Fruits of My Labor

the dimensions of this depend on the size of ur squeaker and yarn, i had a 4ish cm squeaker and somewhat thick 4/8 cotton yarn (kinda 6/8ish thickness). depending on ur yarn and squeaker u might need to follow a different pattern for the body.

if youre using a different body base pattern, the tunic and blouse pattern are pretty easily adjustable. ill add some notes for that at those sections of the pattern. ill also link some videos i used at relevant sections.

if theres an Action store near where u live, see pic below for the yarn i used for the skin, reddish brown, black and light brown. i got 3 of these but 2 packs was enough. the dark brown and creme were from my stash. i also got the squeaker from a donut dog toy from Action.

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abreviations list (all in us terms):

mr = magic ring sc = single crochet hdc = half dubble crochet slst = slipstitch ch = chain bobble = 5 double crochet in one stitch BLO = back loop only FLO = front loop only

what you need:

-skin color of choice yarn -creme/white yarn (normal for body, thin for blouse) -greyish creme (for boot flaps) -black yarn -dark brown yarn -light brown yarn -reddish brown yarn -green yarn -4 tiny buttons (for arm joints) -cardboard (for shoe sole -3.5mm hook -squeaker -needlefelt needle -stuffing -stitchmarker (optional, i always mark the first stitch of the round)

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once again disclaimer, this is not a propper pattern, this is just what i wrote down while i was crochetting. it may not nessecarily be the best way to do it. i wanted most clothes to be removable, but you have to partially disassemble the doll if you want to remove them. if you dont like how something looks or works ur free to do whatever you want. big fan of fucking around and finding out personally.

if you have any questions feel free to dm me, might take me a while to reply though.

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SQUEAKY CHUCK PATTERN 3.5mm hook

head (skin)

r1: sc 6 in mr r2: (inc) x6 r3: (sc 1, inc) x6 r4: (sc 2, inc) x6 r5: (sc3, inc) x6 r6: (sc4, inc) x6 r7: (sc 5, inc) x6 r8-15 : sc 42 r16: (sc 5, dec) x6 r17: (sc 4, dec) x6 r18: (sc3, dec) x6 r19: (sc2, dec) x6 r20: (sc 1, dec) x6 r21: sc 12 slst, fasten off

ears x2 (skin)

r1: sc6 in mc r2: (inc) x6 r3: (sc, inc) x6 r4-6: sc 18 r7: dec 9. slst fatsen off.

Body - leg up (skin, black, thick creme)

start with skin

r1: ch 6, inc in 2nd, sc 3, 4inc, sc 3, inc r2: inc 2, sc 3, inc 4, sc 3, inc 2 r3: inc 3, sc 5, inc 6, sc 5, inc 3 r4: BLO sc in all r5: sc 3, dec 2, sc 3, dec 2, sc 6, dec 2, sc 3, dec 2, sc 3 r6: sc 1, dec, sc 4, dec 6, sc 4, dec, sc 1. r7: sc 6, dec 3, sc 6 stuff -r8 dec, sc in all

change color to black [color change video]

r9-23: sc in all 1st leg: fasten off

2nd leg [joining legs video]:

r24: sc7, ch 1, sc join in 1st leg after last sc, sc13, sc1 in visible v loop of ch1, sc 7 r25: sc7, sc 1 in remaining v loop of ch1, sc21 r26-31: sc 28 r32: sc 7, change color to creme/white, slst 1, sc 20 r33-35: sc 29 r36: (sc 8, dec) x3 r37: (sc7, dec) x3 r38: (sc6, dec)x3 add squeaker r39: sc21 r40: (sc 5, dec) x3 r41-42: sc18 r43: (sc 1, dec) x6 fasten off

Arms (skin, dark brown)

i made the arms movable with button joints, but after looking at some videos i discovered that what i did is not called a button joint and i dont have a video explaining it, so i hope this drawing helps.

the red bits are the buttons inside of the arms and body, and the thread (blue for clarity, i matched it w the skin) should be pulled tight and finished off with a double or tripple knot inside the body.

or you could just sew on the arms that also works. but wait with doing that until youve finished the blouse as the hands dont fit through the sleeves. i have a seperate section on assembly at the end of the pattern.

start with skin

r1:sc6 in mc r2: inc x6 r3(sc, inc)x6 r4 : sc 18

change color to brown

r5: sc 18 1st arm r6: sc 3, bobble, sc 14. 2nd arm r6.2: sc 14, boble, sc 3 [i matched the top loop to the bobble color but i think it would look better if u didnt] r7: sc 18 r8: (sc 4, dec)x3 r9: (sc 3, dec)x3 r10 sc12

color switch to skin (you might want to do this a round earlier, i didnt initially plan on making the gloves flared, and this color change part can sometimes be seen and look kinda weird)

r11-14: sc 12 r15: (sc4, dec)x2 r16-19 : sc 10 r20: (sc3, dec)x2 r21: sc8 insert button joint r28: (sc2, dec)x2 slst, sew shut

glove flare (dark brown)

r1: ch 15, slst join LONG TAIL r2: (sc4, inc)x3 r3: sc4, inc, sc8, inc, sc 4 r4: sc 2, slst fasten off sew 2 rows below thumb bobble

boots (light brown, dark brown, greyish creme) [video]

these are removable but they dont go on easily, so you gotta patiently massage the feet in there.

start with light brown

ch 7, start in 2nd from hook: r1: sc 5, 3inc, sc 4, inc r2: inc, sc 4, inc 3, sc 4, inc 2 r3: inc, sc 5, hdc inc 7, sc 5, inc 2 r4: slst fasten off. sew in holes/tails, fray ends for flat gluejob. trace onto cardboard for sole.

switch color to dark brown

r1: BLO join slst, BLO sc in all r2-3: sc in all glue in sole r4: sc 8, dec 5, sc 12 r5: sc 7, dec 4, sc 10 r6: sc7, dec2, sc 10 r7-10: sc in all

switch color to greyish creme

r11-12: sc in all r13: slst, FLO sc in all r14-16: sc all slst fasten off

flip the greyish creme flap over.

blouse (thinner creme)

this is a standard raglan pattern, if you need the whole thing bigger/smaller you need to have more/less chains at the beginning. this change also carries over to the collar. the increases are evenly spaced for me, and unless your doll has a very broad chest this shouldnt have to change.

if the arms need more space you need to either add more rows to the r3-7 part and/or add more chains in r8 (this part should fit pretty sugg around the body)

i was experimenting a bit w using BLO to minimize the gap where the sleeve and body seperate (r8). it worked p good but you can ignore it if you dont understand it and just sc in all.

r1: ch24, slst join. r2: (sc 5, inc) x4 r3-7: inc in first of previous inc. last row should have 10 sc between increases. r8: sc5, blo sc 1, ch 5, blo sc join in 1st of next inc, sc 11, blo sc1, ch5, blo sc join in 1st st of next inc, sc 5 r9: sc6, blo sc 1, sc 5, blo sc1, sc11, blo sc 1, sc 5, blo sc 1, sc 6 r10-13: sc in all (36) r14: (sc8, inc)x4 r15: sc in all (40) slst finish off

Sleeve

r1: join mid armpit, slst ,sc2, sc in the leftover bits from the BLO stitches, sc 1, sc in leftover BLO bits, sc2 r2-6: sc in all

collar

join left-middle front, sc 7, inc, sc8, inc, sc 7. turn r2: sc7, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 7. turn r3: sc8, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 8. turn

cuffs

r1: join mid body-facing side, FLO sc 20 r2-4: sc 20, slst fatsen off

Tunic (red brown) [tunesian entrelac crochet]

if you want to make this bigger i recommend keeping the same square layout, but making the squares bigger. its a bit of measuring and math to figure it out.

the tunic is made in tunesian crochet and i dont really know what written patterns for that look like so i hope this makes sense.

for a single square:

r1: ch4, start in 2nd back bump from hook. pull up a loop from ever back bump. you should have 4 loops on your hook total. simplestitch in all r2-4: simplestitch in all. r5: slst in all. fasten off

for the slanted parts i did the decrease by pulling through the middle 2 loops in one go on the back pass

this is how the full thing should look, its worked from bottom left to top right.

sew together the shoulders together, then sew in all of the ends :) good luck

tunesian crochet has a tendancy to curl, so if you used cotton i def recommend blocking it

i defined the grid a little bit with a dark brown pencil.

cowl (green)

BLO sc 7, repeat till desired lenght, then BLO slst join the last row to the first.

scalp undercut bit (dark brown)

r1: sc 6 in mr r2: (inc) x6 r3: (sc 1, inc) x6 r4: (sc 2, inc) x6 r5: (sc3, inc) x6 r6: (sc 4, inc)x6 r7: sc36

sew on back of the head (recommend doing this before the ears and face, see end for more detailed assembly instructions)

hair (reddish brown) [hair video]

disclaimer, this is kind of a mess. the lenghts didnt line up the way i intended so i improvised by adding loose strands and spent a lot of time pinning every strand in place before glueing them down.

i used bison kit contact glue since its sturdy, transparant, flexible and waterproof. you can use hot glue as well, i just personally dont like it because its bulky.

r1: sc 21 in mc. join BLO slst r2: ch 12, sc in 2nd from hook, gdc10, BLO slst join r3: ch 12, sc in 2nd from hook, gdc10, BLO slst join r4: ch13, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 11, BLO slst join r5: ch13, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 11, BLO slst join r6: ch 14, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 12, BLO slst join r7: ch16, sc in 2nd form hook, hdc 14, BLO slst join r8: ch 18, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 16, BLO slst join r9: ch 18, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 16, BLO slst join r10: ch 14, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 12, BLO slst join r11: ch 12, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 10, BLO slst join r12: ch 10, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 8, BLO slst join

from now on, join in the FLO's of previous round r13: ch10, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 8, FLO slst join r14: ch10, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 8 , FLO slst join r15: ch12, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 10 , FLO slst join r16: ch12, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 10 , FLO slst join r17: ch14, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 12 , FLO slst join r18: ch16, sc in 2nd form hook, hdc 14, FLO slst join r19: ch 18, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 16, FLO slst join r20: ch16, sc in 2nd form hook, hdc 14, FLO slst join r21: ch14, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 12 , FLO slst join

1x ch 6, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 4 2x ch8, sc in 2nd from hook, hdc 6 2x ch 10, sc in 2nd from chain, hdc 8, slst in same, fasten off. 2x ch 12, sc in 2nd from chain, hdc 10, slst in same, fasten off. 3x ch14

pin all in place until it looks good, tie +glue loose strands first. then glue back pieces, crown, and lastly bangs/ top back layer. some of the lose strands go behind the ears, one is the left sideburn, and the rest is to cover up the crown. these pics are the best i can do as a guide, this was my first time doing this so i was struggling lol.

i didnt fully glue down the bangs and the top back layer bc i thought it would be fun if u could ruffle his hair, but my friend who i gave the plush to has significantly abused him (its been 2 days) and his hair is a mess so im gonna have to glue it down again lol. might as well do it all the first time if u plan on throwing him down the stairs or something.

Face

for eyes + eyebrows, embroider outline with dark brown, then needle felt [video] the inner parts w unraveled dark brown fluff. the dark brown i used was probably acrylic. cotton doesnt really work well for this.

Belt and pouch (dark brown)

the belt is a 3 strand basic friendship bracelet! [video]

sew together the ends and hide it with by sewing the pouch on top.

i didnt write down the pattern for the pouch, but from the top of my head its the same start as the squares for the tunic

r1-9: simple stitch in all r10: simple stitch 1, decrease by putting your hook through 2 vertical bars when pulling up a loop, simple stitch edge 1. r11: slst in all, finish with a long tail

use tail to sew together the sides, and sew the pouch onto the belt. use some yellow thread to make a button.

ASSEMBLY.

put on the blouse, put the arms in their place and finish the button joints.

put on the tunic, lace the sides with dark brown yarn, finish with a knot and hide the tails underneath the chest part of the tunic.

slide on the belt and boots.

sew the scalp undercut bit to the head

sew the ears to the head

tie + glue the loose hair strands behind the ears

glue the back of the hair

glue the back of the hair

glue the middle circle part of the hair

glue the top back layer and bangs

sew the head to the body

put on the cowl

i hope this is somewhat clear, feel free to dm me is you have questions.