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A Banarasi saree is not just six yards of fabric. It is a canvas of history, patience, and pure artistry. While the heavy silk base gives the saree its structure, it is the Zari—the metallic thread woven into intricate motifs—that gives it a soul.

If you have ever marvelled at the shimmering gold or silver patterns on a Banarasi drape, you have witnessed the magic of Zari. Here is everything you need to know about this legendary craft.

👑 What Exactly is Zari?

Zari is an ornate thread traditionally made of fine gold or silver. Originating from the Persian word for gold (zar), the art of Zari weaving found its ultimate home in Varanasi (Banaras) during the Mughal era.

To create traditional Zari, a silk thread is wound tightly with a flattened strip of pure silver, which is then electroplated with pure gold. It is a meticulous process that transforms heavy metals into wearable, fluid thread.

🔍 The Three Types of Zari You Need to Know

Not all Zari is created equal. When shopping for or admiring a Banarasi saree, you will encounter three main varieties:

Real Zari (Pure Zari): The gold standard. Made with real silver threads plated with 24-karat gold. It is heavy, heirloom-quality, and turns slightly dark over decades (like antique silverware).

Tested Zari (Imitation Zari): The practical choice. Made with copper wire electroplated with silver and gold-coloured lacquer. It looks incredibly authentic but is much lighter on the wallet.

Metallic Zari (Synthetic Zari): The modern alternative. Made from polyester film metallised with aluminium. It is lightweight, highly affordable, and exceptionally shiny, though it lacks the classic drape of real metal.

🎨 Classic Zari Weaving Techniques

The way the Zari is integrated into the silk defines the saree's character:

Katiyan: The traditional method where the Zari is twisted with silk to create a subtle, muted metallic sheen.

Fekuan (Cutwork): The Zari floats across the back of the fabric where there are no motifs, and the loose threads are later cut away by hand.

Kadwa: The most luxurious technique. Each Zari motif is woven individually into the fabric, like embroidery on a loom. There are no loose threads on the back.

💡 How to Spot Real Zari

If you are investing in an heirloom piece, use these quick checks to ensure you are getting genuine silver/gold Zari:

The Scratch Test: Gently scratch the Zari thread. If it reveals a red/brown copper core underneath, it is tested Zari. Real Zari will reveal a bright white silver core.

The Weight: Real Zari is made of actual metal. A pure Zari Banarasi saree will feel significantly heavier than a synthetic one.

The Reverse Side: Look at the back of the saree. Real Zari looks almost as clean and beautifully woven on the inside as it does on the outside.

⏳ Caring for Your Zari Heirloom

Real Zari tarnishes when exposed to moisture and air. Protect your investment with these rules:

Never use plastic covers; wrap the saree in a breathable muslin or cotton cloth.

Never spray perfume directly onto the Zari, as the chemicals will oxidize the metal.

Refold the saree every few months to prevent the metal threads from breaking along the creases.

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Magnificent Mysore Silk Sarees

My earliest memory of a sari goes back to the good old school days when I wore my first sari for the school farewell. It was from my mother’s closet and was a vibrant yet subtle Mysore silk sari. A few years later that I came to know the very sari that I wore was my mother’s favourite and was passed on to her from my grandmother. Such is the beauty, opulence, sheen, and texture of this very fine textile that it was as good as new even after so many years. Perhaps this makes it an eternal choice for all at weddings and traditional festivities across the country.

Although the Mysore Silk sari gained much popularity in 1912 AD, its origins can be traced back to 1785 AD. The first silk cocoons were imported from China to Mysore by the then ruler of Mysore, Tipu Sultan. Later, in 1912 Maharaja Krishna Raj Wadiyar IV established the first silk factory in Mysore to meet the clothing needs of the royal women of the Palace. After Independence, the Mysore Silk Weaving Factory, the country’s oldest silk manufacturing unit was owned by the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation (KSIC), a government enterprise and it exclusively manufactured Mysore silk.

Over the years, Mysore silk became extremely popular and to meet the increasing demand, large-scale imitation of the product started. Markets were flooded with cheap and inferior quality silk being sold as authentic Mysore silk. This led to a great disappointment among the patrons of Mysore Silk and the beautiful craft suffered a major recession. In order to check the trade of fake silk and ensure 100% authentic Mysore silk, KSIC got the GI or the Geographical Indication certificate for it in 2005. With it, the KSIC patented the brand with the privilege of being the sole proprietor of Mysore Silk in India. Mysore silk sari is the only saris in the world to have a code number and a hologram embroidered on it, thereby ensuring an authentic handicraft.

Known for their unique sheen and regal look, the Mysore Silk Saris are made with pure silk and gold/silver Zari. These 100% pure silk saris are mostly made in a plain single colour base contrasted beautifully with a narrow strip of borders having an intricate gold zari work at both ends and an elaborate palla. The pure zari work on the Mysore Silk is so strong that it won’t get discoloured even after repeated wear and has a long shelf life lasting for decades. Today, motifs like paisleys and floral borders woven on fabrics like crepe silk and georgette can be seen as a variation to the traditional Mysore silk to make them more appealing and fashionable for the younger generation.

I have always felt that a sari is perhaps the only garment that never goes out of style and any pattern or design always remains in vogue. And Mysore silk sari is one among the many indigenous art forms of our country which has stood the test of time and should be well preserved to be passed on from one generation to the next. However, taking care of this luxurious fabric is not a herculean task.

The best way to keep and maintain a Mysore silk sari as good as new is by getting it dry cleaned only. It should never be kept in a plastic bag. The plastic covers often lock the moisture inside and can spoil the vibrant zari. The sari should be kept well wrapped in a clean and soft cloth. If the sari needs to be washed at home, harsh detergents should be strictly avoided. Soap nuts / Shikakai boiled in water produces a soft lather, which is ideal for washing the silk fabrics.

The fabric should be taken to a good dry cleaner for having steam-ironing done. In case it should be done at home, the sari should never be directly in contact with a hot iron. A white linen cloth or a piece of paper on top of the sari should be used while ironing. Naphthalene balls should be strictly avoided. The saris should be exposed to sunlight once in a while to protect the zari from some possible moisture contact. Also, the folds of the saris should be changed frequently so as to avoid it from getting torn at the folds.

All said and done, a delicate and appealing Mysore silk sari because of its matchless weave and texture still stands a class apart and remains one of the most preferred fabrics by all.

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