W.L.M. Speaks

The undershirt... Seems like it should be an afterthought.  Granted, in the realm of everything else,  it is a minor detail.  But it is those minor details that set a person apart significantly from the rest.

The Color: We suggest a light gray undershirt over a stark white one. Why? Just like you learned in 6th grade science , white reflects more light than gray, allowing us to see the white undershirt through thinner, light colored shirts.  A gray, or heather shirt will allow the light to be absorbed through a fine oxford cloth. 

The Collar: If you aren't going to wear a tie, we recommend a V-Neck. You don't want to dress like a low level employee at a bank and show the top of the undershirt collar-- promotions aren't coming that way, friend.  If you wear a tie, a crewneck is perfectly acceptable.  Whatever you do, stay away from the wifebeater, unless, that is, you work for the mob in Jersey.

The Fit: Make sure the shirt isn't too baggy. A lose undershirt will give temporary creases underneath your dress shirt as you move around.  Also, your undershirt shouldn't fit like Underarmour-- if it does, the shirt probably won't be able to tuck into your pants-- and then it will look like you have a mushroom sprouting from the intersection of your pants and shirt. Never a good look.

Flight is the only truly new sensation than men have achieved in modern history.  -James Dickey

There was a day when people traveled in style. A suit was the attire for men. A dress or "smart" outfit was the attire for women.  There was a time when Victoria's Secret sweatpants and Nike sweatshirts weren't the standard attire. When someone would be embarrassed to show up in public looking disheveled and "like they rolled out of bed in the morning."

How many times have you heard a person complains about "the decline in service related to air travel?"  Why shouldn't we expect a decline in service-- have you seen how people dress on a flight?  How can you respect that as an attendant? Next time you board a plane, note how many people are wearing a tie.  At most, you'll count 10-- out of 200 (there are certain routes that act as an exception). Why should service level stay the same when the norm is the decline of formality?

Next time you go flying, wear a suit, like a gentleman. Notice the difference in the service you receive: smiles, first class upgrades, and free drinks from the flight attendants.  And remember to smile, stand tall, and ask the person sitting next to you how their day is going. Not only will you be returned to a more dignified era of air travel, you'll be shocked by the number of people admiring you as you make your way through the terminal.

Sweat is the cologne of accomplishments. -Heywood Broun

Cologne, or Eau de Cologne, was first invented in 1709 by Giovanni Maria Farina in Cologne, Germany.  An Italian perfume maker, Farina's formula has been produced at his shop at Obenmarspforten since 1709 and still remains a secret.  The inventors thoughts on how to wear it, however, are not locked in a vault.

We believe cologne should be applied to reflect hints of smell, rather than create an overpowering barrage on the nose. This is what Farina noted when he first invented cologne: that when one applies too much, people smell a fragrance- not their signature scent, the scent you give off when your body reacts with the cologne throughout the day.  Unfortunately, most men don't abide by this rule. They bathe in their Polo, Abercrombie, and Chanel, since they have a false perception that women will be more attracted if everyone in a 4 foot radius can smell their presence. 

Rather, the intent of cologne for a gentleman should be to draw people in- it should be faint and almost intimate.  If a woman catches a whiff of your cologne, biologically she'll wonder where the smell is coming from-- this is a much better situation than her knowing immediately who is wearing it. Typically, only your lady should smell it completely- everyone else should merely get a whiff of its presence when they are around you.  

To properly apply cologne you must get it to interact with your body chemistry.  This will give you your unique scent, not a fragrance everyone can buy.    Colognes react to heat, so apply it to your pulse points, like the base of your throat, back of your neck, and between your pectorals. As you wear cologne throughout the day, it will continually give off your signature scent-- your blood vessels closest to the skin emit heat, and thus diffuse the smell.

Lastly, do not apply the cologne to your clothing-- it has oils that will stain your finer garments and it will make you smell like the cologne, not your unique scent. 

Each week W.L.M. Speaks will have a boardroom executive give us their opinion on a differentiating factor that gentleman can use to get an advantage over their competitors.  This week, he decided to touch on the subject of cufflinks: "The easiest way to set yourself apart in a meeting today." 

In today's business climate, cufflinks are the new mark of a professional.  Most people have discovered the significance of a nice chronograph and pocket square.  One accessory remains open for differentiation: the cufflink.

If you don't have a pair of cufflinks yet, I recommend getting a traditional silver square or circular pair.  These were the first kind of links I owned.  These links will serve you well, since they can be worn with almost everything and are versatile in their range of formality.  If possible, get the links engraved with your initials.

When you wear a colored pair of links, make sure the color and pattern on the links matches that of the tie. I was in a meeting with a guy from Alabama once- his flannel links didn't go well with his houndstooth tie. (Editor's note: A solid link color can be worn with a patterned tie, if the colors match).  Also, in general, leave the gimmicky cufflinks like dice or working clocks to those people who need to draw the attention away from other aspects of their outfit, or more likely, their personality.

There are different styles of link: the silk knot, the bar and rocker, the barbell, and the chain link.  I prefer a chain link (the original design)- it is regarded as the most elegant.  The barbell is a heavy link which will draw taunt the wearer's shirt.  Some baggier shirts need this treatment when worn beneath a suit jacket.  The bar and rocker is the most common kind of link, and also the easiest to use. There are of course slight variations on these link types (i.e. the fixed back, the whale back closure) but since the bar and rocker or the chain link are the "go-to's," there is no need to waste your time describing them.

It's the little details. -John Wooden

93% of CEO's judge their employees based on the polish of their shoes. Ok, we made that up, but people look at your shoes- it is one of those little details people catch.  There is an art to The Men's Shoe, but we'll tackle basic shoe shining first.

To do it right, and we recommend you always pay attention to the details, you'll need these materials:

Welt Brush. This tool is used to get the grit out of the welt, or the seam where the shoe's leather meets the sole.  You can use a toothbrush in its place.

Polishing Cloth. The longer you use your polishing cloth, the more it becomes saturated with rich oils and dyes, adding extra luster to your polishing efforts.  We like linen cloths, but a lint-free cotton cloth will suffice as well.  And use the same cloth for application and buffing, even if the color you're using is different from the color you've used in the past.

Polishing Brush. Horsehair is the material you want your polishing brush to be made of.  This material gives a high shine once you have the polish worked into the leather.

Shoe Polish. You have two options here, cream or wax based polish.  Cream polishes won't give you the same shine as a wax polish, though they can be easier to apply. Make sure you match up the color of the shoe polish appropriately- there are many options of browns, for example. And don't just choose from the options available at a large store like Target, go to a men's shoe store. They'll have the best selection.

Sole Dressing. Applied with a small brush or cotton swab, this will keep the edge of the sole of our shoes looking new despite previously looking scuffed from sidewalks.

Now that we've got you the right tools, what is the right method?

First. Wipe your shoes down to remove any topical dirt or smears.  Use a wet cloth, and remember to put newspaper down in your work area.  A good shoe polish can get messy.  Next, use your welt brush to clean the entire welt strip.

Second. If your sole is scuffed, apply the sole edge dressing.  Use the steady hand of a surgeon for this application avoiding application to the leather-- otherwise, you'll permanently stain the uppers. Allow the sole dressing to dry prior to continuing. 

Third. Apply polish, and use some force- no need to be a patsy about it.  After 5 minutes the polish should be dry.  Extra shine can be applied if you work a bit of warm water into the polish while you apply it. Once dry, buff the entire shoe with a polishing brush.  We recommend using the linen polishing cloth to forcefully buff the shoe, especially the toe of the shoe.  It will give it that "Wall Street" shine.

I kept the same suit for six years, and the same dialogue. They just changed the title of the picture and the leading lady. -Robert Mitchum

We know how embarrassing it is to be uneducated on a discussion topic.  It happened to us when we were forced to discuss the finer points of tobacco chew at a Monster Truck Rally.  At W.L.M. Speaks, we want you to know what you're talking about- especially when it comes to your style. So know these terms. They will help your tailor navigate a perfect fit for your next suit.

The Drop. This term is used to denote a suit's shape.  A person who is a "drop six" is a suit maker's dream.  This means their chest is six inches larger than their waist-- and they can wear practically anything.

Kissing Buttons. The manner in which cuff buttons on expensive suits are sewn so that they almost overlap up the sleeve.  The picture included in this post gives you an example of what we're talking about.

The Jigger. The button in a double-breasted jacket that always, we repeat, always, is kept fastened. If the jigger isn't buttoned on a double-breasted suit, you probably look like you are swimming in a sea of fabric.

Scye. The word used for the armhole.  The size and shape of this is often what determines how well a jacket will fit on you.  Generally, certain brands will have certain scye- find the brand that has the best one for you.  A high armhole helps keep the jacket collar firmly affixed to the back of a man's neck throughout a range of movement. A big sloppy one lets the coat move around, which is less desirable, but it's less expensive to make. (To see how it is measured, see these: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQecFiKBwSs and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7quSZ_lBLY)

Bosom Pocket. Pockets cut into the suit's fabric which are generally covered by a flap.

Fusing.  This is a method that suit makers use to reduce the amount of sewing required.  We'll discuss this more in an upcoming post, but almost all suits now have a least some amount of fusing.  It is a method using heat, pressure, and adhesive to bond fabrics.  We think it is a cheap, classless production method.

Worsted Wool. A smooth wool fabric often used for suits and intended for year round wear.  This is the material in the suit we suggest you purchase, particularly if you don't yet own one.

Camel hair. A thicker soft-textured fabric that is used for men's sportscoats and overcoats. 

Fashion fades. Style is eternal.  -Coco Chanel

We're guessing you don't still like the same alcohol you liked when you turned 21. And that you don't listen to the same 5 bands you did 10 years ago.  There is probably a little variety in the mix, isn't there?

At W.L.M. Speaks, we think our style should evolve just like our other preferences.  If you are wearing the same suit as your father, you're doing something wrong- and people are noticing.  So, given this style/age corollary, the question should be "What kind of suit should I buy, and who makes that the best?"

Without getting too much into suit specifics (which we'll address in upcoming posts next week) we'll give you these general rules:

If you are younger you'll want a fitted waist, natural shoulders, and flat-front trousers.

We aren't against pleats for younger gentlemen-but think they are best for being a bit more forgiving when your waistline expands once you have kids.

If you are looking for your first suit, start with a navy suit- formal enough for all manners of business, casual enough for a dinner, and much classier than plain black. 

If you already have suits, but no navy suit, buy that next. Don't embarrass yourself.

The second suit you own should be of a light gray variety.  Don't go with a wintery flannel though-- lightweight worsted will give you more versatility.

Where do we endorse?

1. Brooks Brothers. From 1865 through 1998 Brooks Brothers didn't make a black suit because President Lincoln was assassinated in a black Brooks Brothers suit.  They invented the 2 button suit in 1961 and the button down collar.  Brooks Brothers offers well made, reasonably priced, tailored clothing.  For a more contemporary fit, check out their Black Fleece collection. www.brooksbrothers.com

2. Hickey Freeman. Freeman was the first clothing manufacturer to use modern assembly-line techniques. Founded in Rochester, New York, it still makes a handsome American suit, although it may be too conservative for some style preferences.  Accounting for this, they recently launched a line called Hickey which offers slim-fitting suits.  www.hickeyfreeman.com

3. Ermenegildo Zegna. Founded in Trivero, Italy in 1910, this suit manufacturer is currently run by the 4th generation Zegna family.  They, in fact, manufacturer suits for labels such as Gucci, Tom Ford, and Yves Saint Laurent.  Their styling is decidedly more fitting and excellent for athletic builds.  www.zegna.com

The motto of chivalry is also the motto of wisdom; to serve all, but love only one. -Honoré de Balzac

This shouldn't even need to be a lesson- but most men don't do it.  There are plenty of excuses that we've heard for the reason why a man doesn't participate in this simple chivalric act, but we're not going to delve too far into those. A gentleman doesn't make excuses.

Opening the door has been a traditional sign of respect to the fairer sex for ages.  By doing this one thing, we can easily take the first step to being a gentleman.  And opening the door doesn't have to just be for a lady. Entering a restaurant with a long group of people behind you? Hold the door for them and smile. 

Being a gentleman is about trying to make life easier for other people-- it's about honestly and sincerely being a nice guy.

A well tied tie is the first serious step in life. -Oscar Wilde

We aren't here to tell you how to tie a tie. There is YouTube for that. We're here to tell you which knot to tie.

Four-In-Hand: This knot is probably what your dad taught you-- five easy steps and done. Some recommend this knot for tall gentlemen.  We do not.  We recommend this knot for narrow collar openings.  A small knot will also give shorter men the perception of being taller, not wider.

Half Windsor: Our favorite. This utilitarian knot can be used with most collar openings and offers a more substantial knot than that of the Four-In-Hand. Some occasions will call for a Windsor, and some for a Four-In-Hand, but when in doubt, we recommend you split the difference.

Windsor: This knot, perfected by Frank Sinatra, and named after the Duke of Windsor, can be powerful when done correctly.  A gentlemen wears this knot with a wide collar opening-- often times a spread collar is required. This knot will serve to widen the body and shorten the height of the individual sporting it.

"Wine. The intellectual part of the meal." - Alexandre Dumas

How many times have you stared at a wine list at a steakhouse, overwhelmed by the brevity of the selection?  You already know to choose a red wine to accompany red meat, pasta dishes with tomato sauces, and most heavy entrees and a white wine to accompany fish, chicken, salads, and pasta dishes with light sauces.  We have been to a steakhouse with a 1,000,000 bottle wine collection (the Vatican has 500,000 bottles)- and weren't overwhelmed. Why?

Simply because a gentleman orders a wine he likes or one that his companion suggests.  If he nor his party has a preference, he asks the waiter for his recommendation.  The waiter, knowing his tip grows on a more expensive recommendation, may not act like a gentleman, and recommend something that the gentleman can not afford.  If this happens, the gentleman selects a wine with a similar vein to the one recommended. He does not feel embarrassed for doing this.

The second and third least expensive wine along with the most expensive wine on the wine list tend to be those which have the greatest "markup" associated with them. Most people don't want to get the "cheapest" bottle, so they select a wine that is a position right above the cheapest wine-- and the restaurant knows this.  The most expensive wine is reserved for those who want to act like hot shots, since the restaurant knows that a show off will buy the most expensive bottle without knowing the first thing about wine.  Their server will laugh behind their back every time it happens.

When the bottle is ordered the waiter will present the bottle and hand the cork to the gentleman.  Do not smell the cork like a neanderthal. Rather, squeze the cork between the top of your middle finger and the palm of your hand.  This will allow you to tell if the cork is too dry- if it is, notify the waiter of the problem. Your waiter will be truly impressed.

Lastly, let the waiter should refill your wine glass. Doing so yourself shows a lack of patience.

In 2005, the NBA enacted a dress code-its fatal flaw? Not outlawing 5-button suits.  Here is what you should be wearing:

The Short Gentleman: Lengthen your perceived image by choosing a one-button jacket with natural shoulders.  The one-button jacket gives a deep V which will give length to your torso-- giving you the perception of being quite a few inches taller.

The Broad Gentleman: This gentleman should wear a two-button jacket. Why? Like the one button jacket, the two-button jacket gives a slimming effect due to the deep V formed between the lapels. 

The Skinny Guy: If you are 6'3" and wear a 28 waist you probably think you can't look dapper in a jacket. But then again, you've probably never tried a double-breasted suit jacket, have you? The button stance and extra cloth inherent in this jacket choice add a natural bulk to your image.

The Big and Tall Guy: A three-button suit will give you the shortest V between the lapels, and thus, not make you seem 7' tall. Make sure the fit is close, but not snug.

We do not claim to be the perfect gentlemen-- nay, those who know us well can point out a kink or two in our chivalric armor.  It is, however, something we daily try to achieve, in business, in style, and in faith.  Daily we'll recommend a fashion suggestion, a trifle of etiquette, or a pithy quote.  Taken as a compilation, and working daily on the few things mentioned, together, we will be considered respectable, honest and sincere gentlemen.