Emperor Nicholas II wearing the costume of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich (1629-1676); the Empress Alexandra Feodorovna in the costume of his first wife Tsarina Maria Ilyinichna Miloslavskaya (1624-1669). They are pictured on the occasion of the 'Costume Ball of 1903'.
In February, 1903, a grand party was held in the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg, followed two days later by a grandiose fancy dress ball, whereby guests dressed in bejeweled 17th-century style costumes, made according to the sketches of the artist Sergei Solomko in cooperation with expert historians. The ball, timed to coincide with the 290th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty, took place at the end of the Nativity Fast.
Nicholas II and Alexandra Feodorovna saw the ball as a first step towards the restoration of the rituals and costumes of the Moscow court, continuing the traditions bequeathed by the glorious ancestors of the Romanov dynasty of the distant pre-Petrine times.
However, the grand event wasn't welcomed by many. Ivan Aleksandrovich Vsevolozhsky (1835-1909), Director of the Imperial Hermitage recalls in his diary"
"The Empress has conceived the idea of giving a costume ball in the Hermitage on February 11… and she wants the audience to be in costumes from the era of Tsar Alexei. However, people are not happy. No one has extra money. Russian costumes cost a lot of money - silk fabric, cloth embroidered with gold and silver, furs are very expensive. Besides, dancing in heavy dresses and fur coats gives little pleasure. Definitely, poor Alexandra Feodorovna has an unlucky hand and a penchant for inappropriate things."
Emperor Nicholas II was dressed in an exact copy of the 17th century clothes, worn by his beloved ancestor, Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich (1629-1676). His costume and shashka (hat) were made from the finest materials and design: “velvet, brocade, silk, satin, leather, sable, gilded thread braid, gold, precious stones, pearls, weaving, braiding, casting, chasing, engravings, carving and enamel.”
The costume sketch for Nicholas II was developed by the Director of the Hermitage, Ivan Vsevolozhsky and the artist of the St. Petersburg Imperial Theaters, Yevgeny Petrovich Ponomarev (1852-1906).
Two types of velvet and gold brocade were ordered from the Supplier of the Imperial Court – the Sapozhnikovs firm. The fancy dress for Emperor Nicholas II, called “The Small Tsar’s Attire”, was sewn by the theatrical costume designer of the Imperial Theaters Ivan Osipovich Kaffi. He was assisted by two dressmakers, whose names are sadly not known today. The tsar’s hat was created in the hat workshop of the brothers “Bruno”, suppliers of the Imperial Court since 1872.
Gathering in the Romanov Gallery on 24th (O.S. 11th) February, guests followed in pairs to the Nicholas Hall of the Winter Palace to give their hosts a “Russian bow”. The party’s central event was a concert in the Hermitage Theater with scenes from Modest Musorgsky’s opera Boris Godunov (key parts were performed by Feodor Chaliapin and Nina Figner), Minkus’ ballet La Bayadère and Tchaikovsky’s ballet Swan Lake directed by Marius Petipa (performed by the prima ballerina Anna Pavlova). The performance was followed by a Russian dance in the Pavilion Hall. Dinner was given in the Spanish, Italian and Flemish Rooms of the Hermitage. Thereupon Their Majesties and the guests proceeded to the Pavilion Hall where the party culminated in dancing.
The second part of the ball took place two nights later, on 26th (O.S. 13th) February: all the guests dressed in 17th-century style costumes, made from designs by the artist Sergey Solomko, in collaboration with historical experts. Among the 390 guests, were 65 “dancing officers” – all dressed as 17th century archers or falconers – and personally appointed by the Empress . Members of the Imperial Family gathered in the Malachite Room, others in the adjacent areas. When ten o’clock struck, the guests went to the Concert Hall to dance. The court orchestra, wearing costumes of trumpet-players of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich performed behind a gilt grating, while 34 round tables were arranged in the Nicholas Hall for dinner. The Concert Hall and Small Dining Room accommodated bars, the Malachite Room, tables with tea and wine.
When dinner was over, the imperial hosts and their guests returned to the Concert Hall to dance till one in the morning. After three specially prepared dances were performed (Russian dance, round dance and plyasovaya), directed by chief ballet director Aistov and Kshesinsky, waltzes, quadrilles and mazurkas were enjoyed. Young officers of Guards Regiments, Horse-guardsmen, Life-guardsmen and Lancers, acted as male partners in the dances. Participants had received some training: at the dress rehearsal held in the Pavilion Hall on 10 February, 1903, ladies wore sarafans and kokoshniks, while men sported dresses of streletses, falconers, etc. Empress Alexandra Feodorovna and Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna acted as “judges”.
Despite all the doubts, disputes and gossip, leading up to the luxurious and memorable event, the ball went wonderfully well. I
Impressed by the ball, Nicholas II wrote in his diary:
February 11th. Tuesday. It [the snow/ ice] continued to melt. I managed to take a walk in the morning. Had breakfast: Ella. Accepted 12 people introducing themselves. Went to Anichkov. Mom and Misha couldn't come tonight because of weakness after the influenza. At 9 o'clock we went to the Romanov Gallery in costumes from the time of Alexei Mikhailovich. From there, with the whole family, past all those invited to the Hermitage. We stopped in a large room and let the company pass by us in pairs. Then we went to the theater. The hall, filled with ancient Russian people, looked very beautiful. After dinner there was a small cotillion, during which 12 couples danced a Russian dance. Everything turned out very well and ended in 2 1⁄2. We drank tea at home with D. Sergey and Ella.
February 13th. Thursday. <<...>> At 9:30 a ball in costumes from the time of Alexei Mikhailovich began in the Concert hall - a repetition of the previous one for Mom. Misha also came. The ball was fun, beautiful and friendly. The Russian dance was very successful. We had dinner in the Nikolayev Hall, but without palm trees. A Slavic choir was singing there. We returned home at 2:30 hours.
The Winter Palace's commandant, Major General Vladimir Nikolaevich Voeikov noted:
“The impression was fabulous – from the mass of old national costumes, richly decorated with rare furs, magnificent diamonds, pearls and semi-precious stones, mostly in old frames. On this day, family jewels appeared in such an abundance that exceeded all expectations.”
Grand Duke Alexander 'Sandro' Mikhailovich recalled this event as "the last impressive ball in the history of the empire" ... [but] the new and hostile Russia looked through the large windows of the palace... while we danced, the workers were on strike, and the clouds in the Far East hung dangerously low.
Empress Alexandra's sister, Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna, also took part in the grand Ball and made a pencil sketch of her sister's gala dress:
After the balls of 11th and 13th February, 1903, the Empress commissioned the best photographers of St. Petersburg: L. Levitsky, D.M. Asikritov, D.S. Zdobnov, Yves. Voino-Oransky, F.G. Boasson, E.L. Mrozovskaya and many others, to take individual and collective photographs of the participants in their costumes.
In 1904, a limited edition album containing the photographs was released, consisting of ten large-format files (folders). 21 heliogravures and 174 phototypes. The album was sold primarily among the participants of the ball, and the proceeds from the sale went to charity.
The 1903 Bal, remains the most celebrated festivity arranged in St. Petersburg during the reign of Emperor Nicholas II (1894-1917). More than a century later, it remains an event of an enduring historical significance. [x]
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