#walter speller

Walter Speller, Italian Wine Correspondent for Jancis Robinson MW’s website, led an exceptional Masterclass at AWC yesterday evening, which saw guests enjoy a number of outstanding vintages from Masseto, Ornellaia, Solaia and Sassicaia.

Our in-house chef created some stupendous, Italian-inspired canapés specifically for the event. These included prosciutto wrapped prawns, shaved fennel and parmesan wrapped in bresaola, and butternut squash arancini, which were served to guests along with Champagne to start off the evening.

For the main event, each of the below wines were openly displayed, except for the final wine which was served blind.

Wine 1: 2010 Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia, Le Volte

Wine 2: 2010 Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia, Le Serre Nuove

Wine 3: 2007 Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia, Ornellaia

Wine 4: 2003 Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia, Masseto

Wine 5: 2009 Antinori, Solaia

Wine 6: 2010 Tenuta San Guido, Guidalberto

Wine 7: 2007 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia

Wine 8: 2000 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia

Wine 9: Tasted blind

Walter began by explaining to everyone the term ‘Super Tuscan’ and the fact that it refers to wines that were originally produced outside of Italian wine production law. This was because international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as French oak, tended to be used and this meant that they could not be recognised by the EU. Producers coined the term ‘Super Tuscan’ to distinguish their wines from the more traditionally-styled, relatively inexpensive and generally lower-quality wines that Tuscany was known for producing at that time. Today, the majority of Super Tuscans use the legal appellation of IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), which allows for more flexibility than the likes of Chianti and other Tuscan DOCs.

As guests tasted through the various vintages of Ornellaia, Walter described how a fruit selection method pioneered within French cellars is applied when producing these wines as well. In particular, the grapes are individually inspected by hand and any that look at all imperfect are carefully removed.

When transitioning to the fourth wine, guests learned how Masseto’s vineyard is split into three parts and that it is the clay section of the vineyard that provides the ideal soil for producing this particular, stand-out wine. Walter rightly described it as being ‘one of the best examples of a Merlot wine anywhere,’ with which most of the assembled agreed whole-heartedly.

Discussion between the guests and Walter grew throughout the evening, particularly concerning matters of the effect that global warming has had on the production of wines in Tuscany and the differences between the various vintages of each wine in the line-up, as, for example, guests preferred the 2007 over the 2000 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia.

Following the eight wines, guests reached wine nine, which was tasted blind. To add a competitive element guests were informed that whichever person correctly guessed the vintage and type of wine, they would win a complimentary bottle of 2000 Sassicaia – an impressive prize indeed! Gradually the vintages were whittled down until one lucky attendee correctly guessed the wine as a 1987 Sassicaia, which meant that they went home with a superb bottle to add to their collection.

Bowls of spring vegetable risotto and duck, black olive and tomato ragu were served to guests as they revisited their favourite wines of the evening and discussed the wines on offer. By popular vote it was revealed that the wine of the night was the 2007 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, followed closely by the 2003 Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia Masseto.