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Oregon has announced the release of the SpeedCut Nano cutting system, the first .325” Low Profile

cutting system designed to increase cutting speed and extend runtimes on battery-powered and compact light-weight gas chainsaws (20-38 cc).

The innovative cutting system features a new saw chain, guide bar, and sprocket to optimize the performance of chainsaws in the 1 to 3 HP range. The increased efficiency of the SpeedCut Nano cutting system also provides battery saw users with up to 20% more cuts on a single charge. For this power range, the SpeedCut Nano 80TXL saw chain provides greater productivity for landscape professionals.

“Through close feedback from professional users in the field, we identified an opportunity for an all-new cutting system. From this input, SpeedCut Nano was engineered from the ground up to meet the demands of arborists’ top-handle applications and property owners seeking top performance,” said Derek Vlcko, Global Business Segment Director – Forestry at Blount International. “With SpeedCut Nano, cutting efficiency is increased by as much as 20% in bucking and 90% in boring, ensuring no one will be left stalled in the cut.”

Other features of the SpeedCut Nano cutting system include:

Multi-axis grind technology for exceptionally clean cuts.

Low-kickback chain with all-weather durability.

A corresponding guide bar with high-strength body and performance-driven nose components.

Small-radius sprocket nose built to exact tolerances to buck, bore and trim efficiently.

LubriTec

lubrication system to keep saw chain and the guide bar oiled, reducing friction and wear.

SpeedCut Nano 80TXL saw chain will be available for Husqvarna®, STIHL®, and ECHO® battery and gas applications starting in early summer of 2020.

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The summer issue of Turf magazine puts a focus on Tree Care Equipment. Because we can’t fit everything on the printed page, here’s a sneak peek at other introductions.

337-13HC Stump Grinder From Dosko

Dosko’s 337-13HC Stump Grinder is powered by a 389cc Honda GX engine with oil shutdown sensor and a Cyclone air filter having an inner vent carburetor, to keep the air/fuel ratio more constant and more than doubles the service interval for air filter maintenance. The direct belt drive features a 3-groove power band with idler bearing belt tensioners which delivers 2,200 RPM to the cutter wheel. The Stump Grinder has five-different handlebar positions to accommodate any user. Built for easy transportation, the 337-13HC Stump Grinder measures in at 58”L x 32”W x 51”H, making it able to pass through gates. An optional tow package is available to easily attach and detach from your vehicle.

MS 151 T C-E Lightweight Professional Chain Saw From STIHL

Designed for professional, in-tree use, the STIHL MS 151 T C-E top-handle professional chain saw is lightweight, compact and designed for maximum maneuverability for in-tree cutting. The MS 151 T C-E is ideal for the pruning and trimming of trees.

MS 194 T Also From STIHL

With its exceptional power-to-weight ratio, the MS 194 T top-handle chain saw packs professional-grade performance into a compact and lightweight body. Its efficient, low-emission engine delivers fuel economy, allowing users to save money on gas and save time on refueling.

The new STIHL MS 194 T top-handle chain saw maintains the performance of the STIHL MS 193 T, with enhanced features and benefits designed specifically for tree care professionals.

Exceptional power-to-weight ratio providing the power to get the job done, with reduced user fatigue.*

Low-emissions engine means fuel efficiency, so users can spend more time cutting and less time (and money) refueling.

STIHL anti-vibration system reduces vibration while providing excellent handling, helping to reduce operator fatigue.For more Tree Care Equipment, see the Summer edition of Turf magazine. To receive your free subscription, click here.

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A tree from the property of historic Cave Hill Cemetery and Arboretum in Louisville will be moved into the Kentucky Exposition Center’s Freedom Hall for in-tree climbing demonstrations at GIE+EXPO. After last year’s success, Climb Trees: Expand Your Horizons, presented by Davey Tree in collaboration with The Women’s Tree Climbing Workshop, and sponsored by STIHL, is back with an expanded lineup for 2020.

As an Active Cemetery, and a Level II Accredited Arboretum through The Morton Arboretum’s ArbNet Program, Cave Hill constantly monitors and cares for their canopy. Each year the cemetery’s team of ISA Certified Arborist and TRAQ (Tree Risk Assessment Qualification) credential holders identifies trees that have died, are in decline, or pose a risk to persons or property. Those identified are then removed and, whenever possible, replaced with healthy young specimens.

“This process allows us to donate a tree that is scheduled to be removed,” said Gwen Mooney, President & CEO of Cave Hill. “Davey graciously helps with the removal and transport process. The tree slated for removal now gets to be used in an educational environment showing best management practices with an emphasis on safety.”

The Kentucky Exposition Center offers a unique opportunity for climbing demonstrations indoors. Freedom Hall’s ceiling height is over 60 feet and stadium-like seating, coupled with a Jumbotron video display, gives spectators an up-close view of the climbers in action.

Eight in-tree demonstrations throughout the day Wednesday-Friday, October 21-23, will cover a wide range of topics, including tie-in points, the use of drones, fundamentals of pruning cuts, and static vs dynamic rigging. These sessions are included with trade show registration.

GIE+EXPO will be held October 21-23 in Louisville, KY. GIE+EXPO is sponsored by the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI), National Association of Landscape Professionals (NALP), and Professional Grounds Management Society (PGMS).

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Highlighting its 20 years as a leader in plant health, Arborjet is offering a special promotion of its flagship product — the original TREE-äge®, which revolutionized the tree care industry. This product was designed to protect trees from Emerald Ash Borer and many other invasive insects, using a method that limits environmental impact.

“I can remember back in 2009 when TREE-äge was best described as a silver bullet. At the time, we didn’t realize how we completely changed the tree care industry! We think it’s only fitting as a thank you to more than 5,000 service providers and their customers that we make the leading process of tree injection even more affordable,” says Arborjet President and CEO, Russ Davis.

Through decades of research, field studies, and practical applications on millions of trees, TREE-äge insecticide has been proven to be highly effective against listed pests Emerald Ash Borer, Pine Bark Beetles, Gypsy Moth, and more.

This treatment/method from Arborjet:

Injects and seals the patented formulation directly into a tree’s vascular system. Nothing is placed in the soil or into the air.

Allows a tree to be treated for over 30 years if needed, before the cost is equal to that of removing and replacing a tree. Most cities retreat every 2-3 years.

Has allowed major cities like Chicago, Milwaukee, and Rochester to save their trees for a cost of less than $50 per tree.

Saves mature ash trees, which reduces energy costs and stormwater runoff, while maintaining property values for homeowners.

Offers long residual activity backed by years of research and independent university studies

Works with all Arborjet equipment

“We’re pleased the TREE-äge family has grown and is credited for saving millions of trees in an environmentally friendly way. We are proud to select the original TREE-äge to celebrate Arborjet’s 20th anniversary, and our legacy of providing the highest quality products and services in the industry,” adds Davis.

Based in Woburn, MA, Arborjet Inc. is the leading plant health care company, which for 20 years has focused on providing the most effective formulations and delivery systems to protect trees, shrubs, and plants from a wide variety of insect, disease, and nutritional concerns. For further information, visit https://ift.tt/lbrnFI3.

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Take a look at this assortment of tree care equipment that can improve your professional lawn care and landscaping services.

The XCU08Z From Makita

Makita is meeting the demand for cordless alternatives to gas-powered outdoor power equipment with an expanding line of cordless OPE, including the 18V X2 LXT® (36V) Cordless 14″ Top Handle Chain Saw, Tool Only (model XCU08Z). With zero emissions, lower noise, and less maintenance than gas-powered chain saws, the XCU08Z is a solution for cutting and trimming applications. The compact top-handle design makes it ideal for the professional tree care industry. Powered by two 18V LXT® batteries (sold separately) for maximum power, speed, and run-time, the XCU08Z is easy to start by simply loading the 18V LXT® Lithium-Ion Batteries and powering on. The XCU08Z has a variable speed trigger and high chain speed (0-3,940 FPM) for increased cutting speed, with torque boost mode for cutting dense material. Other features include adjustable automatic chain lubrication, built-on lock-off lever to help prevent the chain from accidentally engaging, an electric brake for maximum productivity, and more.

TreeDiaper® From Zynnovation

TreeDiaper is a patented, multifunctional plant protection system featuring: slow-releasing irrigation; auto-recharging with rain or snow precipitation; salt damage mitigation; weed control; and extreme weather protections. Pellets inside the tree diaper absorb rain or irrigation water; then slowly release water back to the plant when needed, while reducing runoff. In a 2013 field trial on road median trees, those with TreeDiaper lived, while those with watering bags died. Additionally, a 2014 field trial of TreeDiaper demonstrated successful tree planting establishment in parks in July without manual watering. TreeDiaper is a technology that makes the best use of stormwater, and stabilizes soil moisture. Virtually maintenance free, it also helps with root protection and weed control and is especially beneficial in sloped sites or engineered soils.

13-21T-13H Brush Chipper From Dosko

The Dosko 13-21T-13H Brush Chipper is a portable brush chipper powered by a 389cc GX Honda engine, making it possible to shred even the toughest brush. This unit boasts a 5.5″ x 5″ infeed opening and a 19″ x 19″ sized hopper. The 13-21T-13H Brush Chipper has a 4″ capacity intake. Built for easy transportation, the Dosko Brush Chipper is built with fold-down handles and 15″ tall tires. Coming in at 44″L x 32″W x 60″H, this unit was engineered with residential use in mind; it will easily fit through gates. An optional package is available to tow the Chipper behind a lawn/garden tractor, ATV, or UTV. Create your own mulch using the Dosko 13-21T-13H Brush Chipper’s double-edge, reversible knife. Make quick work of unsightly brush with the 6 ½”L x 2 ¼”W x 3/8″D blade and speeds up to 2,274 RPM. If the blade ever gets dull, it can easily be replaced due to the Brush Chipper’s easy-access components that ensure routine maintenance is quick and easy. Dosko also offers the 337-13HC Stump Grinder. Read about it in Get Equipped PREVIEW: Tree Care Equipment.

550XP® Mark II Chainsaw From Husqvarna

As part of Husqvarna’s next generation of chainsaws, the 550XP® Mark II is a 50cc professional chainsaw with best in class cutting that delivers maximum power for faster and more efficient cuts. Weighing only 11.7 pounds, the chainsaw features a slimmer, user-centric design for easier handling. Its well-balanced saw body with low gyroscopic forces enables users to work longer without tiring, and the ergonomically designed handles provide a safe and comfortable grip. It is ideal for felling, limbing, removals, or cross cutting of small and mid-sized trees. The 550XP® Mark II’s cooling capacity has been improved by 13% to increase endurance in tough conditions. It features a redesigned air filter with a higher capacity and improved sealing and an upgraded version of Air Injection

. The chainsaw is also equipped with a new optimized version of AutoTune

, Husqvarna’s ignition module software, and carburetor calibration. Additional features include Low Vib®, X-Torq®, retained bar nuts, X-Force bar, X-Cut® chain, outboard clutch, side-mounted chain tensioning, and visible fuel levels. It is backed by Husqvarna’s one-year professional product warranty and qualifies for Husqvarna’s Crown Commitment program, which guarantees a full refund or store credit if the product is returned within seven days of purchase.

MS 194 C-E Chain Saw From STIHL

The MS 194 C-E chain saw is the newest addition to the line up of STIHL chain saws. STIHL took a top-rated saw and added greater displacement, more power, more torque, and improved cutting performance than the previous model — without adding weight. The new STIHL MS 194 C-E maintains the performance of the MS 193 C-E, with enhanced features and benefits including: exceptional power-to-weight ratio providing the power to get the job done with reduced user fatigue; a low-emissions engine for fuel efficiency, so users can spend more time cutting and less time, and money, refueling; and a STIHL Easy2Start

system that eliminates the need for a strong pull of the starting cord. Find out about two other new chainsaws from STIHL in Get Equipped PREVIEW: Tree Care Equipment.

Want to talk about equipment and more with fellow lawn care and landscape professionals? Join the discussions in the Equipment Forums at www.expired-link.com.

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August is a tough month for many ornamentals, and it’s getting worse. Record breaking heat and drought conditions are putting the health of landscape plantings at risk more than ever before. Once stressed, plants become more susceptible to a host of other pests and diseases, which can be costly or troublesome to abate. Here are perspectives on recognizing and addressing summer plant stress from experts in three different states: Dr. Sharon Douglas from The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station; Mike Hrivnak, head agronomist with Canopy Lawn Care in Cary, NC; and Peyton Ellas, owner of Quercus Landscape Design in Springville, CA.

Why Can It Be Hard To Tell If A Plant Stressed?

Douglas: Symptoms of drought manifest in different ways depending on the plant species and the severity of the water deficit. One important aspect of drought is that the symptoms are often not evident in the top of the tree or shrub until some time after the event has occurred—even as much as one to two years later!

Hrivnak: Often you may not realize some plant varieties are experiencing heat or drought stress until it’s too late. Why? Because when many bushes or shrubs are desiccated, they still look green. The gardenia is a good example. It appears to hold its color well, even if it has received too much sun or too little water. However, as soon as it’s watered, it begins to turn brown and wilt.

Ellas: Most signs are not apparent immediately; rather, it may take a few days to a few months. With some plants, stress symptoms are visible only after weather has cooled down and the plant is able to “take stock,” shed dead cells, and start to regrow.

What Are Visible Symptoms?

Hrivnak: Some ornamental tree and shrub varieties may show more obvious signs of heat stress. Hollies are fairly heat and sun tolerant, but when stressed, will begin to drop their leaves. Most evergreens also do well in the sun, but quickly begin molting when they receive too much heat and too little water.

Douglas: Obvious symptoms in trees and shrubs include loss of turgor in needles and leaves, drooping, wilting, yellowing, premature leaf or needle drop, bark cracks, and twig and branch dieback. Leaves on deciduous trees often develop a marginal scorch and interveinal necrosis, whereas needles on evergreens turn brown at the tips. Trees and shrubs can also exhibit general thinning of the canopy, poor growth, and stunting. In extreme cases, drought can result in plant death.

Ellas: Most of our ornamental plants are not adapted to high temperatures. In mild cases, heat stress will limit flowering and cause leaf tip browning, or older leaves will turn brown and fall off. In severe cases it will cause symptoms ranging from sunburn to leaf and twig death.

Why Do Landscape Plants Die?

Ellas: Most plant stress research is done for agricultural crops, so there are still a lot of questions about how high heat, in both soil and air, affects many ornamental plant species, especially those popular in the last five years or so. In many cases, we are still left with making something of an educated guess on whether or not our plant is suffering from 1) too little water; or 2) too much water; or 3) heat stress. But as our climate continues to warm, with extreme high temperatures—especially at night—becoming more common, we will want to consider heat stress as a factor in our gardens, related to, but distinct from added water.

Check your plants in the early morning. If they look better in the morning, and worse later in the day, the problem is most likely heat stress rather than a watering issue. A good example from the vegetable garden is summer squash. In ornamental plants, differences in geraniums and sages are fairly easy to see.

There four kinds of heat stress to plants.

High daytime air temperatures is probably the easiest for plants to recover from as long as they are adequately watered. But while overwatering can help species adapted to high water use deal with heat stress, it encourages root and crown rot in low and moderate-water-use plants, which can be fatal.

High nighttime air temperatures is harder to overcome because it affects plants’ ability to take in and release water and gases, and thus limits photosynthesis, needed for survival.

High soil temperatures. Soil temps rise and fall, but more gradually and in a delayed fashion, as air temperatures change. Usually, soil temperatures at common root depth (20″) is about 20˚cooler than air temperatures. Most plants grow best in soil temperatures of 65˚ to 75˚F. In our area of CA in July and August, average soil temperatures can be 85˚F. Even in September, the average soil temperature is 80˚F or above.

All of the above, plus wind (even fairly light but steady), is the worst kind of heat stress. Most plants don’t do much more than survive during this phase. Even cacti might turn to mush and collapse, as they cannot open their stomates to transpire and cool themselves.

Douglas: Symptoms of drought can develop on a wide range of deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. It can be especially severe on seedlings and new transplants because their roots occupy the uppermost layers of soil which dry rapidly. In addition, recent transplants typically lose important feeder roots during the transplant process. For example, balled and burlapped trees are estimated to contain only 5% to 20% of their original root mass after digging. For container-grown ornamentals, the growth medium can be a key factor—many soilless mixes used for container stock are highly porous, dry out very quickly, and are very difficult to rewet. This situation creates moisture stress in the rootball regardless of water availability in surrounding soil. This problem often continues until the roots grow beyond the rootball. Contrary to popular opinion, it often takes woody transplants two years to become completely established in a new site. Thus, these plants should be given extra care and attention during periods of drought.

A shrub dying of summer heat stress. (Photo: Canopy Lawn Care)

Combatting Heat & Drought

While there’s no cure, effects of summer stress can be minimized by the following:

Know Plant Tolerance.

Douglas: Select native plants or match species to conditions: Drought-sensitive (dogwood, ash, birch) versus drought-tolerant (most pines, junipers, and larch).

Ellas: Now that we’re planting “climate right” and “low-water-use” plants, they should look great all the time, right? All plants have a range of temperatures in which they thrive, based on the climate they evolved in. However, most plants have tolerance outside their preferred range. This is especially true of popular landscape plants. But tolerance is a range from barely surviving to looking okay, but not spectacular.

Throw Shade.

Douglas: Select the appropriate site and follow good planting practices: Drought stress can magnify even subtle improper planting practices (planting too deep, too shallow, etc). When planting a tree, try to anticipate water needs at maturity.

Hrivnak: Bushes and shrubs are all too commonly planted in the wrong location. Make sure you pay attention to which areas of your landscape receive the most sun. Which areas remain shaded all day? Which areas receive part sun and part shade?

Ellas: Once the weather cools, move the plant to a shadier location, or plant a screening tree or shrub on the south side of a prized plant. This doesn’t work for all plants, but the small reduction in sunlight and high temperatures might help plants that don’t thrive with summer watering.

Mulch Matters.

Douglas: Properly applied mulches can be very helpful to maintain soil moisture. Mulches are usually applied 1-3″ thick and spread evenly out to the drip line of the tree. It is also important to keep the mulch 6-12″ away from the trunk. Mulches applied too thickly or too close to the tree base (in a “volcano” or “pyramid” style) can be harmful.

Ellas: Use organic mulch to regulate soil temperatures, especially on cooler climate plants. Popular stone mulches like cobbles and decomposed granite can significantly raise air and soil temperatures around plants, or prevent temperatures from cooling off enough at night. Rock mulches are fine for desert-adapted species, but many succulents aren’t true desert plants and shrivel up in summer heat, even in shade, when surrounded by rock. Consider living ground covers, even vines, which act as a cooling mechanism.

Water Smart.

Douglas: Water in periods of low soil moisture. Trees and shrubs require approximately one inch of water per week. Special attention to young trees is important. For most soil types, water is best applied at one time as a slow, deep soaking of the entire root zone to a depth of approximately 12-18″. The length of time required to deep-water will vary depending on soil type and water pressure: clay requires more time than sand. Frequent, light, surface watering will not help and can actually cause harm by promoting surface root growth. A deep soaking just before fall ground freeze will also help.

Hrivnak: Be sure to water plants appropriately. Don’t overwater. Many ornamentals and shrubs are susceptible to root rot. Overwatering in an attempt to compensate for heat stress can damage root systems. A good rule of thumb is to water plants at the same time you’re watering the lawn, which is convenient for landscapers.

Ellas: Make sure soil is well hydrated, but not saturated, especially below 20″, in advance of a heat wave. Then avoid overwatering the soil surface during the heat wave. In CA, if ceanothus, manzanita, sage, or buckwheat have entire brown branches, but others look healthy, it’s probably root rot. If the plant is losing leaves or drying out uniformly, another deep soaking may help. Also, hose plants off every three to five days during a heat wave, ideally in the evening or early morning when there’s no breeze. This temporary cooling can help a plant go from barely surviving to tolerating well. Plus it keeps mites and pests away. This is hand hosing and if no water hits the ground, that’s okay and even preferable for some plants. In CA, deep water plants and trees year round.

Pruning Prudence.

Douglas: Eventually you’ll want to prune dead or weakened tissues to avoid secondary problems.

Ellas: Prune off dead plant material after the heat wave, not during. Try to tolerate a little brown or wilted leaves while your plants are experiencing heat stress. Every cut is a wound, which is yet another added stress.

Feed Or Not?

Douglas: Maintain plant vigor by following good cultural practices: It is generally accepted that trees under stress should not be fertilized. However, applications of biostimulants, mycorrhizae, or similar compounds can be beneficial and can help to stimulate root growth and regeneration.

Dr. Douglas is an Emeritus Scientist with the Department of Plant Pathology and Ecology at the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station in New Haven, CT.

Ellas is the owner of Quercus Landscape Design, a design & build firm specializing in California native plant based landscapes in the Southern Sierra, southern Central Valley, and inland CA. Her book, Gardening with California Native Plants, was released in January of 2019.

Hrivnak is head agronomist with Canopy Lawn Care in Cary, NC. A graduate of North Carolina State University’s Agronomy and Turfgrass Management program, he has more than 20 years of turfgrass management and knowledge. Hrivnak is a North Carolina Certified Turfgrass Professional, a Certified Sports Field Manager, and a board member on the Turfgrass Council of North Carolina.

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As Hurricane Isaias wreaks havoc on the Eastern Seaboard, landscapers know that once the dust settles, they’ll be involved in clean-up activities on client properties. And while some practices are cut and dry, tree evaluation can be a tougher issue. Since not all trees damaged in storms need to be removed, how can you tell if an affected tree can be restored?

Can It Be Saved?

According to the downloadable Tree Care Kit from Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, the good news is that “trees have an amazing ability to recover from storm damage.” Here are areas they say to assess:

Are major limbs broken? If most of the main branches are gone, the tree may have little chance of surviving.

Has the leader (the main upward-trending branch on most trees) been lost? In species where a leader is important to upward growth or a desirable appearance, saving the tree may have to be a judgment call. The tree may live without its leader, but at best it would be a stunted or deformed version of the original.

Is at least 50% of the tree’s crown still intact? This is a good rule of thumb on tree survivability.

How big are the wounds where branches have been broken or bark has been damaged? The larger the wound is in relation to the size of the limb, the less likely it is to heal, leaving the tree vulnerable to disease and pests. A 2″ to 3″ wound on a 12″ diameter limb will seal over with new bark within a couple of years.

Are there remaining branches that can form a new branch structure?

Being based in Florida, Gardening Solutions, a program of the University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) has a lot of hurricane-specific advice. They say for a tree to be a good candidate for restoration, roots should not be exposed or lifted out of the soil. Additionally, there should not be cracks in the tree’s major limbs or trunk. In other words, the tree should not have multiple trunks, co-dominant stems, bark inclusions (weak unions between major branches and the trunk), or large amounts of decayed wood.

Photo: Dr. Edward Gilman, UF/IFAS

According to UF/IFAS, the following signs should tell you if it’s possible for a hurricane-damaged tree to be restored:

The canopy is defoliated or damaged, but there are still lots of branches. Trees that lose their leaves or break small canopy branches in a hurricane are usually not dead. New foliage may appear by the following spring. A tree that is decay-resistant (especially impervious to the spread of fungal organisms following an injury) can lose up to ¾ of its small canopy branches and still recover. Trees flooded with salt water during a storm will also often lose their leaves. These should be irrigated with fresh water if possible soon after the storm to wash salts through the soil.

Only small branches are dead or broken. Trees with broken branches less than 4″ in diameter can easily be pruned and have a good chance of recovering.

Some major limbs are broken, but it’s a decay-resistant species. Some species of trees are more decay-resistant than others. Health specimens of decay-resistant species can be restored even with some major branch breakage and could recover well after a hurricane. Younger trees with a diameter of less than 10″ are easier to restore than older, larger trees.

A leaning or fallen tree is small. Only trees that were recently planted or have a trunk diameter smaller than 4″ should be staked or replanted if they have fallen over during a storm. To replant, cut jagged or torn roots and keep them moist. After planting, water with three gallons per inch of trunk diameter, three times per week.

Restoring a Palm Tree

Bismarckia nobilis, Silver Select Bismarck palm. Photo: Chris Runge, Landscape Concepts

Those in zones with palms know they grow differently from other trees, so restoring a storm-damaged palm takes careful work. Follow these guidelines from UF/IFAS to get a palm back to optimal health:

Remove hanging or dead fronds. Dead fronds are entirely yellow or brown in color. These could fall and hit a person or damage property.

Remove fronds that cover the bud. Broken fronds crossing the top of the palm can prevent the growth of new fronds that will restore the canopy.

Leave any bent, green fronds (even if they have yellow or brown tips) that are still attached to the tree, so long as they are not covering the bud. These fronds will help the palm store energy until new foliage emerges. Then you can remove the bent fronds.

Establish a fertilization program to correct nutrient deficiencies. When palm fronds that are still alive and attached show severe yellowing, it’s a sign that the palm may lack nutrients such as potassium or magnesium. Do not remove these yellowed fronds; they are still providing energy for the tree. Instead, establish a regular fertilization regime specific to palms.

For pictures and more tips on treating damaged and broken trees, visit the UF Landscape Plants site from Dr. Edward F. Gilman, Ph.D. Professor Emeritus, Environmental Horticulture.

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We often promote shrub pruning in winter during the dormant season when its easier to see the branching structure. Indeed, winter is a great time to undertake this task. However, you can prune shrubs year-round. Summer is as good a time as any as long as you pay attention to the particular needs of the species and keep your landscape goals in mind.

Sometimes, weather or other priorities make pruning challenging during the winter.  Not to worry. Here are some helpful tips on breaking the rules when it comes to summer shrub pruning.

Reasons to Prune

One of the most common goals of shrub pruning is to manage size. You can trim both new and old growth to maintain the plant at an optimal size. Using hand pruners, you can remove the desired amount of current and previous season’s growth. However, it’s important to keep in mind the mature size and natural shape of the plant. During the initial planting, leave plenty of room for shrubs to grow to full size. This will help ensure you do not over prune as the plant grows. Be sure to hold off on any major structural pruning until the dormant season.

Maintenance pruning removes old branches and stems that do not flower well. It also includes eliminating broken, dead or dying branches. You can trim these at any time, ongoing as needed. In fact, during summer, it’s easier to spot defective branches that have not leafed out properly.

Selective thinning when shrubs become too dense improves light and air circulation. This promotes interior growth for a healthier plant with a natural appearance.

Best Time for Shrub Pruning

Trim shrubs in the summer as soon as possible after flowering to favor as many of next year’s flower buds as possible. The later into the summer pruning is done, the more gentle it should be to preserve as many flower buds as possible. Being judicious in later summer also limits the probability of winter injury on new growth that might not be adequately hardened off.

That said however, the worst that usually happens when pruning too late is that flowers are lost for a growing season. While there’s obviously a visual impact with reduced flowering, the plant itself won’t be harmed. The only exception is when winter injury occurs, which depends on many factors. The species and its susceptibility to cold plays a big role. Note that winter injury does not often kill entire, established plants.

The same principles apply to sheared hedge shrubs.  Shearing is usually undesirable for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is that late-season shearing tends to encourage tender new growth that will not have time to harden off.  However, the winter injury that might result is rarely fatal to the entire plant.

In sum, if your shrubs really need the pruning, it’s probably be better to do it in summer than not at all and accept the small risks that entails.

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On July 13, Washington, D.C. hit its 17th consecutive day above 90 degrees. The following week was no better with a heat advisory in effect from Maine to South Carolina. Casey Trees, a D.C. based nonprofit committed to restoring, enhancing, and protecting the tree canopy of the nation’s capital, says air temperatures in cities, particularly after sunset, can be as much as 22˚ F warmer than the air in neighboring, less developed regions. This urban heat island effect, as landscapers know, is driven by asphalt, concrete, and other hardscapes that retain and amplify heat. But more than just being uncomfortable, excessive heat is a serious health risk that often disproportionately affects those in underserved neighborhoods with less tree canopy.

But it’s not just humans who feel the ill effects. According to Casey, urban heat islands have a wide-ranging and deadly set of impacts on the environment:

Urban heat islands increase energy demand for cooling. During extreme heat events, which are exacerbated by urban heat islands, the demand for cooling can overload systems and may result in brownouts or blackouts to avoid power outages.

Companies that supply electricity typically rely on fossil fuel power plants to meet much of this demand, which in turn leads to an increase in air pollutants and greenhouse gas emissions.

High pavement and rooftop surface temperatures can heat stormwater runoff. This heated stormwater drains into storm sewers and can raise water temperatures as it is released into waterways, which can be deadly for aquatic animals and organisms.

Made In The Shade

As many know, strategically located large canopy trees can do much to mitigate the effects of urban heat islands. But what types of trees make the best choices? Here are five recommendations from Casey (check your USDA Plant Hardiness Zone):

Overcup Oak

Overcup Oak. With its straight trunk and round top, the Overcup Oak is a relatively unknown small to medium-sized shade tree that fits well into many small yards. The Overcup Oak has brilliant reddish or gray-brown bark and displays leathery dark green leaves in summer. The overcup gets its name from its shaggy, ornate acorn cap – and the acorns are highly valued by wildlife. This tree needs full sun and will reach approximately 30 feet in height in 40 years. Zones 5 to 9.

American Beech

American Beech. The American beech is an iconic, sturdy shade tree with smooth, blue-hued bark. It produces small (beech) nuts in a showy pod that are valued by wildlife and visually unique. It’s dark green leaves turn a beautiful yellow in fall. A slow grower, American Beech usually reaches 50’ tall and 30’ wide in about 50 years. Beech does well in shade or partial shade, but can also be planted in full sun. Zones 4 to 9.

Southern Magnolia

Southern Magnolia. This elegant tree has large fragrant flowers that bloom from March to June, striking seed pods that drop bright red seeds in the fall, and bold, beautiful leaves. Southern magnolias are a much sought-after, durable evergreen tree. Southern magnolias reach approximately 50 feet in height in about 50 years. It thrives in full sun or partial shade. Zones 6 t0 10.

Catalpa

Catalpa. A showy medium-sized shade tree is often known as “cigar trees,” Catalpas are typically planted for its springtime show of large, white, orchid-shaped flowers from which develop slender, long green seedpods that darken and drop in fall. At home in most soils and moisture regimes, the Catalpa is a tough urban tree. Catalpas will thrive in full sun to partial shade and may attain 40′ in height in 30 to 50 years. Zones 4 to 8.

Black Willow

Black Willow. The black willow has elongated green leaves and dark brown to black, deeply furrowed bark. The tiny yellowish-green flowers that appear in catkins in the spring provide nectar for bees and other pollinators. Growing best in full sun to part shade, the Black Willow can grow to a height of 50 feet in an urban setting. Tolerates wet sites. Zones 2 to 8.

Of course, just as trees take care of us, we need to take care of trees during periods of prolonged heat spells—by watering. For clients without irrigation systems, make sure to emphasize the importance of proper watering, particularly for those trees planted within the past one to three years. Watering tips and more can be found on the Casey Trees site.

This article was adapted from blog posts written by Jona Elwell, communications specialist with Casey Trees. (Article photos from Casey Trees. Cover photo: ISTOCK.)

  The above article was first published on this site.

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While wildfires happen every season in California, this year’s toll is particularly devastating. According to a briefing Monday by CA Governor Gavin Newsom, this time last year, CA had 4,292 wildfires burning across 56,000 acres. This year, there are 7,002 fires burning across more than 1.4 million acres. There have been seven deaths and over 12,000 structures destroyed. Two of the “lightning complex” fires burning around the San Francisco area are now recorded as the second and third largest in CA history.

Unfortunately, there are no ways to fireproof a property, but the University of California’s Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources offers strategies to design and maintain landscapes for reduced vulnerability. A key component of this protection is the proper placement and maintenance of plants around the home. While many in CA now seek plants with a label assuring some level of fire resistance, it’s important to recognize that any plant will burn under the right conditions.

During a wildfire, structures are threatened not only by the flaming front of the fire, but also by embers that are lofted ahead of the fire front and can come into contact with receptive fuels (e.g vegetation or mulch next to the house), igniting new fires. Traditional “defensible space” tactics are designed to mitigate threats from the front of the fire but do little to address vulnerabilities to wafting embers. Without attention to ember-related risks, defensible space efforts only address a portion of the threat—especially during wind-driven fires.

A Three Zone Strategy

To be able to reduce ember, radiant heat, and direct flame exposure to a structure, develop and implement a three-zone strategy whereby the highest priorities and most restrictive measures are incorporated in the area closest to the building. Treating potential “fuels” within the first five feet of structures is one of the most important aspects of wildfire hazard mitigation.

While these strategies require some adjustment from methods of the past, it is possible to have both a beautiful landscape and a home that is more resilient to wildfire. Work from the house outward to make sure the structure itself is hardened against fire, then implement the guidelines here in concentric circles moving away from your structures. Here are some tips to think about:

Create Defensible Space

Create fuel breaks (essentially spaces) surrounding the house and within the yard.

Place plants with ample space both vertically and horizontally.

Use hardscape and noncombustible materials around structures and to separate individual plants and groups of plants.

Use the right plants in the right places with fire, climate, and irrigation needs in mind.

Create plant islands that have similar sun, nutrient, and water needs.

Replace combustible (such as wood) gates that attach to the house with materials that will not burn.

Decorative Features such as fencing and gazebos, as well as firewood, can be combustible materials that should be considered in a landscape layout. Use appropriate clearance or modify positioning for these features to reduce the threat from burning embers.

Maintain The Landscape

Keep the garden free of dead wood, dry grasses, and leaf litter, especially near any structures.

Prune plants to maintain horizontal and vertical space throughout the property and surrounding structures.

Eliminate “fire ladders.” For instance, a grass fire can move up into shrubs and then further into trees.

Hydrate plants with a water-wise irrigation system. Use non combustible mulches near the house.

This defensible space is only part of a larger landscape management strategy, designed to protect a home and property. The general surroundings leading up to a home or building must also be considered as part of wildfire preparedness planning.

Steep Slopes & Wind

Source: East Bay Municipal Utility District (ebmud.com)

If the home is located on a steep slope, or in a drainage area, windy area, or an area surrounded by unusually dense, tall, or combustible vegetation, thinning recommendations increase. Additionally, if the property is surrounded by vegetation especially prone to wildfire or has an active fire history, the greater the clearance and separation between plants and plant groupings should be. When a home is at the top of a slope, keep in mind that fire and heat rise, allowing for pre-heating of upslope fuels and resulting in the potential for more intense fire behavior. In these cases, greater effort should be directed at the downslope of the home with even higher levels of spacing given to the area below a deck. Recommendations based on the judgement of fire professionals are:

Under 20% slope: Space shrubs 2 x the height

20-40% slope: Space shrubs 4 x the height

Greater than 40%: Space shrubs 6 x the height

Wind is another factor to consider alongside aspect and slope. A south-facing slope with southerly winds can easily span the 30 foot “lean and clean” recommendation. Work with a local resource experts to install adequate measures if a property is at great risk.

Helping client properties achieve greater wildfire resiliency will take a coupled approach and greater awareness of ember protection. Homes survive wildfire through a combination of 1) careful design and maintenance of landscaping; 2) awareness and management of combustible materials on the property (e.g., leaf litter, wood piles, and lawn furniture); and 3) incorporation of fire- and ember-resistant construction materials with appropriate installation and maintenance.

This article was adapted from “Preparing Your Landscape” from the Division of Agriculture and Natural Resources at the University of California. Visit their Fire resources and information pages here.

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