of weeks with Made to Measure.

To make all this super easy, our user experience philosophy is based around relative choice.  This means we never ask the customer for any absolution measurements other than basics everyone knows like their height and waist.  We prefer to ask relative questions around products the custom already owns - how does your JCrew shirt fit around your chest?  Do you want it tighter or looser?  This makes it easy for customers to give us fit information over the internet and ensures that we get accurate data.  Our alterations follow the same model: we offer preset options to choose from for slimming and hemming that makes it much easier than forcing the customer to give us an exact measurement.

Our goal with ASPECD's fit system is to provide customers the best of both worlds - the simplicity and ease of off the rack, along with the superior fit of made to measure.  We're excited to get more people to try our system.  Given the amazing feedback we've already gotten from our fans, we're confident we have a model that works.

Menswear Idea Book: 11/7

5 most awesome beards and mustaches

In honor of Mo-vember, we've scoured the internet for the most awesome examples of facial hair known to man.  Hide the women, and put the children to bed early, because we have raw testosterone fertilized face foliage coming your way.  Prepare to feel inadequate in 3...2...1.....

The gaping maw

Load bearing properties aside, there is something terribly awesome about this beard.  Maybe it's because it resembles the springtime nest of migrating birds.  Maybe it's because the beard seems to demand nourishment.  Perhaps the beard grew so large and strong by soaking up many regurgitated meals?

The hypnotic dream

Like a enigma wrapped inside a puzzle hidden behind a face of mysterious mirth, the spiral beard evokes wonder and awe.  You can't gaze upon it without the beard gazing back, until hours later when you finally break eye contact, you're left a hollow shell of a man, all freewill gouged from your being, now replaced by the pure force of will of the beard itself.  It's pretty neat!

The Spider Man

You think if Peter Parker wanted to grow a beard he could make it out of super strong spider silk?  Also, the fact that this dude looks ripped as hell just makes it all the more awesome.

The Monet

This gentleman has crafted a windmill and bicycle out of his beard.  I can't even draw a windmill or bicycle this well, and homie here has a full blown pastoral scene on his face, looking all peaceful and all.  Call the MoMa, because this here is legit modern art.

Mustache + Cat + Internet = Win

There is so much going right with this look that I'm going to have to break it down piece by piece:

The mustache playfully and wistfully winds its way down his face and neck, forming a question mark as well as a cat's tail.  Coincidence?  Or a larger statement on the nebulous nature of our existence as a whole?  I think we know the answer.

In a master stroke of genius, the chest hair is incorporated as a cat.  He's earned that Einstein tattoo on his shoulder as certainly the man that came up with Brownian Motion and E=mc2 would be proud of this look.  It's the grand unification theory of chest and facial hair.  

MENSWEAR IDEABOOK: 10/24

Choosing the perfect tie in 3 easy steps

If you've ever been tie shopping, you know that literally every single color and pattern known to man has been made into a tie.  Tie displays in stores can look like a rainbow of unicorn vomit - pretty but unapproachable.  In this post, we're going to teach you not only how to choose a great tie but also how to decide what to match it with in your wardrobe.

Step 1: Select the right length and width for your body

Fit is everything.  This fundamental mens fashion rule applies to ties as well.  Thankfully tie sizes are blessedly simple: the length and width are your only concern.  The tie you choose should be long enough to reach your belt buckle.  Unless you are taller than average, this means most off the shelf ties should fit unless you have a habit of tying crazy knots that use up a lot of tie.  

Width is more personal.  A couple of things you should consider:

Men with larger frames usually look better with a wider tie - everything just looks more proportional

Skinny ties are currently popular and work well if you are shorter and thinner

If you'll be wearing your tie with a jacket, the width of the tie shouldn't be dramatically different from the width of the jacket lapel or you'll look weirdly out of proportion

Step 2: Pick colors that match the clothes you own

Ties will always be viewed in the context of your entire outfit, so it's important to choose colors that go with what you already have in your closet.  If you need a quick refresher on color matching, check out our color coordination guide, but otherwise keep it simple.  Start with the basic colors that never fail: black, dark blues, and dark reds are versatile and difficult to screw up.  They tend to work both in casual and professional settings so you'll get a lot of bang for your buck.

Once you've got a couple of basic colors down, start to look for stuff that fits with your shirts and jackets.  In summer, tryout something lighter and brighter, while rich, earthy colors can really make an outfit pop in the fall.

Step 3: Use an interesting tie pattern to add character to your outfit

Working with patterns seems difficult, but it really boils down to remembering some simple rules.  Firstly, don't feel like you have to rush into patterns at all.  Get some solid colors you feel good about and that could be enough for now.  Secondly, remember the golden rule for tie patterns: Never wear a tie that has the same pattern as your shirt or jacket.  That's how you end up looking like an optical illusion:

Lastly, remember that your tie should be getting noticed, otherwise why bother at all.  Don't be afraid to try a bolder pattern than the rest of your outfit.  The great thing about ties is that they are a small enough part of your outfit to test things out and it won't be a disaster if it doesn't work, yet a noticeable enough part of your outfit where a good bold choice can really make you stand out.  You can't lose!

In the Trenches

What is it about cigarettes that makes them look so damn cool? Even though I don’t partake, cigarettes may be the single dopest fashion accessory in history that has nothing to do with fashion or accessory—it just makes a person look boss, like my man right here looking like he's really in the trenches doing his thing.

Innovations in fashion

In honor of our most northern, most western, and most eastern state joining the union, here are some crazy Alaska facts:

Alaska day is celebrated on October 18th and commemorates the formal transfer of Alaska from Russia to the United States

Klondike bars aren't just delicious treats that people will lose their dignity for (I ate cat food for a free Klondike Bar during some dark times in 2004), it's also the name of the town where gold was first discovered, starting the Alaskan Gold Rush of 1897.

Alaska takes its name from the Aleut word “Alyeska”, meaning “great land".  The state nickname is "The Last Frontier" and on average over 20 people die in the Alaskan wilderness every year.

Alaska's state seal has an actual "arf arf arf" seal on it

North America's largest oil field is in Alaska.  Iran and Iraq are pissed because they have to drill for oil in the hot desert while we don't have to break a sweat and can enjoy delicious delicious Klondike bars while drilling our oil.

It's illegal to wake a polar bear to take it's picture

Menswear Ideabook: 10/16

Almost Nailed It

Foolproof guide to accessories

If you've been following along with our style upgrade guide, then you'll have already learned about the importance of fit, how to coordinate colors , and how to layer your clothes.  This week, we'll be taking it to the next level by showing you how easy it is to add sophistication to your look with some simple accessories.

Getting started

Accessories like belts, scarves, and umbrellas make for an easy first step.  They're not only practical but also chances are that you already have some of this stuff around your closet.  Follow these 3 basic steps with the simple accessories you already own to ensure you get off to the right start:

Never forget to be practical: Don't be that guy that carries an umbrella around just because it looks cool.  Only use accessories when there is a bonafide reason: wear a scarf when it's cold and invest in some good gloves in the winter.  This will ensure you stay way from the number 1 pitfall of accessories: looking like a pretentious fool.

Remember the rule of three: Stick to wearing only 3 accessories at a time.  If you already have an interesting pocket square, a colorful belt and a monocle, you're all set.  Less is more unless you want to completely overwhelm and confuse people.

Be genuine: Avoid accessories that don't fit your personality.  If you can't feel comfortable and confident wearing it, you won't look good.  If you tend to be a casual guy, don't force yourself to have a first class bowtie game.  Be authentic and you'll end up having a lot more fun while being completely stylish.

The gear

To get you started, check out this priority list of key accessories.  The first items on the list are worth an early investment as they tend to be versatile, practical, and can be worked into a lot of different outfits successfully while the later pieces are nice to haves but not core essentials.

Belts

Unless you're going suspenders, the humble belt is your daily friend.  Take the opportunity to let him shine, especially if you tend to wear your shirts tucked in.  Either a splash of color, or a nice textured leather will go far and can be matched so easily.  Match your belt, shoes, and other leathers for a complete look that can hold your whole outfit together.

Socks

As with belts, socks are an oft overlooked piece that you should take a second look at.   Improve your style by going beyond the plain black, brown, or white to add some much needed color around your ankle.  A nice splash of brighter color or a unique texture thrown between your pants and shoes can really add some depth to your outfit.  Remember to find socks that fit your feet and are made of a breathable material right for the season.

Ties, bow ties, and pocket squares

Perfect for those who want a splash of contrast, ties and pocket squares are fun accessories that can be worn even in less formal situations.  The right color or design can really make an outfit pop, and pocket squares are especially good at adding some personality to an otherwise plain looking blazer.  Look for high quality materials and colors that work with the shirts and blazers you already own

The wristwatch

The wristwatch is one of the easiest accessories to add, simply because it's very hard to mess it up.  A good watch will immediately give you presence and class and it's never been easier or cheaper to get a high quality time piece.  Get a watch that matches your personality that really says something about the man you aspire to be.  It's easy to buy a couple of different watch bands as well to keep your watch versatile - get a nice brown strap for work or formal events, and a colorful nylon one for summer.  You'll have a timeless piece that truly never goes out of style. 

The rest

Sunglasses, cuff links, leather bags - the list of accessories you can get into is endless.  Just remember the basic rules and have fun with it and hopefully you won't end up broke, and you'll have some cool new gear that's both practical and stylish.

Previous foolproof guides:

Nailing down the perfect fit

Foolproof guide to layering

Menswear Ideabook: 10/10

The Dapper Traveler

Check out this internationally inspired look by our friend Faissal Yartaa featuring the Aggregate Array shirt by ASPECD.

Get the look:

“Swiss Army Suited”

These days, I never know where my day is headed—could be rubbing elbows with the who’s who of architects in NYC or just doing some grocery shopping for a quiet dinner at home.

Behind the scenes: Components of a tie

At ASPECD, we're passionate about the workshop experience and making quality products from scratch.  In honor of our latest tie release, we wanted to invite you into our workshop and take you on a tour of tie making.  First up: learning the key components that make up each and every tie:

The shell

The shell is the material you see on the outside of the tie. Like shirts, the materials used generally depends on the season and occasion, but common fabrics include silk, cotton, wool, linen or polyester (or blends of these).

The keeper

The keeper is a small band of fabric that's attached to the back of the tie, to keep both ends of the ties straight. The material here is usually the same fabric as the shell or envelope, but contrast fabrics can also be used for some more personality.

Tip Lining

The tip lining refers to the fabric used on the backside of the tie's end. When the tip lining used is the same as the shell material, it's referred to as a "self-tipped" tie. 

The Bar Tack

When the tie is sewn shut, each end of the tie is secured using a hand sewn bar tack. This stitch adds support to the tie, as well as a decorative finish. 

Interlining

Interlining is the material inside of the tie - the stuff that gives the tie it's shape, body, and weight. Generally the material is wool, or a wool blend, and the weight varies depending on the material of the shell, and the desired weight and feel of the tie. 

How to coordinate colors

Use our easy-to-follow cheat sheet and learn how to put together the perfect color coordinated outfit.  Improve your style by matching your clothes in a flattering way - it's one of the most impressive fashion skills to have, and it's not difficult once you learn the basic rules:

Over the last two weeks, we've learned fit is fundamental to dressing well, and how to layer clothes in a stylish and practical way.  This week we're tackling a classic issue - matching colors.  

The Foolproof Rules

If colors were a video game, easy mode would be your neutrals: black, brown, blue, white.  These colors tend to be easy to wear no matter your skin tone, and match well pretty much anything, in any season of the year.  But if you're reading this, you've probably mastered easy mode and want to push forward.  Here's how you get started:

Don't go crazy: Remember, learning to wear color (like any style improvement) is a long term process like working out.  You want to focus on having positive experience so you can stick with it and finish a winner. Don't blow a lot of money at once on colorful clothes you'll never feel comfortable wearing

One at a time: Start slowly and add one brighter color per outfit.  Use an accessory like a tie or belt to add a splash of color to your look without going overboard and looking like a clown.  Keep the rest of the outfit neutral and you can improve your style in a way that works with your existing wardrobe

Know yourself: A great color game needs to take into account the unique tones of your birthday suit.  Men with darker skin can wear brighter colors while those with paler complexions should stick to light or medium hues.

Color Coordination

As you get more comfortable wearing color, inevitably you'll want to combine various colors together.  To make sure they match well, keep outfits organized around a single color family.  The easiest way to do this is to print out a color wheel like above and keep it by your closet or mirror.  Then use these foolproof combinations below to plan your outfit:

The monochromatic: This one is the easiest - Find one color and stick to different shades of that color.  Colors like blue make a great starting point as you can start with stuff you already own like a dark wash denim and pair that with a lighter blue shirt and navy blazer.  Push yourself to use something brighter on one piece to elevate your style further.

Complimentary: Use colors on the opposite side of the color wheel.  Nature and evolution has wired our brains to think these colors look nice so why fight it.  Start with a color you already own and feel good about (blue is a good choice) and go from there.  

Split Complimentary: Now we're getting advanced.  Start with a foundational color and then pick the two colors on either side of it's complimentary color to accent your outfit.  For example, starting with blue in the form of a blue blazer then add red-orange and yellow in the form of a tie, pocket square, or belt.

As you get more comfortable and develop an eye for color, you'll learn to trust your own judgment in what looks good.  Have fun with it an enjoy the compliments!

Previous style challenge features:

Nailing down the perfect fit

Happy Octo-bear!