#serger

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NO, MUST SEW. MUST MAKE MORE JEANS.

Have I finished even ONE pair? No. No I have not. HOWEVER, I have learned so much that the process is so smooooooth. I can cut out a whole pair and have the back legs fully flat-felled and pockets attached in a day. I just want to make MORE and MORE.

Look! AT! HIMMM!!!

this pattern is labeled 'sith frock coat' and i made it in about two weeks of incredibly late nights when i lived in new mexico that became very much like a fever dream. it was very ambitious for my skill level at the time--i think it was the first time i invested in nice fabric for my own clothes--and for the most part it came out very well. this pictures are a few years old but it still fits me decently well, so i may go back later and fix those things that didn't go well the first time

i biked as my main method of transportation at the time, and this was mainly made with that in mind. nm is a desert but it DOES rain, usually all at once, and i still had to be at work across town. also santa fe is up a mountain so it does get brisk, which is why i chose to use a wool herringbone (brisk yes, winter no. i lived there for 5 years and called the nov-feb months fall++ the whole time). this is why the back is higher than the front--i needed to keep my thighs dry--and the hood is large enough to fit over a bike helmet

it was made with a removable linen lining (not pictured) which turned out less well it terms of fit (tight in the shoulder) and also didnt quite do what i wanted, lining-wise. the slit my hands are resting in was made to access the pockets in the lining and are not actually pockets now--i'd like to add those

the idea of a fold back front skirt was better in theory than practice. i'd like to go in and fix it to be, well, fixed though i'll probably keep the snap tape down the front. or i may replace the snaps which are currently holding the fold back skirt with something more sturdy, like a zipper

overall it does great. like i said the hood fits over a bike helmet or any warm winter garment you could name and the wool herringbone, though not waterproof or treated i any way, does shed water and kept me 100% warm and 98% dry while i learned i was too disabled to hitchhike across iceland (thank fuck for public transit i'm jealous of europeans every day). i have great shoulder movement and even though it takes a moment to get it settled over other clothes, once on it's very comfortable. the black lining is a plainweave linen; the purple lining, inner tulle, and ribbons are synthetic but they don't typically touch my skin when i'm wearing this. where i am now, this is a great fall or spring jacket without the lining

The serger that Viking calls the Amber 100, which was also the H Class 200 and H Class 250, is a serger model that gets traded and shared between brands a lot.

If your serger has the french door threading (two doors in front that make threading the lower looper guide easy), and possibly the recessed cutter, it's probably this serger regardless of brand. (Pretty much all recessed cutters are this serger, but not all of these sergers have the recessed cutter).

I have taught classes on this machine for over a year. I have been receiving training on servicing this machine. I know how to thread it, but I've watched two people thread this incorrectly and then just say that it doesn't make a good stitch.

SO.

PSA.

The thread guide that looks like an elephant? The thread goes IN FRONT of that machine. Many manuals specify to make sure you put the thread in front of the elephant. PUT THE THREAD IN FRONT OF THE ELEPHANT. Do not put the thread BEHIND The elephant. IN FRONT. IN FRONT.

Your serger probably runs quietly and makes a lovely stitch and you're just fucking threading it wrong.

PebcaSerger.

Here's where it's located on the threading path. Thread in front of the elephant.

Machines that i know for sure have the elephant: Husqvarna Viking H-Class 200, Husqvarna Viking H-Class 250, Husqvarna Viking Amber 100, Babylock Vibrant.

Machines that I suspect have the elephant: This serger labeled Buxel from walmart.com, many more.

If your serger has the elephant-shaped guide that the thread goes in front of so please put it in front of it please let me know the make and model, and I'll add them to this list so that hopefully people who have these sergers can find this post in a google result.

DIY T-Shirt From Old Socks

Dealing with stretchy knit fabric can be intimidating when you are only familiar with sewing non-stretchy woven fabric. This sewing tutorial is super easy and fool-proof due to exposed seams.

So, don’t be afraid and have fun making lettuce ruffle helming along the seams and hemline. Experience the joy as you design your own t-shirt made from socks!

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