All About Ami

Way back in February 2016, I was inspired to make a cabled blanket of some sort after the popularity of my “Cabled Slouchy Beanie” and since I was designing my “Cabled Legwarmers” at the same time.  It was around this time that I also began my partnership with Lion Brand Yarn, so I excitedly browsed through their website to determine which yarn I wanted to use for this blanket.  I came across their “Color Clouds” that they had just launched, and it looked very intriguing!  It is classified as a Jumbo level 7 yarn, a brand new weight class that has been added due to the popularity of very thick yarns and arm knitting.  It is 100% acrylic and machine washable.

I decided to go with the “Travelers Tan” colourway as I loved the blend of tan and white, and of course I always gravitate towards neutrals.  I knew cables would look gorgeous in this colourway!

I was inspired to learn new cabling methods when a reader sent me a message through Ravelry and told me to check out these “Cable Crochet Squares” by Elizabeth Ham.  In her free Ravelry download and post HERE, Elizabeth details how to do various crochet cables and has accompanying YouTube videos as well.  I was drawn to the “Single Plaited Square” as it had a braided look to it, and I decided to use this technique to design my blanket!  I would HIGHLY recommend checking out her Youtube tutorial HERE to see the braided cables in action as this is how I learned how to do it (be sure to check out all three videos as Elizabeth has divided the tutorial into three parts)!  I started off by doing a series of foundation single crochets (see how to do this stitch HERE) with my Clover Amour 15 mm hook.

I drew up my design, determining how many stitches I would need to have three braided cables, front post stitches framing these cables, and three stitches in between each cable and frame.  I was done the first row of my blanket after doing 50 foundation single crochets.

Next, I worked single crochets across for Row 2.  It is important to note that ALL EVEN ROWS are worked the same, by working single crochets across.

Row 2 is complete!

Row 3 is when the cabling begins!  

To begin Row 3, I did three single crochets in the first three stitches.  Next, I worked two Front post double crochets (Fpdc) in the next two stitches 2 rows below (of Row 1, where the arrow is pointing).

The Front post double crochets have been worked.  See how they bump out?

After the two Fpdc’s, I then single crocheted three stitches.  Next, I did six Fpdc’s across the next six stitches 2 rows below.

The six Fpdc’s have been worked!

I then did three single crochets across the next three stitches.  I then repeated the pattern again until the end (i.e. two Fpdc’s, three sc’s, six Fpdc’s across).

Row 3 is complete!

I then flipped my work and began Row 4.  Remember that all even rows are worked the same: by working single crochets across.

The even rows work up quickly since you’re just single crocheting along!

Row 4 is complete!

I then turned my work and began working Row 5.

I started Row 5 by once again doing three single crochets.  Then, I worked 2 Fpdc’s across the next two post stitches from two rows below (the previous Fpdc’s from Row 3) as indicated by the arrows. 

These Fpdc’s really help frame the braided cables as you’ll see later on.  Working around the posts from two rows below helps to build the framing upwards!

Next, I skipped two post stitches (1 and 2 in photo below) and worked two Front post triple crochets (Fptc) in the next two post stitches (3 and 4 in photo below).

Below you can see I’ve worked Fptc’s across the third and fourth posts.  Next, I need to work BEHIND the post stitches I just made and work 2 Fptc’s in the two skipped post stitches (1 and 2 in the photo above).

I’ve placed my fingers behind the post stitches to show where you need to insert your crochet hook.

Thus, your crochet hook goes behind the posts and works Fptc’s around those initial skipped posts.

Now four Fptc’s have been worked.  You then work 2 Fpdc’s across the next two post stitches.

Your initial set of cabling is complete!  Now you repeat the same process across!

For Row 6, you once again single crochet across.  Now we will begin Round 7!

The beginning of Row 7 is worked the same as the beginning of Row 5 where you do three single crochets, two front post double crochets, and three single crochets.  Now we will approach the cabling!  You work two Front post double crochets in the next two post stitches as indicated below.

You then skip 2 post stitches and work two Front post triple crochets in the next two post stitches as indicated below.

Now it gets a little tricky.  You need to work IN FRONT of the post stitches you just made and work two Front post triple crochets around the two skipped posts.  These two skipped posts are hard to see in the picture below!

In the picture below, I am showing you where those “hidden” stitches are that we skipped.  It is around these stitches that you need to work your two Front post triple crochets (note that the orientation of my finger is NOT how you would insert your hook- I’m just demonstrating where the stitches are).

Thus, you swing your crochet hook in front of the stitches you just made, and work your front post triple crochets in the indicated stitches.

You keep repeating this pattern across for Row 7.  Below I’ve indicated the order of the stitches so you can see where all six stitches of the cabling are located for subsequent rows as you build up the cabling!

You keep repeating rows 4-7 until Row 77!  It’s amazing watching your beautiful braided cables build up!

Don’t these braided cables look gorgeous?  The texture is stunning, and the light colours really help show off the intricacy of the design!

I had so much fun working up my blanket as it kept me warm as I was crocheting it.  Repeating rows of these gorgeous braided cables was very relaxing!

I started a couple of afghan projects as a pre-teen when I was first learning how to crochet, but I never ended up finishing any of them.  Thankfully, this blanket works up very quickly since it uses jumbo yarn and such a large crochet hook!

For the edging of my blanket, I joined my working yarn at any point and began single crocheting around.  

I worked three single crochets in each of the four corners.

Single crocheting around helps finish off the edges!

I then slip stitched to close my round and began working back post single crochets around to really help define the border and give it beautiful edging!

You work back post single crochets by inserting your crochet hook in front of the post of the stitch!

Doesn’t this border edging look beautiful?  It has an almost braided look to it too!

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Here is the free pattern for the “Chunky Braided Cabled Blanket”!  

***You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE and on Craftsy HERE!  This beautifully formatted PDF includes the cabling tutorial, step-by-step pictures and pattern, and is a total of 7 pages including the cover page! 

Materials:

15 mm Clover Amour hook

Jumbo Yarn (I used Lion Brand Yarn’s “Color Clouds” in “Travelers Tan”, 20 balls.  Each skein of Color Clouds is 55 yd/50 m for reference.)  In total, I used 1100 yards of Color Clouds for my blanket.

Special stitches:

Front Post Treble Crochet (Fptc): Yarn Over (YO) twice, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from front to back). YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times.

Front Post Double Crochet (Fpdc): YO, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from front to back of stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, (pull through 2 loops) twice.

Back Post Single Crochet (Bpsc):  Insert hook in front of post of stitch (insert hook from back to front of stitch), YO and pull up loop, YO and draw through two loops on hook.

Notes: 

All even rows are single crochet rows.  

All Fptc’s and Fpdc’s are worked in indicated stitches 2 rows below.

To increase the width of this blanket with more cable cycles, add multiples of 14 stitches.

Try holding two strands of super bulky yarn (level 6) together as a substitute for the Jumbo level 7 yarn.

To see videos of the Braided cables, see Elizabeth Ham’s very helpful 3-part YouTube tutorial HERE!

Row 1: Foundation single crochet 50. (50 sts)

Row 2 & all even rows: Ch 1, turn.  Starting in second st from hook, sc in each st across.  

R3: Ch 1, turn.  Sc 3, Fpdc in next 2 sts 2 rows below, sc 3. *Fpdc in next 6 sts 2 rows below, sc 3, Fpdc in next 2 sts 2 rows below, sc 3*, rep 3 times. 

R5: Ch 1, turn.  Sc 3, Fpdc in next 2 post sts, sc 3.  *Skip 2 post sts, Fptc in next 2 posts, working BEHIND post sts just made, Fptc in 2 skipped post sts.  Fpdc in next 2 post sts, Sc 3, Fpdc in next 2 post sts, sc 3*, rep 3 times.

R7: Ch 1, turn.  Sc 3, Fpdc in next 2 post sts, sc 3.  *Fpdc in next 2 post sts.  Skip 2 post sts, Fptc in next 2 post sts.  Working IN FRONT of post sts just made, Fptc in 2 skipped post sts.  Sc 3, Fpdc in next 2 post sts, Sc 3*, rep 3 times.

Repeat Rows 4-7 until Row 77.

Border: 

Row 1: With cabled side of blanket facing you, Sc around perimeter, making sure to do 3 sc in each corner.  Sl st to first sc.

Row 2: Chain 1, Back post single crochet around.  Sl st to Chain 1 and fasten off.

Finished Dimensions: 42″/107 cm x 53″/135 cm

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I love the luxurious look of my Chunky Braided Cabled Blanket!  Even though I finished this project in March, I thought I would wait to post about it in the fall/winter when everyone is picking up their crochet hooks again and getting ready for the dip in temperature.  T’is the season for cuddling up in warm blankets whilst sipping hot chocolate and apple cider!

Note that this blanket is more of a throw blanket with its sizing.   I underestimated how much yarn I would need to complete my blanket as I originally thought I would only need 10 skeins of Color Clouds.  However, as I started working up the pattern, I could quickly tell that I would need much more.  Keep in mind that each skein of Color Clouds is 55 yards/3.5 oz, compared to a skein of Wool-Ease Thick & Quick which is 106 yds/6 oz.  In the end, I needed 20 skeins to complete my project.  Out of all the crochet projects I’ve worked on, this definitely used up the most skeins of yarn.  You can try playing around with the sizing and possibly hold two strands of super bulky (level 6) yarn as a substitute for the jumbo (level 7) yarn.  Always keep an eye out for sales, and jumbo yarn can sometimes be found on clearance too, especially at the end of the season!

While we were out during a family walk enjoying the beautiful fall landscape, I brought my blanket along so we could snap some pictures!  I love snuggling the girls and I make sure I get enough cuddles with them each and every day! Just look at their adorable expressions!

Here I am wrapped in my blanket!  Wouldn’t the braided cables make a gorgeous sweater or wrap?  I think the girls ran off to play with leaves along the side and I was trying to peek at them and see what they were up to!

I am so glad I learned the technique of braided cables as they are simply stunning!  It was so much fun seeing the braided cables build up, and I am in love with my finished blanket.  If you are a knitter, be sure to check out Jessica of Mama in a Stitch’s “Endless Cables Chunky Knit Throw Pattern” as she also used Color Clouds in the same colourway!  We thought it was so funny when we were working with the exact same yarn...and using it for cabled blankets!  It’s neat seeing the different looks of crochet and knit cables, and I hope to learn the technique of knitting cables one day.  Keep up to date with my work through my Facebook page, Twitter (@AllAboutAmi) and Instagram (@AllAboutAmi)!  I know many of you are looking for a good blanket project to tackle, so I hope this inspires you to try a cabled one!

{This post is sponsored by Lion Brand Yarn!  I’ve loved working with their yarn throughout the years and I’m thrilled that I get to collaborate with them every month!}

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie Lau of All About Ami.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it.

Sneak peek of upcoming step-by-step blog post & free pattern: Chunky Braided Cabled Blanket!

Recently I blogged about my amigurumi Jiji the black Cat that I crocheted HERE as a part of our family cosplay at the Edmonton Expo.  It’s been a tradition of ours to dress up as a family, and last year we went with a Totoro theme as pictured below!  The girls look so little!  I crocheted the red ball accessories adorning my ponytails, as well as the red strip around my hat.

As you can probably tell, we love Studio Ghibli!  Ryan and I actually went to visit the Ghibli Museum four years ago when we traveled to Japan, and it was amazing!  It was neat seeing the exhibitions, the beautiful artwork, and going to the rooftop garden.  Here are just a couple of photos from that trip four years ago...

I was actually pregnant with Myla too, so it was our babymoon!

We weren’t allowed to take pictures within the museum, but we could on the rooftop garden!  Fans of “Laputa: Castle in the Sky” will get excited to see this!

I picked up some little Totoro souvenirs back then!  Inside the museum, they even had a catbus for children to play in- we’ll definitely have to come back with the girls sometime in the future as they would LOVE it!

Another Ghibli movie that we love is “Kiki’s Delivery Service”!  If you read my previous Jiji blog post, there will be some repeat pictures, so bare with me! Kiki’s Delivery Service is a 1989 film about a young witch who moves to a new town and learns how to be independent and make a living!  Kiki goes on this adventure with her loyal cat, Jiji.  As you can see in the picture below, she wears a large red bow headband, a black/navy blue dress, a brown satchel bag, and red flats.

Kiki’s love interest is Tombo, a boy who wears a red and white striped shirt, black glasses, blue jeans, and brown shoes.

There are two adorable cats in the movie: a white cat named Lily and a black cat named Jiji!

I decided to crochet Kiki’s big bow headband, and I actually had experience crocheting headbands before with my Minnie Mouse Ears Headband as pictured below (free pattern HERE)!  This was actually from the same Japan trip when we went to Tokyo Disneyland!  This time, however, I would be making a much LARGER bow!

I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Vanna’s Choice in the colour “Scarlet” as it is the perfect bright red!

I started off with a series of foundation single crochets.  This was the height of my bow as each subsequent row would add to the width of the bow.  I used a 2.75 mm crochet hook to get nice and tight stitches which would allow my bow to be more stiff and hold its shape better!

After crocheting 48 rows, i was happy with the width.

Don’t those stitches look tight and even?

I then smoothed out the edges by single crocheting around the entire rectangle, doing three single crochets in each corner.

It was then time to pinch the rectangle together to form the bow!  I pinched it as shown below with the rectangle folded in the middle.

I threaded some yarn through a yarn needle and passed it upwards through the center...

And then passed it back down through the center.

I then tied a couple of knots very tightly.

I then crocheted a narrow strip as the middle knot that would later be folded around the bow!

I grabbed an extra headband I had in my house and began crocheting around it as shown HERE.  I would definitely recommend using a headband that has “teeth” towards the top (e.g. see HERE) so that it can better grip the yarn and stitches so they won’t slide around.  To really hold the stitches in place, we also added some hot glue on both edges so that there was no way that the stitches could slide off.

After that, we placed the bow ontop of the headband and wrapped the middle knot around both the bow and the headband.  I sewed it into place and Ryan also added some hot glue to help secure the bow and middle knot onto the headband!

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Here is the free pattern for my "Kiki’s Delivery Service Bow Headband”!

Materials:

2.75 mm Clover Amour Hook

Red medium worsted weight yarn, level 4 (I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Vanna’s Choice in “Scarlet”.)

Headband with teeth

Glue gun

Rectangle:

Row 1: Foundation single crochet 30 (30 sts)

Row 2: Chain 1, turn.  Starting from second st from hook, Sc 30 (30sts).

Row 3-48: Repeat Row 2.

Do not cut yarn.  Single crochet around border of rectangle, doing 3 single crochets in each of the 4 corners.

Pinch rectangle as shown in picture above.  Thread yarn needle and pass it up through the middle and then back down towards the bottom.  Tie multiple knot and pull tightly.

MIddle Knot:

Row 1: Foundation single crochet 8 (8 sts)

Row 2: Chain 1, turn.  Starting from second st from hook, Sc 8 (8 sts).

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.

Headband: Crochet around headband using tutorial found HERE.  Add hot glue to secure the ends onto the headband.

Place scrunched rectangle ontop of headband.  Wrap middle knot around rectangle and headband.  Sew ends of middle knot together.  Use hot glue to secure bow and middle knot onto headband.

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I was so excited to try on my Bow Headband and was delighted that it kept its shape very well!  At first we thought we would need to add some wiring, but the stitches were tight enough that the bow could stand up well by itself.

I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to find a dress that looked like Kiki’s, but I was sooo happy when I found this navy blue dress at Forever 21!  It is very comfortable, and it was less than $20.  I found my comfortable red flats from Forever 21 as well, and they were only $15!  My brown purse is an old Coach satchel, and Ryan found this wooden broom at a Halloween store.  We bought the girls’ cat shirts from Old Navy, their tutus from Walmart, and their cat ears from H&M and Claire’s.  We tried looking for a red and white striped shirt for Ryan at the mall, but it’s surprisingly hard to find (hehe I guess they’re not in style right now), so we had to buy a Waldo costume to get the Tombo look!

The girls thought it was so fun that we were dressing up as characters from Kiki’s Delivery Service!  We wanted to make sure they were comfortable so they could walk and sit with ease, and they loved wearing their tutus!

It was fun putting together this costume with items from the mall and at home, and I’m so proud of my crocheted bow headband!  I love the shape and how it turned out, and I hope you found my pattern helpful in case you want to dress up as Kiki and make one for yourself too!  I think it would make a cute headband when visiting the Disney parks too!

Don’t forget that you can check out my full blog post about my amigurumi Jiji HERE!  If you’re a Kiki’s Delivery Service fan, you must crochet him!  The pattern is very simple and the results are adorable!

We love dressing up as a family and cosplaying at events!  Last year, we went with a Totoro theme as you can see HERE!  It’s neat because as the girls are getting older, they understand more, so they are excited to dress up with us!  This year, we decided to go with another Studio Ghibli film that we love: Kiki’s Delivery Service!  It’s such a lovely movie that is a favourite of many, and the music is so beautiful.  Here are some pictures of the characters in case you’ve never seen the movie before!  Kiki is the main character as she goes off on a special journey with her loyal black cat named Jiji!

Kiki’s love interest is a boy named Tombo who wears thick black glasses and a red and white striped shirt!

The two adorable cats in the movie are named Jiji and Lily!

I knew I wanted to implement some crochet elements into our costume, so I decided to crochet Kiki’s giant bow headband (which I’ll share more about in a separate blog post), and my own Jiji!  I searched online to look for a Jiji pattern to see what was already out there, and  I decided to go with Anne Gee White of “A Gamer’s Wife’s” free Jiji pattern which can be found HERE on Ravelry!  Lion Brand Yarn’s Vanna’s Choice has a great colour selection, and I used their “Black” and “Scarlet” colours for my Jiji!

This pattern is interesting because it is worked from the top down as a whole piece.  That is, the head, neck and body are one continuous piece!  Here I am crocheting the top of Jiji’s head!  For reference, I used a 3.25 mm hook to get tight stitches.

The head is complete, and now it is time to crochet the neck and body!

I followed the pattern exactly in terms of stitch counts and did not change anything!

Here is the relative size of the body and head as you can see when I’m holding it!

We decided to make his tail poseable so that it could curve upwards!  Thus, we used wire and bent it into a circle with a long extention.  We inserted this circle into the bottom of Jiji before closing him up.  The wire that extends outwards is where we will add the tail (see my Monkey pattern HERE for more pictures and tips on adding wiring to amigurumi).  Keep in mind that wiring should be avoided if the amigurumi is for a baby or small child!

Then I crocheted the ears, front legs, and tail!

Ryan and I finished Jiji late one evening, and I did not take too many progress photos towards the end.  After attaching the ears, front legs and adding the tail to the wiring, it was now time for the felt details!  We used black and white felt for the eyes, white felt for the lining of the ears, and pink felt for the nose.

We decided to crochet an adorable red bow for our amigurumi Jiji as a nice finishing touch too!  I’ve written out the pattern I made up for the bow below!

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Jiji Red Bow Collar Pattern

Using 2.75 mm hook and Vanna’s Choice yarn in “Scarlet”,

Rectangle:

Chain 10

Row 1: Starting from 2nd chain from hook, Sc 9 (9 sts).

Row 2: Chain 1, turn.  Starting from 2nd chain from hook, Sc 9 (9 sts).

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.  Fasten off.

Middle Knot:

Chain 8

Row 1: Starting from 2nd chain from hook, Sc 7 (7 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Sew around middle of rectangle.

Collar

Chain 25.  Sew one side onto back of middle knot of bow.  Wrap around Jiji’s neck and sew other side onto back of middle knot of bow.  Alternatively, use hot glue to attach collar onto bow.

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I am delighted with how my amigurumi Jiji turned out!  The felt details make him look so adorable with his huge eyes and dainty little nose.  Ryan did all the precise felt cutting, and he always does an amazing job!

The little red bow collar is such a cute touch and a bright pop of colour!  It also makes him match with the giant bow that I was wearing too!

Adding wiring to the tail makes it very fun since you can bend and pose it in so many different ways!

Here are some pictures of us wearing our Kiki’s Delivery Service costumes before heading out to the Edmonton Expo!  Ryan is Tombo, I’m Kiki, Myla is Jiji, and Brie is Lily.  Myla is holding a plush Jiji that my parents bought for her from Japan (an official Ghibli souvenir), and my crocheted Jiji is on the floor haha...because Brie dropped him!

Here we are about to head into the Expo!  

It’s so much fun dressing up, and I’m glad I could add some crochet to my costume!  As you would imagine, Ryan got mistaken as Waldo a lot and people frequently exclaimed, “I found Waldo!” as they passed by Ryan haha.  Only astute Ghibli fans knew who we were dressed up as and they loved how the girls were involved too!  I’ll be blogging about the giant bow headband I made as I’d love to share the pattern with you in case you’d like to make one too!

I am so thankful to have joined a local crochet and knitting group several months ago, and I always look forward to our get-togethers!  Everyone brings their projects as we chat, sip, and busily work away on our crochet hooks and knitting needles.  Many of the women who are part of this amazing group run their own shops and businesses, and one such talented woman who I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know is Allison Barnes!  She is an indie dyer who spins her own yarn, sometimes with the help of her adorable son.  It was very memorable meeting Allison for the first time as she brought her wheel to the coffee shop, and I got to see her spin her gorgeous thick and thin wool in person.  From that moment on, I knew I wanted to try working with her gorgeous fiber as it was unlike any I had seen or felt before! 

I asked Allison if she could dye a custom colourway for me in one of my favourite combinations: blush pink, grey, and white (as evident throughout my blog)!  She excitedly accepted and we were thrilled to collaborate together!  A couple weeks later, my jaw dropped when I saw the absolutely perfect and gorgeous colourway Allison had created.  It is such a special feeling knowing that this wool was custom spun and dyed just for me!  This hank of wool in and of itself is such a beautiful piece of art.  Every once in a while I would take it out and marvel at its beauty before I actually began working with it!

On the label it states that this wool is a super bulky 100% merino wool, with about 82 yards/4 oz.

I unwound the hank and turned it into a ball so that it would be easier to work with!  Isn’t this a beautiful mess?

The thickness variation of this wool is AMAZING.  Look at the difference between the fluffy super bulky sections versus the very thin section.

Here is my wool all wound up in a ball!

I knew I wanted to knit a cowl with this wool since it is extremely soft and warm.  Knitting requires less yardage, so I knew I would be able to make a larger cowl than if I were to crochet with it.  I wasn’t quite sure what needle size to go with since there is such a large variation in thickness.  I ended up starting with my 12.75 mm Clover Takumi needles and casting on 60.

I decided to use the basic stockinette stitch for this cowl as I love the classic look of it, and a simple pattern really shows off the gorgeous texture.  For other projects, you use more complex stitches and patterns to build texture (e.g. puff stitches, granite stitch, etc).  However, in this case the wool itself has texture, so a simple stitch is best to show off that texture (e.g. stockinette for knitting or double crochets for crocheting).  You can see the difference in sizes of the V’s below!

I am in love with these colours, as you can tell by my matching leggings!  It’s such a romantic and pretty colourway!

After I used up all my wool, I tried on my cowl.  It was too big for my liking (I wanted it to hug my neck more), and the stitches were looking too compressed and dense.  Thus, much to my chagrin, I decided to frog my work and start over.

I decided to use my 15.0 mm Clover Takumi knitting needles and casted on 40 stitches.  I was much happier with my result as the stitches were more relaxed and the cowl was tighter against my neck!  I was able to knit 29 rounds with enough wool to cast off.

Instead of weaving in my ends, I used my trusty Clover felting needle to felt the end to the rest of the cowl.  Felting wool is such a handy trick to know!

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Here is the free pattern for my Knitted Thick and Thin Cowl!

Materials:

4 oz Thick and Thin Merino Wool - mine is from Allison Barnes Collection (See Etsy listing for my custom colourway “Blush Bloom” HERE!)

Clover Takumi Bamboo 15 mm circular 24 inch knitting needles (US size 19) 

Optional: Felting needle, felting board/foam

Cast on 40 stitches.  Join

Round 1-29: Knit 40.

Cast off stitches.

Felt end to body of cowl using felting needle and foam board.  

Finished dimensions: 11″/28 cm in height, 13″/30 cm wide

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I adore my gorgeous Thick and Thin Cowl so much!  Since it is 100% merino wool, it is incredibly soft and warm and feels so luxurious against the skin.  

This will be my go-to cowl this winter as it perfectly exemplifies my style!  It’s elegant, classic, and my absolute favorite colours!  It’s amazing how simply adding a cowl immediately warms you up and makes such a bold fashion statement!

Allison was kind enough to let me name my custom colourway, and we decided to name it “Blush Bloom”!  I wanted to highlight the pretty blush pink in this colourway, and the wool can become so many different items...much like how a beautiful flower blooms!

Allison has created a custom listing for “Blush Bloom” HERE in her Etsy shop in case you want to get this exact colourway that I requested in our collaboration!  If you have a certain colour scheme in mind, do not hesitate to contact her!  You can check out the rest of her hand dyed and spun yarns HERE in her Etsy shop and keep up to date with her work on Facebook and Instagram too.  I am so pleased with how my cowl turned out and am incredibly honoured that we could collaborate together!  I must say that my gorgeous custom thick and thin yarn is the prettiest wool I’ve ever worked with, and I had so much fun!

We had the pleasure of visiting family in Nova Scotia last August, and we had such a fun trip!  The girls had wonderful cousin time, we filled our bellies with delicious seafood and fresh fruit that we picked ourselves, and we enjoyed the picturesque scenery.  One of the highlights of the trip for me was visiting a local farm wool shop called “Gaspereau Valley Fibres”!  My sister-in-law had told me about this shop before, and she was very excited to bring us for a visit!

My jaw dropped as soon as I entered the store as it had a warm, rustic, and welcoming atmosphere, and the walls had shelves upon shelves of beautiful wool!  I immediately gravitated towards the wool and started feeling it!

Ryan and the girls walked around too and Ryan took some gorgeous shots as I was feeling all the wool!  Their displays are lovely as they showcase both the beautiful yarn and also finished products made using their yarn, such as these pretty shawls!

According to their website, “Gaspereau Valley Fibres is a full service yarn store and offers classes in knitting, spinning, weaving, felting, weekly knitters' group and many special events.”  They also “supply yarn, natural fibres and equipment to knitters, spinners, weavers, felters and dyers.”  Their “extensive yarn and fibre collection includes many Canadian, organic and local natural and handpainted yarns” and even fibre from their own flock of Cotswold sheep! 

What a lovely place to take classes and get supplies!  This spinning wheel is beautiful!

The sales associate was very friendly and commented on how she adored working in this shop.  Who wouldn’t be happy surrounded by all this incredible wool in this serene environment?  And yes, that is a bathtub full of wool roving!

Sweet Myla was walking around as something caught her attention...

It was this adorable fairy knitting a sheep!  What a whimsical display!

I love being able to share my love of yarn and fibers with the girls at such a young age!  They were examining some mittens and feeling how warm they were in the photo below.  Isn’t the light magical?

These were some of the yarns that caught my eye!  These soft greys and pinks were so pretty!

I had never seen such a mix of fibers before: 70% silk and 30% baby camel!!!

I loved all the colours in this particular section...pretty much my blog colours right there!

I ended up buying some lovely colourways in their “Mineville Single Ply 100% Merino” which I’ll show you below!

I had such a blast visiting this local yarn store and bringing some woolly goodness home with me as a souvenir!

If you have travel plans for Nova Scotia, see if you can swing by Gaspereau Valley Fibres as it is a beautiful farm wool shop!  It’s so neat being able to see what is local and unique to a particular area!

These are the yarns I ended up purchasing!  Most of them are the Mineville Wool Project and the second from the top is Tree Wool (70% superfine merino, 30% Tencel) by “Fleece Artist” that is hand dyed by fine artists in Nova Scotia.  I’m not quite sure what to make with them yet, so please let me know if you have any ideas below (feel free to link to projects, especially for that tree wool)!

How awesome is this “Knitters Gonna Knit” pouch?  My pal Chantal of Knitatude has designed four different knit kits that come with some very useful items inside!  The phrases on the unbleached canvas pouches are clever and cheeky, and I definitely chose the most “tame” one haha...check out the rest HERE!

I absolutely adore the gold stork scissors that come in the kit!  It also comes with a darning needle, stitch markers, cable needles, a row counter, and a measuring tape (which I ALWAYS need for my projects).  They would make such a cute gift for beginner or experienced knitters!  Chantal has been working hard on these designs for many months, and it’s so exciting that she has created these awesome pouches to help us express our love of knitting!  They are screenprinted in Edmonton and hand sewn in Calgary, and such a fun way to bring along your knitting essentials!  Check out all the pouches HERE and see more of Chantal’s gorgeous knits in her Etsy shop HERE!

I’ve adored being able to crochet my own clothing items in recent years as my crochet skills have developed.  Two years ago, I modified a pattern I found online to make my “Easy Chunky Crochet Sweater”.  Last year, I designed my very first sweater called “The Granite Cape” which is a great transitional piece for the fall and winter.  This year I knew I wanted to try my hand at designing another sweater, this time with long sleeves!  People love cozying up with long-sleeved sweaters as the temperatures plummet! 

At the beginning of the year, I started an exciting collaboration with Lion Brand Yarn, and I am so honoured that I get to do monthly projects with them!  Sometimes they send me new yarns to try, and one such yarn was their "Shawl in Ball”!  I was very intrigued by this yarn as it was not available in stores at the time, and they said that you could create a shawl with just one ball of yarn, hence the name!

The construction of this yarn is unlike any I’ve worked with before.  As described on the website, “the self-striping brushed acrylic, run with a 100% cotton slub, has the look and feel of silk mohair”.  Thus, the acrylic has cotton wrapped around it, and it has a definite “halo” around the yarn because of its fuzziness.  This is a good choice of yarn for people who are allergic to wool since it has a beautiful texture but no actual wool in it. It is also classified as a level 4 (medium) yarn but, as I’ll show you below, I think it’s closer to a lightweight/DK level 3 yarn.

There are 8 colourways currently available, and since I love my neutrals, I went with the “Feng Shui Grey”!  I knew it would work up beautifully with the blacks, whites, and greys.  You can see the different colourways available HERE.    

Below you’ll see a side-by-side comparison of Shawl in a Ball to other level 4 (medium) yarns.  Number 1 is Shawl in a Ball, Number 2 is Heartland (which I used for my Granite Cape), and Number 3 is Vanna’s Choice.  As you can see, Shawl in a Ball looks much thinner than the other two!

Here is a close-up of a strand of Shawl in a Ball.  You can see some of the fuzziness which can make it a bit difficult to see your stitches when knitting or crocheting with this yarn.  I kept this in mind when designing my sweater and used stitches that would be easy to locate.  It is also important to note that the thickness of this yarn is variable: some areas are quite thin while others are much thicker where it becomes very fuzzy.  I think this adds a lot of character and visual interest to the piece, so don’t be alarmed if you come across a very thick and fuzzy section of yarn- just keep crocheting along!

Shawl in a Ball reminded me a little bit of Homespun yarn (see my Cozy Crochet Mittens made with this yarn HERE) as they both have a boucle texture with their looped/curled ply.  As you can see below, Homespun is much thicker (bulky level 5) compared to Shawl in a Ball though. 

Last week I was delighted to see Shawl in a Ball at my local Michaels!  They had all the colours available, making this yarn much more accessible for everyone.  You can also find it on Amazon HERE.  I personally don’t know of any yarn alternatives to Shawl in a Ball with its thinness and unique composition.  If you have any suggestions, leave a comment below as you now know its relative thickness compared to other yarns and what it looks like close-up!  If you would like more information about this yarn, you can also see a great video review of Shawl in a Ball by Brittany of BHooked HERE!  There are many beautiful shawl patterns out there for this yarn, but I thought it would be neat to design a sweater with it as I knew it would be gorgeous!  

Now we will begin the tutorial showing you the basic stitches you’ll need to know in order to crochet this sweater.  I decided to use white worsted yarn (Vanna’s Choice) for this part so you can see the stitches more easily!  After doing a row of foundation half double crochets (see how to do this HERE), you chain 2 and turn.  In this pattern, the Chain 2 counts as a stitch.  You then need to locate the 4th stitch from your hook as you will be working around the post of that stitch.

We will be working a row of Front post half double crochets.  This means that you will be inserting your hook behind the post of the stitch (insert hook from front to back of stitch) and working a half double crochet.   

You keep working front post half double crochets until you reach the last stitch, the Chain 2 from the beginning of the previous row.  Here you will work a normal half double crochet (not a front post half double crochet).

As your piece builds, you’ll see the middle section of front or back post half double crochets and two defined edges on each side (where the arrows are located) consisting of normal half double crochets and chain 2′s.

After completing your row of front post half double crochets, you Chain 2 and turn your work.  You’ll see a ridge of stitches protruding outwards as they are the front and back loops from the previous row (created when we worked around the posts).  Once again, you locate the 4th stitch from the hook as you will be working around the post of that stitch.

Now we need to work our Back post half double crochets.  Thus, you insert your hook in front of the post of the stitch (insert hook from back to front of stitch) and complete your half double crochet.  You can check out Sarah of Repeat Crafter Me’s video on how to do front and back post half double crochets HERE if you want some extra help!

Here you can see this from a better angle at the top.  Working around the posts of the stitches makes it much easier when working with fuzzier yarn when it’s hard to locate the front and back loops of the stitches.  It also creates a beautiful texture and almost knitted look!

Once you’ve worked your row of back post half double crochets, remember to do a normal half double crochet in that last stitch (the chain 2 of the previous row).

You keep alternating rows of front post half double crochets and back post double crochets for this pattern!  Pretty simple, right?

The only other concept we need to go through is working a Front post half double crochet Increase (Fphdc Inc).  We will be working many increases when we shape the sleeves of the sweater.  In the picture below, we will be working a Fphdc Inc in the next stitch.

First you complete a Fphdc as normal around the post of the stitch.

Next, you work a second Fphdc around the post of the same stitch.  There will be two Fphdc’s protruding from the post of the stitch below!  In the sleeve pattern, these increases are always worked along the edges only.  Remember where you work these increases as you crochet along the following row as they sometimes might be hard to see with Shawl in a Ball yarn.  When working Back post half double crochet Increases (Bphdc Inc), you do the same thing by working two Bphdc’s around the same post!

Now that we know how to do the stitches, we will begin crocheting our sweater with Shawl in a Ball!  Here I started doing my row of foundation half double crochets with a 4.5 mm hook.  

I started off with 102 foundation half double crochets, measuring 24″/61 cm long.

Then I chained 2 and worked the first front post half double crochet around the post of the 4th stitch from the hook.  Then I completed Row 2 consisting of front post half double crochets (and don’t forget that last half double crochet in the last stitch).

I kept alternating rows of front and back post half double crochets and my piece was building up gorgeously.  I LOVE how the colour changes so seamlessly, and it was very fun to work with this yarn because of the gorgeous self-striping.  This side shows the back post half double crochets.  You’ll notice that the sides tend to curl a lot, but we will be seaming the sides later on and you won’t notice it at all.  This is technically the “wrong side” of the sweater, but I love this look and texture too- I’ll have to keep it in mind for a future design!

This side shows the front post half double crochets!

The raised stitches create such a gorgeous effect!

This was how much I completed after using up 1 skein of Shawl in a Ball!

When it was time to join a new skein, I tried my best to match the colour with the skein that I had just used up.  For example, since I had left off with a white/light grey section, I tried to find a new skein that began with a white/light grey section to help continue the seamless colour change!

After completing 95 rows, my body rectangle was complete!  This body rectangle measured 24″/61 cm across and 30.5″/77 cm in height.

Here’s another look at these gorgeous colour changes and beautiful texture...

I then began working my first panel by alternating rows of 40 Fphdc’s and Bphdc’s.  I continued this pattern until I completed 95 rows (to match with the body rectangle).

Then I rejoined my working yarn on the far right side and began working the second panel the same way.

Both panels are complete!  My middle gap had 22 stitches (102 - 40 - 40).  

Now it was time to construct the sleeves!  I did a row of 31 foundation half double crochets.  The sleeves are constructed from the bottom up, so I measured it around my wrist and hand to see how big I wanted it to be.  To create a beautiful ribbed effect, I alternated Fphdc’s and Bphdc’s for Row 2.  I then alternated Bphdc’s and Fphdc’s for Row 3, causing every other stitch to either be raised forward or pushed back.

After 15 rows, my ribbing was complete!

I learned how to shape sweater sleeves by knitting my Bahia Sweater!  I love learning new skills and techniques and adding them to my repertoire so I can use them for future projects.  I systematically worked my increases after completing every 6 rows.  When doing the increases, I worked two increases on each side so that each increase row was adding four stitches (see written pattern below for further details).  This pattern makes it easy to adapt if you’re making larger or smaller sleeves since the increases are only worked towards the sides.

Towards the end I increased more rapidly to get a sort of “batwing” effect for the sleeves as I knew it would drape beautifully.

When I determined the length of my sleeve, I had to keep in mind that part of the front panels and body rectangle would fold downwards past my shoulders to become part of the sleeves (you will see more pictures further on).  Thus, the sleeve did not have to measure the whole length of my arm (just approximately before the deltoid muscle).  I was so excited to see how the sleeve would look attached to the body rectangle and panels!

First I flipped the sleeve inside-out.

Next, I began whip stitching the edges shut.

The seaming is complete!

This is what the right side facing outwards looks like!

It was time to assemble my sweater!

I then flipped the body rectangle and front panels inside out and used safety pins to help close the edges, leaving the arm hole open.

I whip stitched the edges together, removing the safety pins as I went along.  For reference, I sewed 19.5″/50 cm of the side and had an arm hole of about 10″/25 cm long.

I measured the opening of the sleeve to the arm hole to make sure I left the appropriate size.  I also made sure the slanted edge of the sleeve was facing downwards when I attached it to the arm hole!

Making sure the sleeve was also inside-out, I then whip stitched the sleeve to the arm hole!

One sleeve is attached!  You’ll notice that the body rectangle and front panels curve downwards past the shoulders in this sweater design.  This helps create beautiful drape and a very soft look. 

I repeated the same process on the other side so that both sleeves were attached!  

The bottom and collar were looking a little rough, so I needed to add some edging!

I flipped my sweater upside down and opened it up so that the wrong side was facing me.  I joined my yarn at the top right corner of one of the front panels as indicated below and began working in joined rounds across the bottom of the sweater and around the collar.

I moved down a whole hook size and used my 3.5 mm hook to get tighter and denser stitches.  I began working half double crochets along the bottom.

After working half double crochets along the whole bottom, it was time to work around the collar.

I decided to work my half double crochets around the post stitches of the collar sides as it seemed like a sturdier base compared to the lower chain 2/hdc edge.

This is where I inserted my hook when working my hdc’s.

The transition seemed more seamless as I worked these stitches along the posts.

You can compare this to the picture below when I first worked the hdc’s along the Chain 2/hdc edge.  It seemed to be a more flimsy attachment and there was a more noticeable decrease in height/depth.  In the end it did not matter too much though since I made the collar very large, so it actually splayed open and this edge was not visible.  It is up to you where you want to attach your hdc’s around the collar!

If you work your hdc’s around the posts of the stitch, this raised edge of stitches will be created on the inside of the sweater.  Once again, it’s not a big deal, but I ended up sewing this edge down as you’ll see later on.

After working hdc’s around one side of the collar, I went across the top of the collar.

I worked my hdc’s as normal.

Remember that for this part, you will be working in joined rounds, across the bottom of the sweater and around the collar.  For the edging, I alternated Fphdc’s and Bphdc’s to create a neat seed stitch/crosshatched effect.  I wanted to use the same stitches but in a different way to create a unique look for the edging.

After completing five rounds, I was happy with the width of the bottom edging which measured about 1.25″/3 cm.

Thus, I stopped at the end of Round 5 and instead of continuing on in a round, I turned my work and began working the other way in turned rows.  

The beginning of the row is indicated by the circle below and the arrows show you which direction you will be working!

I then kept building upon the collar, working in turned rows and alternating Fphdc’s and Bphdc’s.  The two circles below show you the beginning and end of each turned row as you keep going back and forth.

It was fun building up the width of this collar!

Here is a close-up of the gorgeous texture created by these stitches!  It is a very simple pattern to work through since if your next stitch is a raised stitch, work a Bphdc around it.  If your next stitch is pushed back, work a Fphdc around it.  This creates that staggered effect!

I ended up going until Row 27 and ended up using most of my 6th skein of Shawl in a Ball!  My collar edging was 7″/18 cm wide.  The wide collar actually helps to push the front panels down towards the sleeves when you wear it.

I love how the collar can be folded so that it drapes and hangs outwards.  The right and wrong side of the collar look exactly the same, so it looks gorgeous no matter which side is showing!

Once again, here is that raised inner edge that was created when I crocheted the hdc’s to the posts of the collar.  It was bugging me, so I sewed this edge flat.

I did this by simply sewing the raised edge to the front and back loops found on the inside of the sweater.

Here is a close-up showing where I attached this raised edge.

Doesn’t that look much better?

As a finishing touch, I sewed two ultraleather garment tags to my sweater (I got mine from BrickBubble)!  I sewed the first square tag to the inner top part of my sweater- it’s so neat having my own label and “brand”!

I sewed the second foldover tag to the bottom edging of my sweater so that it would be visible when I wore it!  My sweater was now complete!

***************************************

Here is the free pattern for our second original sweater, “The Cascade Cardigan”!  

***You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE and on Craftsy HERE!  This beautifully formatted PDF includes the stitch tutorial, step-by-step pictures and pattern, and is a total of 11 pages including the cover page!

Note:

The Chain 2 at the beginning of each row counts as a stitch.

Do not worry if your pieces seem to be curling as it will be not be noticeable once you seam the pieces together.

Whenever it says to seam two pieces together, always flip them inside out and whip stitch them together to get a cleaner look.

When joining a new skein of yarn, try to match the colours.  For example, if you ended off with a white/light grey section, try to find a new skein that begins with a white/light grey section to help continue the seamless colour change! 

For sizing suggestions, see end of pattern.

Special stitches & Abbreviations:

Front post half double crochet (Fphdc): YO, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from front to back of stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 3 loops. 

Back post half double crochets (Bphdc): YO, insert hook in front of post of stitch (insert hook from back to front of stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 3 loops.

Front post half double crochet increase (Fphdc Inc): Work two Fphdc’s around post of next stitch.

Back post half double crochet increase (Bphdc Inc): Work two Bphdc’s around post of next stitch.

Stitch = st

Stitches = sts

Half double crochet = hdc

Materials:

4.5 mm Clover Amour hook and 3.5 mm hook (for the edging and ribbing)

DK or Light Worsted yarn, level 3 (I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Shawl in a Ball in “Feng Shui Grey”, 6 skeins- total yardage: 3108 yards).  Note that this yarn is classified as a level 4 yarn on the label, but appears to be level 3.

Yarn needle

Garment tags (optional)

Gauge:  10 stitches and 7 rows in alternating front post and back post half double crochets = 2.5 inches (6.35 cm)

BODY RECTANGLE:

Using 4.5 mm hook,

Row 1: Foundation half double crochet 102. (102 sts)

R2: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (102 sts)

R3: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (102 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until Row 95.

After Row 95, split off into 2 front panels.

Body panel dimensions: 24″/61 cm wide, 30.5″/77 cm long.

PANEL 1:

R1: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (40 sts)

R2: Ch 2, turn. Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (40 sts)

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Row 95.  Fasten off.

PANEL 2:

Flip piece, join working yarn on far right side.  

R1: Ch 2 in Chain 2 from previous row. Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (40 sts)

R2: Ch 2, turn. Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (40 sts)

R3: Ch 2, turn. Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (40 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until Row 95.

SLEEVES (make 2)

Using 4.5 mm hook, 

First we will crochet the ribbing of the sleeve, working from the bottom up:

R1: Foundation half double crochet 31. (31 sts)

R2: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Fphdc, Bphdc* till end.  Hdc in last st. (31 sts) [Note your 2nd last stitch will be a Fphdc and your last stitch will be a Hdc]

R3: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Bphdc, Fphdc* till end.  Hdc in last st. (31 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until Row 15.  

[Note that whether you do a Fpdc or a Bphdc may vary depending on your numbers if you adapt the pattern.  If your next stitch is a raised stitch, work a Fphdc.  If your next stitch is a pushed-back stitch, do a Bphdc to continue the ribbing.  For example, if you do an even number of foundation hdc’s in R1, you will be doing *Fphdc, Bphdc* for Row 3!]

The ribbing is complete. We will now begin the increases to shape the sleeves. 

R16: Ch 2, *Fpdc 3, Inc*, repeat 7 times.  Fphdc 1.  Hdc in last st. (38 sts)

R17: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (38 sts)

R18: Chain 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Fphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Fphdc 32.  *Fphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (42 sts)

R19: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (42 sts)

R20: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Fphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Fphdc 36.  *Fphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (46 sts)

R21: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (46 sts)

R22:  Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (46 sts)

R23: Repeat R21.

R24: Repeat R22.

R25: Repeat R21.

R26: Repeat R22.

R27: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Bphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Bphdc 40.  *Bphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (50 sts)

R28: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (50 sts)

R29: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (50 sts)

R30: Repeat R28.

R31: Repeat R29.

R32: Repeat R28.

R33: Repeat R29.

R34: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Fphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Fphdc 44.  *Fphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (54 sts)

R35: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (54 sts)

R36: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (54 sts)

R37: Repeat R35.

R38: Repeat R36.

R39: Repeat R35.

R40: Repeat R36.

R41: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Bphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Bphdc 48.  *Bphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (58 sts)

R42: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (58 sts)

R43: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (58 sts)

R44: Repeat R42.

R45: Repeat R43.

R46: Repeat R42.

R47: Repeat R43.

R48: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Fphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Fphdc 52.  *Fphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (62 sts)

R49: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Bphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (62 sts)

R50: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (62 sts)

R51: Repeat R49.

R52: Repeat R50.

R53: Repeat R49.

R54: Repeat R50.

R55: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Bphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Bphdc 56.  *Bphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (66 sts)

R56: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (66 sts)

R57: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Bphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Bphdc 60.  *Bphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (70 sts)

R58: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (70 sts)

R59: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Bphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Bphdc 64.  *Bphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (74 sts)

R60: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (74 sts)

R61: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Bphdc Inc*, repeat 2 times.  Bphdc 68.  *Bphdc Inc*, rep 2 times.  Hdc in last st. (78 sts)

R62: Ch 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, Fphdc across.  Hdc in last st. (78 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.

Sleeve dimensions: 

Sleeve hole circumference at wrist (ribbed band): 8.5″/22 cm

Sleeve hole circumference at widest part (where attaches to panels): 10″/25 cm

Sleeve length: 19.5″/49.5 cm 

Assembly:

Flip sleeve inside out and sew sides together.

Flip body and panels of cardigan inside out and sew sides together (approximately 19.5″/50 cm), leaving arm hole.

With slanted edge of sleeve facing downwards, sew sleeve to arm hole (all inside out).

COLLAR & BOTTOM EDGING

With 3.5 mm hook,

Position piece upside-down with inside (wrong side) facing you.  Join working yarn to right corner of panel.  We will begin working in joined rounds.  The front and back post half double crochets should be staggered every round to create a crosshatched, criss-cross pattern (not ribbing like the sleeve).

Round 1: Chain 2.  Hdc around bottom and collar of piece.  Sl st to first chain 2.

[Note: When I crocheted Round 1, I worked my half double crochets along the post stitches of the collar sides (rather than the Chain 2 edges) so that they had a sturdier base.  After I completed my sweater, I was left with an inner raised edge, so I sewed this raised edge down.]

Round 2: Chain 2.  *Fphdc, Bphdc* around.  Sl st to first chain 2.

Round 3: Chain 2, *Bphdc, Fphdc* around.  Sl st to first chain 2.

Round 4: Rep Round 2.

Round 5: Rep Round 3.

We will now begin working in turned rows and working ONLY around the collar (no longer on the bottom of the sweater).  Note that whether you work a Fphdc or a Bphdc will vary depending on your numbers.  Whenever you see a raised stitch, work a Bphdc, and whenever you see a pushed-back stitch, work a Fphdc since we are staggering them!

Row 6: Chain 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Fphdc, Bphdc* across.  Hdc in last st.

Row 7: Chain 2, turn.  Starting from 4th st from hook, *Bphdc, Fphdc* across.  Hdc in last st.

Repeat Rows 6 and 7 to desired length.  More rows will create more drape in the front.  I went until Row 27.

Fasten off and weave in end.  If needed, sew down inner raised edge created by Round 1 of collar edging.

My bottom edging measured 1.25″ wide and my collar edging measured 7″ wide.

Optional: Sew square garment tag on inner top of sweater and fold-over garment tag on bottom edging.

Final measurements:

Height of Sweater: 30.5″/77 cm

Width of Sweater: 24.5″/62 cm across body

Guidelines for Size Adaptations:

I sized this cardigan for myself!  For reference, I am 5′6.  This cardigan is meant to be loose and oversized with beautiful drape so that it is not too tight.  With that being said, you can modify the general pattern to make a larger or smaller cardigan to fit your needs.  If you have a cardigan in your wardrobe that you love, you can try and size this cardigan to match it!

To make your cardigan wider, increase your initial foundation chain of half double crochets (more than 102).  Measure your width a little bit past shoulder to shoulder.  The width of the collar will naturally push down the front panels and body rectangle to become part of the sleeve.

To make your cape longer, increase the number of rows in the body rectangle (more than 95) and panels (more than 95).  Make sure that the total number of rows of the body rectangle matches the total number of rows of the front panels.

To increase the size of the sleeves, increase your initial foundation chain of half double crochets (more than 31).

For Row 16 of the sleeves, do a general increase (I increased by 7- you could also increase by the same number or more).

From then on, all increases are worked along the edges of the sleeve: two on one side and two on the other.  Follow the same pattern- the only difference will be the Fphdc and Bphdc numbers in the middle (e.g. the Fphdc 32 of R18- if increasing, you will have a higher number).

Each increase row adds 4 stitches.

Between Rows 20-54, increase after every 6 rows.

Row 55-62 increases more steeply as the increase rounds are every other row.  If you want to make your sleeves longer, you can continue on with this pattern.

When determining the length of your sleeve, keep in mind that part of the body rectangle and front panels will curve downwards past your shoulders to become the sleeves.  Thus, the length of the sleeve does not need to be your full arm length (measure from wrist to just before deltoid muscle).

Edging of bottom and collar is worked the same.

Keep measuring and trying on piece as you work along.

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I periodically tried on my sweater throughout the process (e.g. when I was done the first sleeve, working the edging etc) and was incredibly excited to try it on at the very end with the thick and luxurious collar!  I am overjoyed with how it turned out!

It has such incredible drape and a flowy, romantic feel to it.  It hangs off the body gorgeously and is so flattering!  

I am in love with the beautiful blend of colours as it has an ombre effect!  I am usually not a huge fan of variegated yarn, but this colourway is so elegant and contemporary.  You can’t go wrong with black, grey, and white!  The fuzziness and halo around the yarn helps to blur the stitches, giving it such a soft and seamless look.

Sometimes it can be hard naming pieces, and I’m so glad that I could ask YOU my readers to help give suggestions!  A couple of you included the word “cascade” which I love since it is a small waterfall.  I wanted to highlight the gorgeous drape of the piece, and the word “cascade” evokes a sense of peace and elegance for me.  Thus, I decided to name my sweater “The Cascade Cardigan”- I also love the alliteration!

The ultraleather garment tag adds such a beautiful finishing touch to this handmade piece!

This is my new favourite sweater and the crochet design that I’m most proud of aside from my amigurumi.  It is the perfect cardigan to cozy up in and is such a beautiful piece in my wardrobe!  Isn’t it amazing how we can crochet our own clothing?

I am delighted I learned how to shape sleeves for sweaters!  The long sleeves really make it perfect for any weather and are just so cozy!

Self-striping yarn is so neat!  It really was a lot of fun working with it since you never knew what section of colour was coming next!

Here is the back!  I love the length of the sweater and the oversized look of it!

In case you’re curious, I am wearing: Joan of Arctic Mid Wedges in “Oxford Tan” by Sorel, Preston Leather Backpack by Fossil, Floppy Black Hat by Simons, Camper Socks by Garage Clothing.

Ryan thought it would be fun to do a jumping shot!  This was easier said than done since I was wearing wedge heels.  I also had to hold onto my hat as it flew off a couple times!  I love this dynamic shot!  Haha don’t I look like the White Rabbit from Alice in Wonderland who’s late for a very important date?  We also filmed some videos of me wearing the Cascade Cardigan so you can really see how it moves and flows- check it out on Instagram HERE!

This Cascade Cardigan photoshoot was very memorable for Ryan and I as we actually took these photos on our 6th wedding anniversary!  We took advantage of the fact that Ryan’s parents were taking care of the girls for the evening, so we snapped some photos before heading to our anniversary dinner!  We tried out a new restaurant and were reminiscing over our 6 wonderful years of marriage and how surreal it is that we have two daughters now!

I am delighted to share that Lion Brand Yarn loved my cardigan so much that they made a fabulous Crochet Kit for it!  It is currently on sale for 20% off until September 24th, and you get a copy of this pattern and 6 balls of Shawl in a Ball.  Keep in mind that this project also requires a 4.5 mm hook (Lion Brand does not have this size available, which is why a 5 mm is listed), a 3.5 mm hook, and a yarn needle.  I am honoured to have one of my designs as a part of a kit on their website, ready for purchase- you can check it out HERE!  Kits are so convenient!

I hope you enjoyed seeing the design process behind my “Cascade Cardigan”! People tend to like knitted garments better for their drape and look, but I’m delighted that I could provide this crochet alternative that has a knitted look!  I am so excited to see your Cascade Cardigans as it is such a perfect piece to work on as fall and winter approach!  Don’t forget to visit my Etsy store HERE and my Craftsy store HERE for a concise PDF of this detailed tutorial and pattern!  I would LOVE to see your in-progress and final pictures, so feel free to share them with me on my blog and social media here: Facebook page, Twitter (@AllAboutAmi) or Instagram (@AllAboutAmi).  You can also use the hashtags #cascadecardigan and #allaboutami on social media to show everyone your work too!  Have fun making your own clothes and cuddling up with your Cascade Cardigans, everyone!  

{This post is sponsored by Lion Brand Yarn!  I’ve loved working with their yarn throughout the years and I’m thrilled that I get to collaborate with them every month!}

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie Lau of All About Ami.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it.

Look at this AMAZING yarn!  It is a custom dye and spin by the talented Allison Barnes, a local Indie dyer from my hometown of Edmonton, Alberta, Canada!  As soon as I saw Allison’s gorgeous thick and thin merino wool, I knew I wanted to get my hands on some!  I asked if she could create a blush pink, grey, and white blend as this is my favourite colour combination! 

I could hardly contain my excitement when I saw what Allison had made for me!  The colours are so soft and pretty, and the wool itself is also incredibly soft.  The variation in thickness is very unique and unlike any I’ve worked with before.  The yarn itself is such a beautiful work of art that I just like to look at it and hold every so often!  Haha, but I’m also excited to begin working with it and turn it into a beautiful project!  

Check out Allison’s Etsy store HERE and see more pictures of her custom spun yarn in this Facebook album HERE!  Allison is also on Instagram HERE.  It’s such an amazing feeling knowing that this wool was spun and dyed specifically for me!  Don’t hesitate to contact her if you have a certain colour or colour combination in mind for a special project!  This yarn is SO me and might be my favourite yarn to date!  I was once asked in an interview what yarn I would be if I were a yarn...I think it’s safe to say that I would be this yarn!

Allison will also be a vendor at the upcoming Etsy Made in Canada market on September 24th!  Etsy will be hosting a day of pop-up markets across the country in many different cities- check out the list HERE!  You can also check out the Made in Canada Etsy Editors’ Pick page HERE as they highlight some wonderful Canadian talent (like my friend Laura Uy’s Pabu the Spirit Bear)!  It’ll be such an amazing day with so many Canadian artists showcasing their work!

Here’s a sneak peek of my latest garment design that I’ve been working so hard on!  Isn’t it gorgeous?  I am incredibly proud of it and cannot wait to share the behind-the-scenes making of it as well as the free pattern!

I would love your help in naming this piece!  If I end up going with your suggestion, I will send you a free condensed PDF of the pattern that I usually sell in my Etsy and Craftsy shops! 

For the past two years, I’ve worked on and blogged about sweaters in September to anticipate the chillier weather and need to layer!  Two years ago, I made my “Easy Chunky Crochet Sweater” (left), a very simple project perfect for beginners.  Last year, I designed my very first garment called “The Granite Cape” (right), and I’m so happy that many of you have made your own or are in the progress of making it.  You can purchase an inexpensive PDF of the Granite Cape in my Etsy store HERE and Craftsy store HERE!

I love being able to gift handmade crocheted items, particularly to babies!  Their cute little items ranging from baby booties to hats can be something that their parents treasure forever, and of course they make great photo shoot items for newborns!   We recently met a new baby boy, and I wanted to crochet him a little hat with yarn that I already had on hand.  I found this adorable free pattern on Ravelry HERE for “Little Lindy’s Aviator Hat”!  

I was so excited when I first got my hands on Lion Brand Yarn’s “24/7 Cotton”!  It has a beautiful sheen and luster to it as it is 100% mercerized cotton.  It is categorized as a level 4 (medium) yarn, but I personally think it is closer to a level 3 (DK or lightweight) yarn.  24/7 Cotton comes in a wide array of colours, and I think they would be a great choice for amigurumi as it gives lovely stitch definition and does not split easily.  This time round, I decided to use this yarn for another project I had in mind!

Ever since crocheting my round Zipper Pouch HERE, I had always wanted to design my own rectangular one.  Thus, I began by doing a series of chain stitches with this stunning Goldenrod colour!

I wanted to work in a round, so my beginning chains were actually a foundation chain!  First I worked single crochets in the back loops, turned my work, and then worked single crochets in the front loops.  Then I slip stitched to the first stitch of the round since I wanted to work in joined rounds.

I was excited to use a new stitch that I had always wanted to learn: the Star Stitch or Marguerite Stitch!  I myself learned how to do the Star Stitch through Moogly’s video tutorial HERE and I highly recommend you check out this video to see all the following steps in action.  I also found the Crochet Crowd’s video HERE helpful as well!  It is such a gorgeous stitch, as you’ll soon see.  We will now begin the tutorial on how to crochet the star stitch!  To begin the second round, chain 3.

Insert your crochet hook into the second chain from the hook, yarn over, and pull up a loop.  There are now two loops on my hook.

Repeat the same process in the next three stitches (insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop).There are now five loops on my hook.

Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop.  I now have six loops on my hook.  Once you have six loops on your hook, you are almost done one complete star stitch!  Yarn over, and then pull through ALL six loops, which gives that nice clustered effect.  It’s important to not work too tightly when doing the star stitches, otherwise it will be very difficult for you to pull through all six loops!

The star stitch is not quite complete yet!  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  This helps “seal” or finish off the star stitch.  This is an important step not to forget.

This last step creates an “eye” in the star stitch as indicated by the arrow below.  To begin the next star stitch, insert your hook into this “eye”, yarn over, and pull up a loop.  You now have two loops on your hook.

This is where it can get a bit tricky.  You need to insert your hook into both loops of the last spike of the previous star stitch (the side of that last spike).  You then yarn over and pull up a loop.  You now have three loops on your hook.

Next, you insert your hook into the stitch where that last spike of that previous star stitch came out of.  Yarn over, pull up a loop.  You now have 4 loops on your hook.

You then repeat the same process over the next two stitches (insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop).  As you can see, each new star stitch only takes up two new stitches.  You now have six loops on your hook, the magic number!

Once again, you yarn over, and pull through all six loops.

We can’t forget that last step: yarn over and pull up a loop to seal that star stitch.

You repeat this same process across the whole round.

Note that for this first round of star stitches, the last star stitch will be worked over the last stitch of the previous round (where the stitch marker is located) and the slip stitch of the previous round (the slip stitch that closed up the round).

It’s almost time to close up this first round of star stitches!

To do so, you slip stitch to the chain gap formed from those initial chains.

The first round of star stitches is complete!

To begin the second round of star stitches, you chain 3 once again and beginning from the second chain from the hook, repeat the same process as above.  The arrow on the left shows the first stitch where you insert your hook and the arrow on the right shows the last stitch where you insert your hook.  Note that the last stitch is in the “eye” of the star stitch underneath.

Remember that each star stitch takes up two new stitches of the round as indicated by the two arrows below: one will be a larger stitch (formed from the spike of the star stitch) and one will be a smaller stitch (formed from the “eye” of the star stitch underneath).  As you go around building star stitches, be sure to always end on the “eye” of the star stitch underneath (as indicated by the arrow on the left), otherwise your numbers will be thrown off!

Two rounds of star stitches are complete!

Once again, to close up the round, you slip stitch to that chain gap.

I actually began working on this project the day before we left on a family vacation to Nova Scotia.  I wanted to do the first steps at home so that I could take step-by-step pictures!  The rest of the crocheting was done in the car when we were driving around Nova Scotia!  Once you get the hang of this stitch and form a routine, it becomes very simple, and you can work on it without too much concentration.  I can’t work on projects that require too much counting or focus in the car as I get dizzy!

After 11 rounds of star stitches, I did a round of slip stitches for a beautiful edging!

Since we are working in joined rounds, a slanted seam is formed at the back.  I actually think it gives a really interesting effect!  If you are not sewing a lining for your pouch, I would recommend whip stitching this seam shut to close up the gaps and ensure that nothing can fall out.  If you really do not like the seam, you could try working this pouch in turned rows instead of rounds, thus eliminating the seam.  See Moogly’s video HERE on working the star stitch in rows- at the end, you would just whip stitch the sides together to form your pouch!

The other side of the pouch has a really neat look and texture to it too!

Now it is time to sew the fabric lining for this pouch!

We picked up this simple and modern fabric and cut out a large rectangle based on the size of our pouch.  Instead of cutting two separate pieces and sewing them together, we decided to do one large rectangle that could fold in half (fold would be at bottom of pouch).  We then drew a 1 cm seam allowance within the big rectangle (seam allowance = smaller rectangle in this case) since this fabric lining would be fitting within the pouch and we didn’t want there to be too much slack.  We folded and ironed the top and bottom edges of the rectangle (as indicated by the arrows) and used a sewing machine to hem these edges.

The sewing machine gives such clean lines...definitely much better than my hand sewing!

It was now time to add the zipper!  We pinned the wrong side of the zipper to the wrong side of the fabric. 

I hand sewed one side of the fabric to one side of the zipper.

Then I unzipped the zipper and sewed the other side of the fabric to the other side of the zipper.

The inside of the pouch is indicated by the arrow below!

I then used a sewing machine to sew the side edges together.

Since my zipper was too long for this pouch, I sewed a stop as indicated by the arrow below.  Ryan added some hot glue to make it stronger.

We thought a label would be a nice touch to this pouch, so I sewed my ultraleather foldover tag from BrickBubble onto my pouch!

It was then time to insert the fabric lining into my crocheted pouch!

I pinned it in place and then sewed the zipper to the crochet pouch.  I attached the zipper towards the top of the last round of star stitches and left the last round of slip stitches untouched for a clean look. For further information on adding liners to crocheted pieces, check out these helpful tutorials HERE and HERE!  This video HERE also shows an alternative way to add a zipper and lining.

I was sooo happy when I finally completed my first star stitch pouch!

The inner fabric lining adds such a s such a polished look!  More pics to follow!

In addition to designing a flat rectangular pouch, I also wanted to design a pouch with a flat base that could stand up, similar to a makeup bag!  I used this gorgeous colour “Jade” and made a rectangular base by crocheting 8 rows of single crochets.  To begin working in a round, I then smoothed over this rectangle by starting at the red dot (where the working yarn is), and did the following stitches: Sc 8, Sc 3 in the corner, Sc 23, Sc 3 in the corner, Sc 8, Sc 3 in the corner, Sc 23, Sc 3 in the corner.  I was left with 74 stitches.

I then worked some rounds of single crochets!  You may notice the change in background of these step-by-step photos compared to our normal hardwood floor...it’s actually the seat of our rental car in Nova Scotia!

After five rounds of single crochets, I then began working star stitches as per the instructions above!

I finished the crochet portion of this Star Stitch Pouch in Halifax!  I managed to sneak in some crochet time while we were playing on a rock beach and enjoying the breath-taking view.  I love how this portable project came with me wherever I went in my backpack!

I did 9 rounds of star stitches and one round of slip stitching to complete this pouch!

Once again, the same diagonal seam was formed!

Instead of using a foldover tag, this time I decided to use one of my square tags and sew it to the top middle of this pouch!

Figuring out the fabric lining of this pouch was trickier because of its flat base.  We cut out a rectangle and an oval based on the size of our crocheted pouch and drew a 1 cm seam allowance within these shapes.  I used my sewing machine once again to hem only the top edge of the rectangle (the bottom edge gets sewn to the oval).

Then, I folded the rectangle around the oval so that the oval was at the bottom/base of the lining.  I pinned both pieces together and carefully sewed the bottom of the rectangle to the oval and sewed up the sides of the rectangle.

I added the zipper the same way I did the other pouch by placing the wrong sides facing each other.  I sewed a stop and Ryan added some hot glue to secure it once again.

I then inserted my fabric lining with zipper into my crochet pouch and pinned it into place.  I then sewed my zipper to my pouch as I did above.

When I was finally finished all the sewing, I was over the moon!  This is my Star Stitch Pouch with a round base when it is laid flat!

And this is what it looks like when it is standing up!  Isn’t it adorable?

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Here are the free patterns for my “Star Stitch Pouches”:

***You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE and on Craftsy HERE!  This beautifully formatted PDF includes the step-by-step pictures, the full star stitch tutorial, and the patterns for BOTH pouches!  It is a total of 10 pages including the cover page!

Materials:

Lightweight or medium yarn, level 3 or 4 (I used Lion Brand yarn’s 24/7 Cotton in “Goldenrod” and “Jade”).  Pouch #1 (flat) requires 46 g of yarn and Pouch #2 (round bottom) requires 57 g of yarn.

4 mm Clover Amour crochet hook

Fabric lining + zipper: fabric, zipper, thread, needle, glue gun (for stop)

Ultraleather tags (optional): I got mine from Brickbubble

Star Stitch Pouch #1 (flat)

Dimensions: 6.7″/17 cm x 4.5″/11.5 cm

Chain 36 (this is the foundation chain- see tutorial on how to crochet around a foundation chain HERE).

Round 1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 35 in back loops of foundation chain.  Turn and Sc 35 in front loops of the foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  Sl st to first sc to close round.  (70 sts)

Round 2: Chain 3.  Insert hook in second ch from hook and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in next ch from hook and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in same st where Chain 3 was made and pull up a loop.  *Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop*, rep 2 times (you should have 6 loops on your hook).  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (i.e Chain 1) to close up first star stitch forming the “eye” of the star.  

Subsequent star stitches in Round 2: Insert hook in “eye” you just made and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in both loops of the last spike of the previous star stitch (the side of that last spike) and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in same st where last spike of previous star stitch came out of and pull up a loop.  *Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop*, rep 2 times (you should now have 6 loops on your hook).  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (i.e. Chain 1) to close up the star stitch forming the “eye” of the star.

Continue working star stitches around till the end.  Note that the last star stitch of Round 2 will be worked in the last stitch of the previous round and the slip stitch that closed off the round of Round 1.  Slip stitch to chain 1 gap to close off the round. [35 star stitches]

Round 3: Chain 3.  Insert hook in second ch from hook and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in next ch from hook and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in same st where Chain 3 was made and pull up a loop.  *Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop*, rep 2 times (you should have 6 loops on your hook).  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (i.e Chain 1) to close up first star stitch forming the “eye” of the star.  

Subsequent star stitches in round: Insert hook in “eye” you just made and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in both loops of the last spike of the previous star stitch (the side of that last spike) and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in same st where last spike of previous star stitch came out of and pull up a loop.  *Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop*, rep 2 times (you should now have 6 loops on your hook).  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (i.e. Chain 1) to close up the star stitch forming the “eye” of the star.  Note that the last stitch you insert your hook into for each star stitch will always be the “eye” of the star stitch underneath.  

Continue working star stitches around till the end.  Slip stitch to chain 1 gap to close off the round. [35 star stitches]

R4-11: Repeat Round 3.

Round 12: Slip stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in end.

Add fabric lining:

- Cut rectangle out of fabric based on size of pouch (rectangle folds in half to form lining instead of two separate pieces).  Measure 1 cm seam allowance within rectangle.  Fold and iron top and bottom edges of rectangle.  Hem top and bottom edges.

- Pin wrong side of zipper to wrong side of fabric.  Sew each side of fabric to side of zipper.

- Sew sides of fabric rectangle together.

- Sew stop on zipper if needed and add hot glue.

- Add foldover tag.

- Insert fabric lining into crocheted pouch.  Pin in place and sew zipper to crochet pouch.  Attach zipper towards top of last round of star stitches and leave last round of slip stitches untouched for a clean look.  For further information, check out these helpful tutorials HERE and HERE!  This video HERE also shows an alternative way to add a zipper and lining.

Star Stitch Pouch #2 (round bottom)

Dimensions: 7″/18 cm x  4.5″/11.5 cm

We still start by crocheting in turned rows to form the flat base of the pouch.

Row 1: Foundation single crochet 25 or to desired length. (25 sc) {See how to do foundation single crochets HERE!}

Row 2: Chain 1. Turn. Sc in 2nd st from hook and in each st across. (25 sc).

R3-8: Repeat Row 2.

We will now begin working in joined rounds to smooth over the rectangle created and to build up the height/body of the pouch.

Round 1:  Sc 8, Sc 3 in the corner, Sc 23, Sc 3 in the corner, Sc 8, Sc 3 in the corner, Sc 23, Sc 3 in the corner.  Sl st to first sc to close. (74 sc)

Round 2-5: Chain 1, work first sc in same st where Chain 1 was worked.  Sc in each stitch around.  Sl st to first sc to close. (74 sc)

We will now begin working our star stitch rounds!

Round 6: Chain 3.  Insert hook in second ch from hook and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in next ch from hook and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in same st where Chain 3 was made and pull up a loop.  *Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop*, rep 2 times (you should have 6 loops on your hook).  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (i.e Chain 1) to close up first star stitch forming the “eye” of the star.  

Subsequent star stitches in Round 6: Insert hook in “eye” you just made and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in both loops of the last spike of the previous star stitch (the side of that last spike) and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in same st where last spike of previous star stitch came out of and pull up a loop.  *Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop*, rep 2 times (you should now have 6 loops on your hook).  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (i.e. Chain 1) to close up the star stitch forming the “eye” of the star.

Continue working star stitches around till the end.  Note that the last star stitch of Round 6 will be worked in the last stitch of the previous round and the slip stitch that closed off the round of Round 5.  Slip stitch to chain 1 gap to close off the round. [37 star stitches]

Round 7: Chain 3.  Insert hook in second ch from hook and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in next ch from hook and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in same st where Chain 3 was made and pull up a loop.  *Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop*, rep 2 times (you should have 6 loops on your hook).  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (i.e Chain 1) to close up first star stitch forming the “eye” of the star.  

Subsequent star stitches in round: Insert hook in “eye” you just made and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in both loops of the last spike of the previous star stitch (the side of that last spike) and pull up a loop.  Insert hook in same st where last spike of previous star stitch came out of and pull up a loop.  *Insert hook in next st and pull up a loop*, rep 2 times (you should now have 6 loops on your hook).  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Yarn over and pull up a loop (i.e. Chain 1) to close up the star stitch forming the “eye” of the star.  Note that the last stitch you insert your hook into for each star stitch will always be the “eye” of the star stitch underneath.  

Continue working star stitches around till the end.  Slip stitch to chain 1 gap to close off the round. [37 star stitches]

R8-14: Repeat Round 7.

Round 15: Slip stitch around.  Fasten off and weave in end.

Add fabric lining:

- Cut rectangle and oval out of fabric based on size of crocheted pouch and measure 1 cm seam allowance.  Hem top edge of rectangle.

- Fold rectangle around oval so that oval is bottom/base of lining.  Pin both pieces together and carefully sew bottom of rectangle to oval.  Sew up sides of rectangle.

- Add zipper to fabric as above. 

- Sew tag onto top middle of bag..

- Insert fabric lining with zipper into crochet pouch and pin into place.  Sew zipper to pouch as above.

Here is a diagram that Ryan created to show how we constructed the fabric linings:

Notes: 

- Increase the size of Pouch #1 by increasing the number of chains in your foundation chain- you can increase by any number (i.e. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc).  Each star stitch requires two stitches, but you can increase by any number because this number will end up being doubled when crocheting around the foundation chain (i.e. an increase of 1 chain will result in 2 more stitches in the pouch, an increase of 3 chains will result in 6 more stitches in the pouch, etc).

- Increase the size of pouch #2 by increasing your number of foundation single crochets or the number of rows.

- Do not crochet too tightly when working star stitches otherwise it will be hard to pull through all six loops.

- If not adding a fabric lining, whip stitch the diagonal seam together to reduce the gaps/spaces.

- I used the backstitch when sewing all the components together (i.e. fabric, zipper, crochet pouch).

- If you do not like the seam, you can work the star stitch in turned rows to crochet a rectangular piece.  At the end, you can whip stitch the sides together to form your pouch.

- Alternatives to zipper closure include button or velcro closure.  You could also add a zipper without doing the fabric lining (see HERE).  If you do not have ultraleather labels, you could use ribbon or fabric for a lovely accent on the outside of the pouch! 

- You can make many different sized cases by adjusting your numbers, such as a sunglasses case, laptop case, coin purse, pencil case, etc.  This stitch would be lovely for a little girl’s purse with straps too!

- If you want the flat pouch to comfortably hold pencils and hooks, I would recommend increasing your foundation chain by 3-5 stitches.

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These Star Stitch Pouches have such gorgeous texture!

The backs look really neat too with their diagonal seams!  I think they add a lot of character.

It was fun choosing the zipper colours, and I love how we went with complementary ones!  They really add a fun pop of colour!

I adore the fabric we chose for the inner lining.  The arrows are so clean and modern!

This little pouch is a great size for my purse and can hold cards...

...and my passport!  Crochet hooks and pens do fit, but it’s a snug fit.  I would definitely make it a bit bigger if you want to make it a pencil case for back to school!

My second star stitch pouch with a round bottom can hold more!

I think it would make such a cute make-up bag!  These pouches work up so quickly (minus the handsewing for me :P) and would make beautiful and unique Christmas gifts!  You can never start planning too early!  They require less than one skein of yarn each, and you can even make TWO flat pouches with just one skein!

Star stitches are stunning, aren’t they?  I love being able to personalize my pouches with my beautiful BrickBubble ultraleather labels too!  These washable labels come in three colours: Camel, Medium Brown, and Cement.  I got a variety of all the colours as these neutrals will match with all my projects!

I adore being able to carry handmade items with me all the time.  These pouches can help you carry your essentials and make such a beautiful statement when you pull them out!  You can see a short video of me showing these pouches in action with all the items they can carry HERE!  I am so happy that I learned how to do this fun stitch and that I found the perfect yarn to showcase them!  24/7 Cotton is currently the featured yarn of August, so you can get it for 20% off on the Lion Brand site HERE!  I hope you have fun making your own star stitch pouches and that you’ll put them to great use!  These projects are quick to whip up and very portable- I’ll always remember these Star Stitch Pouches as my Halifax/Maritimes project!  Thanks for reading through this very long post!  Enjoy the rest of your summer, everyone!

{This post is sponsored by Lion Brand Yarn!  I’ve loved working with their yarn throughout the years and I’m thrilled that I get to collaborate with them every month!}

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie Lau of All About Ami.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it.

Here’s a sneak peek of my latest project using Lion Brand Yarn’s beautiful 24/7 Cotton Yarn (currently 20% off on their site HERE)!  You’ll need just one skein!  Who recognizes this stitch?

Last month I blogged about my “Extreme Knitted Blanket”!  It was so much fun working with 3 kg of gorgeous merino wool and 50 mm knitting needles from Mama Knows Luxury.  I had always wanted to try my hand at extreme knitting, and I had so much fun throughout the process!  I am so proud of my incredibly soft and luxurious blanket!

I knew I DEFINITELY wanted to try extreme crocheting with the same gorgeous merino wool!  You may remember that I had 1 kg (~2 lbs) of this pretty “Salmon” to play with (check out my Extreme Knitting and Crocheting Haul HERE) ...

...as well as the hugest crochet hook I’ve ever seen: this 40 mm crochet hook handmade in Beaumont, Alberta by MD Handfield Designs Inc, exclusively for Sarah’s shop Mama Knows Luxury.  This lightweight hook is made from poplar and is so much fun to work with!

It was a bit of a challenge determining what I should attempt to crochet as I did not know how far the wool would go (for example, I could try a blanket, but it would probably be a very tiny one).  Crocheting takes up more yarn/wool than knitting does, so I tried to keep this in mind.  I thought a soft and fluffy carpet would be a great idea since I had never crocheted one before!  Thus, I started off with my wool at full thickness (just as I did with my knitted blanket) and began crocheting in a magic ring with my humongous hook.

After a few rounds, I used up all my wool, much to my dismay!  I was left with a very small and dense rug.

Thus, I gently frogged my work and was careful not to pull too hard.  Since this is unspun wool roving (compared to normal yarn that is spun), this wool can easily rip apart if you use too much force when tugging or pulling on it.  I tried to add more spaces between each stitch so that I could make it less dense and go for more rounds, thus enlarging my carpet.  However, my carpet was looking too “hole-y” after a few rounds, so I decided to scrap that idea.

This is when I decided to split my wool to half thickness so that I would have double the yardage!  Sarah of Mama Knows Luxury advised me on how to do it- you can also see her doing it in action HERE!  I unraveled all my wool and put it in a bin- a larger bin would have been nice, but this was the largest free one I had at the time!

I then placed this bin ontop of my countertop and began pulling it apart in half!  There is a visible line in the wool which is very helpful in guiding you when splitting it.  Letting the wool fall down off the counter enables gravity to help too.

I learned that felting is the process of shrinking and bonding wool fibers together through heat, agitation and moisture.  This causes the microscopic scales on wool fibers to interlock and tighten together, forming a dense cloth/felt with a soft texture. Since I had frogged my work a couple of times, my wool had become a bit uneven and some strands were splaying out.  The moisture in my hands and the frogging (agitation) actually felted my wool a bit which definitely made it harder to split than if I had simply split it at the very beginning.  However, that’s when my handy felting needle came to the rescue!  Felting needles have barbs/notches on them, and when you repeatedly jab at the wool (agitation), it causes the fibers to interlock together.  Thus, I simply used my Clover felting needle to felt the stray ends back into place!  I would definitely recommend getting this tool if you are planning on working with wool.  I was not too scared about accidentally breaking or splitting my wool unevenly since I had my trusty felting needle beside me!

My two wool balls were forming!  The wool got twisted at times when I was splitting my wool, but I gently untwisted it.

With my wool at split thickness, I now had double the yardage, woohoo!

I decided to do half double crochets for my rug so that I could work in the third loops.  This is how I crocheted my popular “Triple Luxe Cowl” to get that gorgeous “knitted V” or stockinette-type stitch to be displayed!  The 40 mm hook worked well with the wool at split thickness as it did not result in an extremely dense piece.

I always chained 2 to begin my round and worked my first half double crochet in that same stitch as the Chain 2.  Furthermore, I slip stitched to the first half double crochet of the round to close it off (not to the Chain 2).

As a reminder, the third loops of half double crochets can be found behind the front and back loops as indicated by the arrows below.  You work in these stitches, thus leaving the front and back loops untouched so they can be displayed outwards.  

Here is another view showing where the third loops are located- you can also check out this helpful video by Moogly HERE if you’ve never worked in the third loops before!

I loved how my rug was looking!

When I finished using my first ball of wool, it was time to begin using my second ball of wool!  Instead of trying to weave in massive ends, I brought out my felting needle again.

I placed the wool ends ontop of one another and began felting them together with my felting needle atop the dense foam.

This is how the wool looked after I felted the ends together- pretty seamless, right?  You would never know there used to be two separate parts!  I thus continued on as though I was working with one ball of wool!

After 6 rounds, I attempted to do a seventh round of half double crochets, but I ran out of wool.  I still had a decent amount of wool left after 6 rounds, so I decided to do slip stitches for the seventh round to give it a polished look and to use up most of the wool!  

Working with this soft wool was so much fun!  The wonderful thing about extreme knitted and crocheted projects is that they work up VERY quickly since you are working with such massive wool and tools.  The hard part is figuring out your numbers and what you can accomplish with your quantity of wool, but if you follow the patterns I’ve designed with this wool, it helps take out the guesswork!  You can also approximate how many stitches can be accomplished with a certain amount of wool using my patterns in case you want to design your own project or make a rug of a different size!

After cutting and felting the ends, my wool rug was complete!  Isn’t it gorgeous?

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Here is the free pattern for my Extreme Crocheted Rug!

Materials:

1 kg (~2 lbs) of unspun wool roving - mine is from Mama Knows Luxury

40 mm crochet hook

Optional: Felting needle, felting board/foam

Split wool to half thickness using above tips or video HERE.

Notes: 

Chain 2 does not count as a stitch.  

To close up a round, always slip stitch to third loop of first hdc of round (not to Chain 2).  

Always work first st(s) in third loop of same stitch where Ch 2 was worked.

From Round 2 and onwards, all stitches are worked in third loops.

Other than chain 2′s, all stitches between Rounds 1-6 are half double crochets.

To make a rug of a larger size, keep increasing by seven stitches after each round.

Round 1: Chain 2, 7 hdc in Magic Ring.  Slip stitch to close. (7 hdc)

Round 2: Ch 2. *Inc*, rep 7 times.  Sl st to close. (14 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 2. *Hdc, Inc*, rep 7 times. Sl st to close. (21 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 2. * Hdc 2, Inc*, rep 7 times.   Sl st to close. (28 hdc)

Round 5: Ch 2. *Hdc 3, Inc*, rep 7 times.   Sl st to close. (35 hdc)

Round 6: Ch 2. *Hdc 4, Inc*, rep 7 times.   Sl st to close. (42 sts)

Round 7: Work slip stitches around in third loops. Sl st to close.  

Cut and felt end to body of rug using felting needle and foam board.  Alternatively, split end into five different strands and weave in each strand separately.  

Finished dimensions: 31″/79 cm in diameter, 97″/246 cm in circumference 

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This rug is a bit on the loose side as you can see when I am holding it up!  If you want a denser rug, you could either use the full thickness with your 40 mm hook, or possibly use a 25 mm hook with the wool at half thickness.  I wanted to maximize the yardage and size of the rug which is why I went with my 40 mm hook at split thickness!

The girls were so excited to step on the rug when I was done!  They were giggling and squishing it with their feet!  Here are Myla and I with our matching pink toenails :)

I actually crocheted this rug for the girls’ teepee as I wanted them to have something soft and cozy to sit upon when they play inside.  This gorgeous teepee is handmade by Ashley Gabby Designs on Etsy!  I love the modern gold polkadots and how it’s made of sturdy canvas.  The little window on the side can roll up as well as the sides of the entrance.  Kids love forts and places where their imaginations can run wild!  Don’t you love my crocheted rug in the teepee?

I wanted to let you know about a neat article that I am featured in!  You can spot myself and some of my yarn in Issue 46 of the beautiful Simply Crochet Magazine!

The article is entitled “Yarn Storage Hacks”, and they interviewed several designers and “wool wranglers” for their tips on storing yarn.  I talked about how we made these shelf dividers from corrugated plastic and took inspiration from the Lion Brand Yarn Studio when we visited New York City years ago.  You can read the full tutorial on how we made our dividers HERE!

Also featured is my friend Sarah of Repeat Crafter Me!  She looks so cute in her crocheted hat with all her hooks!  Both Sarah and I talked about the need to keep our yarn out of reach of curious little toddler hands and how yarn displays can be beautiful works of art!  As I stated in the article, “Yarn is beautiful because it has such gorgeous textures, hues and shapes.  When organized and displayed beautifully, it can serve as a colourful piece of artwork!”  They also included a picture of me crocheting my “Easy Chunky Crocheted Sweater” at the bottom of this spread!  

Currently I have more yarn than what my little shelf with dividers can hold.  It would be such a dream to have a whole wall of yarn- maybe in the future!  It’s always a pleasure being featured in Simply Crochet Magazine- you can look out for copies of this issue in North America!  Once again, you can check out how we made these dividers ourselves in this “DIY Yarn Storage” blog post HERE!

Here’s a sneak peek of what I’ve been working on using my merino wool and huge 40 mm crochet hook from Mama Knows Luxury!