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Patterns of Fashion 5: The Content, Cut, Construction, and Context of Bodies, Stays, Hoops, and Rumps c. 1595-1795
All the detail shots in this book are fantastic. And some of the garments included? The silver tissue gown? The pair of bodies from the Elizabeth I effigy? Ugh, my fashion history nerd heart... 🖤
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I think I want to post more of my (historical) costuming on this platform, to have a bit more original content of my own and keep track of my process.
So here is the next big thing I'm working on: a complete 1780's outfit to go to an 18th century soirée in October.
First step: make new stays (I only have one pair and it's not up to my standards anymore, so I need to make a new pair). This is the first mock up I made from a pattern drafted according tot Patterns of Fashion 5 and a tremendously helpful YouTube tutorial by Michelle Fitzgerald: Arc-drafted 18th century stays patterning class - YouTube (it's a very long video, but if you just follow along while drafting to your own measurements, it's great!)
It fits surprisingly well. Seriously. It only needs a couple of pretty minor adjustments. The best part: no lower back pain. This must be the first time in my stays and corsetry making journey, that I managed to omit this annoying fit issue.
So next, I'll make some adjustments, and on to mock up no. 2 (and hopefully the final mock up)
Just shoulder straps and some binding left to do for my stays and I’m pretty darn happy with them! I should be making a shift before starting on the combinations, because this that I am wearing is 1. Victorian and 2. very simply drafted and doesn’t fit the best.
Please forgive the blurry webcam photos because my phone has sadly passed away a month ago and also the textbooks on the ladder behind me. I have no excuse for that except for that I am very lazy and school is very hard
Finally, finally starting on my stays! The cardboard and poster board mockups I made for my #augustastays didn't have enough flex, so I made these from scrap fabric, and I think they look good enough to go ahead with the actual fabric! #sewing #stays #staymaking #scrooppatterns #18thcenturyfashion #18thcentury #1700s (at San Diego, California) https://www.instagram.com/p/CArfzOpD-8f/?igshid=1hxuh5rfkhi5t
Well that took forever, but all the eyelets on my #augustastays are done now! I machine-sewed the boning channels because that path leads to madness when sewing through canvas and silk, but from how the mock-up fought me when I assembled it, if I'm seaming the panels together with the boning in, it'll have to be by hand so they don't stab me in the face! 😄 #sewing #handsewing #scrooppatterns #virgilsfinegoods #stays #staymaking #18thcenturyfashion #1700s #silk #silkdupioni #eyelets #18thcentury (at San Diego, California) https://www.instagram.com/p/CA6oUxlD7ps/?igshid=50pkdvmsmbf4
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Okay, I remeasured myself and with a larger magical number I now have a pair of stays that actually closes. With the hip gussets cut to my size it actually looks like something that might shape up to be a functioning pair of stays. I'll report back when it's all sewn up!
I definitely did something wrong here. The pattern is supposed to reach center back and center front, but even with a substantial lacing gap in the back I can barely get it to close. And that's with the adjustments to the gussets I already expected...
The interesting thing is that the armhole is the correct shape and size and the waist is where it is supposed to be. So the shape is promising, but I've either messed up the measuring and math or it is intended to have a large lacing gap in front and back.
I'll give it one more try with a slightly larger pattern, but I think my circular method is more foolproof.
A few months ago I drafted a pair of short stays for @somuchbetterthanthat. She's finally gotten them, so now I can share the process!
