The World of TT Bikes

Its been like forever...but that knack/knock clicking sound I am getting recently on my rides could not be properly explained to my bicycle fitter, nor replicated in the workshop...at least not  until I replaced my set of tires of the B16.

Apparently, the pressured joint of the inner tube pin against the rim was the culprit, causing it to shift and yank as I adopt the aero position on the front wheel. Chain Reaction recommended the Continental GT tires and I quickly ordered a pair and replaced them.

An open secret to most experienced riders involves the knowledge of staying away from certain gear ratio when riding a road bicycle. The definition of a low gear typically imply the use of the biggest chainring in front and the smallest-diameter gear at the back.

This configuration gives rider minimal torque but fastest, achievable speed on the road.  In this same position, you would notice that the chain actually remains parallel to the frame front to back. But if a rider is to proceed to flick his back gear to the biggest gear set (with the chain in front remaining on the biggest chainring), he would have now placed the chain in a stretched setup, all while actualizing that the chain is now connected in a slanted (or diagonal) axis between the front and back gears!

This inevitably put the chain and gears in an "unnatural" position, introducing frictions and rubbing and noise when you pedal. Though its still possible to peddle in this position, it is not a recommended position.

Again, the casual riders all begin with what they can leverage without spending an extra dime. We've all been there and done that. And that same principle applies to the day when you felt the urge to measure how good a rider you've become.

Some folks resort to a smartphone with a free GPS application (e.g. Strava), while some others splurge on a bike computer that links a string of sensors together to read cadence, heart rate, speed and distance.

Now, I can still recall the use of a flat pedal that typically comes free with a new bike purchase. They are alright and gives you a comfortable break-in period with your new bicycle. But soon, they became a reason for it to be replaced, as you seek to increase the power you can transfer to the chainring.

You became rather hesitant, having then discovered that a pair of bike shoe will both require a set of new compatible cleats and pedals! And thats where most cyclists digress into using toe clips.

With the proliferation of riding clubs everywhere around us, you'd be spoilt for choices to pick one that you are comfortable to start your maiden ride with a group!

Most rides begin in the wee hours of the day, may it be scheduled on a weekday or weekend. So make sure to give yourself ample time to get to the starting point. A few friendly handshakes and smiles would surely break the newbie ice among the pack.

The first ride distance should be around 25-30 miles, across a mixture of climbs, plains and urban areas. This will put your bike to a warmup phase where any loose ends will quickly surface. Aches and discomfort are often the resultant of a lack of attention to spend good time to fit the bike to you after the purchase. Pace the ride not with the leading pack but with what your muscle can pull. Humility should be your middle name for the duration of the ride.

Pay attention especially to other road users and your respect for them too. Recklessness due to complacency always get cyclists into deep trouble.

Your first ride will also be one that allows you to accustom your body to condition of the road that mark the route. Depending on the stiffness of your ride (TT bikes being much stiffer), butt numbs can be circumvented with regular red-light stops. Keep your body hydrated and simply enjoy the route.

Its something that does not weigh much but becomes an invaluable saver on longer rides.

Overview

Frame: Felt HM Modular Carbon Fiber Frame with 3KP Finish. Forged Horizontal Dropouts Fork: Felt 3.3 UHM Aero carbon fiber Components: FSA, Shimano Dura Ace/105, 20 speed; Felt Aero basebar w/ ƒ bend extensions Wheelset: Felt TTR4, 30mm deep aero rims, 24H front, 28H rear Finish: Gloss Black & Matte Black Sizes: 650c x 48 & 50cm, 700c x 52, 54, 56, 58, 60cm Weight: 20.72 pounds MSRP: $2299

Apart from conventional pedals (aka flat or platform pedal) we get for free with the purchase of a bicycle, you'd would eventually want a more efficient pedal stroke with your bicycle, something that allows lesser loss of power with each stroke, and one which encourage "back pull".

Now, I have known of road bikers accomplishing the above objective with the use of a mountain bike SPD (Shimano Pedaling Dynamics) pedal on their TT/Road bike. This move is supported with the fact you can clip your shoes on either side of each pedal, unlike conventional road bike SPD pedal which only allow single-side shoe latching.

- Bayonet Alloy TT/Tri Handlebar

- Ultra fast wind tunnel perfected design

- 7005 SuperLite Alloy Base / Extensions

- Two positions offering 2cm of base bar hand position

- Three position set-up for extensions

- Internal brake cable routing

- 26,0mm diameter with 31,8mm adaptors

With preference over conventional start-stop road conditions in most cosmopolitan cities, the joy of riding uninhibited over PCN (Park Connector Network) across the island is where I can easily achieve an average 20mph pace.

Some say that would be a tad too sloppy for TT riders but the whole idea when you begin riding an aero bike is to enjoy a consistent ride that does not wear you down. Nevertheless, it must be, at times, at a pace that hurt your muscle, and causes you to improve over the weeks.

Coupled with recovery days, you will gradually climb beyond 20mph to the 30mph with faithful daily training on the road.

Its not so much of a personal preference we are talking about here but of safety, whenever folks ask me about my opinion with regard to riding with a cap or a helmet or both.

Now, I do wear a cap out of comfort when I test-run a new bicycle along certain well-timed stretch of car-free tarmac. Its also pure fun to do away with my helmet on such casual rides. It's also then when I am not compelled to push myself against a time clock or such that my cap is on. And most importantly, it's also because I am confident in running that same stretch over hundreds of times with a cap. Its what racer or car enthusiasts call the Nürburgring to me.

I will only wear a cap too when I am recovering my form on car-free tarmacs. It makes recovery so much more pleasant.

Road caps offer basic shade from the sun and a cool head to the rider. Its advantage simple ends there. Whereas a protective helmet can protect you against some serious head injury should a crash occur.