#tokyo eats

“Taiwan-Style” Mazesoba at Menya Haruka, Akihabara. Soup-less noodles with Bonito powder, garlic, spicy miso minced pork, raw egg, and TONS of green onion. There were a lot of Taiwanese tourists who seemed a little puzzled at the dish, which I assume comes from the “Taiwan-style” part - I imagine these tourists are attracted to the shop kind of like feeling comfortable running into McD’s or Starbucks when overwhelmed by sightseeing and ‘foreign shit’. It was obvious they were met with something very authentically Japanese. The ‘Taiwanese’ part seems to point to the spicy minced pork, but the soupless “Mazesoba” is actually a dish local to Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture. All of the toppings are to be mixed up all together into a delicious mess. The restaurant had Shichimi (“Seven-spice”, a sprinkle that is a blend of red chili powder with various aromatics and spices) as well as vinegar, which you should add to change the flavor profile drastically. (Any proud restaurant in the ramen business would have vinegar on deck, which I highly recommend adding halfway through eating for piquancy and an interactive eating experience.)

Just wanted to post a quick update here regarding some restaurant staff changes coming out of Tokyo...

Unfortunately, one of my favorite izakaya, Peshi in Nihonbashi, has closed its doors.

https://www.eataku.com/post/158355062579/peshi-tokyo

The staff has fortunately landed on their feet and found other gigs, which I will be posting about when I have more information.

Also, one of Tokyo’s best late night spots, Kadoya, has gone through some adjustments of their own, with both Taka and Tacchan having left to embark on exciting new adventures.

https://www.eataku.com/post/157344408276/kadoya-nishi-azabu-tokyo

The Nishi-Azabu izakaya remains open with a new staff, and a modified menu, but I have not been yet. So much of my original review of and praise for Kadoya came from the warmth of the staff, so I can’t continue to recommend them as one of Tokyo’s best as I have not eaten and drank there yet. The owner, Moriyama-san, is a wonderfully talented chef and manager, and I’m sure he’s got a great new crew cooking and serving there, so I hope to try them again on my next trip.

Last month, I got a tip from my food writer friend Yui that one of the best new places to indulge in affordable sushi in Tokyo was in the basement of the recently opened Tokyu Plaza in Ginza, so I went to check it out for myself late one afternoon...

I was fully expecting the new Sushi Hanamaru to be a kaiten (conveyor belt) shop, but I was pleasantly surprised to find they’re actually a tachigui (stand and eat) establishment!

At this small eight-person storefront, two sushi chefs run the counter up front, while a third chef and an assistant/cashier work the prep kitchen in the back, making sure there’s a steady supply of fresh fish on hand at all times...

Tachigui restaurants are quite popular in Japan, especially in Tokyo, where folks pop in for a quick bite at any time of day before getting back to their busy lives. The whole concept of tachigui is one that’s meant to keep prices lower for diners as no chairs make for faster turnaround times which in turn creates higher customer volume. (This is also what makes ramen cheaper in Japan than say, New York, where people sit and make the noodles a meal.)

The other aspect of tachigui that helps keep prices down is a limited menu, so ingredient costs (and waste) are controlled, and the kitchen can quickly cook a shorter list of dishes with maximum efficiency...

While Hamamaru does indeed keep their prices low, which each piece of fresh, handmade sushi starting at 100 yen, about $1.00 US, and going up to only 330 yen, their menu is anything but limited...

Hanamaru offers more seafood selections on their print menu, with an additional astonishing array of daily and seasonal specials, than I’ve seen at most other sushi restaurants anywhere in Japan...

It turns out that they’re able to accomplish this by staying true, and close, to their roots. You see, Hanamaru is unlike most other Tokyo sushi shops in that they do not get their seafood from Tsukji, Tokyo’s largest market; they’re actually a small Hokkaido-based chain, so they use their local suppliers on Japan’s northernmost island to buy all their fish, where prices are notably lower, and they get discounts buying in bulk. The product is then all shipped to Tokyo daily...

When we dropped by to check them out around 3pm, there were only three other people at the counter, so even though we’d already had a small lunch, the stomach always has room for sushi! Here’s a look at what we enjoyed...

Kanpachi and konbujime (seaweed cured) hirame...

Grilled tarako cod roe...

Shima aji and hakaku, a seasonal whitefish...

Fresh tsubugai whelk...

Aji, or horse mackerel, one of my favorite fish...

Grilled salmon belly and buri toro...

Fresh scallop...

The scallop “himo” or tendon...

And a second piece of aji...

My wife had a similar selection, and in total, this “snack” ran us 3000 yen, or about $30.00 US! See what I mean about tachigui being cost effective?

I was informed that lines here can get up to 50 people deep at the peak lunch hours, between noon-2pm, and during post work rush, between 6-8pm, so best to avoid those periods. Although, even with that many people, the wait times tend not to be too bad, they say. Also, please be advised that there are no English menus available here, so please go with a Japanese speaker if possible. Or know what you want ahead of time. Hanamaru has all the usual sushi suspects on their menu, from akami to ebi to uni, but the seasonal specials on their boards should definitely be explored!

And be sure not to dilly dally at the counter, for as polite as Japanese people are, you will get dirty looks if you keep from them from their sushi for too long!

HANAMARU SUSHI

Tokyu Plaza B2F

5-2-1 Ginza

Chuo-ku, Tokyo

104-0061

81-3-6274-6771

The Street Food Bucket List 🌮🔥

honestly, if your travel plans don't revolve entirely around finding the best local eats, what are you even doing? it’s giving major "culinary adventurer" energy. there is something so visceral and aesthetic about a perfectly assembled street taco or a steaming local delicacy served right on the sidewalk. it’s not just a meal; it’s a whole vibe—the smells, the colors, and that first bite that makes the entire trip worth it. whether you're wandering through a bustling night market or stumbling upon a hidden gem down a side street, these are the moments that truly stick with you. let’s normalize traveling with our tastebuds first. 🌮🥢✈️

The Sweetest Find in Asakusa 🍠✨

honestly, if you haven’t had a roasted sweet potato in japan, are you even traveling? it’s giving major "street food main character" energy. found this absolute gem in asakusa and let me tell you—it’s the cozy, caramelized hug your soul didn't know it needed. the way the skin is perfectly charred and the inside is basically molten gold? unmatched. it’s a total vibe to just wander through the historic streets of tokyo with this in hand. if you’re planning your tokyo itinerary, put this at the top of the list. your tastebuds will literally never be the same. 🇯🇵🥢🔥

The one place you can catch your dinner and have it prepared as you wish!

Source: http://twitter.com/fodorstravel/status/902340043477536768

These sweet cakes sprang into the market in 1991 and have become the ultimate gift to bring home. #TokyoBanana https://t.co/w8XJTaQlho