I am lying in the doorway of a shop on Hay Street. It is the main shopping street in Perth, except it's past midnight and the place is deserted. Even though I'm wrapped in a sleeping bag, plus all the clothes in my backpack, I'm still shivering like mad. I'm bent over in a foetal position, as if assuming this posture might somehow trap and preserve the warmth in my body. It does not.
It dawns on me, in this utter state of misery, that this is not how normal people travel. You don't generally read, among the top ten things to do in Perth: Experience being homeless on Hay Street! Feel deep in your bones what it's like to be cold, destitute and hungry! But the thing is, I didn't come to the land down under to do normal touristy stuff. No, I came here to become an adult.
You see, at the age of twenty, I was a year away from being officially declared an adult by society. Yet I felt anything but one. I was just this scrawny, timid guy plagued with all sorts of anxieties and fears, not to mention a perpetual existential crisis I couldnât shake. Consequently, I felt this strong need to prove myself, to undergo a rite of passage that would launch me into the world. An initiation of sorts, where I could measure myself and come out the other end worthy. I wanted to be able to tell myself that I was a real adultâa real manâcapable of handling the real world and standing on my own two feet. I needed to know that I would survive.
So I came up with a plan. I bought a plane ticket to Perth and emailed a local bike shop to rent a mountain bicycle for a week. I was going to bike through the forest for seven days, subsisting on energy bars and filtered rainwater. It was going to be epic. On the morning of expedition day one, I show up at the bike shop all pumped up for my crazy Australian adventure. The shop attendant is this wiry guy sporting a trendy beard. He looks at me from head to toe, sizes me up, then shoots me a sceptical look. "I don't think this is a good idea," he says . I tell him, "I'm doing it anyway," and he puts his hands up and shrugs. "Fine, do what you want, but don't say I didn't warn you."
Half an hour later, I'm wheeling a mountain bike with big-ass tyres out of the shop and on my way to the start of the forest trail. All my stuff is loaded on it, and the bike is much heavier than I'd expectedâslower, too. Still, as I watch the pavement rolling away beneath me, I'm thrilled. I think to myself, this is it. I'm actually, actually doing this. I'm going to make it work!
And then I grind to an abrupt halt. In front of me, the pavement disappears and I see a busy junction. Uh-oh. To get to the start of the forest trail, I'd have to cycle on the road alongside traffic, which is a problem, because I can't cycle on roads. Back at home, I cycle on park connectors, which are these broad pavements with bold white and yellow lines and plenty of signs. It's all very safe. There are no cars whizzing beside you at eighty kilometres an hour, no buses that could mow you downâeasy-peasy. And so now, staring ahead at the busy junction, two words appear in my mind.
My epic expedition is over before it's even started. The adventure of a lifetime, put to an end not by a bear attack, or heat exhaustion, or anything epic whatsoever, but because of⌠traffic.
Yep, so much for becoming a real man.
I next proceed to do the most un-manly, un-adult thing. I back the bicycle into someone's garage, collapse into a heap on the floor, and burst into tears. For five or ten minutes, I have a pathetic little twenty-year-old man-child breakdown. Then, I wipe away my tears and begin the return journey of shame to the bike shop. The shop attendant's face says it all.
I could have punched him.
But then, as I step out of the shop, I catch myself, pull myself together. I give myself a pep talk. Look, so maybe things didn't exactly pan out the way they were supposed to. But that's how it is with travelling, amiright? You're young, you're adaptable. You can still make the best of a bad situation. Go with the flow. Be chill, be spontaneous. Have fun. Sure, the biking thing might have fallen through, but we can still go camping. That still counts, right?
Yes, I can do this. I can DO this.
Filled with new resolve, I make a plan. I scroll through Google Maps for the largest patch of green I can find near me, and Kings Park shows up. The city's botanical gardens. Cool. I head there right away. At the park, tourists amble casually around me while my eyes dart furtively around for a place to camp. I spot a pavilion below a green slope, and I settle on the carpet grass, waiting. Once it gets dark and everybody goes home, I'd go down to the pavilion, get into my sleeping bag, and weather the night. Achievement unlocked.
But then, the daylight fades and a chill seeps into the air. I begin to feel cold, scared, abandoned.
I can do this⌠I can do this⌠I can do this⌠I can't do this⌠I can't do this⌠I CAN'T DO THIS!
I chicken out. I return to the city and wander about the malls. When closing time rolls around, I end up loitering on the streets. A sense of desperation steals over on me, but still I refuse to check into proper accommodation. I don't want to admit defeat. I come across a homeless man lying in front of a shopfront, and realise what I need to do. I decide to draw inspiration from the pros.
So that's how I end up here, lying in the doorway of a shop on Hay Street, bent over in a foetal position in my sleeping bag. It's a brisk spring evening, but I feel like I'm surrounded by the Arctic cold. Well, I think to myself, at least this would probably make a funny story when I get home, ha-ha.
Except that I'm not laughing anymore. Nope, I'm crying, or I would have been crying if my tear ducts aren't immobilised by the cold. I'm lonely, I'm afraid, and I want to go home.
I think of the last time I was here in Perth. It was nine years ago, when I was eleven. Back then my family was with me. We went to the beach, the sun was setting, and I remember idiotically trying to chase my own shadow. We ate seafood at a restaurant, and on the car ride back to the hotel I squabbled with my sister over who got to bathe first when we got back. During the trip, we took lots of photos, went sightseeing at tourist traps and bought lame souvenirs. Basically, the stuff that families on holidays do.
Now, I'm twenty years old and my carefree childhood is long behind me. I'm an a not-yet-adult struggling to find my place in a world where I constantly feel like an outcast. I've got family and friends but none of them understand me. Nobody is able to help me or save me from myself. Though we inhabit the same world we're worlds apart, living our separate lives and fighting our own demons. Knowing this makes me feel unaccountably sad. Incomplete.
I suppose my trip to Perth did ultimately become a rite of passage, only not in the way I'd thought it would. Because being an adult isn't about being strong and prepared to face anything that might be thrown your way. Being an adult isn't about adequacy, but inadequacy. Carrying deep inside you that sense of being cold and miserable and alone in a vast, dark world, with nobody to turn to.