Dragon and How to Live With Them
Dragons are apex predators native to the Drift fringe ecosystem, older and stranger territory than the stable eddy islands. Contrary to some assumptions, they were not domesticated or bred for partnership with humans. The exact relationship between a dragon and human is complicated, though for the dragon, a rider is a something between physical and emotional companion, pet, and useful ally. The exact depth of the emotional and physical bond varies by pair, though it is usually a private matter and not one explicitly taught in academic curriculum. The number of dragons that actually seek a rider is miniscule, though even that tiny portion is always more than enough to bond every student in Aetherspire. Feral dragons exist in quantity on the Drift and always have.
Common eddy coloring runs from vibrant greens and blues, to dusky and earthy tones. Deep Drift dragons from further out have more exotic patterns and colors, depending on the exact species. It is not unheard of for storms to blow in never before seen types in every color imaginable.
Excerpt from Draconic Anatomy for the Dragon Rider By Sir Kenneth King
For academic purposes, the body of a dragon is divided into four main sections: the head and neck, torso, tail, and wings.
Dragons vary in length greatly depending on the exact species or mix thereof, as dragons freely intermingle. The resulting hybrids usually express the traits of their more extended family, rather than the traits of only mother and father. True Dragons are not able to hybridize outside of their family, and are not compatible with the other draconic families, such as wyverns, and wyrms.
Dragons tend to range from around 20-25 feet in overall snout to tail-tip length, though the actual body/neck length is less variable at 9-12 feet total. True Dragons have six limbs; including four legs and two wings. At this scale a fully grown dragon can easily coil around a human with room to spare, while remaining of such a size that a rider can sit fairly comfortably and in a natural position.
Dragons grow extremely quickly, reaching adulthood and slowing in growth at the age of twelve, though they are able to reproduce as early as ten. In general, growth stops completely around the age of fifteen to eighteen. Most dragons seeking a rider will be between ten and fifteen. Dragons typically live about 50 years in the wild, and up to 80 with proper care. A few have been known to live past 100, though such instances are few and far between.
The best part of a dragon to understand scale, the torso of a dragon is the portion from the base of the neck extending to the haunches and excluding the tail.
The chest and stomach region of a dragon is usually between 5 and 7 feet long, about the size of a grown adult human. The haunches typically add an additional 1-2.5 feet. Therefore, the scale of a dragon's torso is generally between 6 and 10 feet long.
The torso is one of the best armored parts of a dragon, having the thickest, roughest scale on the back, and smoother, more flexible underside scales. The back scales are more or less impervious to the weapons of man, though the underside can be pierced with a sharp spear or powerful crossbow. Despite this, inflicting a grave wound on a dragon is very difficult.
Along the neck, spine, and tail of a dragon marches a membranous frill demarked by periodic spines. This membrane is fully prehensile, allowing a dragon to use it in response to wind conditions, or fold it down in certain areas when a rider or other luggage is present. The frill is given shape by long spines that will be described later, though they are venomous. The longest spines are found behind the "shoulders" of the wings, which are mounted just above the front forelegs.
The forelegs are of considerable interest. They are strong and very mobile, though less so than the human arm which they often take the function of. The front face bears strong scale as well, though the sides and back are usually quite smooth, being made of the more flexible scale. In the "pits" of the forelegs are a set of secondary scent glands.
Upon the forelegs, of course, are the paws. These paws are huge, as large as a man's head and several inches longer if the talons themselves are included. They have five fingers, one of which is extra mobile and acts as a thumb when needed. Each finger is about as long as a man's outstretched hand, again, not counting the talon at the end. They are able to walk on these front paws in a digitigrade stance, or to use them as somewhat clumsy hands.
The talons on the front paws are about three to six inches long, depending much on how often they are used directly on stone. They are more or less universally a shiny black, with a crescent moon arc, and very smooth. The tips, while sharp, prioritize sturdiness, though a carefree grip will still easily pierce even leather clothes.
The rear legs are similar to a canine's in structure, with a distinguished digitigrade stance, though the foot is elongated. The thigh is about the length of the human torso, the calf and foot are each about the length of a human thigh, from hip to knee. Each toe and talon is about the length of the human foot, though they are very thick and powerful. The talons of the rear leg are very sturdy, with strong points to dig into stone while climbing, and serrated to provide maximum friction on wet, smooth faces. The structure of the foot gives them an excellent range of motion and standing positions to maximize the effectiveness of both walking and climbing. They can deliver a kick powerful enough to disembowel even another dragon in a single blow.
Just in front of the rear legs are four teats and associated mammary glands. These glands are inert unless an egg has recently been laid, and are ordinarily completely hidden. When there is milk, the swelling of the glands pushes the scales apart in the region slightly, revealing the teats. The area is quite sensitive during such an event, though it does not pose a operation significant risk.
Dragons usually walk digitigrade on all four legs, though they can rise on their rear legs to walk if need be, though they must use their wings and tail to maintain balance or act as extra legs to do this.
The head and neck of the dragon are what much of a rider's time will be spent observing. This section is self-describing, though the neck is defined as terminating at the collarbone.
The head of a dragon is very large, and being the primary means of investigating a new rider, it will seem even more so. From nose to end, it is roughly the length of a human torso from neck to hip. The long, reptilian mouth usually sports a single row of hooked, triangular teeth which sweep back at a slight angle. Some more rare species have smooth teeth which sweep back at a more extreme angle and are longer. Much like most snakes, these species will also have a second row of teeth known as a pharyngeal jaw deeper in the mouth, which sports recurved teeth dedicated for griping prey. The exact nature has little impact on a dragon and rider's performance, though it is an important detail to ensure that proper hygiene can be administered.
A dragon's tongue is very long. It coils within the back of the skull, and is far longer than one might expect from the size of the head. The tongue can be extended about the length of the head, and is fully prehensile. It is usually about two inches wide and an inch thick, resembling a fleshy tube rather than a more common human-like tongue. The tongue is the primary means of cleaning itself and the rider, and they do this will great regularity both for hygiene and for bonding reasons.
They will instinctively lick open wounds, as their saliva is mildly antiseptic. The tongue is covered in tiny rough bumps. While they do not cause damage, they will be painful in an open wound. These bumps give the dragon a means of debriding the spaces between scales. When cleaning your dragon, take note of the places it cannot easily reach, such as behind the head frills and the back of the neck. They are very particular about remaining clean, and will groom themselves and you at any opportune moment.
Dragons typically have two horns which sweep back from just behind the eyes. Horns vary greatly in shape and exact position, and some may have dozens of smaller ones instead. Horns share the same color as the dragon's talons, and are very hard and very sharp. The most common form is a spike following the shape of the head directly back, and bout a foot long. Ram's horn style is also fairly common.
Just below the horns are the ears. Some species will not have visible ears. Those who do will have long, pointed ears which are quite narrow. Dragons generally have exceptionally good hearing. The ears are quite sensitive to blows, so take care around them. The natural resting position is flat back, following the direction of the horns. A curious or investigating dragon will prick them up and forwards, just like a dog. A frightened or worried dragon will hold them flat back and slightly down, a few degrees below the resting position. A content or resting dragon will either hold their ears in a neutral position, or allow them to flop out to the sides. A deeply sleeping or extremely content dragon's ears will be limp. Generally, the position of your dragon's ears will tell you a lot about what they are paying attention to and how they feel about it.
A Dragon's eyes are large, though remaining proportional to the head. The visible portion of the eye is about the size of an adult's fist. Dragons have two eyelids, one ordinary one, and a second one which is a clear membrane deployed in flight and combat, which protects the eye from particles and high wind-speeds. The pupils are slitted vertically, and the sclera is usually the same base color as the iris. The iris often has a "gold dust" look; shimmery flakes of metallic color that contrast or compliment the base color.
At the rear of the jaw is another set of frills, of the same anatomy as the ones on the back and neck. These ones are primarily for display and communication, though they are also venomous. They usually have a bright pattern which is not shared by the other frills, though it will be obscured by the frill's natural folds when in the resting position. Even dull, earthy colored dragons will have iridescent patterns on the neck frills.
Just under these frills, at the back of the jaw, is a set of secondary scent glands. Expect your dragon to rub you and your belongings all over with these in the first few weeks of bonding. Be mindful of the frills.
The neck follows the same scale-pattern as the torso, with strong scales on the back, weaker ones on the front. At the base of the back of the head, the membrane begins, where it trails down the length of the dragon. The neck terminates at the collarbone, which is visible as a trapezoidal patch of slightly different scales. This is the weakest point on a dragon, aside from the wings.
While ordinary in appearance, the tail is just as important for flying as wings are. The tail begins at the hips. Directly under the base of the tail is a dragon's anus, and directly below that, between the rear legs, is the crotch and primary scent glands. The tail is one of the best indicators of a dragon's mood if they are not directly focused on you, or not utilizing their jaw-frills.
The base of the tail is usually about as thick as a human torso, and is a primary spot for storing body fat. If it becomes very muscular and defined, your dragon needs more fat. The tail tapers over a length of around 10 to 15 feet to the end, which bears a horizontal membrane structure resembling small wings. These are highly important for aerial movement, and will severely hamper maneuverability if damaged. They are one of the first things targeted by angry wyvern flocks. The bones which control these surfaces also sport venomous spines, though they are larger and require a significant impact to set, so they are not as dangerous for a rider as the spinal ones.
If your dragon approaches you with tail raised high, and a hip-swaying gait, it is recommended to put your hands over your face, close your eyes, and hold your breath, as the dragon is likely about to mark you. The primary scent gland is much more potent than the secondary glands, and the scent will not wear off completely for many months. The frequency of this marking will diminish with time.
The wings are, of course, the primary means of flight for a dragon. While the dragon will handle most of the fighting and flying, it is a not insignificant part of a rider's job to ensure the wings are kept healthy and un-assaulted.
The wings connect to the back just above the shoulders of the forelegs. Large flight muscles here create a visible hump that is more pronounced when the wings are raised. At this hump, the spine dips slightly. This is where a rider will ordinarily sit, as the slight dip provides a natural seat, and the extra weight there will not affect flight. Some riders, especially those with larger dragons or those who are small themselves, might prefer to sit just in front of the wings and the flight muscles, as the concussive blast of hard flapping can be uncomfortable in the first position. Sitting here is more straining for a dragon in the long-term, but it might be advantageous when lots of maneuvering is expected, as a rider can wrap their legs around the neck better or lie mostly prone along the neck to hold on with arms and legs. An ergonomic saddle can reduce the strain of flying for both rider and dragon to a dramatic degree.
The wings themselves are strikingly similar in structure to a human arm and hand. They have the same structure in the humerus, radius and ulna, and a similar wrist structure. The wing membrane is spread an manipulated by a "hand" of five greatly elongated fingers, exactly like a bat. Unlike a human or bat, dragons have five fingers supporting the membrane instead of four, and they have a sixth finger structured like a thumb and not attached to the membrane. This thumb is short, does not have a membrane connecting to it, and has a short claw. This extra finger, sometimes called a knuckle, is used frequently by a dragon for both gripping objects, balance, and climbing. Many riders teach their dragon to carry things like lanterns in this knuckle to provide light while they explore on foot.
The wingspan of a dragon follows two main characteristics. They will either have fairly short wings, in which the length of a wing in flight is equal to the nose to tail-tip length, or they will have wings roughly double that size.
Long-winged dragons are slower flyers, though they are uncontested in maximum altitude, flight duration, and gliding distance. They are also the most comfortable type to ride long-distance. The long wingspan makes complex maneuvers difficult and severely limits maximum diving speed and flight speed. A long winged dragon is almost a necessity for long-range recon. This type usually have a longer tail with much more pronounced flight surfaces.
Short wing dragons are unmatched in speed and maneuverability, and can accelerate to great speed safely in a dive, and more importantly, pull out of such a dive. They are, however, less comfortable to ride long distance as they much flap their wings much more often, which can cause rider headaches. Frequent flapping also severely limits maximum flight duration, as they burn much more energy even when gliding. Short winged dragons are notorious for causing barotrauma and blackouts in riders during heavy maneuvering. They have visibly more muscular backs and wings than Long-wing varieties.
The wing membrane itself is quite fragile. It is very thin and has a texture like leather. It is covered with tiny velvety hairs which minimize heat loss, ice buildup, and aid in shedding rain. It also protects the skin from minor abrasions to an extent. While the wings will spend more time damaged in some minor way than whole throughout a dragon's life, they have a remarkable capacity for healing and self-sealing.
The only damage to a wing that will require intervention is a broken bone, severed artery, or long rent that splits the trailing edge of the wing, rendering a section loose. Such long rents must be stitched and immobilized long enough for the flaps to re-align and heal enough to fly. These must be prevented at all costs as they can down a dragon for weeks or months depending on the severity. Wing bones are difficult to set properly, and are covered extensively in the survival-care documents. They will require traction splints, immobilization, and months of downtime. Wing arteries are likewise imperative to protect, as severing one will prevent flight until it has healed as the cut-off portions of the wing will quickly become anemic and "dead" without the one of the main arteries. They are self-sealing in the event of severing, though external pressure will greatly speed the process and minimize blood loss. Arterial damage in the wing usually does not require intervention outside of rest and initial staunching.
Wings are an important part of dragon expression, though one less often considered than the tail. Dragons often use wings to wrap around companions, to protect, or to shield them from rain or wind. Flared wings is an unmistakable sign of agitation. "Hugging" with wings has a second driving reason as well. The "pit" of the wings, just like the forearms are the location of a secondary scent gland, and extended periods of embrace are often used to transfer a scent with an affectionate connotation.
Dragon Sex Identification
On one hand, identifying the gender of your dragon is very simple. On the other, it is very difficult. True Dragons are all hermaphroditic. In the crotch area is a false cloaca, where the male and female reproductive organs reside. "False", because it does not handle bodily waste. Since dragons don't directly understand human words, using the incorrect pronouns doesn't mean anything to them, though it is worth remembering that your "male" dragon might lay an egg or two.
On the topic of eggs, dragons will occasionally do that. During high hormonal periods, or simply without any obvious trigger at all, a dragon may produce an unfertilized egg with little warning. You can be relatively sure the egg is unfertilized, as dragons typically forgo the urge to find a mate when they choose a rider. They will usually eat the egg a few hours or days later. If they become unusually broody with it and/or you, it is recommended to inform the liaison and receive dragonet care training. Unfertilized or not, laying eggs will come with at least a few weeks of slightly swollen mammary glands.
Most dragons tend to lean into one binary sex or the other, though even when they do, it does not always indicate their partner preference. Plenty are perfectly content to switch at will, or simply exist in the middle ground. It is always important to remember that dragons, like humans, are not driven solely by biology, and will make their own choices. Most dragons will never seek outside romantic contact after finding a rider, while others will seek out short term relationships, especially during typical mating seasons. Do not forget that nothing ties them to you, or you to them, aside from the bond you mutually build. If they are important to you above all else, you can be assured they feel the same way about you.
Basics of Dragon Reproduction
While more in-depth information can be found in the dedicated resources, a brief introduction to the cycle is introduced here.
When a dragon is fertilized, the body is triggered into forming between one and four eggs. Usually, there are one or two. Dragons, like a few species of snake, retain the eggs within the body for up to eight months for development. For most of the period, as well as when laid, the eggs are about watermelon sized and weigh a hefty 23-28 lbs. Unfertilized eggs are noticeably lighter, slightly smaller, and usually are laid after only a month of carrying. During the period of ovoviviparity, the egg shells are leathery and somewhat flexible. They will air-harden after laying.
Eggs are brooded for about three weeks after laying, where they will hatch immediately mobile and hungry. They will nurse from their mother for up to six months to grow as quickly as possible before switching to solid foods. Dragonets develop quickly after hatching, starting the size of a large dog and progressing to double-size in less than a year. Dragons typically "move out" after two or three years, and are full adults by the age of ten.
As the size implies, the process of laying eggs is extremely exhausting and quite painful. Refer to care training manuals for more in-depth information on what a rider should do during the process, and thinks to watch out for.
The added weight and general level care the eggs require during gravidity will prevent extreme mobility and many more ordinary maneuvers which can affect mission performance. It is not recommended to engage in intense missions if your dragon is gravid. In fact, It is better to avoid them completely, as an internal egg rupture is a life-threatening complication. The Academy maintains a "maternity fund" to support riders if the lack of income is likely to be troublesome.
Given the size of the eggs, an observant rider will have plenty of advanced notice. During this time it is recommended to inform the liaison team so that dragonet care training can be delivered on-site, or if the dragon is comfortable, back at the academy.
A dragon's primary weapon is extremely important for a rider to understand. The most common weapon is a venomous bite. These can be: cytotoxic necrotizing venoms, hemotoxins causing excessive bleeding or clotting, or nerve venoms which are usually non-lethal paralytics like the spine venom or debilitating deliriants. Extreme caution should be taken around the teeth of a venomous dragon. Venom is not delivered via fangs like a snake, but by groves present in every tooth, meaning envenomation can occur from any wayward nip.
Poisonous vapor is the next most common weapon. This vapor is usually either a strong soporific, or a powerful lachrymator, causing short-term respiratory damage, excessive weeping, and difficulty breathing. A few dragons have outright deadly breath, though that is extremely rare.
More uncommon is fire-breath. Fire breath requires special care, not just for it's effects, but for the anatomy that produces it. Fire breath works by accumulation "drake oil" oil within a gland along the neck. In this oil is dissolved a pyrophoric gas. When a dragon breathes fire, it expels this oil, which the gas violently boils out of and ignites with a palpable "whump". Depending on how the dragon chooses to expel this oil-mix, the end result can be anything from a stream of burning fluid, more ordinary fire-breath, or even outright thermobaric detonation.
If a fire breathing dragon goes too long without using its breath, the glands can engorge and become painful and inflamed. Rarely, this inflammation can even cause them to swell shut, making it impossible to expel the building pressure. A rider must then reach into the mouth, massage the glands and coax them open again by pressure, a cooling object, or an astringent poultice. Thus, it is recommended to not put your dragon into a situation where they cannot breathe fire at least once per day.
As previously mentioned, the frills along the dorsal membrane and jaw of a dragon are venomous, but the structure is not simple. The frill itself is maintained in shape by the spines. These spines are actually hollow. Inside of them is a long, thin quill with a venom sack at the base. The length of a quill varies with the length of a spine, and are generally between two and six inches long, and about a sixteenth of an inch in diameter. They have a few dozen very tiny barbs that cannot be seen without a magnifying glass.
When a quill is impacted, it sticks into the offending object. The pressure of impact squeezes venom from the sack at the base of the quill both filling the quill with venom and envenoming the target. The amount envenomation is directly proportional to pressure, and the severity of the effect is likewise proportional to the amount of venom. The venom in all species is the same powerful paralytic that targets slow-twitch, or conscious movement muscles. Unlike the paralytic venom sometimes found in a dragon's mouth, no amount of this paralytic will shut down organs or cause respiratory/cardiac failure. A light bump against a quill might not set it, but could still numb a hand or finger. A hard impact will set a quill and disable entire limbs or core muscles.
While not inherently deadly, envenomation is almost a guaranteed death sentence to any flying creature, as it will more than likely plummet uncontrolled to the ground far, far below. For an envenomed rider, signaling that you are losing grip is paramount, as falling off your dragon is not likely to end well even with the strapping system in the flight-suit.
Strong envenomation will often completely paralyze sections of the body, where a light one might only cause numbness or stiffness. Envenomation in the neck or face is typically the only inherently dangerous place, as it can cause the rider to accidentally block their own airways with their tongue. If possible, a rider should enroll the dragon in first aid as well, where they are taught to listen to their rider's breathing when they are envenomed, and potentially clear the mouth with their tongue.
The duration of the venom is directly proportional to the amount injected. With a complete 6" quill set, it could take twelve hours or more before feeling returns to the affected area. If the quill is not removed, it will continue leaking venom into the affected system, and can cause effects to last for days. Mild injections from bumping a quill typically fade in under an hour.
With the size and hooked anatomy of a quill, as well as the risk of continued envenomation and infection, they must be removed as soon as possible. Removal usually requires a few pounds of steady pressure if it is fully set, and a smooth pull is much preferred to a quick tug, as it will cause less tissue damage. A tongs and elongated forceps is included in every rider medical kit for removing quills, even if they have sunken beneath the surface of the skin. Fortunately, in the event minor surgery be required to access the quill, the area is already completely numb. It is required that a rider visit a hospital or academy infirmary as soon as possible after deep quill set, as the puncture may have caused damage that will not be noticed until the paralytic effect has worn off. A lack of pain does not mean you are undamaged, and even minor impalements can lead to debilitating infection if not properly assessed.
When riding it is important to be mindful of where your body rests against spines. Dragons cannot deactivate them, and getting impaled mid-mission usually means failure. They do require a few pounds of force to set, and leather gloves and the standard leather riding suit greatly reduce the risk of accidental injection, especially along the inner thigh, crotch, and abdomen. Common areas to be afflicted in saddle-less riding.
Dragon Behavior and Bonds, and How To Live With One
Excerpt from A New Rider's Survival Guide by Rider Jonas Heldefson.
Dragons are complex creatures, and the greatest mistake a rider can make is to treat their dragon with anything less than respect. Dragons are not simple beasts, nor are they pets. In fact, from an outside perspective, it is the rider who is closer to being a pet in the relationship.
Many dragons do not seek a rider at any point in their life. These dragons are referred to as "Feral" in many texts, though they are behaviorally no different from a "tamed" dragon. Such terms are distributed by those who have never encountered a dragon, wild or not.
Dragons choose riders because they want a specific companion, not because they need one. The decision is personal. The dragon has preferences and when it chooses someone, it is a declaration that it wants this particular human for reasons that usually will not be legible to anyone, including the rider. The practical benefits of a rider include such activities as blind spot coverage against wyverns, human dexterity for technical work and hygiene, navigation record-keeping, and political standing for nesting claims. These are real benefits, but the initial choice, much like a lover falling head over heels with a stranger, is not made on tactical grounds.
This section will serve to walk a new rider through the basics of dragon behavior, bonds, and important actions to be on the lookout for.
General Demeanor and Language
One of the first important lessons of interacting with a dragon is that they do not understand your words. While associations can be taught in time, the fact remains they are not equipped mentally or physically for the style of language a human uses. Do not, however, assume they are dumb, for dragons have their own language completely alien to us. This language is not based on words or description, but on concept. They communicate emotion and will. While we cannot understand exactly what they say, we can infer their meaning from their other actions. Likewise, that is exactly how they understand us. Learning the "baseline" of dragon behavior is a good place to start.
Dragons communicate with each other and humans through a language of body and contact. They have a wide range of vocalizations, but they are context depended. Dragons do not have the flexibility in their faces to make the range of expressions humans do, and overcome this shortfall with body language and physical contact. The primary "body language centers" are the wings, tail, and position of the head, ears, and flanks. Much of this depends on the individual, and is best learned through direct interaction. Pinched or flared wings indicate discomfort or unease, a low head and high haunches indicated playfulness. You need not a book to tell you when a dragon is angry. The speed of the tail can give a deep insight into the way a dragon is feeling as well.
Dragons are, rather paradoxically, profoundly lazy and extremely active. They will swap between these modes of operation with little warning if there is nothing to occupy their attention. They enjoy long naps in the sun, they enjoy chasing each other. Above all, they seem to value the hunt, and "hunting" is one of the first games they learn as a dragonet. Dragons also seem to find their rider's very cute, and will playfully cuddle and wrestle them.
Above all, for the first few days and weeks of bonding, remember that dragons are extremely proud, and overwhelmingly possessive. They have just found a human they are enamored with, and will not let anything get in the way of enjoying them. The first few days will be characterized by aggressive scent marking, manhandling, obsessive pickiness, and establishing dominance at every opportunity. This stage will be discussed later, though bear in mind that as the dragon grows used to its rider, they will stop fretting so much, allowing for negotiation and autonomy once again.
The dragon-rider bond is something unique and completely mysterious to science. A well developed bond will see rider and dragon attuned to each other's needs, moods, and emotions. Fear, pleasure, curiosity, these things all become mutual feelings. While the bond itself is not as obvious as some riders would have you believe, it is undeniable, if subtle.
While the mental portion of the bond is the more talked-about parts, the bond performs more than just relaying emotions. The bond is also apparent in how the dragon interacts with the rider's world. They will eventually realize the rider is acting in their best interest, which opens a new avenue of interaction. The most telling stage of bond development is saddle fitting. Such a chore requires two or three long days in the workshop, where strangers manipulate and measure the dragon's body all over in a cramped space. Ordinarily this would end catastrophically, but a developed bond will see the dragon remaining patient throughout, recognizing this struggle as something their rider needs.
The bond is far from being all goodwill and tolerance. When a dragon initially choses a rider and the bond is triggered, they become extremely possessive of the rider's attention and presence. Other dragons or even humans showing interest in them is a threat, and any escape attempt, whether it be trying to flee a cave or simply reposition in their grip, is a high offence. The rider's social life registers to the dragon as competition for attention it considers its own. This softens over months as the dragon becomes more secure in the bond but does not disappear entirely.
Others showing interest will trigger a territorial display of fanned wings and snarling until the "threat" is removed, and will usually be followed with an aggressive marking routine. Escape attempts or resisting the will of the dragon are met with dominance displays. This often involves physically picking up the rider with the mouth and directly repositioning them, performing a terrifying display of snarling while they drag the rider back to their intended place, seizing them under clawed forepaws, or the infamous submission bite.
That particular display involves knocking or throwing the rider to the ground, then grabbing the rider's neck in their mouth and pushing them into the ground. This maneuver usually ends up with quite a bit of blood being drawn, and is unfortunately common. It will hurt, and they will not be gentle about it. They are not trying to kill you, nor do they hate you. An astute rider will observe this action performed on other dragons in the wild, or if any foolish individuals ignore the threat display.
Domestic behaviors with a Rider
The initial few days of cohabitation are extremely stressful, but they will pass. New riders may be confused as to why they are sent with a pack of medical supplies, clothes, and a few books, but it comes down to the daily flow inside a dragon's cave.
Unfortunately, dragons are not naturally accustomed to living with creatures as soft and flimsy as a human, and it will show quickly. For the first few weeks, expect a few claw scratches and bruises every time they pick you up. Punctures, bruises, minor lacerations, and frill envenomation will be a common occurrence for at least a month. While severe injuries are rare, the rider is not sent unprepared. Remember, dragon saliva is a mild antiseptic, and in the event your dragon refuses to bring you back to the academy for a serious injury, the Liaison can bring a doctor with them.
It is likely within the first day the rider will be groomed. Whether this is enjoyable or not is entirely up to the individual. Grooming of the rider is common and performed with thorough focus. The rider's opinion on timing and duration is not considered relevant. The dragon cleans wounds, addresses injuries, and maintains the rider's general condition as part of its normal behavior. This is affectionate. Due to the roughness of a dragon's tongue, it will likely not feel affectionate at first. Expect it to be a daily occurrence, and likely even more often during the first week or so.
It is recommended to get used to grooming as quickly as possible, and to wear clothes loosely until the dragon learns to signal when they want to groom, as they will spend a moment attempting to nudge them aside. This will give the rider a chance to remove them willingly, rather than having them simply torn off, as is unfortunately common with tight and unyielding clothes. Whatever clothes you wear in the first week will effectively be destroyed by the end, whether by force or by marking fluid.
Dragons tend to take long naps in the sun on conducive days, usually for hours at a time. This is an excellent time for the rider to get self-care done, or to read or perform course work. On cloudy days, the dragons usually prefer to rest in the cave holding the rider close. It is not recommended to try clean off marking fluid while the dragon is asleep. Not only will it not work, but it is more likely the dragon will see this as an escape attempt and mark the rider even more thoroughly.
As the dragon becomes more aware of the rider's needs, they will inevitably realize the circle of smooth stone they consider a nest is woefully insufficient for their rider's comfort. While this may take a few chilly days, they will eventually collect soft material to line the nest with. This will include blankets, old clothes, soft mosses or leaves, and whatever else they might decide is suitable. The Academy maintains a stockpile of such material, cleaned and washed, to reduce instances of dragons snatching belongings. Expect to see your own bedding and clothes from your dormitory as well, as these are added to the stockpile too. Your dragon will deliberately take these items first, as they smell like you.
Before this advanced nesting takes place, if you should need warmth, creep under a wing or deeper into the dragon's grip. Not only will this provide needed heat, but any attempt to initiate or deepen physical contact will make your dragon very pleased.
As afore mentioned, dragons will attempt to engage in play with their rider. At which point in the bonding phase this takes places has the greatest effect on whether the attempt will be successful or not. Usually, this will come in the form of headbutting to knock the rider over, pouncing, "stalking", one-sided wrestling, or suddenly picking them up and going for quick flights. Be mindful of you body, and do not let pride get in the way of making sounds of pain. Your dragon will pick up on these and be more careful.
It is worth noting that headbutting is recognized as the dragon presenting the flat top of their head to you, rearing back a bit, and bumping into you. Prods with the snout or pushes with the side of the head usually indicate they are trying to get you to do something.
Severe injuries or illnesses are an unfortunate possibility of the cohabitation period, and must be treated with care. Your dragon already knows the best place for you is the academy, but in the first month or so, they will be afraid to bring you there. From their point of view, there is a possibility that bringing you back might mean you will not return to them.
If medical attention is absolutely needed, such as for a broken bone, prolonged illness, or other long-lasting, high impact affliction, running through the positive reinforcements in the following section will aid greatly. Hug your dragon, sidle close to them, rest with them. This will make them feel you are choosing them, and will ease any misgivings they may have about bringing you to aid. Repeating "Aetherspire", and "Help", or pointing in the direction of the academy has been reported to help as well. If your dragon does not seem to want to return you, inform the Liaison by whatever means necessary on the nightly visit, and they will arrange to bring a doctor to you.
Remaining well fed is just as important as any other time in life. It is not easy to procure food when stuck in a mountain cave. Fortunately, you have an enormous apex predator to hunt for you. Before actual riding is performed regularly, ie. about two months in, your dragon will not expect you to come along on hunting trips. They will hunt and bring food to you. This food will invariably be raw meat. Cooking it may prove challenging, though once you perform the action once, a dragon will usually pick up on the idea that you need to do it. Fire-breathing dragons may try to cook your food for you, and will usually char it. Cut strips thin to ensure they are cooked well to avoid parasites or illness.
If your dragon attempts to force feed you before you have a chance to cook it, play sad and cry, but don't fight or hit. It will confuse them enough to let you do what you need to do, as crying when food is present is a behavior completely alien to a dragon. Included in the nightly liaison drops are dried ship-biscuit, candied or dried fruits, and a little salt. Once your dragon is comfortable bringing you back to Aetherspire regularly, you may use the dining hall at any hour.
Because the rider's diet for the first month or so is almost exclusively red meat, gout is a very real risk. Included in ration packs are dried biscuits, dried fruit, citrus extract tablets, and salt. Eat these foods first to minimize the amount of meat you ingest every day. If possible, avoid organ meats and fatty parts. Drink as much water as you can even if you are not thirsty. If your urine is yellow, you are not drinking enough. Use at least one citrus tablet a day, as well as all of the salt, which is packaged by day in wax-paper pouches. Such actions dramatically reduce the risk of gout. Should it flare up anyways, drinking willow tea will aid with pain relief.
This naturally raises the question of water procurement. Included in your gear are three waterskins. Your dragon will normally take you to whatever body of water they ordinarily drink from once a day. Use this opportunity to drink as much as you can, then fill the waterskins. If you should run out, make a point of dry-swallowing and coughing, or upending a waterskin, demonstrating that it is empty. Dragons are surprisingly perceptive of dehydration and will pick up on the hints fairly quickly. In the first few weeks, taking you to water is going to be very stressful for the dragon. Don't leave their side, as this will cause undue anxiety and may risk cutting the trip short.
Despite sleeping for much of the day if given the chance, a dragon will sleep from full dark until sunrise. Dragons sleep very lightly, especially at night. Even if they appear asleep, rest assured they are aware of your every move. If you must get up in the night, keeping a hand on them at all times will prevent them from forcibly holding you. They will prefer to sleep coiled around you or directly on top of you. Try to reinforce the coiling behavior as much as possible, unless you don't mind the extra weight.
Meeting friends can be tricky with a newly bonded dragon. In the first weeks, this will be entirely impossible, as your dragon will not allow you out of the nest. In the first few trips they take you back to the academy, it will be helpful to maintain physical distance from others to prevent a territorial response. Under no circumstances make physical contact, especially with another rider, as it will trigger extensive marking for both of you. Around the two month mark, your dragon will be used to your autonomy enough for you to visit others without overreacting. It is not recommended to visit or bring a visitor to your stable or nest until after the fourth month.
Around the six month mark, your dragon will be self-confident enough to allow you to freely intermingle with others and even meet other dragons, provided they also have a rider. Your dragon will likely never allow unsupervised contact with an unbonded dragon, not that you should be seeking that out anyways. If you are bringing a visitor, with or without their dragon to your own nest, be prepared for your dragon to initiate grooming at any time during the meeting. This is a subtle hint they are feeling uneasy, and want to reinforce their contact with you. It will help if you maintain physical contact with them at all times.
While a dragon will have no issue sleeping most of the day away if given the chance, extended periods of inactivity due to injury, illness, or poor weather will eventually cause them to seek stimulation. If rider or dragon is injured or ill, simple play is out of the question, and dragons will get creative to find something to do. This can range from innocent activities such as rearranging nest material, stretching and pacing, gnawing old bones, or extra grooming, to less ideal practices like shredding things, attempting play when one of the two parties is ill or injured, or overeating. Likewise, boredom is the rider's enemy as well, especially during the first few weeks.
It is important to recognize the signs of boredom, and to alleviate it as much as possible to prevent more destructive habits from forming. Included are some recommended activities.
Included in a rider's training pack, and regularly delivered by the Liaison team with your rations are many books. While these will range wildly in topic, most contain large, colorful illustrations. Reading aloud while cuddling with your dragon is an excellent low-energy exercise, and is stimulating both for the rider and dragon. You may find your dragon adopts a favorite book or two, usually sections with rhymes or strong meter, and will want them read often. While they don't understand the words, your voice is soothing and enriching to them. For story books, it is worth getting theatrical with character voices, as they will find this immensely interesting. This exercise, along with singing, is excellent for the first few weeks, as it does not require autonomy and greatly aids your dragon in learning to asses your vocal tones.
Like reading aloud, singing is an excellent activity. Sing the same song a few times, and your dragon will likely try to sing with you. They will adopt favorite tunes very quickly, and you may find them humming them on their own time.
Mind games are also a great resource. Games with strict rules and simple play can be taught to a dragon with surprising ease simply by acting out a few games. They will pick up on rules quickly, just be sure to follow them. Don't try to introduce new rules mid-game. If your dragon is at the stage where they allow visitors, even complex games like chess and checkers can be learned surprisingly quickly by observing the actions of players and memorize them with ease. Checkers is also great for training fine motor control. Card games are tricky, but die-printed cards are a fairly common novelty item among airship crew that will make the practice a little more accessible. As of 1421, the Liaison Commander's dragon famously knows poker and is terrifyingly good at it.
If one has access to a large area, hide and seek is extremely stimulating. While difficult to teach, since convincing your dragon to close their eyes and wait is tricky at best, they will have great fun tracking your scent as the practice stimulates the hunting part of their nature. Do not expect to win a single game. If a friend has taught their dragon this game already, having your dragon watch them perform it is the best way to learn. If your dragon is somewhat sociable, Liaison riders will gladly teach your dragon a few games. All of them know hide and seek, as it is directly relevant to their job. Try to play in spaces with many mingled scents, such as academy grounds, extensive caves, or forests. It is also worth teaching them to track scents and people by presenting an item to them, both as enrichment and as a useful skill.
If you are interested in drawing or painting, your dragon will watch this process with rapt attention. Charcoals or wax pens and heavy paper are good to bring along, as they are cheap and versatile. Some dragons will attempt to learn to draw as well, with varying degrees of success. Encourage them to draw in sand or dirt with their claws or a branch, as they will find the size constraints of paper and pen challenging.
Other exercises, such as drilling hasty mount and dismount, commands and signals, and saddle manipulation are good practice, assuming both parties are in a suitable condition to perform them.
If all else fails, giving your dragon an extensive brushing will always be appreciated and reciprocated.
A topic often neglected in academic circles for being crude and perverse, your dragon's feelings towards you (and yours toward them) are entirely natural. You are, for most dragons, entirely filling the role of romantic partner for the rest of both of your lives, and their behavior will reflect that. Both of you have made a commitment towards each other that cannot be ignored. While about a quarter of dragon-rider pairs will maintain a perfectly healthy and functional asexual bond, flirting behaviors are a universal constant.
While dragons do not experience "heat" with the intensity that some animals do, they do become more active and "clingy" during the regular dragon mating season from late winter to mid spring. Whether they will act on it depends on the dragon and your relationship with them, but an increase in cuddling and flirting during late winter and spring is to be expected. Be aware that dragons have complete control over their reproductive parts, so if they are displaying them, they intend to use them, or are at least asking your permission. Other materials cover how to survive intimacy with your dragon in detail, and should be reviewed even if your dragon does not seem particularly interested in such things.
One of the most common and most often misunderstood behaviors is flaring. Flaring takes many forms, and is often confused with aggression. Flaring is when a dragon fans their cheek frills, which are brightly colored and patterned. In an aggressive situation, they will be snarling with their ears pinned back and eyes narrowed. Flaring is most often seen as a component of other behaviors, such as play, more in-depth flirting, grooming, and marking. They will widely present the frills, often they will "smile" by revealing their teeth without snarling. Their tail will usually be swaying, and their ears will be pricked forwards. It is often accompanied by siting tall and proud, or crouching low with their hips in the air. It is up to you to decide whether that particular position is play or seduction. It is very common to see in play, especially when they are about to pounce. Flaring is usually accompanied with humming, chirping, or trilling.
A common gesture of greeting and affection, this behavior can be compared to kissing someone on the cheek. The dragon will bump you on the cheek, shoulder, chest, or lower stomach with their nose, sometimes accompanied by a small lick. This is something you will see many times a day, especially when engaged in cuddling or when waking up in the morning. It is also common to see later in a relationship if there are visitors, as they will seek to reassure themselves of your attention. This gesture should be reciprocated by kissing their nose, pressing your cheek to their snout, or simply scratching the top of their snout. It is usually accompanied by a gentle hum or chirp. This action is one the rider will see performed on other dragons and even other dragon's riders if your dragon is comfortable with them and likes them enough.
Actual kissing ranges quite widely from a greeting to foreplay. It is initiated by pressing their snout firmly to your lips. Open your lips and they will push their tongue into your mouth. A greeting or simple reassurance of your affection will involve their tongue exploring your mouth for a moment before retreating. A more intimate kiss involves them pushing that tongue down your throat, which can be surprising and uncomfortable the first few times. They are not used to the small confines of the human mouth, and might accidentally do this the first few times, even if they mean to perform an ordinary kiss. While the action may seem oddly human, wild dragons perform this move regularly with mates. It is easy to initiate this behavior, and doing so is encouraged if they have done it at least once. Simply take their snout in your hands and press your lips to theirs. It is a good emotional relief for both you and the dragon.
An action that doesn't exactly have a human analogue, it is commonly performed after the dragon has "caught" you during play or while cuddling. The dragon will firmly press their nose into you in various spots, inhaling deeply and following with a satisfied huff. They will often move all over the body doing this, usually while physically embracing the rider in some way. It can be likened to a hug, but with the idea that the dragon is taking pleasure in enjoying something that is entirely and uniquely theirs. Common "snuffing" points include the lower stomach, the chest (more common if the rider is female), the thighs, the neck, and the crotch. While snuffing is not exactly something a rider can imitate, pushing your face into the neck at the collarbone or jaw seems to be close enough.
Do's and Don'ts of Cohabitation
There are many things a rider should do in the first few weeks and months to help them pass as smoothly as possible while actively promoting the developing the bond.
First, at the initial meeting, do not attempt to resist the dragon's choice or run from them. This will either be seen as betrayal or prey behavior, neither of which lead to good outcomes.
Second, submit to grooming and respond calmly. The dragon will nudge and prod you to gain access to different parts of you. Simply follow along. If you feel especially brave, once the dragon is done, gently take their snout and lick it a few times. This gives the impression that you are trying to reciprocate, which is endearing and sweet. Fair warning, this will usually trigger a cuddle session.
Third, resist the urge to fight back when being marked. The dragon is exposing their most sensitive area to you, and a wayward kick could cause real pain. As superficial as it may be, this is not conducive to a healthy relationship.
Fourth, likewise do not resist being carried in any form. The first days and weeks will see you picked up in their mouth, or in their forelegs. Relax and let them position you. This is for your own safety.
Fifth, do not try to obscure or cover wounds immediately. Allow your dragon to inspect and lick them. Not only is this cleansing, but it shows your dragon you trust them.
Sixth, whenever possible, be the one to initiate physical contact. This shows your dragon you are choosing them as much as they choose you. In essence, this is the basis of the entire bond itself. This action is beneficial to build trust quickly, but also will lead to them becoming less clingy and dominant much faster. If a stiff brush is available to you, brush behind their jaw frills, or along the underside of the jaw.
Finally, be patient. The situation in the first few months is emotionally and physically exhausting and strange. Your whole world is being flung upside down. Remember that the dragon is experiencing the exact same thing, and handling it the only way they know how.
The first two weeks will be rough. You will be battered, bloody, and bruised. It will get better. By the end of the month, your dragon will be taking you places. If you are lucky, you will get a saddle in that time, but don't worry if you aren't that far yet. By the end of the second month, your dragon will be returning autonomy to you bit by bit. You will be able to take alone time, and you will be able to see friends again. This is the tip of the drift, and it only gets better from there. Your dragon will become your closest and most trusted friend. Let them.
