(Studio of) Hans Holbein the younger (c.1497–1543) • Portrait of Henry VIII • c. 1540 • Collection of Walker Art Gallery, National Museums of Liverpool
Ah, the codpiece! Much studied, written about, and speculated upon. In reading various articles online, I discovered an entire book devoted to its history and significance – “Thrust: A Spasmodic Pictorial History of the Codpiece in Art,” by Michael Glover.
Above we have Henry VIII, showing off the bastion of his virility and strength – the bulk of his manhood. It apparently also doubled as a pincushion, as women would poke pins into the ornament as a means of fertility enhancement. Speaking of enhancement, the wearer often greatly exagerated the size of his member with padding and support to create the illusion of perpetual erectness.
"We use dress to construct an outward image of our perceived inner selves. The items we choose to adorn ourselves with are loaded with complex cultural messages."
– Victoria Bartells, University of Cambridge
Though none of Henry the VIII's codpieces remain, his suit of armor from 1540 is displayed at the Tower of London.
The Renaissance fashion trend of the codpiece accompanied the change in men's doublets from narrow and long to ridiculously short and wider, creating a gap from which the man's penis might protrude, creating an embarrassment. Although initially developed to ensure modesty, the codpiece developed into a fashion statement, often being an integral part of a gentleman's attire. As such, it was often made from fine, matching or complementary colors and fabrics to the overall outfit. Among the royal and higher classes, the codpiece was often made from sumptuous fabrics and richly adorned with beading and embroidery.
Emperor Charles V with a Dog • Titian • 1533
From Glover's book, discussing the painting above, Emperor Charles V with a Dog, he probes the hound’s “questing muzzle,” which veers “sniffingly-close” to its master’s codpiece in what can only be “an allusion to the emperor’s virility.” Uhh...I wasn't going to mention it but it was too good to leave out.
As syphilis raged through Europe starting in the late 1400s, the codpiece took on the functional role of a receptical to hold ointments, oils, and a plethora of herbs to "cure" the affliction. Cultural anthropologist Grace Q. Vicary states that this Renaisance version of today's P.P.E., was essentially the reason for the codpiece. She argues that it was German mercenaries who developed the contraption, as they were the first to be afflicted with syphilis and responsible for its spread.
By the 1590s, the codpiece fell out of favor with the fashionable. Whether it intended to be fashionable or medicinal, the codpiece enjoyed a brief fashion moment but assured its place in history so we could joke about it to perpetuaty.
References:
• fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu
• A Brief History of the Codpiece, the Personal Protection for Renaissance Equipment by Dan Piepenbring (newyorker.com)
• A little article on the history of the codpiece (lucyworsley.com)
• Cambridge University
• The Medievalist
• Messy-Nessy Chick
