During 1993-1995, I had the incredible opportunity to be a research student at the University of Tokyo (Todai) as a recipient of the Japanese Ministry of Education Scholarship (Monbusho, renamed Monbugakusho in 2001).
However, my time at Todai wasn't limited to just one campus. I found myself constantly moving between two campuses, which presented its own set of challenges. My research laboratory in comparative literature and culture was located in the Todai Komaba campus.
But every morning, I had to navigate my way to the Todai Hongo campus for my classes in Japanese language, culture, and affairs. Despite the logistical hurdles, I couldn't help but appreciate the historical significance of the Hongo Campus.
The ground Todai students walked on was once owned by influential domains such as the Kaga Domain, the Toyama Domain and the Daishoji Domain. Even the Yayoi and Asano Sections were held by the esteemed Mito Domain. This realization deepened my appreciation of the historical context in which Todai exists.
During the Edo period in Japan (1603-1868), the Tokugawa shogunate ruled with authority, yet numerous domains enjoyed a certain level of regional autonomy. It is truly remarkable that even today, in the district of Hongo, we can come across various historical landmarks and buildings that were once owned by these domains. These structures serve as windows to the past, allowing us to empathetically connect with the rich history and culture that shaped areas surrounding Todai.
The Akamon, also known as the Red Gate, served as the residence gate for the Kaga Domain. Another remarkable spot is the Sanshiro Pond, officially known as Ikutoku-en Shinji-ike. These sites carry a sense of grandeur and offer a glimpse into the past.
Sadly, the Hongo Section endured a devastating blow when the Great Kanto Earthquake struck on September 1, 1923. The earthquake razed most of the Meiji-era buildings that once stood proudly on this campus. However, after this tragedy, plans were swiftly set in motion to rebuild and restore the campus.
Thanks to the determined efforts of Todai Structural Engineering and Architecture Professor Yoshikazu Uchida, the 14th president of the University (1943-1945), Todai Hongo campus gradually regained its former glory. By the mid-1940s, much of the campus had been reconstructed, reflecting Uchida's vision and leadership. Today, we can still admire Uchida’s Yasuda Auditorium (Todai Hongo’s ichi-go-kan) and the other buildings constructed in the distinctive "Uchida Gothic" architectural style.
What makes the resilience of the Hongo Section even more remarkable is that it suffered minimal damage during World War II. This fortunate circumstance means that today's buildings have remained largely intact, preserving their historical charm and allowing us to connect with the past.
The blend of academic excellence, historical significance, and cultural immersion created quite an experience. My Todai years were a time of growth, learning, and exploration. I will forever be grateful.