#panniers

Patterns of Fashion 5: The Content, Cut, Construction, and Context of Bodies, Stays, Hoops, and Rumps c. 1595-1795

Finished painting my first set of matryoshka! The layers of an 18th-century lady's clothing. From inside out:

1. Shift, bare feet, hair down

2. (See last photo) Hair up, stays, clocked stockings, pockets

3. Hair powdered, panniers

4. Makeup (including mouches!), lace cap, stomacher, fichu, gown petticoat, shoes

5. Gown a la polonaise, neck ribbon, and a vastly fetching hat lol Oh and a walking stick

Full text label from the exhibition:

“Afternoon dress

Designed by Sadie Nemser (1886-1966) and Joseph Nemser (1886-1940) for Nemser Originals, active 1910s-1930s

American, 1922-1924

Silk crepe, embroidered with silk chenille yarns

Collection of the Mint Museum, Charlotte, NC. Gift of the Mint Museum Auxiliary, donated by Lucille D. Withers Ferrell. 1983.75.285

In the early 20th century, corsets became a thing of the past and dresses were becoming increasingly straight and simple, exemplified by the modern "Flapper" look of the mid-1920s. Yet, a markedly nostalgic style of dress emerged just before then. Known in France as a "robe de style" and in England as a "picture dress," this romantic throwback drew heavily on 18th century hooped petticoats and panniers with its artificially horizontal silhouette. This yellow silk crepe dress is an excellent example of this type of dress which was popular for afternoon gatherings and garden parties in the early 1920s. Its simple sleeveless bodice extends into the full skirt propped out on each hip by the modern version of panniers.” On loan from The Mint Museum