Episode 6: A Warm Dinner
14,000 km Back Home: A Womanâs Silk Road Journey By Min Hsieh
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Part 1: The Plan Chapter 2: Toward the Alps "Let go of the extras you want, and youâll find you can carry everything you need."
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A Warm Dinner â Austria, DAY 3
After crossing the border marker, the road conditions changed noticeably.
Austria's road signs clearly indicated elevation levels and distances along the mountain route. I followed the bicycle signs, weaving through forests and gravel paths, with patches of unmelted snow piled up on both sides. The increasingly steep incline forced me to push my bike forward slowly.
It was only my second full day on the road, yet I already felt completely exhausted. Before my departure, Thomas had warned me about the dangers of encountering heavy snow in the Alps. I had reassured him that if I found myself in an unsafe situation, I would take a train to bypass the snowy regionsâI simply couldn't imagine cycling through deep snow while carrying all my gear.
But now, I hadn't even reached the altitude Thomas was concerned about, and I was already struggling. At this sluggish pace, I began to worry that I wouldn't make it to Schwaz before nightfall.
The day before I set out, I had found a Couchsurfing host in Schwaz who was willing to take me in, giving me the chance to sleep indoors, in warmth. Maybe I'd even get to take a hot shower.
A hot shower!
The thought filled my mind, enveloping me in a comforting warmth, as if it could wash away the dirt and cold. At that moment, it felt like an unattainable luxuryâone that urged me to keep pushing forward.
By the time I reached Achenkirch, it was already 3:30 in the afternoon. The sky had taken on a cold, grayish hue, casting long shadows over the darkening road ahead, which disappeared into the dense forest.
This was exactly the time of day when I had turned back on my first attempt. That memory clung to me like a curse, filling me with doubt and making my goal for the night feel increasingly out of reach.
Achenkirch was a remote town. I spotted an elderly man about to enter the front yard of a house, built in the traditional Bavarian countryside style. Uneasy, I stopped my bike and, in broken German, asked, âExcuse me, how far is Schwaz? Can I make it before dark?â
It probably sounded ridiculous to ask such a question while standing next to a loaded bicycle, but my rationality was fading as quickly as the sunlight.
The old man looked me and my bike over before saying, âIt's about thirty kilometers from here, but the sun is setting fast. It'll be too dangerous to keep going.â Then, after a pause, he added, âYou can try to ride faster to get there in time, or⌠you can stay here for the night and leave in the morning.â
âWhat? Stay here?â
I was stunned. My broken German had not only allowed me to communicate, but had also earned me an invitation to sleep indoors!
My mind racedâthis meant I could escape the impending darkness and freezing night. I might even get that hot shower.
I turned to the Bavarian house, its warm lights glowing through the windows, then glanced back at the old man, assessing his demeanor. He didn't seem like a bad person, nor did he pose any obvious threat. I decided to take the riskâescaping the fear of the night was my priority.
âThat would be super. Thank you so much!â I skipped the formalities and accepted his offer immediately, pushing my bike as I followed him toward the house.
The property had two large grassy fields, separated by a paved path that stretched from the house to a garage big enough for two cars. Inside, various farming tools were neatly stored.
As I parked my bike in the garage, I scanned my surroundings. There were six other bicycles, including three small ones for children. The old man already seemed trustworthy, but seeing childen around made me feel even safer.
We continued along the path to the entrance of the Bavarian house. âMy wife and I live in the front half of the house,â he explained, âwhile my son, daughter-in-law, and grandchildren live in the back.â
I followed him inside, carrying two heavy saddlebags, a backpack, and my quick-release bag. The old man insisted on carrying my tent, wanting to help with more of my gear, but I refused to let an elderly man do the heavy lifting.
The house was a wooden structure with rustic charm. The entrance opened to a hallwayâon the right, a passage led to the kitchen and living room, while a wooden staircase on the left ascended to the upper floors.
âWe live here,â he said, gesturing toward the second floor. Then he continued up another flight of stairs.
The third floor was an attic with two roomsâone seemingly abandoned, the other packed with furniture, blankets, and two beds.
âYou can stay in this room. Choose either bed,â he offered. Then, pointing to a small bathroom at the top of the stairs, he added, âYou can shower here.â With that, he headed downstairs.
I dropped my gear by the bed, overwhelmed with relief, as if flower petals were floating in the air.
A warm indoor space. A hot shower. This felt like paradise.
I scanned the room, eager to shower and dive into bed. But I decided it would be impolite to disappear right away, so I changed clothes and went downstairs to greet the family.
The old man's son came over from the other side of the house and spoke to me in German, assuming I wouldn't understand his father's Austrian dialect. I politely thanked him for their hospitality, though I honestly couldn't tell the difference between their accents. Using a mix of German and guesswork, I managed to keep the conversation going. Whether we were actually understanding each other, I wasn't entirely sure.
The old man led me to the dining table, setting out an assortment of cheese, bread, jams, and fresh vegetables.
For the past two days, I had survived on energy bars and instant noodles. The sight of fresh food was almost overwhelming.
Not wanting to appear rude, I hesitated at first, politely declining while secretly hoping they'd insist. Thankfully, the old man ignored my formalities and simply placed utensils in front of me, telling me to eat.
Just as I picked up a piece of bread, an elderly woman stormed into the room, muttering angrily under her breath. The old man quickly pulled her aside, leading her out of the dining area.
A moment later, he returnedâthis time with the old woman following behind him. She walked straight to the table, her voice sharp, âWe canât justâŚâ
Before she could finish, the son intervened, guiding her away again.
The air grew heavy with tension.
I thought about the warm bed upstairs and the hot shower that awaited me. Caught between gratitude and discomfort, I stood up and said to the old man, âIf this is too much trouble, I can leave. I'm really sorry.â
âDonât mind her, she has a mental problem!â The old man tapped his head with a finger. âBroken!â Then he gestured toward the food. âEat. Eat.â
How was I supposed to eat now?
The old woman returned, calmer this time. She sat across from me, studying me closely.
âYou're leaving tomorrow?â she asked.
âYes, first thing in the morning. But if this is a problem, I can go now,â I replied.
âDon't listen to her. Stay. Eat!â the old man insisted.
The old woman said nothing more. Instead, she got up, fetched a pickled cucumber from the fridge, and placed it on the table. She gestured for me to eat.
I looked at her, then at the old man. Slowly, I decided to finish the food on the table while the two elderly people watched me.
Even in such an awkward situation, the food tasted incredible.
It was a simple dinner, yet it felt like pure happiness.
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Closing Remarks
⨠Your Turn: Kindness can take many formsâsometimes freely given, other times layered with complexities. Have you ever received generosity that left you unsure how to respond? Share your thoughts belowâIâd love to hear!
đ Time Frame: This story chronicles my journey across two continents between November 2013 and October 2014. Published independently in Taiwan in 2021, it is now shared as an English serialized novel through AI translation, connecting with friends worldwide to share this journey of personal growth.
đ Next Episode: "The Weight of Loneliness"















