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Hey so I made your clown cat bc I’m in love with him but i think I did something wrong cause the body came out really sloped inward and the legs were too long and the body was too short? Can you clarify what weight yarn you used? I’m using a 5.5 hook and 4 weight yarn.
hi! i used worsted weight/size 4 yarn. your hook may be too big for the clown cat though. for the body, i used a size f crochet hook, which is 3.75mm. if your 5.5 hook is 5.5 mm, it would work fine for the head, but the gauge would be off for the body! hope this helps a bit!
I made my own clown bunny!! Can’t thank you enough for taking the time to write out the pattern, it was so easy to follow and turned out amazing <3 keep doing what you do!
WOW this is fantastic!!!! I’m so glad you enjoyed the pattern and I love how you made it your own. Thanks so much for sharing with me!! <3
long time, no see! i’ve been knitting a lot more lately, so i spent some time over the holidays making some little plush friends to get back into the swing of crocheting. here’s cinnabun, bunana pudding, and strawbunny shortcake!
they’re freehanded so no official patterns for them, but i used the mushroom pals pattern as a base :3 happy crafting!
why do we need 2 balls of yarn for the clown cat head? 🧐
the head is worked using two strands of worsted weight yarn held together! you could do this using both ends of one ball of yarn, but it’s easier to use two imo :3
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I finished up my part of a “Whatever Winter Holiday You Celebrate” craft exchange today! It’s a little late (oops) but I’m super excited to ship it off. The friend it’s going to is a clown enthusiast, so I hope they love it.
Pattern info is listed below if you’re interested in making your own! Hope ya’ll had/have a satisfactory Whatever Winter Holiday You Celebrate!
Clown cat plushie crochet pattern is listed for free here.
The plushie pictured on this post is a mini version of the og clown cat plush (7″ tall vs ~10″ tall). I don’t have instructions written for the mini at this time, but I’m happy to provide them if anyone would like them! Just shoot me a message!
The clown cat cross stitch was freehanded and based off of a piece of art my friend painted. Because it isn’t my art, I don’t feel comfortable providing a pattern for it, but I do plan on creating a cross stitch pattern based on the clown cat doll (I think by Russ Berrie -- it’s the same doll the clown cat plushie is based on, fun fact!). I’ll link that pattern here when it’s finished.
Feel free to reach out if you have questions or run into any issues with the pattern listed. Happy crafting!
Quick lil disclaimer: this pattern has only been tested by me so far. You might run into a mistake or two while following the pattern because of this. Feel free to message me if you have any feedback for how the pattern is written or if you find a mistake you’d like me to fix!
Difficulty: Beginner-Intermediate. Mostly beginner amigurumi and tunisian concepts but shaping and mixing tunisian/standard crochet may be difficult for those just learning to crochet.
Finished Size: 8-ish inches tall
Materials:
*i used DK yarn for the stem, cap, socks, and shoes of the mushroom but sport weight/baby yarn would be nice for clothing. feel free to mix and match colors to make a super cool mushroom. i focused on earth tones because i have a ton of earthy scraps to get rid of but you can make your pals bright, or base them off of your favorite mushroom, or whatever you like!
- 1/4 ball of cap color (i used orange to make Galerina autumnalis, red for amanita)
- 1/4 ball of stem color
- scraps of shoe color (optional, if you want shoes)
- sock color (optional, depends how tall/if you want socks)
- small amounts of outfit colors (amount depends what you make but outfits don’t take much)
- small amounts of accessory colors (amount depends on if you want accessories, doesn’t take much yarn)
- scraps of yarn/thread, felt, etc to decorate cap (optional)
- G/6/4.25 mm hook
- yarn needle
- wadding/stuffing
- safety eyes/yarn/thread for eyes and face (i used 6mm safety eyes and embroidery thread. materials you use depend on if you want a face and what you have on hand)
- powder blush (optional, for cheeks)
Abbreviations (US Crochet Terms):
ch = chain
st = stitch
yo = yarn over
sl = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase
dec = decrease
fo = finish off
Special Techniques
Tunisian Crochet - knit stitch is used for sweaters, simple stitch used for a skirt. Tunisian is easier for me and works up faster than knitting. Not every piece of clothing in this pattern requires tunisian crochet, just the sweaters in the picture.
Running stitch - used to cinch head into shape after stuffing
Ladder stitch - used to stitch pieces and clothing together
French knot - optional, for decorating cap
Satin stitch - optional, for decorating cap (would work well for gills)
Mushroom Pal Doll
Head (in stem color):
Start with magic ring
1. sc 6 in ring (6)
2. *sc inc* 6 times (12)
3. *sc inc, sc* 6 times (18)
4. *sc inc, sc 2* 6 times (24)
5. *sc inc, sc 3* 6 times (30)
6-9. sc in each st (30). After finishing row 9, place eyes between rows 5 & 6, about 6 stitches apart. If you’d like your pal to have a face, go ahead and embroider that now.
10. *sc inc* 30 times (60)
11. *sc inc, sc* 30 times (90). FO, weave in ends.
Cap (in cap color):
Start with magic ring
1. sc 10 in ring (10)
2. *sc inc* 10 times (20)
3. *sc inc, sc* 10 times (30)
4. *sc inc, sc 2* 10 times (40)
5. *sc inc, sc 3* 10 times (50)
6. *sc inc, sc 4* 10 times (60)
7. *sc inc, sc 5* 10 times (70)
8. *sc inc, sc 6* 10 times (80)
9. *sc inc, sc 7* 10 times (90)
10-13. sc in each st (90). Don’t FO yet. After completing row 13, decorate your cap as desired. You can add french knots or felt for spots, embroider gills, etc. Go wild homie.
14. Line up the edges of the head and cap. Join the pieces by sc in every stitch of both head and cap, stuffing when you’re 3/4 of the way through. Stuff to desired firmness. Cap will be a little bit gathered and the head will lose shape as you stuff. FO and weave in ends.
Using a strand of stem color and your yarn needle, sew a running stitch between rows 10 and 11 of the head starting at the back of the head. The running stitch should be where the head flares into the gills of the mushroom cap. Pull the ends of the yarn tightly to cinch the head into shape. Use 2-3 square knots to secure, then bury the ends of the thread.
Body (stem color)
ch 12, sl to join into circle
1-3. sc in each ch/st (12)
4. *sc inc, sc* 6 times (18)
5-10. sc in each (18)
11. *sc inc, sc 2* 6 times (24)
12-15. sc in each (24). Don’t FO -- leg #1 will be worked directly into body.
Leg 1 (cont. from body, stem color)
*color change suggestions listed for sock lengths
16. Sc in first 12 stitches of body (12)
17. Sc in first stitch to make a circle and in each stitch after (12)
18-21. Sc in each stitch. Switch to sock color at row 19 for thigh-highs. Switch to sock color after completing row 21 for knee-highs.
22. *sc dec, sc* 4 times (8) Switch to sock color for ankle socks.
23-26. sc in each (8). Switch to shoe color after completing row 23 if you want shoes.
27. *sc dec* 4 times (4). FO, stitch bottom of shoe closed with tail and bury the end. Stuff leg through top of body -- I used a chopstick to help stuff since the leg is thin.
Leg 2 (stem color)
Join yarn to body near inner thigh of leg 1 and ch 1. Crochet over tail or weave in. Repeat leg 1.
Arms (x2)
start with magic ring
1. sc 4 in ring (4)
2. *sc, inc* 2 times (6)
3-10. sc in each (6). FO, leaving a long tail to sew onto body. Stuff to desired firmness and stitch top closed.
Construction
1. If you haven’t already, finish stuffing the body to desired firmness. The crotch of the mushroom friend is still open, so stitch that closed with a piece of stem color yarn.
2. Use a ladder stitch to attach head to body. I stitched the body to row 3 of the head.Your pal will be top-heavy! Clothing will help stabilize.
3. Sew the arms to the sides of the body. I chose to attach them between rows 1 & 2 of the body.
Clothing
*clothing instructions are a little bit ambiguous bc you have to decide on sizes, colors, and shapes. some pieces are mix and match, some have bases and interchangeable sleeves/lengths.
Knitted Sweater/Dress Body Panel (x2) (on both mushrooms in picture)
*tunisian knit stitch used
1. Draw up a loop in each ch (10 loops). Return pass.
2. YO. Knit stitch in next 8 vertical bars. YO. Knit stitch in last vertical bar (12 loops). Return Pass.
3. Knit stitch in each vertical bar (12 loops). Return Pass.
4. YO. Knit stitch in next 10 vertical bars. YO. Knit stitch in last vertical bar (14 loops). Return pass.
5. Knit stitch in each vertical bar (14 loops). Return pass.
6. YO. Knit stitch in next 12 vertical bars. YO. Knit stitch in last vertical bar (16 loops). Return pass.
7. Knit stitch in each vertical bar (16 loops). Return pass.
8. YO. Knit stitch in next 14 vertical bars. YO. Knit stitch in last vertical bar (18 loops). Return pass.
9. Knit stitch in each vertical bar (18 loops). Return Pass.
10. YO. Knit stitch in next 16 vertical bars. YO. Knit stitch in last vertical bar (20 loops). Return pass.
11. Knit stitch in each vertical bar (20 loops). Return pass. Repeat to desired length.
Final row: sl in each vertical bar and around the corners. FO, leaving a long tail to sew sides together. Block your work if you need to.
When both panels are completed, ladder stitch the sides together up to row 6. Weave in the ends.
Knitted Sweater Sleeves (x2)
*tunisian knit stitch used
join yarn at the corner of the sweater panel -- front panel for the right sleeve, back panel for the left
1. Using the sides of the sweater pieces, pull up 8 loops. Return pass.
2-5. Knit stitch in each vertical bar (8 loops). Return pass.
6. Sc in each vertical bar. FO, leaving long tail.
Once both sleeves are completed, put the sweater on the mushroom friend. Ladder stitch the sleeves closed around the arm of the mushroom friend. Stitch the top corners of the sweater pieces together.
*essentially the same concept as legs but slightly scaled up
Ch 26. Sl to make a loop
1. Sc in each ch (26)
2-6. Sc in each stitch (26)
7. Sc in first 13 stitches (13)
8. Sc in first stitch to make a loop. Sc in each stitch to end. (13)
9. Sc in each stitch (13). Repeat to desired length. For flared pants, add increases at row 12.
For leg 2, join yarn to inner thigh of unworked side of pants, then repeat pants pattern from row 7 on. Stitch the crotch of the pants closed before putting on mushroom.
1. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and each ch to end (10)
2-6. Sc in each stitch (10). FO.
Sew panel to top of pants/shorts/skirt, making sure the middle of the panel is aligned with the front middle of the bottoms. Make a second panel for the back if desired. For straps, join yarn in top corner of the panel and ch to desired length -- either to connect to back panel or to connect to back of bottoms.
This pattern is available for free here because I don’t believe in gatekeeping crafts but if you’d like to show me some love, buy me a kofi and support my yarn habit!
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Full disclaimer, this pattern has not been tested by anyone but me yet. I haven’t had the chance to make a second clown cat and take pictures of the process yet. I only have the pattern written for a bi-color hat and body for now but it would be pretty easy to convert to once color. Feel free to message me if you have questions about any part of the process and I can hopefully explain a little better!
*instructions listed are specifically for a cat, but the ears, face, and tail can be altered to be a different animal. crochet the head as instructed below, embroider your desired face, and find a good pattern for ears you want. just make sure to use two strands of yarn and an H hook so the size isn’t off.
Materials:
- 2 balls of yarn in chosen head color (white)
- 1 ball of yarn in color A (½ main colors. I chose red)
- 1 ball of yarn in color B (2/2 main colors. I chose yellow)
- 1 ball of yarn in color C (1/1 accent colors. I chose blue)
- Tiniest amount of yarn for nose (I used red for that classic clown nose look)
- safety eyes (I used 12 mm, you can also embroider them or use buttons)
- stuffing/wadding
- H/size 8/5.00 mm hook
- F/size 5/3.75 mm hook
- bell (optional, for nose)
- pompoms or buttons (optional, for body and hat decoration. I opted to make my own tiny pompoms because I didn’t want to buy any. Instructions are listed in this pattern)
- embroidery thread (optional, I used thread to embroider eyelashes and mouth)
- makeup or fabric paint + clean brush to apply (optional)
Abbreviations (US Crochet Terms):
ch - chain
sl - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
inc - increase
dec - decrease
fo - finish off
st - stitch
Special Terms/Techniques:
Intarsia/Mosiac/Jacquard crochet - used for hat. Daisy Farm Crafts’ gingham blanket patterns explain the technique really well. Here’s a link! You have to scroll a bit to find the explanation.
Popcorn/Bobble stitch - used to make pompoms on hat and body
Ladder Stitch - Used to stitch parts together, join halves of body, and minor tailoring of the “hip” area.
Head (head color) x1:
*Use H hook
**Head is worked using two strands of yarn at once
Worked in the round. Start with a magic ring
sc 6 in magic ring (6)
*sc inc in next stitch* repeat 6 times (12)
*sc inc, sc in next stitch* repeat 6 times (18)
*sc inc, sc in next 2 stitches* repeat 6 times (24)
*sc inc, sc in next 3 stitches* repeat 6 times (30)
*sc inc, sc in next 4 stitches* repeat 6 times (36)
sc in each stitch (36)
sc in each stitch (36)
sc in each stitch (36)
sc in each stitch (36)
sc in each stitch (36)
sc in each stitch (36)
sc in each stitch (36). Place your eyes between between rows 9 & 10, about six stitches apart.
*dec, sc in next 4* repeat 6 times (30)
*dec, sc in next 3* repeat 6 times (24)
*dec, sc in next 2* repeat 6 times (18). Embroider the rest of the face and begin stuffing.
*dec, sc in next stitch* repeat 6 times (12). Finish stuffing.
*dec* repeat 6 times (6). FO and stitch shut, leaving a long tail to attach head to body later.
Ears (head color) x2:
*Use H hook
**Ears are worked using two strands of yarn at once
Worked in the round. Start with a magic ring.
sc 4 in ring (4)
*sc, inc* repeat once (6)
*inc* repeat 6 times (12)
sc in each stitch (12)
sc in each stitch (12). FO, leaving a long tail.
Flatten into triangle and stitch to top of head. I positioned the ears between row 3 & 4 of the head and sewed down the side.
Nose x1:
*use f hook from this point on
**use one strand of thread at a time from this point on
Worked in the round. Start with a magic ring.
sc 6 in magic ring (6)
*sc inc in next stitch* repeat 6 times (12)
sc in each stitch (12)
sc in each stitch (12). If you’re using a bell in the nose, add that now.
*dec* repeat 6 times (6). If you’re using stuffing, add that now.
*dec* repeat 3 times (3). FO and stitch shut, leaving a long tail.
Sew one or two rows below the eyes, directly between them.
Hat (colors A, B, and C):
*Intarsia/Tapestry crochet is used for this piece. A link explaining how to use this method is provided under “special techniques.” Brush up and practice if you need to!
Using color A, start with a magic ring.
sc 2 in color A. Switch to color B. sc 2 in color B. (4)
sc inc, sc in color A. Switch to color B. sc inc, sc in color B. (6)
*sc inc* repeat 3 times in color A. Switch to color B. *sc inc* repeat 3 times in color B. (12)
sc in first 6 stitches with color A. Switch to color B. sc in last 6 stitches with color B. (12)
sc in first 6 stitches with color A. Switch to color B. sc in last 6 stitches with color B. (12)
sc in first 6 stitches with color A. Switch to color B. sc in last 6 stitches with color B. (12)
sc in first 6 stitches with color A. Switch to color B. sc in last 6 stitches with color B. (12)
sc in first 6 stitches with color A. Switch to color B. sc in last 6 stitches with color B. (12). Switch to color C.
*sc inc* repeat 12 times. (24)
*sc inc* repeat 24 times (48). FO leaving a long tail.
Weave the end of color C towards the center of the hat, between the space where the hat ends and the ruffle begins. Sew the hat to the head, adding stuffing to the hat to make it stand. Pompom will be added later.
Because the hat is worked in the round, the colors may create a kind of swirl instead of a true half and half look. I chose to block my hat out by dampening it with warm water and twisting it until I was happy with the way the colors sat.
Arms (head color, A or B) x2:
*work first arm in color A, second in color B. Ruffles are worked separately in color C and sewn on
In Head Color, start with magic ring
sc 6 in magic ring (6)
*sc inc* repeat 6 times (12)
*sc inc, sc* 6 times (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18). Switch to color A or B.
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18)
sc in each stitch (18). Stuff and FO leaving a long tail. Stitch the top shut and leave a long tail to attach to body later.
Arm Ruffle (color C) x2:
ch 18, join to make a circle
1. sc inc in each chain (36)
2. sc inc in each stitch (72). Sl in next stitch and FO. Sew onto arm where body color meets color A/B.
Body (color A or B) x2:
*body is worked in halves and stitched together
**body is worked in rounds for feet, then rows for chest/belly
***the “hips” of the body are angular due to decrease; I ladder stitched over the angles after stuffing and constructing to make the body look smoother on the sides
In color A or B, begin with a magic ring
sc 6 in magic ring (6)
*sc inc* repeat 6 times (12)
*sc inc, sc* repeat 6 times (18)
*sc inc, sc in next 2 stitches* (24)
sc in each stitch (24)
sc in each stitch (24)
sc in each stitch (24). Chain 5. Body is worked in rows from this row on.
sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 3 ch. sc in next 24 stitches. sc 4 in other side of ch spaces (32). Ch 1, turn.
sc in each stitch (32). Ch 1, turn.
sc in each stitch (32). Ch 1, turn.
sc in each stitch (32). Ch 1, turn.
sc in each stitch (32). Ch 1, turn.
sc 14, sc dec twice, sc 14 (30). Ch 1, turn.
sc 13, sc dec twice, sc 13 (28). Ch 1, turn.
sc 12, sc dec twice, sc 12 (26) Ch 1, turn.
sc 11, sc dec twice, sc 11 (24) Ch 1, turn.
sc 10, sc dec twice, sc 10 (22) Ch 1, turn.
sc 9, sc dec twice, sc 9 (20) Ch 1, turn.
sc 8, sc dec twice, sc 8 (18) Ch 1, turn.
sc 8, sc dec, sc 8 (17) Ch 1, turn.
sc 7, sc dec, sc 8 (16) Ch 1, turn.
sc 7, sc dec, sc 7 (15) Ch 1, turn.
sc 6, sc dec, sc 7 (14) Ch 1, turn.
sc 6, sc dec, sc 6 (13) Ch 1, turn.
sc 5, sc dec, sc 6 (12) Ch 1, turn.
sc in each stitch (12) Ch 1, turn.
sc in each stitch (12). FO and weave in end.
Stitch the halves of the body together with a ladder stitch. Stuff the feet to desired firmness. You should have about 24 total stitches at the top of the body where the “neck” is – it’s okay if you’re missing a stitch or two though. The neck ruffle will be worked directly to the top of the body and will be made in the round.
Join color C to neck.
sc inc in each stitch (~48)
sc inc in each stitch (~96)
dc inc in each stitch (~192). Sl in next stitch. FO and weave in end.
Tail (head color) x1:
*tail can be made longer or shorter. add or subtract repetitions of row 3 to desired length
**i chose not to stuff the tail but you can if you’d prefer to
start with a magic ring
sc 6 in magic ring (6)
*sc inc* repeat 6 times (12)
sc in each stitch (12)
sc in each stitch (12)
sc in each stitch (12)
sc in each stitch (12). FO and leave a long tail.
Pompoms (color C) x4:
*regular fuzzy pompoms or buttons would work just fine for this project but in case you don’t have access to either of those and don’t want to buy them, here’s a fast lil tutorial. it’s basically just one single popcorn stitch tacked into a sphere shape.
ch 3
in 3rd ch from hook, dc 5 (5). remove hook from loop and reinsert in the top of first dc. insert hook in loop and pull through. ch 1, FO and leave a long tail.
Sew your popcorn stitch into a sphere. I sewed the top of the stitch to the bottom chain, then the side of the first dc to the side of the last dc. Play around with tailoring your popcorn until it looks like a pompom.
Construction:
At this point, you should have a head (stuffed with eyes and mouth), nose, hat, two ears, body, two arms with ruffles on the wrist, a tail, and some pompoms.
If you haven’t already, stitch the ears, hat, and nose to the head.
Attach the head to the body using the long tail left after FO. Finish stuffing as you sew. I used a ladder stitch and aligned row 15 of the head to the neck opening since both have ~24 stitches. It’s okay if part of the neck ruffle is tacked to the head.
At this point, I tailored the “hips” of the body to be smoother. Originally it was pretty angular. I used a ladder stitch to hide some of the “extra” fabric on the hips. You can leave it if you choose, of tailor it to whatever hip shape you like.
Attach the arms to the body. I, of course, used a ladder stitch. The arms are sewn to the side of the body, right underneath the neck ruffle.
The tail is sewn to the back of the body. I chose to place mine towards the bottom, where color A and color B meet.
Sew pompoms onto your clown cat. I put one on top of the hat, then three on the center of the body like buttons.
Finally, add makeup. You can do any design you like! I’ve used fabric paint before but I don’t like the texture it has, so now I use cheap makeup and brushes. (Because I sell/gift plushies, the pallet and brushes I use have never touched human skin and are consistently cleaned but if you’re making a plushie for yourself, you can use whatever you have. Finish off with a little scotch guard if you want to protect the makeup or leave as is. Of course, if the plushie is being gifted to a pet or a child, don’t put makeup on it – embroider or use non-toxic paint instead).
That’s it! Now you have your very own clown cat (or other animal, if you decided to use a different head pattern).
Again, this pattern has only really been tested by yours truly and I haven’t had a chance to take pictures to go with these instructions, so if you run into any problems, go ahead and reach out to me! Happy crafting!
This pattern is available for free here because I don’t believe in gatekeeping crafts but if you’d like to show me some love, support my yarn habit through kofi!
“The Fool” has very quickly become my most commissioned plushie, topping Cthulu! All of them have been free-hand so far. I really need to write down the pattern when I get a break!
It’s been a productive morning. I didn’t end up going to sleep so I decided to put the finishing touches on an order. I cleaned up after my pets, fed them, and headed out to town to run some errands. I tend to struggle with executive function so I try to reward myself when I get something done. Today, I’m grabbing a pineapple smoothie and a pastry to share with my little brother. I’ve been wanting to make a squishmallow-esque project for awhile, so I think I’ll spend the rest of the day doing that.
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
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I really haven’t had a lot of time to myself lately, even though I quit my job and am mostly at home now. School, pets, my family, and commissions take up a lot of my free time. In the name of self care, I stayed up all night talking to friends and finishing a lil naked Sherb. He’s not my best work -- his hair is a little too dark, his stitches are a little too messy, and he needs a sweater, but I still love him.
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