ASK A FRENCH

First, there’s a striking beautiful interior, wooden, minimalist, all in curves. Then the lovely details like the cutlery hidden inside you’re table’s secret drawer. This tastefully designed restaurant has the atmosphere of an art gallery while it’s all about gastronomy. Or “bistronomy” more precisely, meaning affordable gastronomic french style cuisine with a Taiwanese twist. No surprise as it’s been conceptualised by famous “born in Taiwan” and “made in France” Chef André Chiang. Creative and spontaneous, that’s how he and his local team led by Chefs Zor Tang and Alain Huang wanted RAW’s menu to sound like. Highlighting seasonal produce, what comes on your plate carry exciting names like “Uni Hokkaido Peanut Butter Peas”, “Sakura Ebi Cappellini” or “Chocolate Burnt Butter Mochi”. Their daring mantra “Never be afraid to make mistakes” has worked as they don’t seem to have made any.  Since they first opened a year ago, Raw has became one of the most sought-after restaurants in Taipei.   Rare are the Chefs you’d follow anywhere they settle a business. André is one of them. Singapore, check, Taipei, check, Paris, next.

ASK : your way to the restroom, a must-see… Kidding aside, make sure to make your reservation early in advance. If not, you might have a chance on waiting list. Until January 10th they’ll only be serving a “best of the year menu”. Website Maps

Sakura Ebi Cappellini

Or shall I say get really really hot? Only 20 minutes away from downtown Taipei, Beitou neighborhood is (not well) known (enough) for its incredible hot springs. Up to 100 degrees Celsius water boiling underground. Much loved by the Japanese who installed public baths during the occupation era, this also former red light district has been revamped and offers quite a few hidden gems. So jump on a scooter taxi (Beitou is the only district in Taipei where you can find some), ride through lush green sceneries, and soak into those hot springs believed to carry healing virtues. 

Solo Singer - One of a kind in Taipei

Nestled between narrow back lanes and old houses, Solo Singer is a “Slow Life” hotel with a warm feeling. The curators have preserved the original space of what used to be a 1960′s Inn, and kept vintage items from its previous life. Rooms inspired by Virginia Woolf’s A Room of One’s Own were designed by 18 different artists, we can’t thank them enough for having created such unique shelters. Solo Singer is not only a hotel, but a café as well (Solo Singer Life), hosting local and cultural exhibitions. B&B concept has never felt so good, and creative. And in matter of good (food) advices, friendly Heather, Anny & Co would be your best partners in crime. ASK : For a non Japanese room if you’re not used to lying down on a wooden floor with a very (very) thin mattress.  Website Maps

The Small White Room

Solo Singer Life - Fan Tuan for breakfast

On your way to (or on your way back from) Beitou Spring, grab a drink at the Cai Yuan Yi stall. There’s always a little line of people waiting to get one of the best sweet and refreshing black teas in town. Maps

Ice Tea at the Cai Yuan Yi stall

Beitou Spring

Nothing fancy in here, but the place is better maintained than Long Nai Tang (the oldest hotspring in Beitou). There’s a complementary fish spa upstairs and not so cosy private bathing rooms. So I’d recommend to jump into the public ones downstairs for a true local experience. You’ll have to go naked, girls and boys separated of course. Maps

Fish Spa at Beitou Spring

Beitou Library

If you’re not into hot springs, but more into books and/or architecture, another good reason to go to Beitou is to visit its public “Green” library. Get your hands on one of the few books in English and relax on the open air balcony. Maps 

Beitou Hot Spring Museum

In the Hot Spring Park you’ll also find the Hot Spring Museum. Originally built to house Beitou’s first public bath house, this “Taisho Roman” historical monument officially reopened as the city’s hot spring museum. Relics found by the locals before renovation are still displayed in the pool. Architecture lovers here’s another one for you. Maps

Millennium Hot Spring

Take a walk around the Thermal Valley or so called “Hell Valley” where you can watch sulfur water steaming out of a volcano’s crater. Maps

If not discouraged, you might want to take another bath. Head to the outdoor Millennium Hot Spring then, where you’re obliged to wear a swimsuit this time. Plunge into various pools which temperatures increase as you get to the top. I confess not being able to stay more than one minute in the 45 °C one. A fun experience though. Maps

Marshal Zen Garden

If you’re looking for something posher, Marshal Zen Garden located next to the Beitou Museum on top of the hills has a wonderful view. Former residence of military leader Marshal Zhang Xueliang, this property now offers fine dining and luxury private hot spring rooms overlooking the valley. But if you only want to get your feet wet, it’s possible. Maps

Foot Bath at Marshal Zen Garden

Not quite the same atmosphere, but if you’d rather stay in Beitou’s bustling area, there’s a free public foot bath in Fuxing Park.

Maps 

That would give you the opportunity to stop by North Pole Soft Ice and taste one of Ashin’s (the famous taiwanese lead singer of the rock band Mayday) favorite sweet treats. Maps

Wu’s beef noodles

Whereas most of the restaurants close early in Beitou, Wu opens daily from 12 am to 12 pm. It’s crowded during peak hours but that would be the right moment to go, to mix with the locals. And to meet Kerry, the lady’s whose family have been owning this restaurant since 1980. Indoor or Outdoor, the place is bursting with energy. I have a preference for the outdoor tables, as you can watch the cooks prepare fresh noodles. ASK : For some Wanton as well. In their own style, they’re as good as the beef noodles.

Another side of bustling Beitou, the market with its street food and the famous local tempuras. Not to be mistaken with the Japanese ones, the Taiwanese tempuras are more “fish ball” like. Maps

From Beitou Market, on your way to A-Jen Bakery, catch a glimpse of what used to be old Beitou on Zhong Zhen Old Street.

Beitou A-Jen

A bakery helmed by 2 lovely sisters, making delicious Cheesecakes, Tiramisu and must-eat pineapple cakes. Maps

Pineapple cake jar at A-Jen Bakery

Sheme House

This beautiful café located in a renovated barn has a micro coffee roastery. Their delicious cakes are baked in house. People looking for hipster vibes, here it is… ASK : For their homemade Gao Fei coffee to bring back home. Maps

The reason that motivated me to visit Kyoto is… a flea market. We all have our silly whims don’t we... And a desire to learn more about old Japan history of course. Cause in Kyoto, once Japan’s Imperial capital,  you really do feel like time travelling.So there I went, took my Shinkasen ticket from Tokyo (200 euros for a round trip but it’s worth it) and spent a day only. Although I wish I had more time to explore, The “city of the ten thousand shrines” obviously led me to its marvelous temples. But also to a few good lifestyle surprises, like relaxing in an old coffee-shop with a “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” atmosphere, or eating a delicious japanese style stuffed omelet in a cosmetic brand restaurant.

Fascinating, moving, endearing, puzzling, those words are not enough to describe how amazing Tokyo is. Fall is one of the best seasons to visit, the weather still allows you to take naps in sunny parks under green, golden and red trees. Here, you’ll sometimes feel like you’re on another planet and a bit in France also curiously, as it's not unusual to see bakeries and boutiques carrying french names (spelled in a funny way). I won’t lie, I spent more than 3 days in Tokyo, incidentally scenic beauty remains on my mind. In my experience, here’s some of the best of what this incredible city has to offer. A 3 day journey as complete as possible. 

DAY 1 - Early breakfast Sushi and old Tokyo promenade

Start the day with an early breakfast at the must-visit Tsukiji Fish market. Stroll unhurriedly around Asakusa (Senso-ji thunder god temple), Ueno Park and Yanaka neighborhood to catch the best of old Tokyo.

Tsukiji fish market

This place could make the Sashimi addicts collapse. Tsukiji is a market where you’d spend hours. First of all if you choose to eat at the renowned and famous Sushi Dai or Sushi Daiwa you’re likely to literally queue for hours (especially if you go at dawn). But besides, wandering around the stalls, fish or not ( there’s even a cheese boutique) is a must do in Tokyo. For the completely addicts, you can attend the tuna auctions at 5 am. If not, going for breakfast at 8 or 9 is early enough. ASK : your way to Sushi Zanmai to avoid a long queue. Here no translation necessary as you pick plates from a conveyor belt. Spot the “Otoro” the best part of the tuna. A bit more expensive but where else in the world would you eat this quality of fish (fresh off the boat)? Maps

Senso-Ji & Asakusa

Asakusa neighborhood might remind you of some stereotypes seen in classic japanese movies or Miyazaki animation films. Old Tokyo is here, with the souvenir shops in bonus. All of that on you way to the impressive Thunder Gate and the Senso-ji (the city’s most visited temple) surrounded by beautiful little gardens. ASK : This is where to buy Kimonos, Yukatas (the summer version of kimono), flip flops… Those are not so easy to find elsewhere in Tokyo. Senso-Ji Maps 

Ueno Park

Ueno Park is simply beautiful and has a lot to offer. Walk around the temples (Tennoji, The five storey pagoda..) and couple your visit with a museum or two, (Tokyo national museum, Tokyo metropolitan art museum or The National Museum of Western Art designed by Le corbusier…) It’s huge, there’s even a Zoo here, and in spring you’d get a perfect picture of Hanami (Cherry Blossom). Ueno Park Maps

Museum of Western Art 

Lunch in old town Yanaka

Yanaka is a must-visit after a walk in Ueno Park. This beautiful neighbourhood that carries the traces of old Edo with its numerous little temples and traditional houses has survived  the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and damage from World War II. Its inhabitants have been fighting the disappearance of historic buildings ever since. Here, even the Yanaka Cemetery has got charm. The best way to discover the area is to explore randomly, but you’ll certainly need some breaks, here are 3 eating and chilling landmarks.

Kayaba Cafe, revamped Kissaten

Mirror ceiling and retro decor coupled with the traditional design of an old kissaten (tea room) give a unique atmosphere to this coffee shop. The place was recently transformed but first opened in 1938 and local people of all ages are regulars. You might wait a tiny bit for lunch but the homemade dishes (2 choices that change everyday) are worth the try. ASK: For the white chocolate and green tea cake. Goes well with the (too?) strong coffee they make. Website Maps

Kayaba bakery

Masami Shiraishi wears two hats, owner of the renowned “SCAI the bathhouse” gallery, (he was one of the firsts to show Takashi Murakami’s work), he also fullfills his passion for food by owning Kayaba Cafe and Kayaba Bakery. Just opened in spring, this little gem shares premises (think wooden houses from early 20th century) with a yoga room, a craft beer bar and an olive oil shop. You’ll essentially find bread here, fougasse type. Nothing Japanese  except the fact that they are made by a Japanese Baker. ASK: For the little Olive and cheese bread. Website Maps

Kokonn

On your way renting a bike at “Tokyo Bike Gallery”, you’ll find this lovely boutique selling little antiques, japanese crafts and ceramics. Yanesen neighbourhood doesn’t lack of cute little places but this one has the advantage of combining cafe and shop. Kokonn is located in the epicentre of the old temples area. A great place to chill and relax. ASK: For the green tea matcha french toast or an ice cream from “France dessert”. Facebook Maps

DAY 2 - Mori Museum, Tokyo City View and trendy Omotesando

Start the day with a museum overlooking the city in Roppongi. Then lunch, shopping and dinner in the trendy Omotesando area.

The Sun Café

Mori Art Museum & Tokyo City View

A Murakami exhibition runs until march 6th 2016.

In the heart of Tokyo, this city observation deck perched on the 52th floor of the Mori Tower is one of Asia’s greatest. First because it’s incredibly cosy (they installed a library and even a Ruinart champagne bar with a glass at 15 euros). If you’re lucky enough (mostly on clear winter days), you’ll catch a sight of mount Fuji. And 2nd because the ticket also gives you access to the very modern Mori (contemporary) Art Museum on the 53rd floor. Within this two floor experience, relax with a coffee at Cafe The Sun and shop some design souvenirs at the museum boutique. ASK : Before or after your visit, Don’t forget to pass by “Maman” the Louise Bourgeois monumental spider sculpture. Mori Art Museum - Website Maps

Tokyo City View

Lunch at Maisen

Maisen… well simply the best tonkatsu I ever ate. Since 1965, they have been serving this deep fried breaded pork cutlets. You can actually get a bit lost with all the varieties on the menu, if so just order the Kurobuta Tonkatsu (black pork), their signature dish. I’ll go for the fillet. You can also opt for the donburi (rice bowl), though the meat is less crunchy. For this unique pork experience, prepare to queue at pick hours. ASK : For the Tonkatsu sauce they sell at their delicatessen. Maisen Omotesando - Maps Website

Omotessando Koffee

Owner Eiichi Kunitomo, a Barista since 15 years, revamped a 1950 japanese home into a tastefully minimalist styled espresso and coffee kiosk. Zip the delicious coffee on a bench in their tiny tiny garden. Maps

The Airstream Garden

If Omotesando Koffee is too crowded, The Airstream Garden garden nearby is a good alternative. Opposite Decor and atmosphere though. Choose to have your coffee inside or outside a trailer. Nomad american philosophy in Tokyo, why not! Facebook

Breizh Café Still have some room for dessert after Maisen? une crêpe chez Breizh then? This french institution has actually opened its first outlet in Tokyo in the 90’s first. ASK : For the crêpe suzette or how not to feel guilty eating alcohol. Maps

Shopping, shopping

Around the metro Meijijingu-Mae, start shopping at Laforet Harajuku. This multy-level department store gathers brands by japanese designers mainly. Eccentric fashion but not only. It’s gigantic, so you might need to take a break at some of their indoor cafes. Continue towards Chicago for vintage kimonos, dresses and jeans. Then wander around Shibuya Cat, the trendy street where you’ll find the concept store United arrows (for high quality lifestyle as they say), W Closet for women casual, and Brand my star or Ragtag for other vintage hunting (more likely luxury brands this time). ASK : Your way to Ray Cassin & Germe my favs for girls at Laforet. Maps Laforet Maps Chicago Maps Ragtag

United Arrows

Ramen dining - Oreryu Shio ramen

A Tokyo foodista experience wouldn’t be complete without a stopover at a ramen vending machine. Here they have unusual ramen varieties. ASK : for the pork and lemon ramen, dreaming of it right now.

DAY 3 - Boho brunch, minimalist aesthetics and true japanese experience

Start with a Boho brunch at the Farmer’s market (weekend only), drop by the Pool Aoyama on your way to the magnificent Nezu Museum. Bath like a japanese at Shimizu Yu Onsen and fill your stomach at Itasoba Kaoriya to finish the day.

Farmer’s market at UNU 

This market pops up every weekend from 10am to 4pm. Around 60 smallholders from all over the country gather to sell their organic and pesticide free products. Love the food trucks.

You’ll also be able to find ceramics and other handicraft gems, and japanese stalls with french names (of course). ASK : to taste everything, this is foodie paradise. Maps

The Pool Aoyama

This place is a delight to the eyes. An ancient pool in a 1970’s apartment block converted into a boutique. Men’s streetwear mostly.  Website Maps

Nezu Museum

Calligraphy, painting, sculpture… Nezu Museum hosts an important collection of japanese and asian pre-modern art. 7 items have been designated as National Treasures. This former home to a wealthy industrialist collectionner is also worth the go for its coffee shop overlooking a beautiful garden. Minimalist design embraces traditional Japan. Architect Kuma Kengo’s intention was to create an experience of Wa, that stands for harmony. ASK : For the cake of the day after a look at the outstanding pieces of art. Checking the museum’s boutique might also be useful to bring some presents back home.

Website Maps

Shimizu Yu Onsen

Bathing naked with strangers might sound like a funny thing to do… But sinking into japanese hot springs (believed to have healing powers) is an incredible experience if you’re not too shy to do so. Shimizu Yu Onsen is not far from downtown, and features indoor baths and an outdoor bath with water with a different mineral composition and temperatures (a gold one and a black one).  How delightful to relax on the long chairs outside after bath. ASK : to rent towels or buy soap at the reception if you’re not bringing yours. And be careful to follow the whole protocol before bathing. Maps

Shop at the Onsen

Soba dinner at Itasoba Kaoriya

Time has seemed to stop in this chic noodle canteen. All wooden and simple, this Soba paradise located near Ebisu MRT is a hideaway from bustling Tokyo. And everything is about details, like the peanut that serves as a chopstick holder. ASK : for the soba with the sesame dipping. Dreaming of it right now. And for the “Soba you” (the hot water used to boil the noodles). Poured into the rest of your dipping it’s now a broth for you to drink. Maps

HOTEL?

CLASKA

Hotels in Tokyo are expensive, so unless you’re willing to stay in something not so tastefully designed or pay for a Palace downtown, here’s an alternative : Claska. Located within 10 minutes walk from Gakugeidaiku MRT in Meguro, this 1969 building was converted in 2003 into Tokyo’s first boutique hotel, contemporary with a japanese twist. Plus, they rent Tokyo bikes. Don’t forget to visit their shop and gallery called “Do”. And to go up to their wide terrasse, from where you can see the Mount Fuji in winter, well if the weather allows... ASK : For a DIY room. Handmade by a japanese designer, from construction to design. (around 110 euros for a double). Website Maps

ONE LUNCH ONLY OR TEA TIME ?

Higashiya Ginza

If you had time for only one lunch in Tokyo, besides going for Tonkatsu at Maisen, I’d recommend Higashiya in Ginza. For a refined lunch in a modern style tea house. Part a confectionery shop, the atmosphere here is so serene you could levitate. The typical menu (less than 30 euros) includes 2 types of tea, 2 starters, a main dish, brown or white rice, pickles, miso soup and a wagashi (the famous japanese confectionery). Products are seasonal here, meaning you won’t enjoy a strawberry mochi in november but most likely a candied persimmon. ASK : for what alcohol goes best with your wagashi if you’re not too “tea”. Website Maps

Candied Persimmon Wagashi

MISS FRANCE?

La brasserie de l’Institut Français

Surrounded by a peaceful garden, this brasserie bistronomique for lunch or brasserie gastronomique for dinner would fulfill a french meal desire. Jean-Jacques Garnier, director of the french institute has put all his heart in creating a great menu with Chef Yujiro Kaneko.  Here’s “scallop pudding”, “Terrine” or Kaburi beef in shallot sauce for you. Many specialities with fish as well.   Plus, l’Institut Français is only a 100 metres away from Kagurazaka, known as Tokyo’s french neighborhood. ASK : For the Pain Perdu (French toast), it’s Jean-Jacques’s “péché mignon”. Other desserts like the Mont Blanc are also worth the go. Also ask for the special events they host like wine tastings. And look out, Guest Star Chefs might pay a visit ( Amélie Darvas, Jean-Paul Hévin...) Closed on Mondays.  Sundays lunch only. Maps

PARTY?

Bar & Disco : New Sazae

New Delhi is not new at all. Sprawling ruins of dynasties intrude on the modern side of the city and surprisingly appear in gardens and at every corner. Making it a fascinating necropolis. It’s not like you can choose between New or Old Delhi, India’s capital has somehow continually evolved keeping track of its past. To our great delight, history is everywhere. Delhi was also home to Gandhi , the “father of the nation” who had spent his last days in the Birla house before he was assassinated. So Delhi green city, historical Delhi, lifestyle Delhi, you can experience those all at once.

A visit to Le Corbusier’s “Cité radieuse” is not limited to architecture lovers. Besides the MaMo (art center),  the hotel, the restaurant and a bakery, you’ll find another gem at number 318 of this incredible building people of Marseille used to call “la Maison du fada” (the crazy man’s house). In cosy “SEMIS boutique expresso” you can enjoy a cup of coffee, fresh orange juices, cookies and muffins from Coogie coffee shop and buy traditionally knitted pieces from the cool brand “Atelier Semis”. A sweet treat while shopping. ASK : For the home made ice cream… in Marseille.

This former butcher shop revamped as a concept store is one of a kind in Marseille. Tastefully designed, co-founded by Olivier Amsellem (photographer) and Charlotte Brunet who curate fashion items and lifestyle products not to be found anywhere else in town.  Aesop, Olympia Le Tan, Christophe Lemaire, Opening Ceremony, Adieu Paris… Plus, there’s a hidden charming little garden hosting events at the back. ASK : Olivier for some tips, where to eat, where to be. He knows the city like the back of his hands.

This is too good to be true. Old fashioned but modern. Chic but affordable. The oldest hardware store in France hasn’t aged a day in two centuries. From “savon de Marseille” (soap) to “Pierrot Gourmand lollipops”, here’s where you’ll find everything. Lifestyle paradise. ASK : How to go to “Manufactures françaises” If you’re looking for made in France products only. Part of Maison Empereur, this little shop tucked in Le panier (one of Marseille’s loveliest neighborhoods) offers what’s best.

The charm of the countryside in the heart of Marseille? Bohemian style? Possible at La Passarelle. This Meditteranean restaurant serves healthy and tasty dishes all made with organic products. Vegetable and fruit salad, grilled fish or Kefta in a big garden near a Pétanque playgroung… Here it is.

ASK : If they’re open as they close in October when it starts getting too cold. And if they’re not, you can try tapas at their bar L’Alimentation Générale.

Friendly Christian Qui, former landscape architect has trained 6 months in California and learned cutting techniques in order to become the fish master he is today. So there he goes, working all by himself  behind a little bar and transforming the morning’s small-scale fishing products into delicious and creative sashimis from Marseille. Enjoy them in an intimate and relax atmosphere between some Miso soup and oysters. 12 table settings here and dinner only. ASK : To have a look at Christian’s vinyle collection. And let the music play.

This multi-label concept store is unlike any other you’ve seen so far in the city. The first thing that crosses your mind is “Where am I?”. Well basically, you’re in Walid Zaazaa’s creative mind, a world where art, architecture and fashion all come together. This French fashion designer has worked with brands like DKNY and Calvin Klein for 15 years before opening what is today the most avant-gardist and coolest store in town. More than half of the brands you’ll find here are new to Singapore. Think Gilet, Inari, Mads Norgaard or Maison Olga... And by coming here, you’d definitely save a shopping trip to Japan, Denmark or France. Zaazaa’s idea is to welcome everyone, “no matter if it’s to buy an affordable postcard, or to get a 300 dollars Maison Kitsuné dress”. That sounds like a lovely Manifesto. ASK : What’s coming up. The store also aims to host events and exhibitions, Daniel Buren for example might come soon.

Website Maps

Shop lifestyle at Manifesto

André Chiang, born in Taiwan, had worked under French master Chefs such as Pourcel, Robuchon, Troisgros, Gagnaire… before he decided to settle in Singapore and call his restaurant home. This charming heritage house behind a welcoming little olive tree, takes you on a culinary journey and into André’s creative universe based on an “Octaphilosophy”. Unique, pure, texture, memory, salt, south, artisan and terroir. The result is French, but different. Nouvelle cuisine, but not too much. In this place awarded best restaurant in Singapore, the meat comes from France (4 times a week), and lunch is worth the 100 dollars + you’d spend once in a while (or a lifetime) on a gastronomic restaurant. The daring “veal aspic” basically a deconstructed revamped “tête de veau”, would make you surprizingly ask for more brain, tongue, and other kind of offal you thought you’d never eat. Menu changes daily, but his signature dessert the “Snickers” chocolate bar (new creation each year) remains. The 2015 version is to die for. And when André leaves you a note on a menu sheet saying “Life is about good food, good wine and lots of good friends”, it’s just delectable. ASK: To be seated downstairs to feel the kitchen vibes. Website Maps

Veal Aspic

Snickers 2015

“Blue Mansion” or “Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion” is a house that would tell incredible stories if being questionned, well if it could speak. Once the property of Asia’s wealthiest man in the 19th century, it is today one of the most interesting attractions in Penang, an illustration of the best of heritage architecture. A visit to the Blue Mansion throws you deep back in time. A time where Southeast Asia was a promising land, a time when Feng Shui was taken absolutely seriously. I wouldn’t recommend to dine as the food is “so-so” but the tour is a must-do in Penang. Even Catherine Deneuve, for a scene in the movie Indochine has been here.  Those in pursuit of true Beauty won’t be disappointed. ASK : If there are any rooms available to spend the night... Though some people say it’s haunted. But rumors you know... Website Maps

Sinkeh (“New comer”) is some kind of treasure you’d want to keep secret. But because owner and stage director Chee Sek Thim puts 20% of the benefits into programming, meaning each guest contributes to support the Penang art scene, a hidden gem has to be unveiled.